99 BIKE FRANCE

July 1-18, 1999

July 1 ,1999   Thursday   Fly Baltimore via Philadelphia to Paris

Got up at 6:04 and ran 5.1 miles. Breakfast of orange juice, chocolate milk and toast with butter and strawberry jam. Showered. Drove to Tower Credit Union for $60 from the ATM, Staples for passport copies and the Post Office to mail bills. Finished packing and ate all leftovers for lunch. Nelsons with Bryan arrived at 12:50 for ride to Baltimore-Washington Internqational Airport (BWI). Big lines but they moved us ahead so we got checked in quickly with no problems. Stopped in a bar for a draft P.O. Red Hook beer. I bought for 4 of us so it was $16.43. Boarded USAir flight 165 for 3:40 departure in seats 4B and 4C but we were delayed about 50 minutes getting into Philadelphia. We had only ½ hour to go from one end of the terminal to the other so we had no spare time. We boarded USAir flight 26 seats 11F and 11G and then sat 1.5 hours for clearance to take off. We finally got off and had supper of Cabernet Savignon, steak, potato, corn, salad, cheese and crackers, Bloody Mary mix and chocolate cake. Watched movie “October Rising”. Catnapped for an hour or two.

July 2, 1999   Friday   Land in Paris and prepare for bike trip

The lights came on and we were served breakfast of crescent roll, orange juice, muffin and milk. It turned daylight quickly. We flew over the French coastline and landed at DeGaulle Airport about 7:55 am. It took us a couple of hours to deplane, get our luggage and bikes and go through immigation and customs. Withdrew 1000F ($160.07) from an ATM in the airport. Fifteen of us loaded onto a hotel shuttle bus with our luggage while the rest shuttled our bikes (5 trips) in a rented van to the Hotel Campanile in Roissy room 112. Picked up our bikes, unpacked and assembled them in our room. Ate lunch of 1664 draft beer, mashed potatoes and fish for 106F ($16.70) in our hotel. We had a 3:00 meeting where we laid out the next days agenda. I rode our bikes in front of the hotel to check for problems. We put our bike boxes in a room in the hotel for storage until our return. We had beers for 40F ($6.43) on the veranda. Eleven of us walked to town and the Trois Gourmands for dinner of 5 cl of red wine, steak, fries, salad and peach melba crepe plus Anne’s dinner for 181F ($28.55). Returned to the hotel at 9:30. Showered and to bed at 10:30.

July 3, 1999   Saturday   Bike Paris via Versailles to Chartres

Got up at 5:00. Ate breakfast of orange juice, croissants, bagette, jelly and butter at 5:45. Loaded luggage on our rented van at 6:45. Biked 2.4 miles to the Metro station. It cost 20F ($3.21) each with our bikes for the Metro to Gare du Nord. Met Serge (a biker who lives in Paris) in front of the station at 8:15. Biked through Paris and saw the major sites including the tunnel where Princess Diane was killed. Stopped at Serge’s house for tea, and bread with butter and jam. Met Serge’s brother Erik, his wife and Serge’s daughter 18. Biked through a woods on a bike path to Versailles where we went to 3 markets for 2 peaches, 2 tomatoes, 2 soft drinks, bagette and cheese for 40F ($6.43). We picnicked under a tree next to the Palace of Versailles. We biked through parks and National Forests. Serge and his friend, the French Ambassador to Japan, surprised us with a bagpipe serenade in the Versailles Park. Had many long delays including Pat Reynolds and then calling the van for Carol Nelson who fell and hurt her shoulder. Four people got lost and had to be vanned into Chartres. Saw many sites and finally got in to the Hotel Jehan de Beauce in Chartres at 9:05 after 77.8 miles of biking. Went to the Little Rock Cafe next to the hotel for supper of pizza, 2 beers and peach melba plus Anne’s meal for 173F ($45.12). Showered and to bed at 11:30.

July 3 - Dan & Anne starting in Paris...

July 4, 1999   Sunday   Bike Chartres to Vendome

Got up at 7:15. Ate breakfast of bagette, croissant, orange juice, butter, jam and cheese. Loaded Anne’s bike on the van and stowed luggage. Raining lightly. Toured Chartres old town and the cathedral. Biked to Chateaudun for lunch of ham, cheese omellette, green salad, fries and orangina for 75F ($12.01) at a sidewalk cafe. Biked to the Chateau and walked up a street fair. Biked out in the sun and was continually lost. Rode with almost everyone on the trip at some point during the day. Rained again and quite heavy for a while. Fixed Bob Benhoff’s flat in the rain and then Kathy King appeared out of the rain and Barry Nelson fixed her flat. Arrived at the Interhotel Capricorne in Vendome at 6:55 after 69.1 miles. Trip cumulative total is 146.9. Our room is on the second floor accessed by an open walkway overlooking the interior pool and grass courtyard.Showered and shaved. Walked down and had a Heinekin for 18F ($2.88) and then a Heinekin and a red wine for 48F ($7.68). Ate supper of salad, duck, chicken, red wine and a caramel custard.

