Backpack Chilkoot Trail

August 14-24, 1998

Friday August 14, 1998

Got up at 3:08 and ran 5.1 miles. Breakfast of orange juice, toast with butter and raspberry jam and chocolate milk. Shaved and showered. Airport shuttle arrived at 4:43. A couple going to Maine was in the shuttle. Arrived at BWI airport at 5:10. Checked in and had to walk across the tarmac to the plane a Saab 340 with 3 seats across for a total of 33 passengers. We had 17 aboard plus 2 small children. Got to New York’s JFK airport on time on American Eagle flight number 5972. We were delayed an hour due to a technical problem with the plane American Airlines flight 6291. Arrived in Vancouver at 12:25. I rode 1st class during landing so I could get off quickly. Dan was waiting for me as the plane door opened. We ran through the airport and customs to make my last plane Canadian Air flight number 587 to Whitehorse. Talked to the people next to me and met Maxine Taylor in the seat in front of me who was also hiking with me. Shared cab to the Yukon Inn for C$9.35 ($6.08). Checked into room 252 and dropped my bags. Walked to CIBC bank and withdrew C$100 ($65) from an ATM. Was late for a meeting in Willard Kinzies room about 5:00. Walked to Taku Hotel for supper of barbecued ribs, baked potato, mixed vegetables, salad and beer for C$17.95 ($11.67). Went to the Frantic Follies C$16.50 ($10.73) which were pretty good. Back to the hotel about 10:30. Roomed with Dave Higgins and 8 year old son Andrew.

Saturday August 15, 1998

Got up at 6:05 and ran 41:40 through town on 4th Avenue to highway 1A along the Yukon River to the city campground, then back along 2nd Avenue and back to motel. Breakfast of 3 pancakes, ham and orange juice for C$10.50 with Peter Slaman, Wilf Coulson and Hilton Lyons. Locked bag in storage room then took backpack and daypack and vanned to Skagway about 150 miles. Stopped in Carcross at the end of Lake Bennett for lunch of cauliflower soup and corn beef sandwich with ice tea for C$10.20 plus C$2 tip. Walked around town. Very foggy going over White Pass into Skagway, Alaska. Drove to Dyea (di ee) about 9 miles and set up tents. Saw two bald eagles near the river driving out. Went back to Skagway and walked around taking pictures. Had an amber ale at the Gold Bar brew pub which Wilf Coulson paid for it. Met the whole gang of 20 for pizza and an Alaska Amber at the Northern Lights which Willard paid for them. Back to camp. Built a fire and had a meeting. To bed at 11:00 Yukon time (3 hours after Eastern Standard Time). Dan Miller and Lisa Corsolini had joined us in Skagway.

Sunday August 16, 1998

Got up at 6:42 and packed up. 7:45 breakfast of pancakes, sausage and orange juice. After much delay, A Group left camp and said goodbye to B Group. We hiked along a dirt road about a kilometer to the Chilkoot Trail trailhead.

Dan at the start of Chilkoot Trail near Skagway, Alaska...

We spent a lot of time taking pictures. We had a steep rocky climb that didn’t last too long. The trail then flattened out with an occasional little hill. We hiked along the Tiat River. We went past Finegan’s Point where it was boggy. We ate lunch of peanut butter crackers, cheese crackers and a Powerbar at Finnegan’s with a great view of a glacial ice flow. We caught Karen Hunter there who had started early. We continued on to Canyon City at 7.8 miles about 2:00 where we camped for the night. Many people coming through and camping. Three Italians, about 6 Germans and Americans. Set up tents, filtered water and hung food on a bear pole. Walked up to the old Canyon City site across a swinging bridge. We saw a huge boiler about 100 tons that was 50 horsepower and built in 1886. It was used to drive a cable lift to carry equipment and supplies to the top of the pass. Saw some remains of cabins, saws, stoves, tin cans, etc. Returned to camp for a total of 10 miles hiking. The skies were overcast and the temperature hovered around 60 degrees for perfect hiking conditions. We are a pretty compatible group of ten. 6:30 supper of lemonade, cauliflower soup, 2 hamburgers, chips and chocolate mouise.

