TOUR ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND
BIKE BORDEAUX TO BARCELONA

AUGUST 25 - SEPTEMBER 22, 1997

August 25, 1997   Monday   COLUMBIA, MD to ICELAND

Got up at 6:15 and ran. Ran around taking care of last minute details and packed for trip. Tried to eat all leftovers in the refrigerator.

Barry and Carol Nelson came at 5:45 and we loaded their van then headed for Baltimore Washington International (BWI) Airport arriving about 6:15 pm. Put our bikes in plastic bags without removing or altering anything. Anne's bike weighed 12kg (26.46 lbs) and mine 15kg (33.07 lbs). The dry bag with tent and sleeping gear weighed 15kg (33.07 lbs) and the clothes suitcase weighed 25kg (55.12 lbs). We were checked in within 15 minutes so we went to a lounge for a couple of beers and drinks for everyone for $27.38.

Boarded Icelandair flight #642 about 8:15 seats 8D and 8E and left the terminal precisely at 8:45. We were in front of the door so we were the only seats all the way across the plane. We had a meal of beef, potatoes, green beans and drinks. The food was very good and all drinks were free and as many as you wanted. Anne and I got some Baileys Irish Cream cordials for Marge. Catnapped a little on the plane. Flight time 5 hours and 5 minutes.

August 26, 1997   Tuesday   REYKJAVIK to CHELTENHAM, ENGLAND

Landed at Reykjavik Airport at 6:00 am local time (2:00 am EST). The airport was small but very nice. The sun was just coming up and there was a ground fog. Very beautiful! Exchanged $101 for £60 plus 12 Iceland kroners with no fees at the official exchange rate. We took off at 7:50 am on flight #430. Great breakfast (not sure what it was) with free drinks. Flight time 2 hours 45 minutes. Slept a little.

Landed at London Heathrow Airport about 11:45 am GMT (6:45 am EST). Went through customs and picked up our luggage. The bikes were last to arrive and came up on a side chute away from the luggage. Bikes were in good shape. Picked up Alamo shuttle to where the car was located. Checked out the Vauxhall Corsa 1.4 litre for £206.37 ($334.31) for 10 days and loaded the luggage with the back seat down. The bike rack fit on the back window but not well. It impeded the rear window wiper. It kept coming loose which made me nervous.

Left the lot about 2:00 and drove to the M4 to the M25 to the M40 to the A40 to Cheltenham. Stopped at a Little Chef for a BLT and potato skins for 2 for £11.50 ($18.62). Arrived at 4 Beverly Gardens in Woodmancote about 5:00 pm.

We unloaded and Marj arrived. Had a couple of Foster's beers and supper of salmon, potatoes, salad and other vegetables with an apple pie and cream. Very tired so we went to bed at 9:00 pm.

August 27, 1997   Wednesday   CHELTENHAM, ENGLAND

Got up at 7:10 and ran down to Southam, then along the Evesham Road to Bishops Cleeve and up Two Hedges Road to Woodmancote in 40:11. Breakfast of orange juice, shredded wheat and toast. Showered and loaded bikes on the car. Followed Tony over to daughter Gillian's house where Marj was taking care of George, Matthew and Lawrence. It rained pretty hard while we were there.

Drove to Bath on the A46 to Bike Tours at 82 Walcott Street. Left our bikes in the shop and went upstairs to meet Jenny Noad and Pennington. Paid £1 for parking across the street. It was sunny and warm. Walked up to the Hole in the Wall pub but ate at the Cork and Crown pub. We had ploughman's lunches and a pint of cider for £8.75 ($14). Quite good.

Drove back to Cheltenham arriving about 3:45 and went shopping. Bought a Marlot bottle of wine and an IPA beer at Marks and Spencers for £4.65 ($7.44). Bought post cards and a curling iron at Boots for £9.60 ($15.36). Withdrew £140 ($228.18) at Lloyds Bank ATM on High Street.

Got back to the Everetts about 5:20. Walked to the Apple Tree for a pint of beer for £3.64 ($5.82). Gillian had car problems so Marj arrived about 7:10. Drank another Fosters. Marge cooked steak, green beans, potatoes, carrots. Served with a white wine and fruit salad with cream for desert. Very good. Chatted until 11:15 and then to bed.

August 28, 1997   Thursday   CHELTENHAM, ENGLAND

Got up at 7:35 and ran down through Woodmancote to Bishops Cleeve and left along Evesham Road then left on Southam Road to Southam than left on road to Woodmancote in 46:00. Breakfast of orange juice and honey shredded wheat biscuits. Reinstalled rear wiper blade on car and folded up bike rack.

Rode to Lloyds Bank in Cheltenham with Tony and got £140 ($227.57) from the ATM. Tony exchanged £49.26 ($78.82) to 470 French francs and £45.96 ($73.54) to 11,000 Spanish pesetas.

Anne and Marge arrived from shopping about 12:30 and Marge served lunch of shrimp with salad dressing in avocado halfs, bread, cheddar cheese and fruit salad with strawberry ice cream.

I drove Anne and Marge up Stockwell Lane a 25% grade and over to Winchcomb. I bought the book Rob Roy for £1 and the Cotswold Way for £1.50. We stopped at the Olde Bakery Tea Shoppe for tea and I had a raspberry crumble for £4.35 plus £.65 tip. We drove back via Bushcomb Lane past Marj's folks property to Bishops Cleeve for some groceries.

Returning about 5:45, we changed and I drove Anne, Tony and Marge to Alderton out Evesham Road to the Gardeners Arms Pub for dinner of a pint of ale, lamb, potatoes, carrots, green beans, broccoli, cauliflower, bread, butter, summer fruit pudding (outstanding) and Flourie red wine. The food was superb, the owners very friendly and nice and the atmosphere very authentic old English pub. Tony treated as it was our 32nd anniversary.

We returned about 10:30 and we went to bed about 11:15. I discovered that most things cost about the same in British pounds as in American dollars.

