NEW ZEALAND

BIKE SOUTH ISLAND

BACKPACK MILFORD TRACK

February 10, 1999   Wednesday   Fly Baltimore to Christchurch

Woke up at 4:34 and couldn’t sleep. Got up at 5:00 and ran 5.1 miles. Ate breakfast of orange juice, toast with butter and raspberry jam, banana and chocolate milk. Shaved and showered. Left at 7:03 and drove down MD100 to MD170 to Baltimore Washington International (BWI) Airport arriving at 7:25. Said goodbye to Anne. My bike box wheels buckle wouldn’t work so I needed a skycap for $2. It took 40 minutes to check in because the clerk wasn’t familiar with my bike coupon. I was able to check my bike and bag through to Christchurch. US Air flight 25 was delayed about 35 minutes but we made up most of the time in flight to Los Angeles arriving about 11:40 am. Brother Sam was waiting so we hung out until 2:00 pm when Sam took off for Lois’. He wanted to avoid the LA rush hour and get to Lois’ before 8:00 when she went to bed. Walked back to the Air New Zealand check in and everyone was there checking in. All I needed was a boarding pass. John Boyle, Chuck Leathery, Pat Canale, his son and girl friend, John Bartlett and others drank 3 Sam Adams beers at Cheers and my round was $32.77 plus a cheeseburger for $9.07. Boarded Air NZ flight 005 seat 55H a Boeing 747?400 and took off about 15 minutes behind schedule at 7:45 pm. Sat next to a couple from Elgin, Illinois named Hintz who were going to Queenstown. It was dark when we took off and when we landed 12 hours and 5 minutes later in Auckland at 5:22 am. We had supper and breakfast in flight. I slept 45?60 minutes 4 or 5 times. Had to go through customs with my bike and bag and then rechecked it at the continuing on desk. We transferred by bus to the domestic terminal where I got NZ$200 ($112.27 including $.75 ATM fee) from an ATM. We boarded Air NZ flight 541 at 7:45 and arrived in Christchurch at 9:10 on Friday February 12, 1999. I sat next to a very pretty and pleasant young woman from Auckland who worked for Air NZ. She told me a lot about NZ. The mountains of South Island are quite spectacular from the air especially the range around Mt Cook which had lots of snow. All the bikes did not fit on the plane with us so we got on a bus with our luggage and rode to a mall at 10:00 am. We walked around and ate fish and chips with lemonade for NZ$6.25 ($3.51). Bought a NZ map NZ$3.75 and 4 postage stamps at NZ$1 each and 4 post cards at NZ$.50 each ($5.47). Bused to Meadow Park Holliday Park about 11:00 am room 107 with Pete Flaton. The bikes arrived and we assembled them and flattened the boxes. Checked bike out and it worked pretty well. Ran to town center and back in about 43:33. Showered and separated into 2 bags the hiking and biking gear. Bused to Christchurch center where Ron Dowell, Pete Flaton, John Bartlett and I ate smoked salmon fettucini and 2 beers for NZ$21 ($11.65) at Bardelli’s Cafe. Got back at 9:00 and crashed at 9:15.

February 13, 1999   Saturday   Bus to Fairlie & Bike to Lake Tekapo

Got up at 6:15 and prepared my gear. 8:00 breakfast of orange juice, banana, oatmeal and donut. Loaded our bikes on the truck and bused about 130 miles to Ashburton where we had lunch of beef and mushroom pie and soda for NZ$4.25 ($2.39). Bused on to Fairlie where we unloaded about 1:40 and biked 28.8 miles over Burkes Pass at 708 meters to Lake Tekapo (Tee ka poe) arriving about 3:30. Drank a beer next to the lake with Pete Flaton and Alia Knowles who is 22 and just graduated from college. A very nice young lady who spent time in Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa. Bused to the airport and 14 of us took an Air Safaris plane ride with Richard Hayward over the glaciers and around Mt Cook for 50 minutes for NZ$180 ($99.83). This flight was a real highlight. Biked to Lake Tekapo Motor Camp cabin 7 with Pete Flaton, John Boyle and Chuck Leathery. Walked to the Jade Palace for spicy hot pork, rice and 2 beers for NZ$26.50 ($14.70). Showered and to bed at 11:00. Great setup with the lake just in front of the cabins.

February 14, 1999   Sunday   Bike Lake Tekapo to Twizel

I slept well although I slept on the top bunk bed and it was very saggy and squeaked every time I moved. 8:00 beakfast of orange juice, banana, donut, oatmeal and yogurt. Biked out of camp about 9:00. Really feeling good and enjoying the riding and scenery. Much cooler than yesterday afternoon. The roads are blacktop with fairly rough surface but in very good shape. There are a lot of 1 lane bridges and some with railroad tracks still in use. Not much traffic so the riding is great. New Zealanders are very friendly, helpful and curteous. Got into Twizel (Twi’ zel) about 11:30 after 38.7 miles. Ate cheese and broccoli soup, fish and chips and 2 beers at Hunter’s Cafe for NZ$18.50 ($10.12). Talked to a young Canadian woman from Victoria bike touring NZ on her own. Quite interesting. Checked into room 511 at the High Country Holliday Camp with sheets and towels. Showered and at 3:00 bused to Mt Cook where Pete Flaton, John Bartlett and I walked about 2 miles towards the glacier. Went to dinner of roast lamb, peas, potatoes, carrots, broccoli, pumpkin soup, 2 beers and boysenberry shortcake with ice cream and whipped cream for NZ$23.50 ($12.86) at the High Country restaurant. Went to bed at 10:30.