July 5, 1999   Monday   Bike Vendome to Ambois

Woke up at 6:55. Hurried to breakfast of cereal, bagette, croissant, butter, jam and orange juice. Biked around Vendome, a very neat city on many islands. Biked out of town with Anne, Frains and Barry Nelson. Nice country roads with little traffic. Just past Cruchery, I avoided hitting Anne in the back by making a right angle turn to the left. The centrifical force threw me off my bike backwards and to the right. I shattered my helmet and had a terrrific head ache for about 10 minutes. I also injured my ankle, hip, the back of my ribs, shoulder and finger. We biked through a mixture of sprinkles and sun. Biked into Blois and ate lunch of onion and ham quiche and orangina with Anne’s food for 82F ($12.96) at La Duchesse Anne plus 2 fruit tartes from the patisserie next door for 20F ($3.20) below the huge chateau. Crossed the bridge and biked along the Loire River for many miles. At Chaumont, Barry Nelson and I joined up with Bill Wolff and Pam Bair on a tandom and biked down to Chenonceaux Chateau in the Cher River. Spectacular. Biked in to the Chaptal Hotel room 26 in Amboise at 5:45 after 71.6 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 218.5. We had done some fast riding for many miles which felt good. Showered and went for a 5 cl and a 2.5 cl Morgans beers for 33F ($5.28) with Barry Nelson and Lew Frain. At 7:45 ate supper of crepes, veal, mushrooms, tomato, scallop potatoes, fried dough, cheese, ice cream and red wine 38F ($6.08) in the hotel. Excellent meal, the best of the whole trip. Walked down to the river, around the castle and town with Nelsons and Frains. Very nice. Stopped for 5 cl of beer for 40F ($6.40). Got back to hotel at 10:50. Went to bed at 11:45.

July 5 - Dan at Chenonceux Chateau on Cher River...

July 6, 1999   Tuesday   Bike Amboise via Tours to Chinon

Got up at 6:45 and packed up. 7:30 breakfast of hot chocolate, bagette, croissants, butter and jam. Flat rear tire from a puncture. Lew patched tube. Bought a new helmut for 175F ($27.64) and 2 innertubes for Bob Benhoff. Biked down the river about 9:15 on D145 to Tours. Stopped at the cathedral. Stopped at a street market and bought bagette, nectarines, Bing cherries, cheese, tomatoes and 2 sodas. Several blocks after the market, my rear tire blew and stampeded 2 horses pulling a carriage. Ate lunch at Villandry Chateau by the gardens. Biked on a dike along the river for many miles. Stopped at Chateau Usse for pictures. Stopped in Avoine for a beer 11F ($1.76) and soon many of our group joined us. Biked into Chinon along the river past the Chateau to the Diderot Hotel about 5:30 after 51.1 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 269.6. Showered and drank a 1664 beer at the hotel for 13F ($2.08). Walked with Frains to L’ Oceanic Restaurant for supper of salmon pate, salmon fillet, cheese, ice cream with chocolate sauce, bagette and red wine plus Anne’s meal for 263F ($41.56). Walked back and drank a 1664 beer at the hotel for 13F ($2.08). Went to bed at 11:15.

July 7, 1999   Wednesday   Bike Chinon to Portier

Got up at 6:42 and packed up. 7:20 breakfast of orange juice, bagette, croissant, milk, butter and jam. Biked out at 8:15 our earliest start. Cool but not bad. Terrain reasonably level. Stopped in Loudun for pastry for 10F ($1.60). Carol Nelson got into the van at Moncontour. Not far past Moncontour a dog ran in front of Kathleen Frain so she ran over it and fell. Fortunately the van was near and we loaded Kathleen into it with her bike. Stopped in Assois for lunch at a bar that served a fixed menu of ham, bagette, cantaloupe, duck, fries, ice cream, orangina and a beer for 170F ($27.21). Anne and I were left behind so we biked into Portiers alone. We ran into a detour and circled downtown looking for the information center. Finally got into southeast Portiers and stopped at a police station near our hotel for directions. Shortly arrived at the Abori Hotel on Rue Jacques Couer about 6:10 after 73.6 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 343.2. We each had a beer for 22F ($3.52). Showered. Drank another beer for 11F ($1.76). Walked to the Casino Cafeteria for supper of salad, orangina, rice, tomato, tripe and blueberry pie for 65.50F ($10.35). Walked back to hotel for 5 cl Amstel beer for 22F ($3.52).