Monday August 17, 1998

Got up at 6:43 and packed up. Overcast and cool with cloud or fog up the valley at a higher altitude. We’re camped about 500 feet of elevation and have to climb to 1000 feet at Sheep Camp about the same elevation gain as yesterday. 7:45 breakfast of hot chocolate, red juice, oatmeal, danish and sausage. Hiked out about 9:00. Trail very rugged with many short and steep ups and downs. My favorite part so far. Very beautiful. The Tiat River is getting smaller. At one point we crossed a high swinging bridge which is very difficult to walk on with a pack. After a rest stop, Willard told us to go on and reserve space at Sheep Camp. Ilene Weinstein, Wilf Coulson, Peter Slaman and Hilton Lyons went ahead with me and stopped at Pleasant Camp for pictures. Arrived at Sheep Camp at noon after 5 miles and set up. Wilf Coulson and I out by the river across a small creek. Ate lunch of peanut butter crackers, cheese crackers and a chocolate powerbar in the warming tent. Wilf stripped, shaved and washed in the the river of glacial run off water. Amazing! Peter and Hilton also stripped and bathed in the river. We had a light drizzle the last half hour coming into camp but now it seems to have lifted and cleared somewhat. It started raining again and has been raining lightly for several hours. Went to the warming tent with a fire in the stove. Two hikers came in and said there was a bear up the trail. Anita Dong, Ilene Weinstein, Wilf Coulson, Hilton Lyons and I walked up about half a mile. We walked past the bear and didn’t see it in the brush. Wilf spotted it and the black bear ran across the trail about 30 yards back and into the brush towards the river. 6:00 supper of onion soup, hot chocolate, tea, macaroni casserole, lemon pie (no crust). Cute young ranger came at 8:00 and talked about the gold rush with several large period pictures. Brushed teeth and hung brush, paste and food on bear pole. Talked to Maxine Taylor who is worried about tomorrow. She and Karen Hunter are by far the slowest hikers in the group. To bed at 9:30.

Tuesday August 18, 1998

Got up at 4:30 in the dark and packed up. Light rain most of the night and still sprinkling so everthing is wet at 51 degrees. 5:30 breakfast of oatmeal, hot chocolate, Bannock bread (heavy fried Indian bread) very tasty and bacon. Started hiking at 6:53. Willard asked me to lead and stop every 45 minutes. Wilf Coulson was with me. We couldn’t wait long enough after the first stop because we were getting cold. At one point I spotted some fresh bear tracks and Wilf heard some rustling in the bushes to our right and there was a bear there about 15-20 feet away. The scenery became Alpine and very beautiful. It was also quite steep, rocky and difficult. From the scales to the summit was very rocky, rough and bleak. Saw 6-8 varieties of delicate purple flowers of differing shades as well as flowers of other colors. Saw an incredible amount of tools, machinery, shoes and clothing. It was a tough climb up to the scales. The last mile was a scramble on all fours up a 45 degree wall of loose rock called the Golden Stairs. It had two major climbs and then a less severe notch with more climbing over rocks. After crossing a large snow pack (not the first), I reached the Canadian ranger station on the border and the warming hut at 11:00. Fog all the way to the summit. Wilf Coulson arrived at 11:15 followed by Anita Dong at 11:20. Wilf and I got separated somehow on the golden stairs. Peter Slaman showed up.

View from Chilkoot Pass...

I ate my lunch and then Wilf and I went back down without packs to half way down the first 45 degree incline and got Karen’s and Willard’s packs. The sun was shining brightly. We left the warming hut at 1:30 with Maxine, Ilene, Grace, Wilf and Erick the Austrian who had been hiking with us. We crossed several snow packs, rock fields and glacial streams in our 4 mile hike to Happy Camp. We could see several glacial flows coming over mountain ridges on both sides of the valley. The walk was incredibly beautiful with several pretty lakes. At one point I came around a big boulder and was confronted by a scolding prairie dog on his hind legs. At another point we saw a hillside covered with Ptarmigans, a partridge or grouse like bird. Got to camp at 5:00 after 10 miles of hiking. The camp is litterally covered with ripe blueberries. Set up tent and then set up a stove and started boiling water for hot chocolate, beef rice casserole, tomato soup and apple cobbler. Drank a little of Wilf’s brandy. It felt good. Hilton and I helped Anita cook and then we cleaned up. Maxine got in at 5:30 and Willard at 5:45. Willard went back for Karen and they showed up about 7:00. Everyone tired but elated over getting over the pass. 45 degrees. I am very proud of our group, especially Maxine and Karen who were in pain but really wanted it and gutted it out. To bed at 9:30.

