HIKE MT KILIMANJARO & AFRICAN SAFARI

September 21 - October 8, 1998

Monday September 21, 1998 Fly Baltimore to New York

Got up at 5:46 and ran 5.1 miles. Anne and I left for Baltimore Washington International (BWI) Airport at 8:00. Boarded American Eagle flight number 4940 at 10:10 and landed at New York's JFK Airport about 11:10.

Sat next to Zusanna from Bratislavia, Slovakia. She has long blond braids, speaks English well and starts college on Monday. She worked at a Jewish elder camp in the Poconos for the summer. Her father is one of 4 police generals in Slovakia. She was an exchange student last year in Waldorf, Maryland.

Ate lunch of ham, salami and cheese sandwich and milk for $6.38 in the terminal. A vanilla yogurt cone cost an additional $2.80. I stored my big bag from 11:30 - 3:00 and it cost $6.50. Met Dan Ladue from Plattsburgh, NY. He has a years leave of absence (teacher?) and is traveling around the world (open plane ticket $2600). He is doing some hiking in Nepal, Tibet and other places. He asked me to Email him when I get home to tell him how I made out. He was interested in my Milford Track permits in March.

Boarded KLM flight number 642 at 6:45. Complimentary Grolsch beer and nice red wine with lasagna meal as well as headphones, blanket and pillow. Was served hot towels twice to freshen up. Pretty good service and airline.

Tuesday September 22,1998 Fly New York-Amsterdam-Kilimanjaro

Landed at Amsterdam's Schipol Airport at 6:00 and on time. Stopped at McDonalds for milk ($1.24) to take my 1st diamox pill. Met Willard and most of the group at 8:00 in Schipol. KLM flight number 569 on a MD11 was delayed about 2 hours because we were overbooked by 39 people.

Finally took off at 12:30. Flew over Europe, Libya, Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, and Tanzania. Landed at Kilimanjaro International Airport about 9:25. Flew over the Sahara desert which was unbelievable, a tan color and featureless. There were dune lines stretching across it all the same with no change and nothing of distinction to see. Rode next to a couple from Dar es Salaam. He is of Indian origin and she black. Very nice people. He gave me a good run down on Tanzania.

The airport was dim with few lights and teaming with black people. I went through a health inspection then immigration and finally customs. I had some fruit which they didn't care about. We loaded into 3 vans with our luggage so we were really packed in. Philemon was our driver. Martin was another driver. Drove along asphalt roads which were not too bad for 1 1/2 hours to the Kibo (Kee bow) Hotel. Every village had big speed bumps. Saw many herds of cattle being driven on the road by many people. Lots of bananas along the road. Many people out along the road even in the dark. Buildings and such remind me of Baja Mexico. The last mile or 2 to the Kibo Hotel is dirt and really bad.

Met Peter A. Mato, our guide and the porters at 12:00 midnight. They sang a Kilimanjaro song to us. I'm rooming with Doug Eckel. The hotel is made of concrete and pretty sparse on the inside. Doug talked for some time while having a Scotch as we wound down. Went to bed about 1:30 am.

Wednesday September 23, 1998 Hike Marangu Gate to Mandara Hut

Got up at 7:18. Shaved and cold showered. 8:30 breakfast of watermelon, papaya, banana (about 3" long), scrambled egg and toast. Changed $20 for 12,000 shillingi, put money, passport and plane tickets in hotel safe. Checked safari clothes in hotel storage. Was led by a young man through town to see Mt Kilimanjaro which was partially covered in clouds. Paid him 2000 shillingi. He was a real hustler. Meeting of the whole group.

We left about 11:30 in 3 vans, with Martin the driver of our van, for the 6 km drive up to the park gate. Each of us logged in the park log. Bag lunch of peanut butter jelly sandwich, banana, passion fruit, cheese and orange drink. Took pictures of park sign and our whole group.

We set off at 1:10. The trail is mostly mud and always up. Rain forest with much underbrush. Saw several monkeys in the trees. In an open spot with direct sun it reached 90 degrees (32 celsius). Slowly it clouded over with the temperature dropping to 68 degrees to 63 degrees to 57 degrees. The native tribe around Mt Kilimanjaro are called Chaiga and speak Chaiga a variation of Swahili. The national language is Swahili. Jambo means hello and all the Africans say jambo as they pass. Twendy means "let's go". Reached Mandara Hut at 8858' in 4:53 or about 6:00 pm.

We picked up our bag that the porters carried to our hut which is the biggest. The downstairs is the dining hall for the entire camp. We're sleeping in the loft of the A frame. There are 20 of us sleeping head to toe and 2 high on each side. We have foam pillows and mattresses. Went to the bathroom which is a tread for the feet and a hole in the floor. It takes some practice to hit the hole. Peter A Mato is our guide and Anton an assistant that normally leads to set the pace. Had hot chocolate, popcorn and peanuts for a snack. Our cooks cooked supper of steak, potatoes, rice, vegetable sauce, cabbage and a fruit dessert. It is raining lightly and cloudy outside. A few already have diarrhea or are vomiting.