July 8, 1999   Thursday   Bike Portier to Confolens

Got up at 6:40 and packed up. Ate breakfast of croissant, bagette, orange juice, butter, jam and hot chocolate. Biked out at about 8:40. Took D12 to Bouresse where we stopped and bought ½ bagette, cheese, tomatoes, Bing cherries, nectarines and an almond chocolate bar for 37F95 ($6.07). Biked on to L’ isle Jourdan where we bought a coke and orangina for 24F ($3.84) then ate lunch by the river in a hotel. Went the wrong way and biked out of town on D11 so we continued on to St Germain where we stopped for 2 ice creams on a stick for 24F ($3.84). My rear tire was flat and had a chunk out of it. Lew Frain gave me a new spare foldup for $20 which we put on and patched the tube. Rode in to the Vienne Hotel room 5 in Confolens about 4:10 after 49.6 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 391.8. Walked to an ATM and withdrew 100F ($16.51) by mistake and then 1000F ($158.32). ATM went down so I walked around with Lew Frain looking for another ATM that worked. Returned to hotel and sat by the river Vienne for 4 beers. Van problems so we couldn’t get our luggage. 8:00 dinner of salad, chicken, cheese, ice cream and 5 cl red wine for 20F ($3.18). People with the van finally arrived after 9:00. To bed at 11:15.


July 8 - Bob, Kathleen, Anne, Lew, Joe & Anne at lunch in L'isle Jourdan

July 9, 1999   Friday   Bike Confolens to Nontron

Got up at 6:40 and shaved. 7:30 breakfast of croissants, toast, hot chocolate, orange juice, butter and jam. Bike out about 8:30 with Joe Dumin, Anne Stratmann, Frains and Nelsons. It is significantly hillier though still not so bad. It is also getting warmer. Biked down B59 to Chabanais where we stopped for a strawberry, creme and cake pastry with milk in a cafe by the River Vienne about 10:00. Biked to Rochechouart where we stopped in a market for bagette, cheese, 2 drinks, cucumber, tomato, onion, Bing cherries and cantaloupe. Biked through Vayres where Carol Nelson got into the van. We stopped along the road for lunch. Biked in to the Grand Hotel room 16 in Nontron about 2:15 after 50 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 441.8. Went to bar next door for 3 draft Kronenbergs for 33F ($5.24) with Anne, Bill Wolff, Pam Bair and Bob Benhoff. Showered and handwashed some clothes. Walked around town and bought a knife for 22F ($3.50) plus wine and nuts for 22F70 ($3.61) which we drank and ate in our room. 7:30 dinner of salmon pate and cheese, duck and ice cream.

July 10, 1999   Saturday   Bike Nontron to Montpon-Menesterol

Got up at 6:42, packed up and took bags to the van. 7:30 breakfast of croissants, bagette, orange juice, hot chocolate, butter and jam. Biked out about 8:15 up a big 2 mile hill. Biked about 29 miles to Tocane-Apres where we got caught up in the middle of a professional bike race. Photographed the leaders and peleton. Had a great strawberry pastry in Tocane. Kathleen and Anne waited for Carol Nelson in Tocane. We biked on and stopped in St Vincent de Connezac for a ham and cheese sandwich and an orangina for 30F ($4.77). We had some cloud cover so it wasn’t too hot. Biked in to the La Belle Epopue Hotel room 5 in Montpon-Menesterol about 3:00 after 61.7 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 503.5. We were all excited by the bike race in Tocane. The Tour de France leg was won by Cepolini which was very exciting on TV. Drank several beers in hotel with Joe Dumin, Barry Nelson, Lew Frain, etc. Showered , shaved and did laundry. 8:30 supper of mellon and ham, wine, pasta, steak, squash, cauliflower, carrots, cheese and ice cream. To bed at 11:20.


July 10 - See us in le peleton in Tocane-St Apre?