February 15, 1999   Monday   Bike Twizel to Wanaka

Got up at 5:50 and packed up. 7:00 breakfast of orange juice, oatmeal, banana and yogurt. Biked out with Pete Flaton at 7:45. It was fairly flat until we started up to Lindis Pass at 965 meters. Reached there about 11:00 and ate bag lunch of ham, cheese, tomato, pita bread sandwich, celery & carrots. It was mostly overcast with some sun. Had a nice long downhill. We then ran into a pretty good headwind which really dried me out. At one point my rear deraileur jammed into the spokes and freewheel. Pat Canale finally got it loose by removing the rear wheel. The wheel needed to be realigned. Got to Wanaka Motor Camp about 4:10 after 90.2 miles. Room 7 very small with nothing but a bunkbed. Showered and had Janech look at my bike. Ron Dowell, Pete Flaton, John Bartlett and I walked up and had an ‘Old Black’ draft. We then walked to Relishes for Morrocan lamb, cous cous, potato, salad and a tall Black for NZ$25.25 ($13.78). Walked back. Went to bed at 10:00.

February 16, 1999   Tuesday   Wanaka

Got up at 6:30. 7:30 breakfast of omellettes, onoions, cheese, tomato, orange juice, sausage and milk. Did laundry for NZ$2 and dry NZ$2 ($2.25). Found a bike mechanic with a tool to straighten the rear dropout on the frame. Also replaced the rear derailleur with a Shimano RSX for NZ$134 ($73.08) including NZ$15 labor at the Racers Edge. Went to Muzza’s Bar and Cafe with Bob Kiser, Pete Flaton and Ron Dowell for a pint of Old Dark, fish and chips for NZ$13 ($7.30). Stopped at a travel agent and found that our boat reservations were already set. Went to the New World and bought a bath towel for NZ$7.75 ($4.23). Stopped at the Purple Cow and sent Emails to Anne, Kevin, Jason and Jimmie Huelskamp. Set up Email address: danmcqueen99@hotmail.com. Walked down to Muzza’s Bar and Cafe for 2 Old Darks, curry pumpkin and potato soup, pork tenderloins, potato and salad plus an Old Dark for Pat Canale for NZ$33 ($18.52). Ron Dowell and Pete Flaton ate with me. Walked back and went to bed about 11:00.

February 17, 1999   Wednesday   Bike Wanaka to Makarora

Windy during the night. Got up at 7:00. 8:15 breakfast of orange juice, banana and oatmeal. Biked out about 8:54. Biked through some hills to Lake Hawea’s west shoreline. It looked very threatening but we didn’t encounter rain until the last 5 miles which was very light. Strong headwind all the way so we went pretty slow. Stopped in a service station in Hawea for orange juice for NZ$2.60 ($1.46). Stopped at a great overlook high above the lake. The mountains are very rugged and close in as opposed to Mt Cook when they were always at a distance. Stopped along Lake Wanaka about 11:30 for a bag lunch of pressed chicken, cheese, tomato, lettuce and mustard sandwich, carrotts, broccoli, cauliflower, cookies, cheese chips and orange. Scenery got better as we rode with several cut canyons with waterfalls. Biked into Makarora Valley and on to the Makarora Tourist Centre about 2:40 after 40.5 miles. The electricity was off. Had a cup of tea in the shop and waited until everyone got in. Ron Dowell, Pete Flaton and I shared an A frame chalet #3 with a beautiful mountain behind us. We have a kitchen, shower, bathroom and 3 beds with sheets and towels. Bought 2 Old Darks and a Sprite for Ron for NZ$5 ($2.81). Showered and washed biking shorts and shirt. Bought another Old Dark for NZ$1.70 ($.95). 8:00 supper of vegetable soup, fresh rolls, beef, mashed potatoes, peas, corn, stuffed zuccini, salad, boysenberry pie with whipped cream and fruit salad for NZ$20 ($11.23). Very good! Went to bed at 11:00.

February 18, 1999   Thursday   Bike Makarora to Haast

Got up at 7:00 and packed up. 8:00 breakfast of orange juice, oatmeal, banana and a bagel. Janech worked on my bike seat and apparently got it fixed as it stayed put all day. Pete Flaton and I biked out a few minutes before 9:00. We stopped immediately at the visitors center and I bought a Routeburn Track brochure for NZ$1 ($.56). Biked about 5 miles into the rain forest and national park where we stopped and hiked to Blue Pool. We hiked to a big river and across a suspension bridge to the Blue Pool formed by a small stream coming off the mountain. Biked to the top of Haast Pass at 563 meters. Rolled down to Fantail Falls where we hiked up to it. Rolled down to the bridge for a picture and then on down to Ribbon Falls where we hiked to it. Biked on to 12:00 bag lunch of pressed pork, cheese, tomato, and mustard sandwich, cookies and apple. Sandflies everywhere and misty rain. Biked on to Roaring Billy Falls where we hiked past huge moss and fern covered trees 10?12’ in diameter and 25’ ferns. Biked into Haast at 2:45 after 49 miles. Pete Flaton, Ron Dowell and I are in room 5 at the Wilderness Backpackers. Had a pint of Monteith’s Dark for NZ$4 ($2.25) at Smitty_s Tavern. Showered and shaved. Helen Riehl’s 58th birthday so we had beer, cheese and snacks. Called Anne 3 times on REI Mastercard but she couldn_t hear me and hung up. Dinner of grilled blue cod, potatoes and salad bar for NZ$16 ($8.98) with Ron Dowell, Pete Flaton and John Bartlett. Ate black current and french vanilla cone for NZ$1.55 ($.87). Talked to 2 Air Force couples from Colorado. Very nice people. Went to bed at 10:00.

