BIKE CAPE BRETON
NOVA SCOTIA

July 23-30, 2000






July 23, 2000 Sunday Bike Port Hastings to Whycocomagh

It rained lightly during the night. Got up at 6:24 and shaved. Moved car to pool behind the motel. Drank some orange juice I brought with me from home. Went to breakfast of 2 eggs, bacon, fries, toast and milk for C$8.75 ($6.08) at the motel. Took luggage to the truck about 8:30 and was assigned #12. Biked out at 8:45 with Pete Flaton. Stopped at a gas station and bought a sandwich for C$3.44 ($2.39). Biked through Port Hawkesbury on NS-105 and turned left up the hill on NS-4. Crossed the bridge by Cleveland and turned left and immediately stayed right on County Line Road at 11.3 miles. Merged left at West Bay. Rode along the shore of the Bras d'Or (Arm of Gold) inland sea. It is very beautiful with many islands. It was overcast then turned into periods of sun and shade. Stopped at the Cape Breton Smokehouse at about 31 miles for lunch of chicken vegetable soup, egg and vegetable sandwich, ice cream with strawberries and a ginger ale for C$13.50 ($9.38). We stopped with Gerry Jongejan from Newfoundland and Holland aged 73. We ate outside on a deck overlooking the lake with a 2 masted sailboat anchored below us. The restaurant was a beautiful log structure very well done with many nice touches. The owners are from Koln, Germany. We rode on and stopped at the SAG wagon to talk to Kim Robinson from Canberra, Australia and about 23. Crossed about 1.5 - 2 miles of dirt rioad where we turned right and headed for Orangedale. Turned left in Orangedale to NS-105. We could see it raining ahead but we only had wet pavement when we got there. Turned right on NS-105 in heavy traffic and went about 3 miles to Whycocomagh. Biked into the Glenview Campground about 2:30 after 51.2 miles. Set up tent and showered for C$.25. The high today was 77 degrees. Drank a cream soda for C$1.02 from the camp store. The campground had a spaghetti, meatball, roll, butter, sweetbreads and tea dinner for C$5 under the pavillion. There was a tremendous downpour for about ½ hour. Saw Kim Robinson and she sold Pete and I 2 beers for C$5. Socialized with many people and went to bed at 9:15.



July 24, 2000 Monday Bike Whycocomagh to North Sydney

It was a clear calm night with a bright quarter moon. Got up at 5:44 and have been tidying up my gear. The sun is finally over the mountain at 6:35. Packed up with everything wet. Pete slept late so I waited for him. Rode to Vi's Restaurant by the campground for breakfast of 2 pancakes, ham, orange juice and milk. Gary Conrod joined us for breakfast. Rode off at 8:53 through town and out onto NS-125. They had roughed up the pavement for new paving for about 3 miles. Rode along a big lake that is very scenic. Turned right at 7.1 miles onto NS-223 and soon came to a free ferry at Little Narrows. We got into some hills but nothing too serious. The sky was threatening and we had a few drops but no rain. The weather actually turned out nice with mostly sun especially in the afternoon. Came to the grand Narrows Bridge and saw an eagle on the adjacent railroad bridge. Many people have seen eagles in our first two days. Stopped at Barre Straights Marina at the far end of the bridge for lunch at 10:40. I ate the sandwich I bought yesterday but bought a Barqs root beer for C$1.15. Most everyone stopped there. We rode along the St Andrews Channel for about 25 miles of very gently rolling terrain that didn't slow us down. Turned left onto George's River Road at 47.2 miles and continued along the water for about 10 miles. We made a left at one point to stay on George's River Road. Turned left into the Driftwood Campground at 1:50 after 58.3 miles. We camped right next to a lake near North Sydney. Set up my tent in the wind and dried it in a few minutes. Walked up to the showers which cost C$.25 ($ ). A nice lady in a sea kayak came by and offered to let us take it for a spin. Mike Molly went for about 15 minutes. She owned a campground up the lake. Got a LaBatts Blue beer from Nathan Chettiar for C$2.50 ($ ). Pete and I rode to North Sydney . Not much choice so we ate fish and chips, milk and chocolate milk for C$9.15 at the Dock. We biked back to camp making our total for the day 65.8 miles. Beautiful sunset on the water created different hews of many colors. Went to bed at 9:11.