Thursday September 24, 1998 Hike Mandara Hut to Horombo Hut

Got up twice in the rain during the night. We had a light rain all night. Slept fairly well with 19 others in the loft. We had good air through an open window. Got up at 6:22 and took pictures. 7:30 breakfast of papaya, banana, rolled oats, toast, egg and sausage. 68 degrees (20 celsius).

Hiked out at 8:30. Greasy mud on the trail as we continued through dense rain forest. Finally came out to scrub brush and walked up to Mauni Crater and a view of Kilimanjaro. It was covered with clouds. We walked around the rim of the crater and could see a lake near Mombasa on the Kenyan border. It finally cleared for a few shots of Kilimanjaro and Mt Mawenzi. 63 degrees (17 celsius). The sun and clouds alternated. We could see the clouds coming quickly and we would get socked in for 10 minutes then back in the sun. Some great views. Saw a pretty black bird with a green stripe on his head and a long tail. More people got sick.

Lunch of peanut butter sandwich, cookies, chocolate bar, egg and orange drink. Passed sign at 11,500'. Came over a rise and could see Horombo Hut with great views of Kilimanjaro and Mawenzi. Got in at 4:38 after 9.3 miles. 6:30 hot chocolate, popcorn and peanuts.

I am in hut #42 with Doug Eckel,

There was an old geologist named Doug
Who can't be dismissed with a shrug
His stories are engaging
Sometimes though enraging
For they can affect you like an hallucinatory drug.
by Gerald Towgood

Dennis, Gerald and Sheila Towgood and Barbara Smith. Washed up with warm water. 7:30 supper of soup, pasta with vegetable sauce, green beans, spinach, bread, pineapple and Milo (hot chocolate).

The stars are unbelievably bright and close at altitude and no cloud or pollution. I can't find anything I recognize except for the constellation Orion. The milky way is very pronounced. City of Moshi is lit up below us and very pretty. To bed at 9:00. La la salaama - sleep well. We have 52 staff supporting 24 hikers. There are 4 guides, porters, cooks and table waiters. They bring us bowls of hot water when we get in each day and first thing in the morning with soap. They also brought us tea in bed this morning. Our hut has six people with bunks two high , foam matresses and pillows. Running water at Mandara and Horombo Huts.

Friday September 25, 1998 Hike to Zebra Rock and back

Slept pretty well but I had to get up to go to the bathroom. Stars are great and so close and bright. It was really cold and the water was frozen this morning. Got up at 7:00 am which is midnight at home (7 hours difference). Have a little sunburn on my neck so I'm covering up and using sunscreen. Took pictures of Mt Mawenzi and Mt Kilimanjaro and the clouds below us. 8:30 breakfast of watermelon, rolled oats, bacon, french toast (crusty and not sweet) and chocolate milk.

Tibor Krantz and I walked up over the ridge to see the river for about 3 km. A lot of eagle around that are black with a white patch on the back of the head. 12:30 lunch of beef stew, tortillas and hot chocolate. Very good.

2:00 walked up 800 vertical feet to over 13,000' to Zebra Rock and back to Horombo Hut. 1 1/2 hours up and 35 minutes down about 4 miles round trip. The birds around camp are riven white necked eagles. The bird we saw yesterday was a bronze sunbird.

6:30 supper of soup, rice, chicken and vegetables, bread, butter and hot chocolate. To bed at 8:10. It is Gerald Towgood's 60th birthday.

There was a bard named Gerald
A gentleman of note and herald
He was quick to turn a verse
Every single one is terse
That's how he was when he turned 60 years auld.
by Dan McQueen

Saturday September 26, 1998 Hike Horombo Hut to Kibo Hut

God Bless and Anton woke us up at 6:18 with a tap on the door and a cup of hot tea in bed. Packed up and went to 6:30 breakfast of hot chocolate, watermelon, papaya, rolled oats with honey, bacon (American style) and scrambled eggs. Ingrid Hahn and Betty Nykolaychuk stayed behind as we started at 8:30.

The trail is pretty steep at the beginning but leveled out some until we reached Kibo (Kee bow) Hut where it got steep again. The trail was mostly dust with stretches of rocks when we ascended the ridges. The pace was very slow to help the acclimation process. We passed from sparse vegetation to no vegetation and it got colder mostly because the wind picked up. It was 41 degrees about 7:20 and 75 degrees on the trail about 9:00, then 70 degrees, then 63 degrees at lunch at 14,500'. We were bundled up. Lunch was a peanut butter, jelly and tuna fish sandwich, hard boiled egg, chocolate bar and orange drink. Some of us saw some scat next to the trail that was cylindrical about 1.5 inches in diameter, about 8-10 inches long and about 4 pieces. Peter Mato thinks it was an eland (elk) but it doesn't look big enough to drop that big of a load. My guess is that it was yeti. We could see the trail to Gilman's Point most of the day. It looks like it is almost vertical but I seem to recall that it is a 35 percent grade.