February 19, 1999   Friday   Bike Haast to Fox Glacier

Got up at 6:00. 7:00 breakfast of orange juice, oatmeal, banana and bagel. Biked out at 7:55 and headed north along the coast. Got a shower within the first couple of miles but then it was dry. Climbed over 3 major hills with strong headwind. Rode with Pat Canale, John Boyle, Chuck Leathery and John Bartlett. The wind almost stopped me near the top of the first hill. Stopped at an overlook for 2 great pictures of the coast with large rocks jutting out of the water like in Oregon. Stopped at the Lake Paringa Motel for lunch of a hamburger and vegetable soup with garlic bread for NZ$14 ($7.86). We rode in a column taking 2 mile turns and stopping every 10 miles. It started raining about 25 miles out and has continued until now (8:21 pm). We really got wet but I was comfortable once I was totally wet. Picked up Janech in the line about 20 miles out. Rolled into Fox Glacier before 4:00 after 76.2 miles. Stopped in a bar for a Monteith’s Dark. Rolled down to the Fox Glacier Holliday Park and checked into cottage 18 with Pete Flaton. Showered. About 5:08 Anne called. She had received my Email as did Kevin. She said Sean was in the hospital with pneumonia. Bused up to Cafe Neve for supper of Monteith’s Ale, venison, mashed potatoes, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower and boysenberry mousse for NZ$32 ($17.96). Bused back and put wet clothes in the dryer NZ$2 ($1.12). Alec & Hillary Jarnell 15 Pohutukawa CREC?NMPB Raumbtl Beach, NZ 04 297?9159 alecjarnell@xpra.bo.nz Went to bed at 10:15.

February 20, 1999   Saturday   Bike Fox Glacier to Franz Josef

Got up at 7:23. The rain had stopped and it was clear. Packed up and put luggage on bus at 8:30. Biked about _ mile to town with Ron Dowell and Pete Flaton for breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, home fries, toast and orange juice for NZ$9.50 ($5.33) at the Fox Glacier Backpack. Biked out of Fox Glacier at 9:40 and immediately went up a major climb. It was sunny and very comfortable. I left Pete Flaton behind and passed Ron Dowell who left earlier. On the downhill around a bad curve John Bartlett wiped out. He apparently had been unconscious and had a broken collar bone. He was looking around in the ambulance when I arrived. I continued descending a very curvey road and then another major ascent. Continued down which was pretty fast because the curves were not so bad. A short climb and descent then across the flats to Franz Josef about 10:50 after 15.6 miles. John Boyle flagged me down for lunch of linguini and cheese macaroni with ham and ginger beer for NZ$8.50 ($4.77) at the Beeches Restaurant. Checked into Franz Josef Scenic Circle Lodge room 10 about 12:15 with no roommate and showered. Boarded bus with 19 others back to Fox Glacier for a glacier hike with Alpine Guides for NZ$39 ($21.89). We put on heavy wool socks, very heavy brogans and crampons. We bused up to Fox Glacier in a 1950 Bedford bus. Hiked up and over the rocky moraine. Saw and heard a huge piece of ice fall off the glacier cave at the leading edge of the glacier. Hiked up the side of the valley through rain forest even climbing a ladder at one point. Descended down to the glacier and hiked around it with crampons for over an hour. It was very rugged and we could hear the glacier moving and water running at a large hole. Scotty lead going and Murray lead coming back. Hiked back to the bus for a total of 3.1 miles but very tough. Bused back to Franz Josef for supper of a litre of dark beer, salmon steak, potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, potato soup, bread and a banan split for NZ$34.50 ($19.37) at the Beeches Restaurant with Ron Dowell, Pete Flaton, Bob Kiser and Bill Fischer. Walked back to my room and got my stuff off the bus at 9:30. Went to bed at 10:45.

February 21, 1999   Sunday   Bike Franz Josef to Harihari

Got up at 7:15 and packed up. 8:00 breakfast of orange juice, oatmeal and a scone. Biked out at 8:35 with Pete Flaton. Started out very easy but soon was moving along. Pretty flat. Rolled into Whataroa 20 miles down the road before 10:00. Hung around in art gallery and ate 2 peaches NZ$1.50 ($.84) on the porch with many other riders. Headed out and over a 200 meter hill to Harihari before 12:00 after 40 miles. Ate lunch of a meat pie, steak and mushroom pie, vegetable soup and _ litre of milk for NZ$8.50 ($4.77). Checked into room 56 of the Harihari Motor Inn. Did laundry NZ$2 and dried NZ$2. Hung out in the bar from 2:30 or 3:00 drinking Monteith’s Original Ale spending about NZ$12?13. Ate about 5:30 a supper of fish, chips, salad, pumpkin soup and salad with feta cheese for NZ$21 ($11.79) at the Harihari Motor Inn. John Bartlett came back with a broken collar bone but otherwise in good shape. Pat Canale moved out to sleep in John’s room so I was alone again. Went back and had a chocolate sundae for NZ$5 ($2.81). Talked to Bill Lang about biking in Cuba with Gordon MacQueen. Roads are very good. No trash. Glaciers everywhere. Kiwis very friendly and helpful. Riehls trekked in Patagonia. Email address? Bill Lang and Bill Goldschmidt biked Viet Nam. Bob Kiser biked Viet Nam to Thailand.Went to bed at 10:15.

