July Backpack
New Hampshire Appalachian Trail

On July 17, 2008 I drove to Hanover, New Hampshire then caught a shuttle to Gorham, New Hampshire. The next seven days I hiked southbound on the Appalachian Trail from hut to hut covering 61.8 miles.

It rained everyday and I arrived at each hut totally soaked on five days. Despite backpacking over many mountains with stunning views I didn't take many pictures because of the clouds, fog and rain.

The trail is some of the most rugged on the AT. It is very mountainous as I ascended and descended about 22,500' in the 7 days. It is very rocky with only about 5 miles of good trail to make time on it. The most troublesome were the many 10 to 30 foot drops of slick wet steep sheets of rock with few or no cracks, protrusions or indentations. I fell many times especially during the first two days. Traversing these obstacles greatly increased the nervous tension which increased the fatigue factor.

The temperature dropped to the high 40s most nights. Except for the first day at 780' elevation, temperatures usually started in the low 50s and rose to the high 50s or occasionally to the low 60s. It was windy all the time. It reached 50 miles per hour in the exposed area on top of South Twin Mountain. Actually the wind wasn't bad off the mountain tops below tree line where it is prtotected.

July 17, 2008   Thursday   Drive to Hanover and Shuttle to Gorham, NH

I got up at 5:30 and ate breakfast of orange juice, oatmeal, toast and milk. Everything was packed so I was on the road by 5:11.

My route took me north on US-29 to I-70 east to the Baltimore Beltway I-695 east. I exited onto I-95 north across the Susquehanna River where I paid a $5 toll. Entering Delaware I paid a $4 toll for the bridge into New Jersey. I drove the length of the New Jersey Turnpike paying $4.85 toll. Crossing the Hudson River on the George Washington Bridge paying a $8 toll I missed a turn and was lost. Fortunately I quickly recovered following NY-9A north along the river paying another $1.90 toll. I took the Cross County Expressway east to the Hutchinson River Parkway north which turned into the Merritt Parkway or CT-15 in Connecticut. I followed this to I-91 north through Connecticut to Greenfield, Massachusetts. I stopped for 12.3 gallons of gas for $50.04 and a fish filet, fries and ice tea for $6.08 at McDonalds. I continued north on I-91 into Vermont before exiting onto VT-10A across the bridge into Hanover, New Hampshire. I parked in Dartmouth University's long term parking A Lot (free) at 1:47 after 8 hours and 36 minutes of driving.

I put on my backpack, locked the car and walked 0.7 miles to the Hanover Inn across the street from the University Green arriving at 2:11. I waited in the shade untill 3:00 the appointed meeting time. I waited another 25 minutes before I barrowed a cell phone and called Apex Shuttle. Steve Lake didn't know who I was. At 3:45 Vinnie arrived in an air conditioned Lincoln Town Car and we were off to Gorham, NH. After listening to Vinnie's typical American life story for 3 hours from the back seat he dropped me off at the Northern Peaks Motel at 6:50 and I paid him $290.

I checked into the familiar motel in room 107 for $64.80 and chatted with the manager lady whom I had met in previous years. I decided on J's Corner a few doors away for supper. I had an excellent haddock dinner with twice baked potatoes, slaw, a light raspberry cake and a local craft brewed 16 ounce draft beer for $28.52 including tip. After a shower I went to bed early.

July 18, 2008   Friday   Backpack US-2 to Imp Camp

I got up before 6:00. I noticed some activity at a country store across the street. I crossed over and found the pickings slim. I did manage to buy some orange juice, milk and Gorp $7.48 for breakfast. I decided to walk the 4 miles along US-2 to the AT. I went a short distance when I encountered an AT through hiker coming out of a fast food restaurant. He was very friendly and told me he had a shuttle to the AT at 7:00. I walked back to the motel with him where we were joined by 3 more through hikers. Golden Waldo Feige showed up at 7:00 and we piled into his white van with our packs for the short ride to the AT. The shuttle is free so I tipped Waldo $20 because that was all I had.