July 25, 2000 Tuesday Bike North Sydney to St Ann's

It got cool but we had no rain. The tent is wet with a heavy dew and the sky is overcast. That will probably change many times during the day. Got up at 6:21. We are at 46 deg. 14.235 N and 60 deg. 17.999 W. Packed up and left gear by the truck. Biked out of camp about 8:00 and turned left on George's River Road to the Trans Canada Highway TCH-105 and turned left. We rode down a hill, across a bridge and up a few hundred yards to The Captains Table at 3.6 miles. Ate breakfast of everything omellette with toast and milk for C$10.97. Went back down the hill and turned right on the Bras d'Or scenic highway. We rode on the opposit shore of the St Andrews Channel for several miles. Turned right at 11.1 miles up over a hill when the road turned to gravel for 2-3 miles. We turned at the wrong spot due to a mixup in the cue sheet. We cut off at least 8 miles from the route. We stopped at the Cedar House on TCH-105 and had a strawberry ice cream for C$1.45 with the McIntoshes. Rode down the hill and across a big bridge. We then climbed up for 4.2 miles and 840' to the top of Kelley's Mountain which wasn't very difficult. We stopped at an overlook on each side of the peak for pictures and great views. After a nice downhill we turned right onto Englishtown Road. We crossed on another free ferry and rode another 2 miles to St Ann's Campground right on the water after 24.2 miles. It was about 12:10 so we rode on up the road to the Celtic Tea Room for a salad, fish chowder and milk for C$9.40. Came back to the campground after 34.5 miles. Several bikers were on the lawn waiting for the truck with their gear. Carol Bozena gave me a cold 16 ounce Alexander Keith beer which was very nice. The truck arrived and we set up tents by the water. Showered. Today was sunny and warm all day. Drank a Black Horse beer from Newfoundland for C$2.50 ($ ). Gary Conrod got 35 pounds of mussels and 60 corn on the cob. He cooked them by the beach for supper a real treat. Ray Derksen from Manitoba built a large fire on the beach and we all congregated for a while around the fire.



July 26, 2000 Wednesday Bike St Ann's to Ingonish

Got up at 6:42 and shaved. Packed up and finished my orange juice. Biked out of camp at 8:00 and turned right. Came to the Cabot Trail in about 2 miles. About 3.5 miles down the road we came to Pipers for breakfast of 2 eggs, bacon, blueberry muffin and milk for C$7.84. Biked out of Pipers at 9:00 and continued north along the coast. We came to Cape Smokey and Smokey Mountain at about 25 miles. We biked up 364 meters (1182') in 1.3 miles. I have biked up steeper and longer grades but nothing so steep for so long. That is an average grade of 17.2 %. We coasted down the other side but it was not as steep. I had a thumping in the rear wheel. I stopped twice but couldn't find anything. I finally discovered that my rear brake was stuck and touching the rim. We rolled into Ingonish about 11:00. Stopped at Jack's Seafood Restaurant in an inn for lunch of turkey rice soup, lobster salad sandwich and ginger ale for C$14.71. I concluded that Canadians don't make ice tea (unsweetened) but only sell it in cans. We sat on the porch with a great view of the middle cape shoreline cliffs and talked with a motorcycle couple from Toronto. Biked about 1.5 miles up to the campground with Carol Bozena and Pete Flaton. We arrived about 12:00 after 32 miles. We're camped in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Set up tent next to a bathroom. Pete and I biked out onto the middle peninsula to the Keltic Lodge on the middle head.

Ran into Tom and Jamie Buckner, Georgetown, TX 78627. We talked to them for over an hour. They had cycled all over the world. We had a hard time saying goodbye. Biked back to the campground and showered. Drank a Northern for C$2.50. Biked to the Atlantic Beach Resort for dinner of lobster, potato, mixed vegetables, salad, hot roll, vanilla shake and a sundae for C$41.32. Biked back to camp after 42.8 mies for the day. Had to get up and lock my bike. Got to bed at 9:40.