February 22, 1999   Monday   Bike Harihari to Hokitika

Got up at 6:50 and packed up. It was raining lightly. 8:00 breakfast of orange juice, banana, oatmeal and cocoanut toast. Biked out with Pete Flaton at 8:30 in a light rain which lasted about 10 miles and then the sun came out. Stopped in Pukekora at a neat store museum for vegetable soup for NZ$3.50 ($1.96). Biking is easy and fairly flat so we could really cruise. Stopped in Ross for 2 nectarines for NZ$1.80 ($1.01). Ran over something and had my only flat in NZ. Biked into Hokitika, a nice seaside resort, about 12:45 and then to our lodging. We biked back to town for lunch of fish sandwich and ginger beer for NZ$4.80 ($2.69). Logged on to hot mail and got message from Anne that Sean is okay. Sent a message to Anne. Cost was NZ$2 ($1.12). Walked to the beach. Drank a beer at O’Connor’s Pub. Withdrew NZ$200 ($110.25 including $.75 fee) from an ATM. Bought a New Zealand biking shirt for NZ$112 ($61.74). Biked back to the Hokitika Holliday Park and checked into room 12 with Ron Dowell after 47.4 miles. Showered and caught 5:30 bus to town and had an Old Dark in Oconnors Pub in the Southland Hotel with John Bartlett nad Ron Dowell. 6:00 went to the Tasman View Restaurant in the Southland Hotel for dinner of cream vegetable soup, Old Dark draught, blue cod, potatoes, cauliflower, mushrooms and squash for NZ$27.10 ($14.94) with Ron Dowell and Pete Flaton. Walked back and had a 2 scoop boysenberry ice cream cone for NZ$2 ($1.10). Walked with a group up to see the glow worms which were quite neat. Went to bed at 10:50.

February 23, 1999   Tuesday   Bike Hokitika to Punakaiki

Got up at 6:46 and packed up. Ate 8:00 breakfast of orange juice, oatmeal and breakfast roll. Biked out at 8:35 with Pete Flaton. Sunny and warm. Biked along the coast all morning. Biked 4 kilometers to Shanty Town which was a tourist trap charging NZ$10.50. Didn’t go in. Drank a Just Juice for NZ$1.50 ($.83). Biked through Greymouth, a pretty big town, where we encountered a very strong headwind around the junction of the rivers. We continued on to Runanga before noon where we stopped for lunch of a litre of milk, fries, venison cake and chocolate chip cookies for NZ$6.80 ($3.75). Continued along an undulating coast for 10 miles with off shore rocks jutting from the water. Stopped in a tavern in Barrytown for a Monteith’s Original Ale for NZ$1.20 ($.66). Fairly strong headwind. Stopped and walked about a mile loop past three blowholes and the pancake rocks. Rolled down hill to Punakaiki Camping Grounds about 3:30. Went to Punakaiki Tavern for a pint of Monteith’s Original Ale and a pint for Pete for NZ$7 ($3.86). Phil our bus driver was there and left us some fried potatoes with sour cream. Checked into hut #2 after 58.6 miles with Ron Dowell, Bill Lang and Bill Goldschmidt. Showered and shaved. Walked to Punakaiki Tavern for supper of a pint of Monteith’s Original Ale, onion soup, chicken kabobs with fries and salad, apple shortcake with ice cream and whipped cream for NZ$27 ($14.88) with Pete Flaton, Ron Dowell and John Bartlett.

February 24, 1999   Wednesday   Bike Punakaiki to Westport

Got up at 7:02. 8:00 breakfast of orange juice, oatmeal, banana and fruit salad. Biked out of camp with Pete Flaton at 8:24. Immediately went up a big hill which set the tone for about 20 miles of hills along a spectacular coast. We took the 67A cutoff angling across to the seal colony with Chuck Leathery, Pat Canale and John Boyle. We walked the cliffs above the rocks with many seals on the rocks and in the water. Quite spectacular scenery and serene. Biked around the small bay to the Bayhouse Cafe for lunch of Old Dark, broccoli and bleu cheese soup, seafood salad and a smoothie (fruit milk shake) for NZ$27 ($14.88) at 12:15 with Pete Flaton, Chuck Leathery, Pat Canale and John Boyle. On leaving the cafe Pete had a flat tire. Biked past our place in Carters Beach into Westport. Had to backtrack to Carters Beach and the Seal Colony Tourist Park about 3:15 after 53.1 miles. Showered and did laundry NZ$2, dried NZ$1 and soap NZ$1 ($2.21). 5:00 bus into Westport for dinner of pumpkin soup, rack of lamb with baked potato, peas, carrots, broccoli, and parsnips for NZ$20.50 ($11.30) at Bailies. Bought a Kilkenny for Pete Flaton, John Bartlett, Ron Dowell and myself for NZ$10.80 ($5.95). Pat Canale and I split 2 litres of Speight_s Old Dark for NZ$6 ($3.31) each. Bus back to camp about 8:00. Ron Dowell and I bought an ice cream bar for NZ$2.20 and walked to the beach. Jerry Ludlum gave me several pictures he had developed. Went to bed at 10:00.