August 29, 1997   Friday   CHELTENHAM, ENGLAND

Got up at 7:10 and ran down to Bishops Cleeve turned left on Evesham Road to a left on Southam Road to a left on New Road to Woodmancote in 43:46. Ate breakfast of orange juice, shredded wheat biscuits and toast.

Anne and I walked up Stockwell Lane to a left on the B4632 to the top of Cleeve Hill and left on Bushcomb Lane to Bishops Cleeve and left to Woodmancote leaving at 9:35 and returning at 10:45. Very scenic. Showered.

Drove to the Plough Pub in Prestbury for lunch with Helen Medley at 12:40. We had 2 ploughman lunches and Helen had a BLT. I had a pint of ale and Anne and Helen had a pint of shanty for £14.65 ($23.44). Helen insisted on paying £10 ($16).

Drove to Winchcomb and bought Marge the reserved locket for £28 ($44.80). Had 2 ice cream bars for £2 ($3.20). Drove back through Gretton and Gotherington to Bishops Cleeve then Woodmancote.

Met Ken and Barbara and went through our old house. They have made many changes including a closed in sun room over the patio off the living room. Walked to Catherines house and met Graham and adopted daughter Kelly and son William.

Supper of chicken and mushrooms, carrots, green beans, new potatoes, squash, 2 berry pie with French cream cheese and Bordeaux Blanc wine. Called Richard Medley. Sat and chatted while I drank the IPA beer I bought the other day. Went to bed at 11:10.

August 30, 1997   Saturday   CHELTENHAM to DUNKELD, SCOTLAND

Got up at 6:45. It was raining and very dark. Packed up and loaded the car. Marj made breakfast of eggs, bacon, toast, apricot juice and fruit salad.

Drove off at 8:40 and headed out Evesham Road to Tewksbury to the M5 north to the M6 at Birmingham. The weather cleared and it was beautiful. Stopped at the Sun Inn for lunch of 2 ploughman lunches, 2 leek and potato soups, 2 summer puddings, 1/2 pint of cider and 1/2 pint of shanty for £10.43 ($16.69).

Headed north to Carlisle where we visited the information center and the castle. Nice town and very lively with a soccer match, the university and a festival with bands in the town center. Headed west on the A69 to Hadrians Wall where we walked and photographed it in a few places.

Drove north on B6318 to B6357 to M74 to M80 at Glasgow to Stirling. A huge accident with medivac copters had the other side of motorway tied up for 8-10 miles. Tried to stay in Stirling but all hotels were full because of the last concert for a Scottish group after 20 years. Drove to Perth but all hotels were full because of the races.

Drove to Dunkeld where we got room 101 at the Royal Dunkeld Inn for £70 ($112) including breakfast. Ate 2 fish and chips at £4.95 each, a raspberry shortcake at £2.95, a pint of bitter and a 1/2 pint of cider for £15.45 ($24.72) downstairs in the hotel. Went to bed at 11:00.

August 31, 1997   Sunday   DUNKELD to INVERNESS, SCOTLAND

Got up at 6:28. Ran north along the River Tay and back in 45:37. It was chilly with a light breeze and overcast. Passed neat and clean farms with cattle and wheat fields. The road was lined with ripe raspberries. Walked around Dunkeld to cool off. The town is very old and well kept with lots of history. Shaved and showered. Went to breakfast of 2 eggs, sausage, grilled tomato, bread, toast, tea, orange juice and grape fruit at 8:40.

Anne and I walked around town, the cathedral and along the river taking pictures. Packed up and checked out with the bill being £85.40 ($136.72) including supper and breakfast. Walked to church at 11:00 in the cathedral 680 years old. It was fantastic, my first Church of Scotland service.

We left Dunkeld on the A923 and A93. We stopped at the Glenshee ski area for lunch of shepherds pie, 2 minced pies, shortbread cookie, milk and coffee for £4.85 ($7,76). The scenery was stunning with heather covered mountains and glens. No trees. Stopped at Balmoral Castle but couldn't get in because the royal family was there and security was very high because of Dianna's death. Walked to the chapel where the royal family went to church that morning. Drove up the A939 to Grantown on Spey where we gassed up for £25.77 ($41.23). The Grampians are very rugged and beautiful. The road was very remote and narrow with several 20% grades. Have seen cyclist all over England and Scotland. Passed the Lecht Ski Area. Turned on A954 to the A938 to A9 to Inverness.

Stopped at the Travel Inn on the A9 south of Inverness a little past 5:00 and checked into room 9 for £43.92 ($70.27) including 2 breakfasts. After 6:00 we walked across the road to Harry Ramsden's for 2 fish and chips, green peas, tea, bread, coffee, ice cream sundae, wine and beer for £18.24 ($29.18) plus £3 ($4.80) tip. Walked back to the hotel and watched TV about Dianne. Saw the chapel we had visited that morning.

September 1, 1997   Monday   INVERNESS, SCOTLAND

Got up at 6:55 and ran 47:51 through the suburb of Inverness. Overcast and cool. Showered and went to 8:45 breakfast of orange juice, corn flakes, strawberry yogurt, croissant & tea.

No rooms available, so we packed up and drove down the A9 about 10 miles to Moy. Stopped at the village church and found a whole section of McQueens in the cemetary. Found a slab with several McQueens and dates in the 1700s in the corner of the yard with four walls and no roof. Also saw several McQueeen women married to various names and scattered throughout the cemetary. Drove a couple of miles to Tomatin and stopped in the store post office. A helpful lady and later her husband gave us phone numbers for Margaret McQueen and William McQueen both active genealogists. Drove down across the river to Corrybrough Manor the ancestral home of Clan Revan (McQueen) and photographed it.

Drove back to the hotel neighborhood and the Flukes Pub for lunch of beef pie, fries and a pint of McEwans 70/ with Annes meal for £8.65 ($13.84). Drove into Inverness and visited the visitors center and library. The library couldn't help me although they were friendly and tried.