Arrived at Kibo Hut at 15,520' (4750m) at 3:03 after about 6.5 hours. The afternoon clouds started coming in around noon but they aren't as thick as further down the mountain. Packed my daypack for the ascent and set out all my clothes that I was going to wear. 4:00 snacks of hot chocolate (Milo), popcorn and peanuts. 5:30 supper of elbow noodle, hamburger hash, bread, butter and chicken noodle soup. It is Willard's birthday and Gerald Towgood's the day before so we had a celebration with cake cards and gifts. Peter Mato led about 15 porters singing in swahili for about 10 minutes. Sarjit Grewal translated the song which was about an honorary or respected old man (baboo) that was adopted into their family. Everyone went to bed at 7:30 with 12 in our room of 2 high bunk beds. I must have slept some because it didn't seem like 3.5 hours had passed when they woke us up at 11:00 pm. Had tea and cookies. Put lime juice in one bottle of water. Peter said it would help if you felt nauseous.

Sunday September 27, 1998 Uhuru Summit

At 12:10 am we started up Mt Kilimanjaro. Sally Livingstone (sick), Barbara Smith, Bob Cripe and Jana Krejcova were all having problems and stayed behind. The stars are magnificent. I recognize Orion but nothing else not even the big dipper. I saw several shooting stars. I saw one light that was green, red and white that seemed to move and then be stationary. Then it disappeared. Eighteen of 22 remaining started up the mountain. It was steep immediately and continued to get steeper. Peter Mato was leading and singing to himself in Swahili mixed with hymns in English. I fervantly prayed for help and that the altitude would not affect me. The trail consisted of sand and gravel but very thin that gradually got deeper to 4-6" about half way up. It was 41 degrees in the hut. Twenty eight degrees at the bottom but dropped to 23 degrees. The wind came up for 10-15 minutes then died down again. This happened 3-4 times on the ascent. Most people were wearing headlamps and all you could see were the heels of the person in front of you. You could see the headlamps strung out above and below on the mountain, a pretty but eerie and surreal scene.

We took a break after 1500' elevation gain at Hans Meyer cave the half way point to Gilman's Point. The plan was to split into 2 groups at the cave but instead Peter decided to keep us together. Dennis was worried that our slow progress would get us to Gilman's Point too late to continue on to Uhuru Peak. I got very concerned as well and finally agreed with Dennis that we would go on to Uhuru no matter what time we reached Gilman's Point. Doug Eckel turned back, then Magali Vrilland and then Joe Slaney at 17,000'.

There is a fine Newfie named Joe
Who was climbing Kili ever so slow
On his way up there
There wasn't enough air
And his lungs said hey this is no go.
by Gerald Towgood

Finally Sarjit Grewal turned back somewhere above the cave at 17,500'.

There was a traveler named Sarj
Who in our van seemed in charge
He sent out commands
That sounded like demands
But really his heart was warm and large.
by Gerald Towgood

We stayed together most of the way to Gilman's Point but eventually separated. The lead group was led by Anton and included Willard Kinzie, Francis Vrilland, Tibor Krantz, Dan McQueen, Dennis Towgood with Gerald and Sheila Towgood arriving at Gilman's Point at 7:15.

There was a family called Towgood
Who generally were up to no good
But when it came to face
They would not lose the race
So up Kilimanjaro they went
Their bodies completely spent
But the summit they did gain
And this is their claim to fame
by Doggerel Doug Eckel

The top was very rocky. About 100 feet from Gilman's Point we passed a young English woman sitting dejectedly on a rock saying: "This is the worst day of my life". I stopped to encourage her saying she had the mountain beat, to take her time and rest but get to the top and it would be the best day of her life. She got to the top, with considerable help from her 2 guides, several minutes after us. A strong emotion welled up inside of me that I couldn't control and I cried for the first time in a long time.

Gilman's Point is part of the crater rim that forms the peak of Kilimanjaro. Anton estimated 3.5 - 4 hours for the round trip to Uhuru Peak and back to Gilman's Point. This may have discouraged some from continuing. Before the remaining 7 arrived, Anton led Dennis Towgood and Dan McQueen to Uhuru (means freedom in Swahili) Peak at 19,340 feet where it was 30 degrees (-1 celsius) and strong winds.

There are a couple of sportsmen named Den and Dan
Who scaled the Kili slopes so fast they nearly ran
Uhuru was there in sight
So they mustered all their might
And scaled the summit with Anton in a forty minute span.
by Gerald Towgood

We left at 7:35 and took about one hour and 15 minutes to get there. About 3/4 of the trail was over ice and snow. There were vast fields of ice blades about 18-24" high and several feet long. Anton really hustled us along many times almost running. We took several photographs and worked on equipment for about 20 minutes.