February 25, 1999   Thursday   Bike Westport to Murchison

Got up at 5:55 and packed up. 7:00 breakfast of orange juice, toast and oatmeal with fruit salad. Biked out with Pete Flaton at 7:35 in a light drizzle which kept up until 10:00. Biked uphill along a river in a deep canyon. Dave Knowles caught us and rode with us for several miles. Came to Inangahua after 30 miles of forest and stopped for orange juice NZ$1.30 ($.72) and a power bar. Continued on into Murchisoon about 12:40 where we stopped at a tearoom for lunch of sandwich and ginger beer for NZ$4.50 ($2.48). Biked into Riverview Holliday Park about 2:00 after 63.4 miles. Pete Flaton, Ron Dowell and I are in cabin 10 with no sheets or towels and quite small. Showered for NZ$2 ($1.10). Anne called about 5:20. 6:00 bus to town for supper of 1 litre of Monteith’s Original Ale, vegetable soup and mixed grill of sausage, bacon, 2 steaks, mushrooms, potato, carrots, corn, peas, cauliflower, parsnips, pumpkin and squash for NZ$23.70 ($13.06) at the Hampden Hotel. Ate a 2 scoop walnut ice cream cone for NZ$1.85 ($1.20). Went to bed at 9:30.

February 26, 1999   Friday   Bike Murchison to Richmond

Rained all night and pretty heavy after 4:00 am. Coach changed breakfast to 8:00 so we slept an extra hour. Got up at 7:00 and packed up. 8:00 breakfast of orange juice, oatmeal with fruit salad and banana. Biked out in the rain about 8:35 with Pete Flaton. Bill Lang and Bill Goldschmidt were ahead of us and the only ones biking end to end with us. It stopped raining for a while but started again and continued all day. It was flat for about 5 miles then we got into the mountains. There was supposed to be 3 good climbs but I couldn’t tell when one ended and the other began. Pete was very slow and I worried about getting in after 6:00. We finally cleared the mountains at 11:30 and started a long gradual downhill so we really picked it up. We stopped in front of a house and the lady, Linda, invited us in for tea and to eat our lunch. Nice to get out of the rain. We continued on and unexpectedly came to a 3 km hill that was very steep probably 10 ? 12%. It was flat after the downhill. Stopped in Belgrave for a Snickers bar NZ$1.20 ($.66) then breezed into Richmond at 3:00 covering the last 30 miles in 2 hours. Pulled into the Richmond Holliday Park and checked into room 34 with Pete Flaton after 70 miles. Showered. Walked to the Star and Garter for a litre of Mac’s Dark Ale with Pete Flaton and Ron Dowell. Had a great supper of cream of vegetable soup, fetucinni and chicken for NZ$19 ($10.47) plus a litre of Speight’s Old Dark for NZ$5.80 ($3.20). Walked to the dairy for a double boysenberry ice cream cone for NZ$1.80 with John Boyle, John Bartlett, Chuck Leathery and Pat Canale. Went to bed at 10:00.

February 27, 1999   Saturday   Bike Richmond to Blenheim

Got up at 6:05. Rained most of the night and still raining. Packed up. 7:00 breakfast of orange juice, banana and oatmeal with fruit salad. Biked out at 7:35 in a strong headwind with John Boyle, Pat Canale, Chuck Leathery and Pete Flaton.Biked through Richmond and Nelson along a seawall. The sea was breaking over the wall and going into the air soaking us. There was a typhoon at sea and we were fighting gale force winds. Sam told me he heard it on the news when I saw him in Los Angeles. We finally turned inland and out of the wind after 14 miles and 2 hours. We biked through some mountains with heavy rain. One climb was quite long but not too steep. On the downhill, Pat Canale went down on a bad curve. He was going over 30 mph but fortunately was not seriously injured but had plenty of road rash especially on his rear. Stopped in Whangamoa for lunch of orange juice, mince and potato pie for NZ$5 ($2.76). Biked into Blenheim where we had another headwind the last several miles. Pulled into Grove Bridge Holliday Park about 4:00 after 81.3 miles and checked into room 14 with Ron Dowell and Pete Flaton. Walked over to bottle shop and bought 6 pack of DB Draft beer for NZ$10.50 ($5.79) for Pat Canale. Showered. Walked to Rocco’s for dinner of 2 Canterbury drafts and a Mac’s Black, salad, garlic bread, and seafood pasta for NZ$35.50 ($19.57) with Ron Dowell, Pete Flaton, Ron and Helen Riehl, Chuck Leathery, John Boyle, John Bartlett and Pat Canale. Ron and I stopped for a boysenberry ice cream for NZ$1.50. Went to bed at 9:30.

February 28, 1999 Sunday Bike Blenheim to Kaikoura

Got up at 6:08 and packed up. 6:30 breakfast of banana,eggs, ham, onions, peppers, cheese and orange juice and English muffin. Short church service by coach. Biked out at 8:20 with Pete Flaton, Pat Canale, Chuck Leathery and John Boyle. Sunny but cool. Crossed 6?8 miles of flat then several hills which I was running very well. Had a tailwind most of the day so you could really fly. Stopped in Ward for a kiwi custard pie and a pint of milk for NZ$5 ($2.76). Saw a seal sleeping on the beech so John Boyle and I walked down to him for photographs. He wouldn’t let us get closer than about 20 yards. Stopped in Wharanui at a very nice restaurant on the water for lunch of seafood lasagna and a pint of milk for NZ$9.50 ($5.24). Also drank an orange juice for NZ$1.80 ($.99). Biked along the coast most of the day which was very pretty. Passed a seal colony with thousands of seals. Pat Canale had a flat and then a leaky tube. Rolled into Searidge Holliday Park apartment 19 in Kaikoura about 4:00 after 80.8 miles. We had sheets and towels and showers in the room. Showered and cleaned my bike and loaded it on the truck. Walked down to the Craypot for dinner of Speight’s Old Dark, cajun fish, fries, salad and mushroom soup for NZ$31 ($17.09). Also drank a Speight’s Old Dark for NZ$4 ($2.21). Walked to a dairy for a double boysenberry ice cream cone for NZ$1.70 ($.94). Went to bed at 10:00.