Drove to Drumossie Hotel about 4:15 and checked into room 4. We unloaded the car and drove to Culloden Battlefield about 5 miles from the hotel. It cost £2.80 ($4.48) each. We watched the 15 minute film and went through the displays. Walked out to the cottage and then around the battlefield.

Drove back to Inverness and Lorimer's for supper of chicken, carrots, peas, new potatoes, McEwans Export, apple crumble, mixed fruit and ice cream with Anne's meal for £17 plus £2.50 tip ($31.20). Got back to the hotel about 7:30. Watched TV and to bed about 11:00.

September 2, 1997   Tuesday   INVERNESS to FT WILLIAM, SCOTLAND

Got up at 6:20 and ran 45:24. Sunny and cool with a breeze. Showered and shaved. Went to 8:40 breakfast of tea, toast, butter, raspberry jam, orange juice and corn flakes. Packed up and checked out for £43.10 ($68.96).

Pulled out on the A9 at 9:30. Drove through Inverness and south along Loch Ness on the A82. Headed west on the A887 and then the A87. Went through some very rugged and beautiful mountains and along several lochs. Passed Eileen Dornan castle a spectacular stone castle on an island with a long arched bridge out to it. Drove over the toll bridge £5.20 ($8.32) to the Isle of Skye and then left on A351 south. The road went over moors and was single lane with passing pull offs. Came out on the sea and pulled into the Clan Donald (MacDonalds) visitor center.

Ate chicken Kiev, fries, lentil soup, and a pear drink plus Anne's lunch for £12.50 ($20). It was raining hard as we headed back and across the bridge £5.20 ($8.32). Stayed on A87 by turning right and south to Fort William.

Stopped in the information center and booked room 25 at the Cruachan Hotel for £48 ($76.80) including breakfast. The hotel is old but nice as is the desk clerk. Went back to town for dinner of seafood pasta, 2 pints of ale, apple pie and ice cream plus Anne's meal for £26.75 ($42.80) at the Grog and Gruel. Anne got a sundae at MacDonalds for £.89. Got back about 8:40. Watched TV and to bed about 11:00.

September 3, 1997   Wednesday   FT WILLIAM to ABINGTON, SCOTLAND

Got up at 6:40 and ran for 46:00 south on the A82 along Loch Linnhe. It looked threatening but never rained. It was cool. Bathed and went to 8;35 breakfast of tea, orange juice, grapefruit, toast, butter, raspberry jelly, scrambled eggs and sausage. Packed up and checked out.

Headed south on A82 in the rain through Glencoe and to Oban on the A828. Gased up for £26 ($41.43). Continued on the A816 to Dunchencraig, a prehistoric stone circle burial burrows and stone carvings. Went on a couple of miles further to Dunadd Fort the ancient capital of Dalriada. I climbed to the top and photographed the footprint, bowl, boar carving and undetermined writing.

Stopped at the Horseshoe Pub in Bridge End for lunch of 1/2 pint of dry cider, 2 ploughmans lunches and 2 lentil soups for £10.74 ($17.18). Nice man running the pub with 2 small kids about 5 and 6.

Drove in heavy rain to Lochgilphead and turned left and northeast on A83 to Loch Lomond then right heading south on A82. Drove into Glasgow and picked up the M8 east to the M74 south to Abington about 5:30.

Stayed in the Welcome Break for £46.95 ($75.12). Walked to the Welcome Break Restaurant for supper of fish, fries, peas, strawberry tart, milk plus Anne's dinner for £14.20 ($22.72).

September 4, 1997   Thursday   ABINGTON, SCOTLAND to CHELTENHAM

Got up at 6:40 and ran 45:27 along A73 toward Glasgow. Had a good tail wind going out but when I turned it starting raining and I had to fight the strong wind. Shaved and showered. Walked to breakfast of orange juice, milk, roll, butter and raspberry jelly for £8.92 ($14.27).

Got on the road about 9:30. Got off the motorway and stopped in Swymecton at the Fitzhelbert Arms for a ploughmans lunch and 1/2 pint of cider plus Anne's meal for £7.87 ($12.72). Gased up in Sandbach for £24.50 ($39.04).

Arrived in Cheltenham about 3:00 and did laundry on the Stroud Road for £2 plus £1 for drying. Had a pint at the local pub while the laundry was being done.

Drove to Everetts arriving about 4:45. Had a Fosters beer. Dinner was lasagna, salad, Boujelae wine and an Italian desert Taramaju. Went to bed at 11:00.

September 5, 1997   Friday   CHELTENHAM to LONDON

Got up at 5:50. Dressed and packed car. Breakfast of shredded wheat biscuits with banana and orange juice.

Got underway about 7:25. Drove through Cheltenham past Cirencester and Swindon to the M4. Terrific traffic as we passed Heathrow Airport. Drove to the Harlingford Hotel on Cartwright Gardens near Eustin Station and checked in about 10:30. Dropped luggage off and received a £30 ($48) parking ticket in front of hotel in five minutes. Dropped rental car at the NCP Parking Garage near Marble Arch about 11:30. Alamo charged me £23.74 ($37.98) for gas.

Walked to a pub on Oxford street for lunch of chicken pie, corn, carrots, peas, potatoes, and a pint of bitter for £15.74 ($25.18) with Anne's lunch. Walked to Leicester Square and got 2 tickets to Buddy at the Strand Theater for £34 ($54.40). Took the tube to Kensington Palace and saw the piles of flowers and mobs of people. Walked to Buckingham Palace then down the Mall to the front of St James Palace where the Queen and Prince Phillip walked by us down the Mall. The crowd was very large (Some estimates were 3 million). Took the tube from Picadilly Circus to Kings Cross for £2.40 ($3.84). Rained as we walked to the hotel.

At 5:00 we caught a taxi to the Strand Theater arriving at 5:20 for £6.20 ($9.92). The 5:30 show of Buddy got out about 8:05 and we walked to an ATM for £40. Walked to Garfunkels for calzone and vanilla shake plus Anne's dinner for £14.85 ($23.76). Taxi back to the hotel about 9:20 for £6 ($9.60). Went to bed at 10:45.