We hustled back to Gilman's Point in 45 minutes arriving just before 10:00 am. On the return we crossed several narrow packed ice tracks of 15-30 feet long that were getting wet from melting. While we were gone Peter Mato lead Betty Clifford,

There was a hiker named Betty
Who had wanted to go to Serengetti
Instead she climbed Mount Kili
More than just a little hilly
And on the way she was met by the yeti
by Gerald Towgood

Barbara Wright, Dagmar Duncan, Parkash Grewal, Jim Muir, Debra Cripe and Bob McIntyre to Gilman's Point.

There was a TV weatherman named Bobby
Who we all met in the Kibo Hotel lobby
On the way to the top
He made many a stop
To help the ladies 'cause that's his hobby
by Gerald Towgood

Dennis and I stopped at Gilman's Point and shed some clothes and took on some water. We virtually ran down the mountain sort of skiing in the scree and passing most of our people from both groups. I got back to Kibo Hut at 11:15. My muscles were programmed for the steep slope and I had difficulty standing straight or walking on flat ground. I was cold and shivering because I was completely out of fuel. We had lunch of beef stew and hot chocolate at about 12:45.

We split the group and 12 of us left at 1:35 with a porter. We arrived at Horombo at 4:36 after 21.1 miles (34 km) of hiking. Doug gave me a Safari beer as we entered camp which was my first in Africa and was it ever great. Washed up. Barbara Smith, Doug Eckel, Dennis Towgood, Gerald and Sheila Towgood and I are sharing Hut #42 again. Supper is soup, fried chicken, potatoes, green beans, peas, rice and Milo (hot chocolate). I walked up to the caretakers hut with Anton and bought him 2 Safari beers $4 for taking us to Uhuru. A lot of tired bodies went to bed at 8:30.

Monday September 28, 1998 Hike down and on to Arusha

Was awakened at 6:15 with a tap on the door and hot tea served in bed. Went to 7:30 breakfast of watermelon, cantaloupe, rolled oats, toast with jelly and hot chocolate.

Started hiking down at 8:30. It was easy hiking all downhill and everyone feeling good. Entered the rainforest again and stopped at Mandara Hut about 12:30 for lunch of fried bread, macaroni salad and hot chocolate. Had a Kilimanjaro beer also very good.

About 2:30 we hiked on down to Marangu Gate arriving about 5:30 after 14.3 miles and signed out of the park. Had a little ceremony for the staff who sang 3-4 songs for us. Willard presented each porter with $20 (about equal to his salary), the kitchen help got $25 each, the 3 assistant guides got $60 each and Peter got $200 from all of us.

Got our luggage and loaded into 3 vans with Martin our driver again. Stopped at the Kibo Hotel in Marangu and picked up my other bag and valuables. Drove 2 hours and 15 minutes to the Mt Meru Novetel Hotel room 508 with Doug Eckel my roommate. Jean Towgood was waiting and joined the group again. Picked up our luggage and had a nice buffet dinner with a Safari beer at 10:00 pm. Received our certificates for climbing the mountain from Peter. Jim Muir delivered a nice Limerick about Willard and then one about our group.

There is an old codger named Jim
Who conjures up conundrums in a whim
For language is his game
Which has brought him fame
And also it has put him way out on a limb.
by Gerald Towgood

Headed for the showers and bed about 1:00 am.

Tuesday September 29, 1998 Lake Manyara

Got up at 6:10 and shaved. Reorganized my gear into 2 bags for the safari part of the trip. The bag with the hiking gear is stored in the hotel until we get back. 7:30 breakfast of orange juice, omelette, watermelon, papaya, honeydew, croissants and crepes with Doug, Willard, Barbara Wright, Bob and Debra Cripe. Cool, overcast and occasional light rain. Tibor lost his passport and money so we went around Arusha trying to straighten it out. Stopped and changed $30 for 20,000 Tanzanian shillingi. Bought post cards and stamps in the post office.

Drove through Arusha and the squalor was awful. Out on the highway the countryside is pretty and different than anything I have seen. The hills stand alone and are perfectly shaped like conical piles of sand. The highway is 2 wide lanes and in very good condition. There are Masai everywhere driving large herds of cattle, goats and burros. The Masai are tall, thin and wear robes or kilts of bright red plaid. The boys are circumcised when they become men and wear black robes with their faces painted with a white design each unique.

We stopped for a box lunch of cheese sandwich, tomato sandwich, fried chicken, carrot and cucumber sticks, cake and coke. Many people in the country use single speed bicycles made in China and very sturdy. They cost about 11,000 shillingi (about $18.33). They use them like trucks. I saw one man with a log about 12' long and 6-8" in diameter on the back rack of his bike. Some people carried bundles of sticks or cane so large that you couldn't see the rider from the rear. Drove several miles down a rough dirt road to Lake Manyara. Saw thousands of large termite or ant hills and large boaban trees. Saw dozens of huge storks in a tree in Karatu.