July 27, 2000 Thursday Bike Ingonish to Cape North

Got up at 6:20. Packed up tent and bag. Biked out of camp at 8:00 am for 2.5 miles to the Atlantic Beach Resort Restaurant. Ate breakfast of pancakes, bacon, orange juice and milk for C$11.72 with Carol Bozena, Darlene, Herb and Linda Scheffler. Biked out of the restaurant at 9:08. Biked along a beautiful coast stopping frequently. Stopped atop Little Smokey to watch what we thought at first were whales. An eagle soared overhead in the wind currents for 10 minutes. But wait, there is a whale! See his mouth and eye!

Grey whale at Guerera Negro, Baja, Mexico Feb 1998

At one point we had covered 10 miles in 90 minutes. Turned off the Cabot Trail at Neil's Harbour onto the Scenic Route. Stopped in Neil's Harbour at the Co-op store for a Ruby Red drink for C$1.29. We biked through New Haven, a neat little harbour town. We climbed out of the harbour over a long stepped hill and down to the other shore. We rode along the shore of high cliffs with dramatic ups and downs. Some were real screamers where we exceeded 40 miles per hour. We came back to the Cabot Trail and turned right for 2-3 miles into Cape North. Stopped at the Food Town for a good crab salad sandwich and a BRU soda something like a root beer for C$6.97. Returned for a bluehberry turnover with 2 scoops of vanilla ice cream for C$2.24. Crossed the road and up a bit to the Highlander Restaurant and found out that breakfast is from 8:30-11:30 am tomorrow. Backtracked 1.1 miles and turned left onto a gravel road for 2 miles to the Hide Away Campground about 2:00. Several of our group were eating lobster sandwiches and oysters on the lawn under a tree. Pete and I each bought and ate about a pound of fresh lobster on homemade bread sandwich and a cream soda for C$8. What a treat! So what, we ate two big lunches within an hour. Set up the tent with a great view of the water and the land head. We biked 34.8 miles in perfect weather. Drank a Black Horse beer with Nathan Chettiar for C$2.50. Hiked to the cliff edge and back then down to the Aspy River with Pete, Nathan and David Seto. Shuttled into Cape North to Morrison's for supper of lamb chops, vegetables, potato, Alexander Keith beer, clam chowder, rolls and strawberry shortcake for C$35.82 plus C$6 tip. Went to bed at 9:50.






July 28, 2000 Friday Bike Cape North to Cheticamp

Today was a fantastic day! Got up at 6:00 and packed up. Biked out of the campground at 7:30. We had a couple of miles of dirt road to the Cabot Trail highway. Came across 4 fox pups half grown playing in a field by a barn. One was wary of us and kept his distance. Two were unconcerned and played continuously with each other. The fourth came right up to Pete and I probably looking for something to eat.

We turned right onto the highway and rode uphill into Cape North and Morrison's Restaurant. Ate breakfast of blueberry pancakes, bacon, orange juice and milk for C$10.35 plus C$2 tip. Ron Marland and John Shea joined us. Rode out at 9:00. We came to North Mountain at about 12.4 miles. Stopped at one overlook and then continued up a very steep climb. I decided I was working too hard and decided to shift into my bottom chainring and lost my chain. I put it back on and topped the mountain then pulled over at the truck after 3.8 miles of steep climbing with Gary Conrod, Nathan Chettiar, John Shea and Paul Hicock. We had a very steep descent that was curvey. Near the bottom I stopped at the Lone Sheiling a Scottish herders shelter. Rode through Pleasant Bay then up MacKenzie Mountain. It was switchbacked and bad but not like North Mountain. Stopped at an overlook and took pictures with Carol Bozena, Herb and Linda Schettler. Continued on to the summit where Kim Robinson was waiting with the SAG van along with Ray Derksen, Ed Herage and Susan Webb. Biked on over several gradual steps up to the summit of French Mountain the highest point on the Cabot Trail. The top part of the mountain descent was straight so Pete and I really rolled down it. We caught a van and two cars in the curvey middle. Pete finally got past them. I stayed behind until we stopped for pictures at a great overlook of the coastline.