At 7:22 I started up the AT at 780 feet of elevation. The trail was good as I went encountering a few mosquitos, other bugs and toads around the numerous small stream crossings. The trail slowly got ever steeper and rocky. It soon started a misty rain and increased in intensity all day. I had my wicking water proof jacket tucked under a strap on the back of my pack. I kept checking it as it wasn't well secured. I passed 6-8 people as I ascended the increasingly steep and rocky trail. As I summited Mt Moriah I realized my jacket was gone. I couldn't believe I could be so stupid in not properly securing the jacket instead of worrying about it. I realized I could not continue without the jacket. I took off my pack and hurried back down the mountain about a half mile before catching the last guy I passed. He had my jacket and was packing it out thinking it belonged to somebody in front of him. I had to retrace my steps back up the steep and stoney trail. I arrived at Imp Camp at 2:48 about 0.25 miles off the AT down a rough side trail. Today I backpacked 9.25 miles in 7 hours 26 minutes averaging 1.24 miles per hour climbing 5290' and descening 1039' in two climbs.

I checked in with the very nice tall and pretty college age caretaker. It had stopped raining so I set up my tent on platform #4. I didn't want to be in the shelter with the 6-8 other hikers. I realized it would probably rain again so I cooked some Alfredo noodles and beef. Sure enough, it started raining hard with strong winds before I finished eating. I closed the vestibule on the tent and finished eating including the cocoanut cream pudding. It was over an hour before it quit raining so I could get more water and use the privy. I stow all my food, toothpaste and other edible materials in the steel bear box. After another hard rain the young lady came around to register me and I paid the $8 fee with my credit card (unbelievable). I am in my sleeping bag by 8:30 as it started to rain hard and would do off and on all night with strong winds.

July 19, 2008   Saturday   Backpack Imp Camp to Pinkham Notch

I'm up at 5:40 and packing up . Everything is wet. I start backpacking up the trail to the AT at 6:33. The rocks are slippery and the brush soaks your shoulders and hip. I am grazing on the leftover Gorp and a granola bar from yesterday and drinking water. I am climbing 1280' to North Carter Mountain 4530' then Mt Lethe 4584' and Middle Carter Mountain 4800'. The trail is very rough and slow with many scrambles up and down rock ledges and boulders. After descending 500' and climbing 350' over South Carter Mountain 4486' it's down 500' through Zeta Pass 3990'. It's up over Mt Hight 4675' then down a little before summiting Carter Dome 4832' with a nice view down on Carter Notch Hut. We've had some light rain but the weather is pretty good with the temperature around 60°. I descend steeply to the hut and it's pond. What a beautiful spot.

Okay, now it's up steeply for a 1000' to Wildcat Mountain 4422' then a lot of little ups and downs over Wildcat Peaks B 4320', C 4298', D 4000' and E 4041'. This is a nice cliff walk with views down into Pinkham Notch and the Appalachian Mountain Club's visitor center at 4:30. Now it's time for a 2000' vertical descent without any breaks on very rugged rocks. Fortunately I pass over the upper steep smooth table rock that is dry. Then the skies opened up in a heavy downpour as I descended for over 2 hours on big rocks with water pouring down the rocks. Despite the problems, the rocks are rough with good hand and foot holds so I rather enjoy the descent. I am concerned about the time because I don't reach the vistor Center until 7:30 after a mile walk across the valley floor. Today I backpacked 12.25 miles in 12 hours 55 minutes averaging 0.95 mph climbing 4189' and descending 5749' in 6 climbs 200' or more..

I checked into room 104 at the Joe Dodge Lodge 2050' $60.40 and hustled over to the dining hall which was closed. The staff seated me and brought out vegetable soup, bread, beef, twice baked potatoes, squash and an apple turnover which I washed down with 4 glasses of cold milk. I met my room mate Dave, a middle-aged man from Connecticut. He took pity on me and gave me the bottom bunk. After a much needed shower I went to bed.