Entered Lake Manyara Park where we saw baboons, mongoose, jackal, large monitor lizard, monkeys, giraffes, zebra, wildebeest, elephants, impala, wart hogs, hornbills and countless other birds. At one point a large bull elephant about 45 and weighing about 7000 pounds walked by our van. He had four females and many young including a small baby. We watched them for 1/2 an hour. Soon after 200-300 baboons came down the path and passed the van on all sides.

We drove out of the park and up the cliff to the Lake Manyara Lodge overlooking the lake from the cliff edge. The road into the lodge was in terrible shape worse than the fire roads in our forests. The lodge is really quaint with beamed ceilings and mosquito netting over the beds. The dinner at 7:30 was a buffet with a Safari beer for 2000 shillingi. This place is beautiful and straight out of a Hemingway novel. There is a 6" tropical gecko on our wall. There is mosquito netting over the beds. The electricity goes off at 11:00 pm until 7:00 am. Went to bed at 11:00.

Wednesday September 30, 1998 Masai Village

Up at 6:00 and took a cold shower. Photographed the lake and escarpment from my room and then the grounds. Walked out my door and there was a huge jacaranda tree in full purple bloom as well as a family of baboons playing in a tree. Buffet breakfast of Spanish omelette, croissant, french toast and lemon drink.

Departed in vans at 9:00 am. I'm in van #2 with Paulo driving and Willard, Barbara Wright, Jim, Sally, Tibor, Jana and Doug. Drove all morning on dirt roads to Olduvai Gorge arriving about 1:00. Stopped in Karatu en route for gas at 300 shillingi per litre ($.50 per litre or $1.91 per US gallon). Had a box lunch of cheese sandwich, cucumber and carrot sticks, boiled egg, keish, cake, chocolate bar, orange drink and water at the gorge.

Stopped at a Masai village and for 6000 shillingi we could take all pictures we wanted. All Masai wear a bright red plaid robe. The moroni wear black and paint designs in white on their faces when they are circumcised and become men. A village consists of 6-10 huts within a circle thorn bush fence. The huts are either elliptical domes of sticks with cow dung plastered over the sticks or circular with a pointed thatched roof. Masai eat only animal blood mixed with milk and meat. They are shepherds and always have large herds of cows and goats. The men danced and chanted an eerie sound something like the aborigines in Australia.

Drove back to Ngorangora Crater where we saw elephants, ostrich, wildebeest, 2 cheetah, 2 black rhinos plus a baby, cape buffalo, a sleeping lion, zebra, eland, antelope, wart hog, jackals, etc.

Arrived at the Sopa Lodge about 6:30. Checked into room 6 which is very nice. Showered heavy dust off. Went to the bar for a Safari beer for 1800 shillingi ($3). Supper at 7:40 of soup, samosas, rice and dessert. Washed some clothes in the sink and went to bed at 11:00.

Thursday October 1, 1998 Ngorangora Crater

Got up at 6:10 and shaved. Went to 7:10 breakfast of omelette, potato, tomato, sausage, croissant and fruit salad. The crater is very misty and it is cool outside probably around 50 degrees. The beamed ceiling in the dining room is 65 feet high. There is a Gideon bible on the table in the room.

Left the lodge at 9:00 and drove into the crater floor 2000' below the rim. We came across a lion next to the road about 30' from the van. He kept moving giving us different poses and finally got up and walked a short distance to relieve himself on a bush. We saw a hippo laying next to a stream and then I counted 13 in a stream sleeping in the mud. One walked around for good pictures.

Drove down to the lake and saw thousands of pink flamingos on Lake Mandari. On the way to lunch we saw the zebra herd stampeding. They were followed by a pack of about 15 hyenas. The hyenas took down a gazelle and were fighting over it as they ate. You could hear the bones break and crunch as they ate. Also got some great close-ups of 2 ostriches taking a dust bath.

Ate lunch about 1:00 down by a pool with 3 hippos swimming in it. Lunch was fried chicken, roll, cucumber salad, tomato and pepper salad, cheese wedge, fruit salad and chocolate bar.

After lunch we saw several birds, buffalo, jackals, ostriches, etc. We headed in early arriving at the lodge about 5:00. Showered. Sat in lounge with a big group and had 2 Safari beers for 1800 shillingi each. 7:20 dinner with Joe and Betty, Gerald and Sheila, Sarjit and Parkash and Doug. Ate ravioli, cream of vegetable soup, beef kabob, potato and vegetable with rice pudding. Went to be at 9:45.

Friday October 2, 1998 Drive to Nairobi, Kenya

Got up at 6:00. 7:00 breakfast of an omelette, croissant, roll, orange juice, sausage and potato.

Departed at 7:40 back the way we came over the dirt washboard roads to the highway about 10:30. Stopped for pictures of some moroni boys. Got into Arusha about 11:45 for lunch at the Shanghai Restaurant. Mailed post cards.