July 11, 1999   Sunday   Bike Montpon-Menesterol to Bazas

Got up at 6:40 and packed up. 7:30 breakfast of orange juice, hot chocolate, croissant, bagette, butter and jam. Biked out at 8:20 with Dumins, Frains and Nelsons. Biked and talked with 3 Frenchmen from Villefranche-de-Louchet to Castillon-la-Bataille. Stopped for a pastry and milk. Bought cheese, nectarines, cucumber, onion, Bing cherries and orangina. Ate under arched pavilion in Sauterre de Geyenne. It got very hot. Stopped in La Reole for 2 orangina for 28F ($4.45). Biked into Bazas and on to the Relais Bazadais Hotel room 18 about 5:00 after 58.6 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 562.1. Drank a litre of Kronenbourg for 36F ($5.72). Now seeing vineyards everywhere. Passed by grain fields including wheat, rye, oats and something I don’t recognize. Sunflowers are very prevalent. Wine caves and houses are built into the cliffs especially along the rivers. Beautiful old towns on the streams. Chateaus, churches and cathedrals galore. 8:00 dinner of red and white wine, vegetable salad, salmon, elbow macaroni, bagette and fruit salad. To bed at 10:30.

July 12, 1999   Monday   Bike Bazas to St Sever

Got up at 5:45, packed up and loaded van. 6:30 breakfast of orange juice, hot chocolate, croissants, bagette, butter and jam. Biked out at 7:30. Missed a turn and was off the route for about 4 miles. Dumins, Frains and us kept moving pretty well. Cool but comfortable in shirt sleeves. Foggy. Riding through pine forest that is very flat with slight dips at the streams. Caught up to Bob Benhoff and rode into Losse about 32 miles from Bazas. Bob Benhoff, Anne McQueen and Kathleen Frain stayed in Losse as we moved on. It rained for almost ½ an hour. Lew Frain and I biked on some real country roads into La Bastide d’ Armagnac (famous for it’s brandy supposedly the best in France) about 11:10. Stopped at the same cafe as 2 years ago and the same woman waited on us. Drank an orangina and ate a crepe with an egg, mushrooms and ham for 51F ($8.11). It got somewhat warmer as the sun came out in the afternoon. Caught up with Joe Dumin and Anne Stratmann in Villeneuve de Marsan and had a flat front tire. Lew Frain fixed Anne’s tire while I fixed mine which had a small stone like a shell imbedded in the tire. Continued on into St Sever including a steep 1 km climb into town. Found out we had to go back down to where we came in to the Relais du Pavilion Hotel at 3:15 after 77.1 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 639.2. Stowed bike and carried luggage to room 22. Had a Fischer’s Bier for 15F ($2.38). Showered. Anne arrived after being picked up. Had another Fischer Bier for 15F ($2.38). Walked to the Intermarche Store and bought a litre of orangina, 2 bags of nuts and cookies for 31F80 ($5.05). 8:00 supper of red and white wine, gespacho, bagette, fish, corn meal and apple tart. To bed at 10:06.

July 13, 1999   Tuesday   Bike St Sever to St Palais

Got up at 6:30, packed up and loaded van. 7:00 breakfast of orange juice, hot chocolate, croissants, bagette, butter and jam. Biked out at 8:00. Very hilly and threatening rain. Stopped in Brassempouy and went in a pretty little church and climbed the bell tower. Ran through a lot of rain and stopped briefly in a barn. Stopped in Orthez about noon and bought bagette, tomato, cheese, cucumber, onion, 2 pastries each an orangina and ate in a sidewalk cafe. My front tire was bulging and the cords were showing so I changed the tire and threw it away. Biked on and the hills got longer and steeper. Went through a deviation (DETOUR) where the hillside including the road caved in. Finally reached the top and met the vans coming back along the route. Anne and Kathleen got in the van but Lew and I biked on. Met Bob Benhoff in Sauveterre and biked into St Palais and the Midi Hotel room 12 at 4:00 after 49.8 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 689. Put bikes in the garage and carried luggage to our room. Showered and Anne came in with the van. Lew and I had 2 Artois beers for 24F ($3.81). 8:00 supper of red wine, bagette, vegetable soup, ham and tomato cheese squash, fries, lamb and Basque pie. Went to bed at 10:50.

July 14, 1999   Wednesday   Bike St Palais to Bayonne

Got up at 6:40 and packed up. 7:30 breakfast of orange juice, hot chocolate, bagette, butter and jam. Biked out at 8:20 and went the wrong way. Made an 8 mile loop and ended up back where we started at 9:30. Road very hilly with long and steep climbs through Basque country. Stopped in Hasparin for a tart for lunch. Watched a wreath laying ceremony at a monument for Bastille Day. Biked into Bayonne and the Basque Hotel about 2:10 after 42.4 miles. Trip cumulative mileage is 731.4. Showered. Drove to Biarritz with Fines and Frains. Returned and ate an Italian bonini, fries and a Fanta plus 2 pastries for supper. Drove to St Palais with Frains to get Bob Benhoff’s bag with tickets and passport in it. Had a terrible time getting out of Bayonne and worse getting back because of the Bastille Day fireworks. Drank a 5 cl beer for 18F ($2.86). To bed at 11:50.