March 1, 1999 Monday Bus Kaikoura to Christchurch

Got up at 6:49 and packed up. 7:45 breakfast of 2 donuts, orange juice and milk. Bused to the sheep farm where we watched a Drysdale sheep get sheered. Went to top of hill with great views and watched dog herd sheep. Went to the house for tea and cupcake. House is large and fantastic with great views in all directions of the town and bay. Visit cost NZ$20 ($11.03). 10:30 bused down coast to Christchurch at 1:05. Stopped at Northland Mall for lunch of shepherd’s pie, custard fruit tart and milk for NZ$8.50 ($4.69). Bused to Meadow Park Holliday Park and checked into room 103 with Pete Flaton and Ron Dowell. Got bike boxes out of storage and unloaded bikes from the truck. Cleaned and boxed bikes. Joy came back at 6:00 and we loaded bike boxes. It got cold and rainy. Ron Dowell, Pete Flaton, Rose Campany and Edith Albright walked about a mile to Robbies Bar and Bistro for supper of a pint of Monteith’s Original Ale, Murphy’s Stout, seafood plate with with vegetables and goulash for NZ$30.10 ($16.59). Walked back and stopped for a chocolate nut ice cream bar for NZ$2.30 ($1.27). Went to bed at 10:15.

March 2, 1999 Tuesday Christchurch

Got up at 7:09 and showered. 8:00 breakfast of orange juice and crumpets. Michelle from Apex car rental picked me up and drove me downtown to sign the lease for a Nissan Blue Bird at NZ$472 ($260.19) for 8 days. I drove back to Meadow Park. Joy arrived and said she could not keep our bikes so Pete Flaton and I drove to the airport to meet Joy at 11:00. I checked Flora Newblatts bike and 2 bags for NZ$96 ($52.92) for 8 days, Ron and Helen Riehls 2 bikes for NZ$64 ($35.28) and my bike for NZ$32 ($17.64) all on my Visa. Drove back and picked up Ron Dowell. Walked to the Station for lunch of Monteith’s Black, mushroom and bleu cheese soup and pasta with chicken for NZ$23 ($12.68). Walked back and had a boysenberry ice cream cone for NZ$1.20 ($.66). Did laundry NZ$2 and dried NZ$2 ($1.21). Saw Flora and Stewart Newblatt so I gave them their claim slip and received NZ$96 in cash. Drove to the Station Cafe for supper of 2 Monteith’s Black and roast lamb with vegetables for NZ$29.50 ($16.26). Checked out of Meadow Park Holliday Park for NZ$19.35 ($10.67). Went to bed at 10:00.

March 3, 1999 Wednesday Drive Christchurch to Queenstown

Got up at 6:44 and showered. Packed up and loaded car. Pulled out at 8:04 and drove south on NZ1 to Ashburton after 9:00. Stopped at Frenz Cafe for breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausage, toast and orange drink for NZ$8.50 ($4.69). Turned right going west on NZ8 and headed towards the mountains. A brilliant day and we could see Mt Cook very clearly with no haze. Drove over the route we biked from Fairlie to just past Tarras. It was a thrill and I could recognize almost everything. Stopped in Cromwell about 1:45 for lunch of a sandwich and glass of milk for NZ$4.20 ($2.32) plus ice cream bar for NZ$2.20 ($1.21). Drove down towards Queenstown and stopped at Kawarau Bridge , the original, to watch them bungy jump. They bounce back up almost to the bridge and continue to bounce about 3?4 times. Ran into Dave, wife and Alia Knowles at the bridge. Contined on into Queenstown and the Hotel Esplanade about 4:15. New owners said they cancelled our reservation at 3:45 2 hours after our supposed arrival time of 1:45. We got rooms in the Thomas’ Hotel in downtown on the water. We flipped and I got room 324 for NZ$60 ($33.08). Ron Dowell and Pete Flaton got room 208 for NZ$60 ($33.08). We unloaded the car and I parked it about a mile down the road. We walked to Pog Mahones for a pint of Speight’s Old Dark for NZ$5 ($2.76) and sat outside by the water to drink. Walked around and bought Pedaling Paradise at Paper Plus for NZ$11.95 ($6.59). Ate supper of Singha beer, seafood soup, green currie seafood and rice at Thai Siam for NZ$25.35 ($13.97). Walked around the corner for a double scoop of walnut ice cream for NZ$2 ($1.10). Walked to Discount Dialing and sent Anne an Email message for NZ$1 ($.55). Went to bed about 10:30.

March 4, 1999 Thursday Drive Queenstown to Te Anau

Got up at 7:15 and showered. Packed up and went down to breakfast of orange juice, toast omellette with bacon, mushrooms, onions, tomato, green peppers, red peppers and cheese for NZ$18.50. Talked quite a bit with our waiter and cook from Manchester England. Picked up car and loaded it. Checked out and split the 2 rooms 3 ways so my share was NZ$40 ($22.05). Drove out of Queenstown about 9:50. Drove down the lake to Te Anau arriving about 12:00. Ate lunch of Speight’s Old Dark with a Mexican potato and salad at Bailiez for NZ$11.50 ($6.34). Walked to the Explorer Hotel and checked into room 6. Walked back to car and drove to hotel and unloaded . Walked down to the Department of Conservation and picked up our hut reservations and boat ticket NZ$28 ($15.44) plus Milford Sound boat ticket NJZ$22 ($12.13) plus bus ticket to Te Anau Downs for NZ$35 ($19.29). Bought a Kepler Track brochure NZ$1 ($.55) and a Milford Track topo map for NZ$13.50 ($7.44). Weather forecast is heavy rain for tomorrow Friday. Sunday when we go over the pass should be decent. Walked back to the hotel and packed our backpacks. Walked to the Village Inn for supper of Speight’s Old Dark, tomato vegetable soup, lamb with eggplant, mint sauce, potatoes, carrots, broccoli and squash for NZ$26.50 ($14.61). Ron didn’t bring any breakfast or lunch for the track so we drove to a store where we bought some food. I bought cheese and crackers NZ$4.20 for tomorrow since we will be on the 10:15 boat and can’t get lunch. Bought double boysenberry ice cream cone for NZ$1.80 ($.99). Went to bed at 10:30.