Drove north to the Kenyan border in about 1 1/2 hours. The border was a scene of disorder and chaos. We had to fill out a card and have our passports stamped to exit Tanzania. Same procedure for entering Kenya. Stopped at a rest stop just into Kenya. I heard my name and turned to see Les Avery from Denver, Colorado. We had a brief and excited reunion. Les and I have biked all over the west US, Canada and Alaska.

Boarded a bus plus a van and drove to Nairobi 4:30 to 7:15. It rained lightly as we entered Nairobi. Checked into room 830 of the 680 Hotel on Kenyatta Boulevard. Met at 8:00 and decided to eat in the hotel restaurant. Supper of Hungarian goulash, chicken curry, rice and 2 Tusker beers for 565 shillingi ($10.83). The beer is good to my surprise. Went to bed at 11:00.

Saturday October 3, 1998 Naro Moru River Lodge

Got up at 5:45, prepared to shave and shower but there was no water. The official explanation was that all water had been diverted to an agricultural show. Lesson learned. 7:00 breakfast of 3 eggs, croissant, sausage and passion fruit juice. Paid for my dinner of last night and snuck up to my room for a quick shower at 7:30 (it was supposed to have been turned on again at 7:00) but the water was still off.

Left at 8:00 and stopped within a block and bought 1.5 litre bottle of water for 40 shillingi ($.70). Drove out of the city and into the countryside. It is hilly with streams so the farms are green and prosperous looking. Saw a lot of coffee, bananas, maize (white), sugar cane, pineapples and numerous other crops. We saw massive greenhouses growing roses for export to Europe. We didn't see tea (a few days later) because it grows on the upper mountain slopes but it is Kenya's leading source of foreign exchange after tourism. The roads in Kenya are pretty good (cancel this statement) with dual lanes in the city and reasonably wide 2 lane roads in the country. However, the roads are broken up every so often with huge potholes that are deep and cover most of the road. There are power lines, a railroad and phone lines everywhere unlike Tanzania. The houses are more substantial and maintained better than in Tanzania. You see a lot of Chinese single speed bicycles that are used for transportation and hauling things. I've seen everything on the back of a bike from a water container to a person to a huge log to a bundle of firewood. The Tanzanians are gentler and more anxious to please and therefore much more pleasant. The Kenyan and Tanzanian cities are examples of chaos with masses of people everywhere and traffic entangled causing very bad pollution.

We stopped in Karatim to exchange money at a Barclays Bank. The locals kept jumping in front of the line. Exchanged $40 but pooled my money with Doug so we paid the 100 shillingi fee only once. The rate was 57.4 shillingi per dollar so I netted 2242 shillingi for my $40. They had to run each bill through a machine twice, once for each side to check for counterfeit money.

Arrived at Naro Moru River Lodge cabin 29 about 12:15. The lodge is beautiful with a series of 3 unit cottages along a pretty and clean stream. It is nicely landscaped as all of our lodges have been with beautiful flowers and numerous colorful birds. There is a school of art students spread out over the grounds painting every conceivable scene. Ate lunch of fish, green peppers, mixed vegetables, maize, beef, soup, hot tomato salad, Tusker beer for 120 shillingi ($2.09) plus 30 shillingi tip, fruit salad and some pastries and chocolate mousse. Shaved, showered and did some laundry in the sink. A short rain storm passed. A bellhop came in and lit a fire in the fireplace while a maid turned down the beds.

Walked up to dinner by the swimming pool at 7:00 and had 2 Tusker beers for 240 shillingi ($4.18) plus 30 shillingi tip. 7:30 dinner buffet that was very good. Went to bed at 9:45.

Sunday October 4, 1998 Equator Crossing & Camping in Samburu

Today is daughter Kara's 27th birthday. Got up at 5:53. At 6:10 I looked out the window and saw Mt Kenya brightly lit with fiery red clouds beyond it as a backdrop. 7:30 breakfast of onion, tomato, green pepper, chili pepper and cheese omelette, sausage, french toast, crepe, fruit salad and passion fruit juice.

Left about 8:15. Crossed the equator at Nanyuki. William did a demonstration showing water turning clockwise 20 meters north of the equator, counter clockwise 20 meters south of the equator and straight down right on the equator. Received a certificate 200 shillingi ($3.48) for crossing the equator.

Drove into Samburu Park on an atrocious road. Began seeing animals including many camels, Grant gazelles, oryx, giraffes and giraffe antelopes. We came across a large herd of female and young elephants that were separated by the road (track). A very large female started screaming at us and made a couple false charges. The females surrounded the babies in a defensive circle with heads pointing out. Finally all the elephants crossed the road and went on.

Drove through some bush and arrived in camp on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River about 12:30. Doug and I are in tent #5. There are 12 two person tents with a shower and pit toilet behind each tent. There is a large dining tent and several tents for the 13 staff, 3 guides and army guards. 2 guards with AK47 rifles on slings are on duty day and night.