July 20, 2008   Sunday   Backpack Pinkham Notch to Madison Springs Hut

I got up early and packed up. I met Dave at 7:00 in the dining hall for a buffet breakfast of eggs, bacon, potatoes, orange juice and milk.

At 8:17 I started up the AT on an old road at 2050'. The 1.1 mile climb rises 700' and crosses the Mt Washington access road. It starts gently raining and slowly increases all day. The AT gently drops almost 500' before the steep 3000' climb up Mt Madison. The trail is steep, rocky and slow through deep woods for 2 miles. I emerge from the woods to stunted pines 4-5' high and think I am near the summit. Then I realize the high barren gray foggy/cloudy mountain up another mile ahead is actually Mt Madison 5363'. It is very windy with the rain stinging my face as I climb the rocky ridge to the summit. There must be something wrong with me as I am having fun. I catch a glimpse of Madison Springs Hut 600' below as I start a slow tortuous descent down the slick wet rocks. I arrive soaking wet at the hut at 4:30. Today I hiked 7.8 miles in 7 hours 13 minutes averaging 1.05 mph climbing 4810' and descending 1430' in 2 climbs.

I enter the steamy hut packed with people. It is full and I have a hard time finding an empty bunk. I change into dry clothes and join everyone in the dining room/lounge. I drink several cupss of hot chocolate and talk to people in a group of 46, including many teenagers, from New Jersey. They are friendly and I get to know several of them. Supper of vegetable soup, sweet bread, salad, stuffed shells, peas and a desert too rich for me is served at 6:00. I hang around another hour or so chatting and listening to an interchange bewteen a through hiker and other guests before going to bed for the big day tomorrow.

July 21, 2008   Monday   Backpack Madison Springs Hut to Mizpah Hut

I'm up early and packed up before the 7:00 breakfast of cream of wheat, pancakes, spinach quiche and bacon. I leave at 7:20 climbing a ridge on the trail I thought some through hikers descended last night. I pass two trail junctions retracing my steps and studying my map. Nothing is right so I listen to that small voice and return to the hut. I talk to a couple also doing the AT and they point me to the AT. It is now 8:05 as I start up the 0.8 mile 650' climb over rough rocks. Six New Jersey teenagers hurry past me then stop at the next trail intersection where I pass them. We repeated this about 4 times until I left them at the base of the last big climb up Mt Washington. The trail is very rocky with many ups and downs of several hundred feet. For most of the trail the best you could hope for was to be able to step from rock to rock about 3' up on the top edge. There was a good piece of trail that was 3' wide and almost level as smaller rocks had been filled in around to create an almost smooth surface. I understand this was done in the 1930s.

I left the kids behind for good as I climbed a rocky cliff face. The trail then resumed it's normal steep rocky 2 mile 1250' incline to Mt Washington's summit 6288'. Near the summit I encountered the cog rail train in the fog/clouds. I stopped on the summit for 5 minutes to eat a turkey wrap I didn't eat yesterday.

I started descending Mt Washington over 1200' down to Lake of the Clouds Hut about 1.5 rocky miles. I stopped for water and continued. The trail here is a dirt path and almost level for about 2 miles allowing me to make some good time. I am feeling good and still dry for the first time on this trip. It started with a sprinkle and then turned into a deluge as I reached the first of many serious rocky drops. The trail turned into an instant rushing stream with waterfalls at some of the drops. I couldn't stay on the trail in the drops as the volume of water would wash you away. I picked and sloshed my way past Mt Monroe, Mt Franklin, Mt Eisenhower and summitting Mt Pierce. The sign said 0.9 miles to Mizpah Hut. It was a long mile ending in a wet rocky vertical descent to the front door of the hut at 5:50. Today I hiked 12.8 miles in 10 hours and 30 minutes averaging 2.2 mph climbing 4030' descending 5168' in 4 climbs.

Soaking wet I entered the room out of the mist with everyone seated to eat and they all fixed their eyes on me. I was assigned bunk room #3 with a guide, a guide in training and nine backpackers on a women only adventure hike. I put on dry clothes and hurried down to 6:00 supper of very thick tomato vegetable soup, bread, salad, beef, potatoes and peas. Mizpah Hut is the newest hut and is spacious, bright and comfortable. Tonight it is being manned by 5 enthusiastic volunteers as all the college age hut crews are having a beer party at Madison Springs Hut. Again it is early to bed with another big day tommorrow.