March 5, 1999 Friday Drive Te Anau Downs to Boat Milford Track to Hike Clinton Hut

Got up at 6:31 and showered. Cooked sausage , eggs and roll with butter and orange juice for breakfast. Packed up and stored bag at hotel. Gased up in Te Anau and turned left at 8:53 towards Te Anau Downs arriving about 9:15. Loaded boat with about 20 others including many day hikers and departed at 10:18 for 1:15 ride to Milford Track trail head. Rained off and on with brief rays and sun. Often had a nice rainbow. At 11:40 started hiking along the Clinton River in the rain to Clinton Hut arriving at 12:45 after 2.2 miles. There are 2 new bunk houses sleeping 20 each with a divider down the middle and a kitchen with 6 double cookers and 2 coed toilet rooms with about 4 commodes and 4 sinks. The bunk rooms and kitchen are connected by decking and wide overhangs. Wet boots and coats are left outside on wall pegs and under cover. Ate lunch of lemonade, cheese crackers, cheese with chives, chocolate chip cookies and dried apricots. Talked to Jerry and Steve from Huntington Beach, California. Talked to an English army officer (with four toes on each foot) from southern England. He was the first European I have met who understood the constitutional issue involved with Clinton’s impeachment. 5:00 cooked supper of sloppy joes, mashed potatoes, chicken noodle soup and hot chocolate. Sat with 2 Kiwi couples from Blenheim and chatted with them for some time. Got a view of the mountains and waterfalls around the hut which are fantastic. Colin Turnbull the ranger came at 8:00 and talked about the trail and the kea birds which are quite agressive. Led a walk to see the glow worms but I didn’t go. Went to bed at 9:45.

March 6, 1999   Saturday   Hike Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut, Milord Track>

Got up at 7:00 and made breakfast of 2 toasted English muffins with strawberry jam and 2 strawberry oatmeal and orange juice. Packed up and was ready to go at 8:20. Hiked out of Clinton Hut at 8:54 with Ron Dowell and Pete Flaton. Hiked up narrow V canyon with the Clinton River on our right. There were several ribbon falls on both walls probably 20?30 all day. The canyon opened up somewhat after Hierere Falls. The sun came out for good about 10:00 am. Continually rising all day and it got steeper the last mile. Saw some pretty small lakes and one had some ducks. Stopped at 11:50 for lunch of water, 2 peanut butter crackers, 2 granola bars, dried apricots and some gorp. It got prettier and more spectacular as we progressed up the valley. Hiked into Mintaro Hut at about 600 meters at 2:00 with Pete Flaton after 11.2 miles. At Mintaro Hut you walk into the kitchen and there are 2 bunk rooms in the back for 8 each. The upstaris is a big open bunk room as well with mattresses on the floor. The toilets are a separate coed building with 3 sinks and flush commodes. Have been warned about the kea birds and have seen many cartoons, TV ads and jokes about them and how they steal everything. Washed up and washed my shirt and hung it outside in the sun. Keas are big green parrots with multiple colors on the breat and wing bottoms. Their large beak can tear or break virtually anything. There are 38 of us hiking through together. Had a cup of soup and hot chocolate. Walked down to the lake and took a picture. Cooked macaroni cheese, ham and banana cream pudding. 7:30 meeting with ranger Andy. Went to bed at 9:30.

March 7, 1999 Sunday Hike Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut, Milford Track

Could hear the keas squawking in the early morning hours. Keas are parrots that live in rock crannies above tree line. Got up at 7:00 and ate breakfast of orange juice, 2 banana oatmeal and 2 toasted English muffins. Packed up. Hiked out at 8:34 with Ron Dowell and Pete Flaton. It was fairly flat for about a mile and then we started switchbacks up the headwall of the canyon. Pete and I passed many people and a large group around the tree line. We got to McKinnon Pass in 1:11 at 9:45 am. It was clear but soon clouded in. It would clear and cloud in about every 5?10 minutes. The views were spectacular looking down the Clinton River Valley which we had hiked up and the mountain peaks all around us. Stopped at the Pass Hut and then hiked down into the valley in Fiordland. This is the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen. Hiked down along a cascade for about a mile which was really great. Met ranger Scotty working on the trail. Got to Quintin Hut about 12:50. Ate lunch of 2 packs of peanut butter crackers, 2 granola bars, dried apricots and a little gorp. Walked up to Sutherland Falls without packs which is 1904’ and awesome. I walked over a little hill to its base which has its own wind, rain and roar. Walked back to the hut in about 50 minutes round trip. Ran into rain around Quintin Hut and it rained the rest of the day. Hiked about 45 minutes to Dumpling Hut at 3:35 after 11.7 miles. Heated water and had lemonade, creamy chicken soup and hot chocolate. It continued to rain. Cooked rice, tuna, minted peas and butterscotch pudding for supper. Ron Dowell finally got in at 6:45 so we could relax. Ate and cleaned up. Ranger Scotty talked at 7:30. Went to bed at 9:30. Everyone going to bed early.