September 6, 1997   Saturday   TRAIN LONDON to BORDEAUX, FRANCE

Got up at 4:48, shaved and showered. Packed up and moved luggage to the street by 5:55. Met Carol and Barry Nelson, Jim and Pat Huelskamp, Walt Pleines, Jim Smith, Vinnie Zarek, Joe Wisznewski, Marcie Berchock and Pete Flaton.

Our 6:00 cabs did not show up by 6:15 so we hailed cabs and rode with Joe Wisznewski to Waterloo Station arriving about 6:30 for £5.80 ($9.28). Got orange juice, coffee and 2 pecan rolls for £4.20 ($6.72). Alex from Bike Tours arrived about 7:30 and gave us tickets.

We boarded the Eurostar train about 8:10 on coach 2 seats 43 and 44. Our ticket cost £26.50 ($42.40) each. We departed at 8:30 and went through the chunnel to Lille, France at 11:15. Transfered to the TGV bullet train to Bordeaux and departed about 12:21. We reached a speed of 186 mph. Got 2 sandwiches, a beer and diet coke for 77 francs ($13.16).

Arrived in Bordeaux about 5:53 and walked across the street to Soretel Hotel room 719. Ron Dowell was waiting for us having arrived that morning. Walked to cafe across the street about 6:40 and had 4 small beers for 50 francs ($8.55) and 34 francs ($5.81) with Joe Wisznewski and Jim Smith.

Bob Moore showed up in the hotel at 7:30 supper of beef shishkebob, fries, bread, salad and ice cream. Walked into town with 13 people and Bev and had a beer and coffee for 23 francs ($3.93). Stopped at an ATM and got 300 francs ($51.28). Walked back and to bed at 12:00.

September 7, 1997   Sunday   BIKE BORDEAUX to HOSTENS, FRANCE

Got up at 7:10 just as it got daylight and showered. Went to 8:40 hotel breakfast of orange juice, bread, croissant, butter, strawberry jam and mixed fruit with cream. Walked to a church with the Nelsons and Ron Dowell. Packed up and took luggage down to the lobby. Lorries with our bikes arrived around 11:00 and we set our bikes up and packed our luggage on the luggage truck.

Eight of us plus some Brits road uptown to San Andres Cathedral and took pictures. We biked back and out of Bordeaux. We were in town quite a while and then we biked through country with some pine woods and passing through an occasional town. Very flat. Sunny and warm but comfortable except when you stopped in the sun.

Stopped at a sidewalk cafe in Hostens as did virtually the whole ride. Had a couple of beers that were 13f ($2.22) each, a little less than Bordeaux at 17f ($2.91). Rode on into the camp at about 4:00 after 34 miles and set up. Had tea of sweets and drinks. Showered. Walked to the camp cafe at 6:00 and had 2 beers and an orangina for 10f ($1.71) each. Quite a few of us there.

7:30 supper of salad with hot meat, bread, chicken, potatoes with mushrooms, wine and ice cream with cream. The wine was unlimited and Jimmy Huelskamp, Joe Wisznewski, Marci Berchock and virtually everyone else was feeling no pain. Quite a good time. Came back from dinner about 10:30 and went to bed.

September 8, 1997   Monday   HOSTENS to LA BASTIDE D'ARMAGNAC

Got up at 6:28 and shaved. No ill effects from all the wine. Toilet was a hole in the floor with two foot pads. Packed up. Anne says there are toilet seats on her side which the men also use. Breakfast at 8:00 of muslix, tea, bread, butter, peanut butter and orange juice.

Biked out about 9:00. Perfect weather , not a cloud to be seen. The road was level except for an occasional hill by a stream. Lots of pine forests and logging activity. Also corn field and neat old farmsteads with timber frame buildings with stone or brick fillers and tile roofs. Biked with Nelsons and Ron Dowell. Stopped in Lencouacq for a beer, soda and potato chips for 28f ($4.79). Biked on to Roquefort where everyone stopped for lunch of ham and cheese sandwich, beer, coke and cheese sandwich with 2 ice cream bars for 80f ($13.68).

Biked into camp after 53 miles. 4:00 tea and goodies. Set up and walked into La Bastide d'Armanac a great medieval town dating to 1290. Ancient town square with a cathedral and sidewalk cafe where I had 2 beers for 30f ($5.13). Walked back and then to supper at 7:30 in a restaurant. Supper was wine, cheese, bread, salad, duck, french fries, green beans and ice cream. Finished about 10:15 when we walked back and went to bed.

September 9, 1997   Tuesday   BIKE LA BASTIDE D'ARMAGNAC to MONTESQUIOU

Got up at 6:30 and it was still very dark. Heavy dew so everything is very wet. ALso foggy, overcast and cool. Packed up and went to breakfast of muslix, bread, peanut butter, jelly and tea.

All 13 of us biked together and stayed together until after lunch. Stopped at the church of Notre Dame for cyclists. It had jerseys, pictures and bikes from many Tour de France races. There were some hills and then it leveled out. It got quite hilly again. Very nice farm country with old farmhouses and barns and neat very green fields. Lots of corn and big tan Charleroi cattle. The cloud cover cleared about noon and it got quite warm. All the villages were old with timbered buildings around a square and church. Arched overhangs lined the squares and there usually was a pump or fountain in the square.

Stopped at a cafe for coffee and it was 25f ($4.27) per cup so we didn't get any. Stopped at a store and bought bread, cheese, 2 peaches, cookies and a liter of orange juice for 61.50f ($10.51). We ate in a farmers field and it was very nice. People were beginning to struggle some because of the hills and the heat. Stopped in Lupiac for coke and orangina for 22f ($3.76). Town and square quite old and nice. Passed through Castelnau de Angels also very old and quaint.