About 1:30 lunch of talapia fish, avocado soup, french fries, mixed vegetables, fruit salad with cream and lemonade. Bought a cold Tusker beer for 80 shillingi ($1.39) and drank it while I wrote my log. 2 native shepherd boys with red togas are across the river with sheep, goats and donkeys. One is playing a flute. A monkey just walked by.

At 4:00 we went out in the vans. We saw hundreds of impalas, dics dics, guinea hens, etc. Saw a crocodile on the river bank. Saw giraffes and the elephants again. One of the other vans got stuck in the sand and we all helped get it out. Jim our guide spotted a leopard in a tree and we got right below him. At one point, he moved to the other side of the tree. His tail and a couple of legs were hanging down. On the way back to camp, a cheetah walked down the path in front of us and we pulled up beside him. He was within 10 or 20 feet.

We got in at 6:30 and it is already getting dark. Drank a couple of Tusker beers at 80 shillingi ($1.39) each by the fire on the river bank. Full moon coming up. 7:30 supper of artichokes, soup, chicken, potato, mixed vegetable, peppers, mushrooms, onions and cake. Great day. Went to bed at 9:30.

Monday October 5, 1998 Camping with the Animals

Woke up at 6:00 with a cup of tea and cookies in bed. Not much game this morning but we did see some large crocodiles , giraffes up very close, water bucks, impalas, numerous birds and the large herd of elephants about 1/4 mile downriver from camp. Stopped at the Samburu Lodge briefly for people to buy more film. Got back to camp about 11:00.

Brunch of eggs, potatoes, sausage, pork chop, mixed salad, lemonade and bread. Talked to Dennis by the river for quite a while. Baboons passed behind our tents. It is warm but not too bad in the shade with a slight breeze. We are at 2880'. Masai shepherd across the river cupped his hands and drank muddy river water. Gerald bought me a .5 litre Tusker beer. At 3:15 we had open face cheese and tomato sandwich, cookies and tea.

Off at 3:45 to Samburu Village which took an hour. The chief at 34 gave us a tour. He is chief of 10 villages and about 1750 people. They are very poor with stick huts covered with cow dung and anything else they can find. They sleep on the ground on a cow hide and cook over a small fire between two stones on the ground floor of the hut. Their diet consists of milk and blood mixed and meat. Their ears are pierced at the top and the lobes have a big circle of flesh about an inch in diameter. We talked to the teacher and our group donated 3460 shillingi ($60.28) to the school. They are all Catholic.

Drove back to camp for 2 Tusker beers (160 shillingi) around the campfire. 7:30 supper of beef stew, potato, yam, fried cabbage, pumpkin soup, bread, maize and pineapple cobbler. Went to bed at 9:30. Full moon is beautiful but makes it hard to sleep. There are lanterns in front and back of every other tent. We have gaz lanterns on the table in each tent.

Tuesday October 6, 1998 Lake Nakuru

At 6:00 woke up to tea and cookies. Washed up. 6:30 breakfast of eggs, sausage, toast, fruit juice and grapefruit (skins about 3/8 of an inch thick).

Drove off about 7:00 through Samburu Park and Isiolo Reserve. The road is very rough and rutted. Exiting the reserve at Isiolo we had to close the windows as we were swarmed by vendors of carvings, necklaces, carved masks and numerous other trinkets. Stopped for gas that was 39 shillingi per litre ($.679 per litre or $2.57 per gallon). Retraced our route of a couple of days ago in the opposite direction to Nora Moru where we turned onto a D route that was in very bad shape. A van from Abercrombie and Kent got stuck in the mud. We made it through a huge water hole without any trouble. Stopped at Thomson's Falls 81 meters high for a break and photos. Crossed the equator 3 times en route.

Arrived at the Lake Nakuru Lodge at about 2:45. Lunch of lamb chops, beef stew, fish cake, rice, potatoes, green squash, custard, banana tart, cream puff, fruit salad and a Tusker Premium beer for 120 shillingi ($2.09) plus 40 shillingi tip. Checked into Suite #1 the White Rhino suite which consisted of 2 large circular rooms about 22' in diameter and a very large bathroom. Went for a refreshing dip in the pool. Prepared to leave for a drive through the game park at 4:30 but it was raining.

We left at 4:45 in a light rain that eventually stopped. Saw lots of cape buffalo, zebra, gazelle, water buck etc. Saw a large snake in the road which James identified as a cobra but I doubt that. The snake is probably 3-4 feet long and 4-5 inches in diameter. It looks like a puff adder (very poisonous) in my book. Saw 2 white (short nosed) rhinos that were too far for pictures. Drove on by the lake shore and saw the pink flamingos and a large flock of white pelicans. Just below and within site of our lodge (200-300 hundred yards) we saw 2 lions that walked right past our van.