July 15, 1999   Thursday   TGV Train Bayonne to Paris

The fireworks, music, people partying and street sweepers lasted all night right outside our window. Got very little sleep. Picked up a new and larger van at 8:30 and loaded it wth our bikes and luggage. Joe Dumin, Anne Stratmann and Anne McQueen took off at 10:00. We caught the 11:14 TGV train for Paris car 20, seat 62 with the Anders, Fines and Bob Benhoff for 420F ($66.29). Ate lunch of sandwich, nectarine, 2 orangina, cookies and strawberry tart which I bought and took on the train. Arrived in Paris at 4:05 and took Air France bus to DeGaulle Airport for 60F ($9.54) since we were a group of 11. Caught shuttle to Campanile de Roissy Hotel room 420 arriving at 5:40. Frains, Nelsons, Anders, Fines, Bob Benhoof and I walked to Trois Gourmands for dinner of vegetable salad, fish, potatoes, red wine, bagette and crepe with ice cream, whipped cream and Grand Maurier for 90F50 ($14.25). Went to bed at 10:45. Anne arrived at 12:24.

July 16, 1999   Friday   Tour Paris

Got up at 7:00. Unloaded van of bikes and luggage. Showered and shaved. Breakfast of ham, cheese, orange juice, milk, bagette, croissants, butter, jam and fruit salad. Took courtesy bus to DeGaulle Aerogare and subway 220f ($34.65) for two to Notre Dame Cathedral with the Frains, Nelsons and Dumins. Walked through Notre Dame and the Luxembourg Palace Gardens. Lunch at Hippocampus of 2 hot dogs, fries and beer plus Anne’s food for 128F ($20.23). Metro to the Catacombs with bones of 5 million people with Nelsons for 55F ($8.74). Met everyone at Notre Dame at 6:00. Dinner of onion soup, pailla, peach melba and red wine at La Petite Hostellerie for 198F ($31.19) for 2. Metro back to hotel but we took B5 IELO instead of B3 EVAN so we back tracked one station then to DeGaulle and courtesy bus to Campanile Hotel. Anne and I had a beer for 60F ($9.54). To bed at 11:40.

July 17, 1999   Saturday   Tour Paris

Got up at 7:08. Breakfast of orange juice, milk, croissants, bagette, butter, jam, ham, cheese, egg and fruit salad. Got bike boxes and packed up bikes. Showered and shaved. Headed to Paris with Frains and Dumins at 10:30 with 1 day Metro pass 220F ($34.55) for 2. Took 1 hour boat ride on Seine from Eiffel Tower with Frains for 100F ($15.89). Walked through the Louvre and Touleries Gardens. Metro to St Michel for lunch of vegetable salad and beer plus Anne’s food at the La Favorite for 154F ($24.34). Metro to Montmartre where Lew and I had a beer for 20F ($3.18) while Kathleen and Anne walked around. Walked by the Moulin Rouge and Pigalle then took the Metro to St Michel and St Germaine. Dinner of snails, salmon, rice, carrots, apple tart and red wine for 221F ($35.12). Metro to hotel arriving at 9:10.

July 18, 1999   Sunday   Fly Paris via Philadelphia to Baltimore

Got up about 6:00 and showered. Breakfast in hotel of orange juice, milk, croissants, bagette, butter, jam, ham, cheese, egg and fruit salad. Loaded van with bikes and luggage. Anne was not ready so we missed bus that everyone else except Pat Reynolds took to DeGaulle Airport. We caught the next bus that was jammed with people still waiting. Traffic was horrendous and we were the last stop for the bus so we were late arriving at the airport. We finally found Bob Benhoff holding our bikes and luggage in the crowded terminal. Bob still had his bike, Sue Etcheverry’s bike and Pat Reynolds bike who didn’t bother to get it but was checking in. Bob and I had a difficult time making our way through the jammed terminal with our carts loaded with bikes and luggage. Finally got on USAir flight 27 seats 10F and 10G departing at 11:20. As usual we were delayed but only about 20 minutes. Arrived in Philadelphia and picked up our bikes and luggage to go through immigation and customs then rechecked them. Boarded USAir flight 1996 seats 17F and 18A that departed at 3:30 for Baltimore Washington International. Arrived in the heat and was met by Bryan Nelson. We loaded the van and drove home arriving about 6:30. Very good trip!