Got into La Haget about 4:15 near Montesquiou after 50 miles. Set up and had some tea, then showered. At 7:15 we took a bus to Montesquiou a fortified town on a hill for supper of salad, liver shishkebob, bean and pea mixture, apple pie with d'Armanac and wine. We ate outside under a roof probably an old open air market. Lots of merry diners as the wine flowed freely. We didn't get back to camp until 12:00.

September 10, 1997   Wednesday   BIKE MONTESQUIOU to MONTREJEAU, FRANCE

Got up at 6:42 and packed up. 8:00 breakfast of muslix, fruit salad and tea.

Biked out at 8:50. Warmer than yesterday with not a cloud in the sky. The terrain was very hilly but beautiful. One grade was about 15%. At the top, we stopped for lemonade and apples from an English couple who have been living there for 7 years. Helped a farmer get his wagon out of the so we all felt good as he and his wife were very appreciative. I didn't know it until late in the trip but he ran into the ditch because he was looking at one of the British women cyclists and his wife was really pissed at him.

Biked into Trie d Boise before noon at 36 miles. Ate at a sidewalk cafe, a lunch of 2 ham and cheese sandwiches (19f or $3.25 each) and 2 oranginas (11f or $1.88 each) for 60f ($10.26). Walked around the corner and withdrew 1000f ($170.94) from the ATM. Bought 2 fruit tarts for 12f ($2.05). Biked out about 1:00. The terrain was more gentle but we climbed 2 long hills at about 5% grade. Got very hot. Stopped in Pinas for 2 oranginas 22f ($3.76) and a Kronenberg beer 10f ($1.71).

Biked into Montrejeau and camp about 4:25 after 48.5 miles. I could see the Pyrenees in the distance all afternoon. Set up and went to tea. Showered for 1f ($.17).

Walked to town for 2 beers at 12f ($2.05) each. Anne showed up at 7:20 and we walked with Nelsons to Auberge Gasconne for dinner of sausage, fries, salad, wine and ice cream with Anne's meal for 112f ($19.15). Walked back about 10:00 and went to bed.

The countryside is filled with concrete and steel crucifixes, crosses and Virgin Marys. Saw a tobacco field, lots of corn and vegetables. Houses and barns are in one complex shaped like a U or L. Very neat and well kept with many flowers. Houses timbered and stone or brick sometimes covered with stucco.

September 11, 1997   Thursday   BIKE MONTREJEAU to LUCHON, FRANCE

Got up at 6:40 and packed up. 8:00 breakfast of muslix and fruit salad.

Biked out at 8:45. Fairly cool but cloudless sky. Biked downhill from Montrejeau and across the river Ouse then up a big climb that was quite steep. Soon came to St Bertrand de Comminges, a church and town like a fortress on top of a hill. Continued on along the river valley passing many neat villages especially Mauleon-Berousse, where we stopped at le poste and mailed cards and took pictures. Fairly easy riding through the valley until we turned off the N124 to Clerp Gaud where we had an orangina for 10f ($1.71) and took pictures. Climbed a steep long hill and then rode along side of a mountain through many scenic villages then a steep descent back to N124. We could see snow in some of the higher mountains.

Pulled into Luchon d Bagneres with Vinnie Zarek and Ron Dowell about 12:45, where we had a ham and cheese sandwich, an orangina and beer for 39f ($6.67). Biked down to the promenade of town then back to camp about 2:00 after 32 miles. Set up and went to the pool. Delightful! Went to tea of many sweets at 4:00 then shaved and showered.

Walked to town with Walt Pleines, Marcie Berchock, Joe Wisznewski, Pete Flaton and Ron Dowell. Ordered a bike shirt with our route on it in a bike store for 330f ($56.41) to be mailed to Barry Nelson in 5-6 weeks. Walked to Le Bellevue on the promenade for a beer, ham cordon bleu, fries, orangina and ice cream plus Anne's meal for 100f ($17.09). Walked back to camp about 10:30. I can hear an owl hooting and calling on the mountain to my right.

September 12, 1997   Friday   BIKE BAGNERES DE LUCHON, FRANCE

Got up at 7:20 and it was barely light. Got Barry Nelson and we biked out of camp at 8:10. Biked through Luchon and up the Superbagneres road. The road was fairly steep for a while then stepped up across 3 streams and up to the turnoff to Lys about 4 miles up. Over the last 5 miles there were lots of switchbacks and the grade got steeper ranging from 9-13% to Superbagneres at 1842 meters. It got windy above the treeline. The climb took 1:41 over 9.5 miles and 4200 vertical feet gain. Barry was 10 minutes behind me.

The views were great. Talked to 2 frenchmen who were parasailors. One 33 year old hikes 6000 vertical feet and then hang glides back. His girl friend often does it with him. Collin, a bloke came up while we were there.

The glide down was great but we couldn't go too fast because of the severe switchbacks. Stopped in Luchon for a ham and cheese crepe, orangina and beer for 50f ($8.55). Returned to camp and our laundry was hanging on the line. Anne and bike were gone.

Biked back to town with Barry and took the funicular with bike for 22f ($3.76) to Superbagneres. Had an orangina and then cycled back down the road going a bit faster this time. Took a side trip up the Vallee d Lys to the waterfall. Talked to a french cyclist who had visited the states in May.

Biked down to Luchon and watched the bike racers come through town with all the support vehicles at 3:30. Biked back to a cafe and had 2 beers and a sweet crepe for 30f ($5.13). Walked to the mayors office where we had champagne and cookies. Luchon is the twin city of Harogate in England. Walked down to a hotel with an Italian restaurant for 2 salads, lasagna, bread, ice cream and red wine and coffee for 154f ($26.32).

Biked back to camp about 8:30 just about dark after 38 miles. Showered and went to bed.

September 13, 1997   Saturday   BIKE LUCHON, FRANCE to ARTIES, SPAIN

Got up at 6:44 and shaved. Packed up and ate 8:00 breakfast of muslix, fruit salad and tea.