We cycled through a series of tough roller hills along the coastline into a headwind. We finally pulled into Cheticamp at 1:40 and the Hometown Kitchen for lunch of fish and chips, root beer float and 2 pitchers of water for C$14.17. Biked down the street to the Royal Bank and withdrew C$100. Stopped at the Cheticamp Co-op for 2 apples and four bananas for C$2.01. Rode against a stiff headwind with theatening clouds about 5 kilometers when we turned back to the right. With a stiff tailwind we rolled 3 kilometers into Plage St Pierre Campground on Cheticamp Island at 25 miles per hour at 3:00 pm after 53.7 miles. Set up tent in the wind, showered and shaved. Drank a Northen lager with Pete. Ate supper of rice, chicken, corn, cashews and chocolate chip cookies with Pete Flaton, Paul Hicock and Sue Pitts at the invitation of Linda our chef and Herb Scheffler. Collected almost everyone's Email address and some money for a tip for Nathan Chettiar and Kim Robinson. Went to bed at 9:45.



July 29, 2000 Saturday Bike Cheticamp to Inverness

Got up at 6:22. We had a very light sprinkle during the night. Waited a few minutes for a light rain to subside before packing up. Biked out of Plage St Pierre Campground at 8:30 am and out to the highway. Turned right into a gusting very stiff wind. It almost blew us off the road several times. Carol Bozena got blown off going over her handlebars and getting several scrapes and bruises. Gerry Jongejan got blown off but was not hurt. It was very slow and tough going. There was a little rain mixed in but not enough to get wet. We finally reached the Belle Isle Restaurant for breakfast of tea, 2 eggs, sausage, homefries, toast, jelly, apple juice, and milk for C$8.75. We crossed the river and turned right on NS-219. It was much easier with less wind and sometimes a tailwind. We fairly sailed along until I decided to slow down and drop back. Stopped at two cairns to a MacLeod who settled the area and a MacDonald who governed Nova Scotia twice and served as Canada's Secretary of the Navy during WW II. Turned right on NS-19 to stay on the Ceilidh Trail. Tootled into the Inverness Beach Village Campground at 12:37 after 35.2 miles. Set up tent in light sprinkles. Biked into Inverness where there were 4 boys playing fiddles and a keyboard and a man playing a guitar. They were playing lively Gaelic music to a large crowd in front of a store. Biked up to a restaurant for clam chowder and a root beer for C$7.39. Biked down along the beach in town and back to camp about 4:10 after 38.7 miles. Showered in tepid water. Went to dinner at 5:30 and sat with Kim Robinson by the ocean window since she was the odd person out. Ate blackened salmon, vegetables, potatoes, beer, Greek salad and cannolis for $60.60 at the Casual Gourmet.


Darlene,Carol Bozena,Linda & Herb Schettler,Dean & Katrina Schroeder,Ron Marland,Mike Molly,Pete Flaton, Marybeth Malone,John Shea,Paul Hicock










Pete Flaton,Katrina Schroeder,Marybeth Malone,Sue Webb,Ray Derksen,Sue Pitts,Ed Herage,Pam Robinson, Gerry Jongejan,Dave Seto





Mike Molly presented cards from everyone and over C$ each to Kim Robinson and Nathan Chettiar.