March 8, 1999 Monday Hike Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point, Milford Track

The wind blew and it rained all night sometimes quite heavily. Got up at 6:00 and ate breakfast of orange juice, 2 peaches and cream oatmeals and 2 toasted English muffins. Packed up and hiked out at 7:35 with Ron Dowell. It was raining heavily and continued all day about 3.5’ worth. It was barely light. Pete Flaton caught us after about 30 minutes. We could see the whole mountain was one continuous waterfall. We were going very slowly so Pete and I left Ron after 3 miles and 2 hours. It was slightly downhill but rocky. The rivers and streams were roaring as we crossed them on many foot bridges. Passed McKay Falls which was very impressive and cave rock. Crossed the river on a suspension bridge and there was a falls on our left that was unbelievably large and powerful. The wind from the falls caused me to loose my balance once. Finally reached Lake Ada and hiked 3 miles with the lake on our right. 8?10 times we had to ford streams with water to our knees and very strong and treacherous current. The path was a stream about 4 inches deep in many places. The last 3 miles was virtually a road with one bad stream crossing. Arrived at Sandfly Point Hut at 12:35. Ate lunch of 2 peanut butter crackers, 2 granola bars, dried apricots and some gorp. Everyone got in for the 2:00 boat except Ron Dowell. Ron finally came in at 2:33 and we boarded the boat with the guided hikers for the 20 minute ride Milford. Went to a pub for 3 litres of Milford Ale and Speight_s Old Dark for NZ$4 ($2.20). Nigel was there with 2 Brits and 4 Kiwis. 5:00 bus picked us up in the pub and rode to Te Anau Downs. The American , his wife and 2 daughters were on the bus. Bused up the mountain and through a long tunnel which was very impressive then past the Routeburn trailhead. Got off at Te Anau Downs at 6:24 and drove to Te Anau. Checked into the Explorer Hotel room 6 and went to dinner of tomato vegetable soup, seafood pasta, raspberry sundae and a Speight’s Old Dark for NZ$32.50 ($17.92) at the Moose. Ran into 2 Kiwi couples, Jerry and Steve fron Huntington Beach, California and the American family with 2 daughters. Showered and shaved and to bed at 10:20.

March 9, 1999 Tuesday Drive Te Anau to Christchurch

Got up at 7:00 and packed up. Cold 8c and raining. Drove to DOC and bought Milford Track certicate for NZ$2.20 ($1.21). Ate breakfast of 2 eggs, sausage, bacon, toast, orange juice, milk and hash browns for NZ$13.80 ($7.61) at the Quality Inn. Left Te Anau at 9:22 and headed east towards the coast on NZ94 to Gore where we turned north on NZ1. Drove through several large towns and Dunedin which is a harbor city sitting in a bowl. Gased up in Gore. Just past Dunedin the rain stopped and we had a warm sun. Stopped at McDonalds in Oamaru for a fish filet, fries and banana shake for NZ$6.05 ($3.34). Put NZ$12 ($6.62) worth of gas in Ashburton and called the hotel that we would be late. Drove to Meadow Park Holliday Park at 5:40 and checked into suite 8. Unloaded and Pete Flaton called on his car which will be delivered at 9:00 am tomorrow. Drove to the Station for roast lamb, potato, carrots, cellery, onion, squash, pumpkin, cauliflower, broccoli, mushrooms, mushroom soup and a Monteith’s Dark for NZ$32.50 ($17.92). Stopped at a gas station for an almond ice cream bar for NZ$2.20 ($1.21). Did laundry NZ$2 and dry NZ$1.50 ($1.93). Went to bed at 10:30.

March 10, 1999 Wednesday Fly Christchurch to Auckland to Los Angeles to Baltimore

Got up at 6:45 showered, shaved and packed up. Checked out for NZ$20.15 ($11.11) and then waited at the office for Pete Flaton_s rental car at 9:00. Pete followed me to Apex Rental where we split the NZ$472 3 ways on our credit cards at NZ$157 ($86.55). Said goodbye to Pete Flaton and left luggage in the car then walked around Christchurch with Ron Dowell. Stopped at Murphy’s Irish Pub for lunch of a pint of Beamish Stout, a pint of Guinness, quiche and tomato vegetable soup for NZ$18 ($9.92). The Kiwi couple from Auckland and the Milford Track stopped and talked to us for a few minutes. Watched the characters at speakers corner in front of the cathedral including the Wizzard of NZ with his double fronted VW. Walkled back to Apex and was driven to the airport. Said goodbye to Ron Dowell. Claimed my bike from storage and checked it with my bag to Baltimore about 2:50. Met Flora and Stewart Newblatt and then Ron and Helen Riehl. At 5:30 flew to Auckland in 1:05. Ran into Dave and Alia Knowles. Boarded Air NZ flight 2 about 9:10 and took off about 9:40 pm for Los Angeles. Slept some during the 12:15 flight landing in LA about 1:00 pm. Had to collect bike and bag and go through customs. Rechecked bike and bag at the continuing on desk. Sam and girl friend Lois met me and hung out until 5:45. Ate a fish filet sandwich, fries and ice tea at McDonalds. Ate supper of tostados, tortillas and salsa for $9.64 at El Paseo. Flew US air flight 60 at 9:05 to Baltimore and landed at 5:05 am. Anne picked me up and drove home arriving at 5:40 on Thursday March 11. 1999.