Biked out about 9:00 in the fog and misty rain. Biked through Luchon and up 6 miles to the Spanish border at 1200 meters. Luchon is at 600 meters. Anne biked all the way with several stops. Saw a 6 inch black and yellow salamander with big bumps on the road. Went slowly down the mountain with brakes on all the way. It was wet, covered with sand and the road was broken up in places. Very treacherous.

Stopped at the bottom in Bossost for 2 hot chocolates for 24f ($4.10) and then lunch of 2 ham and cheese sandwiches and 2 teas for 56f ($9.57). A circus was in town and a truck with a giraffe in the back was parked in the street. Bought Anne a sweat shirt for 80f ($13.67) because she was wet and cold.

Biked out of Bossost and turned right up the hill as everyone else went straight on the national highway. Biked up to Es Bordes, a neat stone village with a wedding in progress at the church. Continued up the hill and turned on a gravel road. I was bouncing sideways and spinning my back tire as I went for 3 miles. It finally turned back to tarmac. Saw a black and white magpie. Passed a group of hikers at a Plan Billette. Lots of trails and great views. Finally came back down to the city of Vielha and the main road.

Biked on to Arties and the camp about 3:00 after 31 miles. Set up and showered in great facilities. It started raining as I exited the shower.

Walked to supper with Anne and Marcie Berchock. Ron Dowell and Pete Flaton joined our table. We had pork liver pate', pasta (wonderful), chicken stuffed with pork and sausage, green beans, fruit salad, unlimited excellent red wine and bread for 4000p ($27.17). Best wine and meal on this trip and one of the best ever. Walked back to camp and to bed at 10:40.

September 14, 1997   Sunday   BIKE ARTIES to SORT, SPAIN

It didn't rain during the night but it was breezy. Got up at 4:00 to go to the toilet and the tent was dry. Listened to the church bell chime 7 times for the second time and got up. My watch went off about 10 minutes later for 7:00 am. A misty rain started when I got up and it was foggy. Packed up a soaking wet tent. Went to breakfast of muslix, fruit salad and tea about 8:10.

Started off with Huelskamps and Vinnie Zarek about 9:00. Started climbing immediately with a grade up to about 10%. I was in my 42 X 25 the whole way. Left Vinnie about 1/2 way up when he shifted into his small chainring. Passed Lawrence, a small Brit with dark curley hair and topped the summit at 2073m after a 10 mile climb. Stopped at the ski lift snack bar but it was not open. Went on a couple hundred yards to the restaurant where I drank an orange soda for 200p ($1.36). Came out to bright sun and saw Fred Robin (a Scot from Glasgow) and Lawrence. Several serious Spanish bikers arrived at a fast pace. Vinnie arrived and we descended at a slow pace stopping several times for pictures. Saw a farmer herding sheep with whistles to his border collies. Descended 15 miles of spectacular switchbacks to Esterri where we met Walt Pleines and Anne who had been shuttled to the top of the pass.

Ate lunch of 2 grilled ham and cheese sandwiches, 3 Fanta orange drinks and 2 ice cream sticks for 1845p ($12.53) at a sidewalk cafe.

Biked down a main highway with a good shoulder along the river on a gradual downhill to Sort. Saw some rafts and kayakers running the whitewater rapids. Got in about 2:00 after 44 miles.

Dried equipment and set up on large river bank. Walked to camp store for 2 draught San Miguel 1/2 litres and an 8 ounce sangria for 650p ($4.41). Very nice. Talked to a Catalunyan woman who spoke 5 languages and was very nice. Went to tea about 4:20 for tea and sweets. Showered in nice facilities with about 8 showers and water almost too hot. Anne had a sangria for 175p ($1.19) and then we walked to town with Nelsons, Marcie Berchock, Walt Pleines, and Pete Flaton.

8:00 ate salad, rabbit, beans, creme caramel and wine plus Anne's meal for 3425p ($23.26) at the Can Punyetes del Pallars. Got back about 10:30 and went to bed. Jim and Teresa from Lancastershire ate with us.

September 15, 1997   Monday   BIKE SORT to ORGANYA, SPAIN

Woke up at 7:06 and packed up. 8:00 breakfast of muslix and fruit salad. Sunny but cool.

Biked out of camp about 9:00 through Sort and turned left across the bridge and started climbing. Followed Anne up from 600m in Sort to 1740 meters at the pass over 13 miles. Fantastic scenery. Clouded over a bit. Stopped near the top for 2 orange drinks and a twinkie for 550p ($3.74). Descended for 10 miles that was really fun.

Stopped in Adrall at the Pan Pere for lunch of soup, ham and cheese sandwich and fresh orange juice for 2700p ($18.34). Bought an apple for 30p ($.20).

Biked into camp before 3:00 after 40 miles. Set up and showered. Trued rear wheel. 4:20 tea and sweets. Had a draught beer for 150p ($1.02) and a can of beer for 175p ($1.19). 6:00 walked to town with Nelsons, Marci Berchock and Joe Wisznewski. 7:00 ate at La Cabana including soup, salad, stewed beef, fries, Catalan cream, wine and bread for 2 for 3284p ($22.30). Ron Dowell, Pete Flaton and Jim Smith joined us. Walked back to camp and went to bed about 10:20.

September 16, 1997   Tuesday   BIKE ORGANYA to SOLSONA, SPAIN

Got up at 6:40 and shaved. It had rained during the night because there was a puddle of water on my dry bag but the tent was dry. It was fairly warm as I slept without the sheet over me. Packed up and went to 8:00 breakfast of muslix and fruit salad. Made a peanut butter and jelly sandwich also took some cheese and bread.

Biked off just before 9:00. Turned out of town and started up. It was quite steep and long passing through 5 tunnels. Views and scenery very spectacular all day. We climbed several times with some relatively short down hills. Someone said we climbed 25 out of the first 30 miles. Biked with Barry Nelsons and Vinnie Zarek. Topped the pass at about 30 miles at 1460 meters. Finally started downhill and tied up with Richard from London who owns a printing business. He was fast and bike raced professionally in Belgium for 2 years. He is 51 years old. We went quite fast and pulled into camp about 1:15.