July 30, 2000 Sunday Bike Inverness to Port Hastings

Got up at 6:22 and packed up. It was very windy during the night with gusts that would cave in the side of my tent even in the sheltered area. It was still windy but dying down. Biked out of camp at 7:30 am, turned right on NS-19 and stopped in about ½ mile at the Ceilidh Cafe. Ate breakfast of 2 eggs, sausage, toast, homefries, orange juice and milk for C$6.59 plus C$1.25 tip. Paul Hicock, Sue Pitts, Ed Herage, Sue Webb, Marybeth Maloney, Ron Marland and John Shea also ate there. Biked from the cafe at 8:30 with a much diminished wind at our back. The wind was not much of a factor although it occasionally got in our face. Stopped at the Glenora Distillery in Mabou to check on Jack Moore's bottle of Scotch. Rode pretty much non stop except in Port Hood and an occasional pit or snack stop. The road was good and the hills very gentle so we rolled along pretty well. Biked into the MacPuffin Motel in Port Hastings at 12:20 after 54.4 miles. Packed the car with our bikes and bags then changed clothes. Said goodbye to many people and drove away at 1:05. Stopped for C$20 of gas. Stopped in St Johns about 5:00 for C$20 of gas, then Burger King for a grilled chicken sandwich, fries and vanilla shake for C$7.17 and then back for C$16.05 of gas. Crossed into Maine gaining an hour at 6:35 EDST. Drove to Bangor, Maine and stopped at Days Inn room 108 for $31.34 at 8:20 EDST. Showered and drank a Scottish Ale homebrew.



BIKE CAPE BRETON



COSTS



Canadian $ USA $
Atlantic Canada Cycling $250.00
Cash $300.00 $209.79
Cash Food $13.32
Gas Charges $49.76
Motel Charges $107.63 $139.89
Food Charges $182.39 $153.27
Film 2x$3.99 $7.98
Pictures $22.03
Total $846.03



STATISTICS




Miles
Drove Columbia, MD to Cape Breton 1,240
Drove Cape Breton to Columbia, MD 1,260
Total 2,500
7/23/00 Bike Port Hastings to Whycocomagh 51.2
7/24/00 Bike Whycocomagh to North Sydney 65.8
7/25/00 Bike North Sydney to St Ann's Bay 34.5
7/26/00 Bike St Ann's Bay to Ingonish 42.8
7/27/00 Bike Ingonish to Cape North 34.8
7/28/00 Bike Cape North to Cheticamp Island 53.7
7/29/00 Bike Cheticamp Island to Inverness 38.7
7/30/00 Bike Inverness to Port Hastings 54.4
Total 375.9




BIKE NOVA SCOTIA'S CAPE BRETON LIST



BikeBullet BagHealth
. Tire pumpBike clothes A&D ointment
. Helmut5 Bike pantsLipbalm
. Shoes8 Bike shirtsBismuth tablets
. Gloves8 Bike socksImodium
. Water bottleIbuprofin
. Bike bagClothes
... Spokes6 Golf shirtsDocuments
... Freewheel tool7 UnderwearVisa & Mastercard
... Knife2 BermudasHealth insurance card
... Allen wrenches6 SocksDrivers license
... Tire tools2 PantsMoney Card
... Patch kitDockersLog
... 4 TubesSwim trunksPens
... 2 TiresMaps & cue sheets
... Spoke wrenchHygieneAddress list w Email
... Pedal wrenchBattery shaverTrip info
... Rain jacketDeodorant
... SunscreenShampooEquipment
... Biking glassesCombCamera & film
... Lock & cableTooth brush, paste, flossBinoculars
... CyclometerScissors, trimmer4 AA batteries
... Lip balmTowel, washcloth,soapCyclometer batteries
... Tail lightSandalsCamera battery
... ThermometerSewing kit
Running ClothesSafety pins
. Camping2 SocksFlashlight
... TentShorts
... Sleeping bagShoesFood & Drink
... Thermorest3 T-shirtsMac cheese,ham,green beans
... PillowPotato,BBQ pork,rolls,choc pud
... 2 Trash bagsWearRice,tuna,peas,vanilla pudding
JeansNoodles,chicken,white choc pud
. Cooking & Clean upGolf shirtEnglish muffins
... PotsShortsPowdered milk
... Stove,lighterRunning socks14 Oatmeals
... SilverwareRunning shoes
... Fuel bottleCooler
... Scour pad,scraper12 Homebrews
... Soap,towelsButter
... PlatesOrange juice
Milk



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    Last updated August 11, 2000