Showered. 7:30 supper of fish, cucumber soup, vegetable and meat samosas, carrots, cauliflower, rice, fruit salad, chocolate cake, lemon pudding and 2 Tusker beers at 100 shillingi ($1.74) each. Jim, Sally, Willard, Barbara Wright, Betty N., Bob & Debra Cripe

There is a great couple named Cripe
Who are never known to wine or gripe
They happily accept
The basic concept
To do otherwise doesn't get you down the pipe
by Gerald Towgood

and Dennis came back to our suite for a drink after dinner. Went to bed at 10:30.

Wednesday October 7, 1998 Nairobi and Carnivores

Got up at 5:30 and shaved. 6:30 breakfast of omelette, sausage, hushpuppies, fruit salad and passion fruit juice.

7:22 departed lodge for the park. Saw waterbuck, cape buffalo, impala, giraffe, etc. Suddenly there was a leopard walking next to the vans. Bob Cripe spotted a white rhino with her young on the lake shore. We drove down to them for some great closeup shots. We drove by the pink flamingos and pelicans. We drove on around the lake shore on the way out of the park where we saw the remains of a gazelle, the results of a leopard kill, hanging from a tree.

Exited the park and headed down the highway for Nairobi. It is getting warm. Climbed out of the Great Rift Valley and across the plains to Nairobi arriving at the 680 Hotel about 12:30. Checked into room 608. Many of us walked to the market to buy souvenirs. The market has a high vaulted ceiling with a 2nd floor balcony all around. There are a jumble of vendor stalls and shops everywhere. Pretty chaotic but interesting. About 10 of us walked to the Minar Indian Restaurant for 2 meat samosas, 2 vegetable samosas, a potato bijaelic and a Tusker beer for 244.70 shillingi ($4.26).

Got back to the room at 3:22 and repacked everything into 1 bag and my daypack for the flight home. Showered. We gathered in the hotel lobby at 5:30 but one of the vans was late so we left at 6:00.

Drove through rush hour traffic which was heavy, congested and extremely polluted foul air. Drove to the Carnivore Restaurant in the outskirts of Nairobi for our final supper together. Our meal consisted of salad, leek and potato soup, a small potato and the following meats: liver, chicken, beef, pork, lamb, ostrich, hartebeest, zebra and more I can't remember. Now I know why the place is called Carnivore. Dessert was vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries. Truly a feast. Doug read an Ode to Willard which related our climb up Mt Kilimanjaro in rhyme. Barbara Smith presented for the group a card and large wood carving with all the African animals on it to Willard. Willard presented our 3 drivers James, James and Isaac with our tip and a Canadian lapel pin flag with a story explaining the significance of the symbols on the flag. We had to get to the airport so we hustled out arriving at 8:15. We checked in and were delayed about 30 minutes, taking off at about 10:45 aboard a Boeing 767 on KLM flight 566 seat 14C next to the bulkhead.

Thursday October 8, 1998 Fly Nairobi to Amsterdam

Catnapped during the 9 hour flight over, Kenya, Uganda, Congo, Central African Republic, Chad, Libya, Italy, Switzerland, France, Belgium and Holland getting up to 2 hours total sleep.

We made up time and landed at 5:56 a.m. at Schipol Airport in Amsterdam. Since we had an 8 hour layover, 12 of us took a tour of Amsterdam for 50 guilders ($29). We stopped at a cheese farm where I bought 1/2 kilogram of pepper cheese for 14 guilders ($8). Had a spicy chicken sandwich and a draft Heinekin beer for $7. Said goodbye to the contingent flying to Toronto about 5 minutes before us.

Boarded a Boeing 747 on KLM flight 641 seat 55K to New York's JFK Airport. We departed on time at 2:00 and flew a southerly route because of strong prevailing winds further north. We flew over southern England crossing the Irish sea at the Bristol Channel outlet for the Avon river. We passed south of Ireland across the Atlantic to Newfoundland then the coast over Nova Scotia and New England to New York arriving in a heavy rain about 4:00 pm. I sat next to a woman and her 25 year old son from Manchester, England visiting her sister in Connecticut.

It was 5:00 by the time I got unloaded, picked up my luggage and checked through immigration and customs. Said goodbye to Dennis and Jean Towgood who were spending a couple of days in New York. The transfer desk wouldn't take my luggage because there was not enough time to get it on my 6:00 flight to Baltimore. Got on a connector bus as directed but I got on a B bus which only goes to the subway and not other air terminals. By the time I realized my mistake and found a way to get back to terminal 9 it was very late. The American Airlines check-in desk wouldn't take my bag because it was 6:00 departure time so I took it to the gate as directed. When I got there the flight was delayed 30 minutes. We walked from a bus to board about 6:30 in a heavy rain and they took my big bag to put it in the hold of the SAAB 340 American Eagle flight 4924. We sat and sat in a pouring rain before finally joining the queue and inching our way 2 miles to the takeoff runway finally lifting off at 7:54. We had a bumpy 53 minute ride to Baltimore. We landed and carried my waiting bag from the plane. Anne was waiting and we drove home arriving about 9:30 pm. After a shower, the bed felt great after being up about 48 hours.