Nothing was open and no one there so we biked 1.5 miles to Solsona for 4 beers for 600p with Barry Nelson, Richard, Al and Lawrence. Anne, Marcie, Carol and Walt came in from another direction. Biked back uphill to camp about 3:30 after 45 miles.

Set up and went to 4:00 tea. Went to shower but no hot water. Found out I was pushing the wrong button so I went back and had a nice hot shower. Walked down to the bar and drank some red wine until dinner at 8:30.

Dinner was stewed veal, peas, carrots, potatoes, pasta soup, bread, wine and ice cream with cream. Walked back to tent about 10:15. Anne took a glass wine decanter from the restaurant. Also took a San Miguel beer glass. Went to bed at 10:30.

September 17, 1997   Wednesday   SOLSONA, SPAIN

Got up about 7:55. 9:00 breakfast of muslix. Did laundry 500p ($3.40) and dried for 300p ($2.04).

Biked 2 miles into Solsona about 11:00 with Nelsons. Got 7000p ($47.54) from an ATM. Walked around old town. Mif a 74 year old Brit who is a professional saxophone player and has biked everywhere in the world on his Moulton foldup bike, biked off a step in front of the cathedral and fell but was not seriously hurt. We bought an orange and lemon sodas, bread and 2 eclairs for 375p ($2.55). Next door we bought an apple, peach, cheese, gum, and potato chips for 619p ($4.20). Ate in a park. Walked around town some more and biked back to camp about 2:00 after 4 miles.

Washed 3 T-shirts out by hand and hung them to dry. Walked to the camp cafe and had a Fanta orange drink and potato chips for 285p ($1.94). Anne had the same. Drank a draught Estrella Damm for 150p ($1.02). Walked back and showered. Walked back to the bar at 6:10 for wine with the group, a decanter costing 385p ($2.61).

8:15 dinner of piella, salad, wine, bread and Catalan cream (a custard with a crust of melted and browned sugar). Went back to tent at 9:30 and to bed about 10:00. A full moon lit up the countryside with a church perched on the edge of a cliff atop a massive hill about 2 miles away.

September 18, 1997   Thursday   BIKE SOLSONA TO MONTSERRAT

Got up at 6:36 and shaved. Packed up and ate 8:00 breakfast of muslix and fruit salad.

Biked out of camp at 8:50. Biked through Solsona about 8 miles to El Miracle where we stopped and photographed the gold altar. It was sunny and warm. Biked through rolling hills to Sardina with its striking castle above the old town. Had a pastry and hot milk (served with sugar?) for 350p ($2.38).

Got separated from Anne and rode to Suria with Barry Nelson. Barry stopped on a downhill without warning and I almost bought it. I left a 30 foot streak of rubber on the road as my rear end started to pass me. Ate lunch of sausage, beans and orange drink for 850p ($5.77). Anne, Carol Nelson and Marcie Berchock came in as I was finishing. They ate at another restaurant a couple of blocks away and Annes lunch was 800p ($5.43). I walked up and fixed Anne's front derailer cable so it stayed in the middle (42) chain ring.

We biked to Manresa where we stopped for 2 orange drinks, chips and pistachios for 520p ($3.53). We left Manresa and started climbing up to Montserrat a climb of 10 miles. I pulled the chapstick out of Anne's derailer so she could ride in the small chainring (32). We finally arrived at the monastery about 5:20 after 58 miles.

The views were spectacular. We checked into room 201 which had about 4 bedrooms. It was a mistake so we had to move to room 102 for 2 people. I locked up the bikes and had a draught 1/2 litre of beer for 325p ($2.21). Got Richard (the mechanic) to replace Anne's derailer cable for 1.50 ($2.43). Showered and ate snacks provided by Bike Tours. 8:05 walked to the hotel where we had red wine 1/2 bottle for 495p ($3.36).

8:30 dinner of soup, salad with 2 hams and 2 fish, stewed beef with mushrooms and Catalan creme, bread and wine. Walked back to monastery at 10:15 and went to bed about 11:00.

September 19, 1997   Friday   BIKE MONTSERRAT to BARCELONA

Got up at 6:48 and packed up. Walked to the basilica and saw the Black Virgin. The church was very impressive. Bought a book on Montserrat for 500p ($3.40) and 2 post cards for 60p ($.41). 8:00 breakfast of orange juice, sweet rolls, bread with butter and jelly.

Biked down the mountain which was fantastic. The roads were quite busy and narrow. Climbed over several long hills making the run very hard. Stopped in Viladecavalls for 2 Fanta naranjas for 250p ($1.70) plus a can of Fanta Naranja for 175p ($1.19). Biked on to almost 1:00 when we stopped at Bar Floretas for lunch of 2 potato salads, chicken, fries, mellon and 4 Fanta Narajas for 1900p ($12.90).

Continued on climbing yet another hill to Barcelona where we stopped at a bar and I got a free beer from Jimmy Huelskamp. Anne and Marci arrived and Anne had a small beer for 150p ($1.02). We biked on up the hill a short distance to a park. We had 2 ice creams on sticks for 200p ($1.36). Bought 1500p for $10 from Joe Wisznewski. Walked down to an overlook of Barcelona and watched a helicopter put out a big fire that had consumed a house. Our police escort left about 4:30 and escorted 78 cyclist and our 3 vans to our hotel arriving about 5:00 after 46 miles.

We unloaded our luggage via a fire brigade line. Checked into room 701 of the Hotel Wilson. Went out and removed the pedals, turned the handlebars and loaded our bikes wrapped in bubble wrap on a van by 6:00. Bought 1500p for $33 from Ron Dowell. Showered and went for drinks in the hotel with Jim and Teresa Blanchard for 450p ($3.06).

8:30 dinner of bean salad, stew beef, vegetables, lemon yogurt, wine, bread and champagne. Bought Graham Chamberlain a beer for 300p ($2.04). Went back to our room about 10:15 and to bed at 11:00. We had biked 525 miles from Bordeaux to Barcelona.