Wednesday August 19, 1998

It had rained during the night. Some say it rained hard and quit at 4:00. I must have slept well because I only heard a sprinkle after I went to bed. Got up about 6:30 and packed up a wet dirty tent. 42 degrees. Hated to leave my great view site nested on the hillside among abundant blueberries. Cooking duty at 7:30. Breakfast of hot chocolate, oatmeal and hash browns with onions. Helicopter came and took two 55 gallon barrels of sewage. Quite a show. Finally got my load of pots and pans and hiked out at 9:35. We hiked about a quarter of a mile and then started up over the side of the canyon. Stopped and took off my jacket. Beautiful scenery with majestic mountains in every direction and clean mountain lakes along the trail. Cool but pleaseant hiking in a t-shirt and shorts. Crossed over to the left side of the lake at Deep Lake Camp where we stopped for a break. Peter, Wilf, Ilene and I took off for Lindeman City arriving at 12:45 after 5.5 miles.

Lake at Lindeman City...

The trail was strewn with tin cans, shoes, clothes, machinery, appliances and everything imaginable. We found a faded arrow sign with 1892 carved on it and CABIN 1 MI. We hiked along the top of a gorge wall for about a mile with a large waterfall at the top end of it. Set up camp next to the lake with a beautiful view. Ate lunch of peanut butter crackers, cheese crackers and a Clif bar with water. Peter, Wilf and I washed in the lake. It was so cold my ankles aiked but I felt better. We walked up to the cemetery with 11 graves and a great view. One headboard had Clarence and probably Gage carved on it. Walked to the interpretive tent which was very interesting. Talked to the lady ranger Roseann. Lounged in camp in the warm sun at 68 degrees. 6:00 supper of pea soup, lemonade, ham, mashed potatoes, peas, carrots and butterscotch pudding. Watched a beautiful sunset over the lake behind the mountains at 8:45 pm. The old couple from Vancouver Island showed up. They made it over the summit and stopped at 10:30 pm on the trail and camped before Happy Camp.

Thursday August 20, 1998

Slept fairly well but woke up several times. Good air flow through my tent but cold. Had to zip up my sleeping bag by morning to stay warm. Got up at 7:00 to 38 degrees. Karen Hunter claims she had frost on her tent. Big moose out in the lake in shallow water eating grass. Packed up. 8:00 breakfast of hot chocolate, oatmeal and ham on an English muffin. Hiked out at 9:30 with Wilf. Lots of short ups and downs to Bare Loon Camp. Trees marked everywhere by bears. Saw an otter with something in its mouth heading for the water. I have seen one candy wrapper and one cigarette filter in 33 miles of hiking. Filled out a questionaire for a young female graduate student ranger at Bare Loon. Got a peach cookie for it. Quite good. Anita, Wilf and I hiked out together. We had a bear warning for the 4 miles to Bennett Lake. We saw no sign of bear other than the tree markings. 1:00 lunch of cheese crackers, peanut butter crackers and a Powerbar. Peter and Hilton caught us as we finished eating and we hiked in together. Passed a trappers cabin. The last mile or so to Bennett was sandy like a beach making it hard hiking. Arrived at 2:00 and set up. Walked down to the Cheechako Inn on a barge in the lake past the railroad station and had 3 beers (6.1% alcohol) and a cheeseburger for C$25. Went back to the barge and bought a t-shirt for C$20. 5:30 happy hour and then supper of leek soup, chili and hot fruit salad. Walked back to the barge and then back to bed at 10:30.

Friday August 21, 1998

Got up at 7:50. Everyone was excited as a bear was in camp. Erick the Austrian was at the lake washing and when he turned around the bear was between him and his tent 30 yards away. The bear went through camp and swam the river that empties into the lake where we were camped. The Sourdough Bakery served pancakes using a starter from the 1898 gold rush and hot chocolate at 9:00. The two women with 4 girls and a boy were volunteers who worked a week at a time to raise funds for a Yukon College scholarship. The women and kids were very nice. I gave $5. Wilf, Peter, Hilton, Anita and I hiked a mile or so down the rail tracks towards Carcross to a construction area and back. Ate some good wild red raspberries. The train came in at 12:00 and Roseann the ranger lead us on a tour of Bennett City. It got cold, windy and started raining. Heinz, Brenda and Mike Slaughter from B Group came in and set up tents. The train left at 2:00. It was foggy and cold but we could see fairly well coming down from Whites Pass. The ride was fantastic. We arrived in Skagway about 5:00. The US postmaster general was there comemorating the last 32 cent stamp on the Chilkoot Trail. Checked into the Westmark Hotel room 351 with Wilf for $42.50 my share. Went to the Bonanza Bar for supper of clam chowder, blackened halibut sandwich with fries and an Alaskan Amber for $25.46. Went to Moe’s Bar until 2:30 for a Kokanee beer.