September 20, 1997   Saturday   TRAIN BARCELONA to FRANCE

Got up at 6:55 and packed up dry tent and packed the dry bag with the tent, sleeping bags and mats, etc. Packed up. Shaved and showered. 8:00 breakfast of rolls, butter, jelly, sweet rolls, corn flakes and orange juice. Our group walked down to take a bus tour of Barcelona but we didn't have enough time.

Vinne Zarek, Ron Dowell, Anne nad I took a cab to Monument d Colon for 800p ($5.43). Ron, Vinne and I took the elevator to the top of the monument for 250p ($1.70) each. Great views of the city so I shot the last of my film. Walked up Les Rambles and stopped for 4 orange drinks for 2247p ($15.26) a real rip off. I accidently smashed a glass as I left the table. Bought T-shirts for Lorraine, Kara, Jason, Kevin and Anne for 7500p ($50.94). Anne bought a china statue for 4500p ($30.56). Stopped at the Barcelona Sports Bar for taco salad, orange drink, Caesar salad and water for 1855p ($12.60). Walked through Gotic Barri of Barcelona and the basilica. Very impressive. Stopped in a store and bought bread, cheese and 3 orange juice for 619p ($4.20).

Walked back to the Wilson Hotel. Mike and Di, a British couple, were pickpocketed by some women who were caught by the police who then gave Mike and Di a ride back to the hotel. Vinnie and I walked 2 blocks to a store for apples, cupcakes, red wine and a bottle of water for 650p ($4.41). Caught a cab to Estacio Sants for 900p ($6.11).

Our train for Cebere, France left at 3:18, a local train that made 24 stops before arriving at 5:55.

Our coachette train car number 30 coachettes 65 and 66 in the middle of the car left at 6:55 for Lille, France. There were 6 of us to a compartment including Vinnie Zarek, Jim Smith, Jim Spence (a Scot dentist from the Isle of Wight), Anne and I. Mif left and got a 1st class ticket. Watched the French countryside until dark. Ate supper of what we brought. Went through Avignon, a walled city with extensive castles and churches on a hill behind the walls and lit up by floodlights. Also lots of fireworks as it was a national festival of the arts in France. Went to bed about 11:00 with the window open.

September 21, 1997   Sunday   TRAIN LILLE, FRANCE to LONDON, ENGLAND

Slept fairly well but we had the window open and it was quite cold. I was the first up at 7:00 and watched the French countryside in the early dawn from the hallway.

Pulled into Lille about 8:16. Walked our luggage to another station about 300 yards distance. Bought 2 danish, coffee and hot chocolate in the station for 36.50f ($6.24). Saw a nude man carrying his clothes through the station. Three policemen showed up, surrounded him, made him dress and then escorted him up the elevator.

Boarded the Eurostar train on coach 4 seats 63 and 64 which departed at 10:11 for London. Bought a coffee, croissant and candy bar for 26f ($4.44) plus .05 ($.08). Passed through the chunnel again.

Arrived at Waterloo Station at 11:26. Went through customs with our luggagge. Picked up our bikes from the van across the street from the station. Got 40 ($64.80) from the ATM in the tube station and caught a cab. Our bikes and luggage fit in well and it cost us 8 ($12.96) plus 2 ($3.24) tip to the Harlingford Hotel on Cartwright Gardens arriving about 12:10.

Walked with Vinnie and Smitty to the Valencia for lunch of lamb, pita bread, salad and lemon drink for 4.68 ($7.58). Walked to the Norfolk Arms Pub for mushroom soup, pint of bitter and 1/2 pint of shanty for 4 ($6.48). Checked into hotel at 1:45 and showered.

Walked down to Oxford Street and bought a Cadbury's chocolate almond for 1.09 ($1.77). Got 20 ($32.40) from an ATM. Went to Marks and Spencers and bought 2 lemon and 2 chocolates for Patti and Charlotte for 4.48 ($7.26). Bought 2 Smarties, a T-shirt and purse for Kelsey and a Dianna book for 11.38 ($18.44). Walked back to the hotel at 5:45.

Walked to the Amalfi for 2 salmon carbonari (seafood pasta), 2 salads and red wine for 22.50 ($36.45) with Vinnie and Smitty. Walked back to hotel arriving about 9:00. Went to bed at 10:20.

September 22, 1997   Monday   FLY LONDON to COLUMBIA, MD

Got up at 6:30 shaved and showered. Packed up went to 8:00 breakfast of orange juice, grapefruit, cereal, bacon, eggs and toast.

Caught a cab about 9:15. Put our luggage next to the driver and bikes in front of us in back seat. Cab driver gave us a scenic ride through London to Heathrow Airport arriving at terminal 3 a little past 10:00 for 35 plus 5 tip ($64.80).

We had to walk to terminal 1 with wheeled suitcase, dry bag, small carryon black bag and 2 bikes about 1/2 mile as Icelandair had moved several years ago. Vinnie Zarek and Jim Smith were already there and checked in. They had no bike bags but we managed to check everything in after letting the air out of the tires. Drank a beer in the lounge and bought 2 Cadbury chocolate bars and Scottish shortbread spending my last 5 ($8).

Boarded flight 451 at 12:50 which was 25 minutes late. Landed in Reykjavik for a 2 hour lay over. Flight 643 was full and 3 people stayed over. Flew into BWI about 7:10.

Went through customs and picked up luggage and bikes which were already there as we were the last off the plane being in row 36. Kara and Jason picked us up in their pickup truck. I paid $4 parking and we arrived home about 8:00 pm.

Trip Cost Summary

Plane Tickets		$ 928.90
Bike Tours		$2503.08
Refund		$-160.00
Car Rental		$ 334.31
Gas		$ 164.19
Food		$ 469.85
Purchases		$ 335.82
Cash		$ 988.08
Lodging		$769.28
Pictures		$94.00
Total		$6427.51