Saturday August 22, 1998

Got up at 7:30. Walked to the Sweet Tooth for breakfast of egg omellette with mushrooms, cheese and sausage, hash browns, orange juice and milk for $14. Watched the slide show with Ilene on the Chilkoot Trail at the visitors center. Lunch of cheeseburger, fries and an Alaska Amber at the Bonanza bar for $12. Took the 1:00 ferry $30 to Haines arriving at 2:05. Wilf and I rented mountain bikes $10 and biked about 20 miles to Chilkoot Lake in the rain. Saw salmon at the weir in the river. The last part of the road was dirt so we got coated in muddy water. Returned at 7:00. Showered in room 361. Mike Myers, a Toronto cab driver from B group, is my roommate. Happy hour in Willards room then to supper of taco, chili rolleno, enchilada, rice, refried beans and an Alaska Amber for $19.09. Walked to Moe’s Bar for 2 Alaska Ambers with 9 people. Went on to Bonanza Bar for another beer and then back to room at 12:00.

Sunday August 23, 1998

Got up at 7:30 and walked to breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, toast, hash browns, orange juice and milk for $12.49 at the Sweet Tooth with Maxine, Grace and Ilene. Loaded van and drove out of Skagway at 9:00 am Alaska time. It was foggy going over Whites Pass. Stopped at Log Cabin and again at Carcross. Ate a banana fudge ice cream cone $1.10. Checked into room 231 of the Yukon Inn in Whitehorse at noon. Mike Myers is again my roommate. Picked up stored bag and repacked everything. Showered. Bought a junior hockey bag at Canada Tire for C$22.46. Walked around town and took pictures. Watched a slide show on the Yukon at the visitors center. At 5:00 Yukon time we vanned out to the Takhini hot springs. Went swimming for C$3.50 plus C$.50 for a towel and C$.25 for a locker. Willard barbecued 2 large salmon about 18” each, with snacks, potato salad, beer, wine, salad and ice cream. Had a fire and received our Chilkoot Trail certificates. Great way to end a trip which I hate to see end. To bed at 11:00.

Monday August 24, 1998

Got up at 5:13. Taxi showed at at 5:50 for airport $7 (all the Canadian money I had) with Ilene Weinstein. Canadian Air flight 585 left at 7:00 am Yukon time from Whitehorse and arrived in Vancouver about 9:40. Hung around the airport and then said goodbye to Ilene whose plane for Chicago left at 11:50. My Canadian Air flight 6290 left at 1:10 and arrived in New York’s JFK Airport at 9:30 EST. American Eagle flight 6327 to Baltimore left at 10:45 and we were on the ground at 11:35. Anne was waiting and after paying $2 parking we drove home arriving at 12:38.

Trip Costs

Plane RT		$872.95
Trip		$1600.00
Charges		$195.68
US Cash		$95.75
Canadian Cash		$65.75
Film		$20.95
Pictures		$52.45
Total		$2969.55
	Statistics
Hiked	5	days
Hiked	36	miles
Backpack	50	pounds
Biked	20	miles
	Hiking Groups
A Group	10 people
	Willard Kinzie	Karen Hunter
	Grace Donald	Maxine Taylor
	Anita Dong	Ilene Weinstein
	Hilton Lyons 64	Peter Slaman
	Wilf Coulson	Dan McQueen
B Group	10 people
	Mike Slaughter	Mike Myers
	Heinz Nitschke	Brenda Eggett
	Dan Miller	Lisa Corsolini
	Steve Dorey	Teri Dorey
	Dave Higgins	Andrew Higgins 8
	Wildlife
Sitings	Black Bears	3
	Eagles	2
	Salmon	thousands
	Otter	1
	Prairie dogs	1
	Ptarmigans