July 22, 2008   Tuesday   Backpack Mizpah Hut to Zealand Falls Hut

I'm up, packed and ready for breakfast of oatmeal, pancakes, bacon and hot chocolate at 7:00. It is 7:33 as I start backpacking slightly down for about 0.5 miles. I go over a few humps before summitting Mt Jackson 4052' with some good views back about 1.8 miles distant to the hut that quickly open and close due to passing clouds. Bacpacking over several humps in 1.25 miles I summit Mt Webster 3910' and start descending. After another 1.25 miles the trail drops precipitously into Crawford Notch crossing US-302. Although the 6 mile morning was almost all downhill the going was rough and slow consuming over 5 hours.

The climb out of Crawford Notch in the woods is moderate to slightly steep on a good trail so I move along at a reasonable pace. Encountering a young lady cleaning water bars, I thank her for her efforts and chat a few minutes. After climbing 1800' the trail levels off for 5 miles descending only about 400'. The first 3 miles is alternating bog logs/boards, mud and puddles with a few small streams flowing down the trail. From there the last two miles is a fast sandy trail. I discover a stretch of ripe blueberries and eat many handfills as I go. The final 0.2 miles is steeply up a rocky trail to Zealand Falls Hut 2450' arriving at 5:44. What a motivator to arrive at each hut by 6:00 supper. Today I backpacked 14.1 miles in 10 hours 11 minutes averaging 1.38 mph climbing 3380' descending 4745' in 3 climbs.

Zealand Falls Hut has two large bunk rooms so I chose the left room which was empty except for Mike Russell (36) from Portland, ME. The other 14 guests were in the right bunk room. We were seated 8 each at the two large harvest tables. There were only 3 crew members. Supper was the greatest black bean soup, bread, salad, lasagna, peas and a peanutbutter chocolate brownie with hot chocolate. The hut is airey, relaxed and filled with the soft melodious sounds of the water falls by the front door. Mike and I are both south bound and will hike together tomorrow. Four through hikers came in at 8:00 and were fed.

July 23, 2008   Wednesday   Backpack Zealand Falls Hut to Galehead Hut

Went through the usual morning routine with breakfast featuring French toast. Mike Russell and I started at 7:39 with Mike in front. The trail started up steeply immediately so Mike left me behind. Zealand Falls Hut gets its water from a well. The pump utilizes a long arm the is moved up and down by the current at the top of Zealand Falls. Mike stopped at the first significant level place at Zeacliff Trail to change his socks (heel blister) after 1200' of climbing in 1 mile. I passed him and we yoyoed all day as he made many stops. We climbed another 500+' before descending 150'. We climbed another 450' to Mt Guyot summit. Did I mention that the trail is rocky? We are closed in by fog/clouds. We descended 200' then started a gradual 500' 2 mile climb with the last 0.25 mile steeply up to the summit of South Twin Mountain 4902'. It is raining and windy so I put my jacket on to keep my clothes from being soaked. It was a wet difficult 1100' 0.8 mile descent to Galehead Hut 3800' which took 1 hour and 10 minutes. The wind was very strong and I could hear the wind turbine all the way down the mountain and all night. I arrived at the hut at 1:17. Today I hiked 7.0 miles in 5 hours 38 minutes averaging 1.24 mph climbing 3575' descending 1885' in 2 climbs.

There are several bunk rooms so I took the bottom bunk by the window on the right front of the hut. Mike took the bottom bunk on the other side. A brother and sister from the Upper Pinensula of Michigan later took the bunks above us. Still later 2 guys took the two bunks by the door so 6 of nine bunks were occupied. I dranks several cups of hot chocolate, chicken noodle soup and beef bouillon while eating peanutbutter crackers. I talk to a guy from North Carolina leading a church group of kids. And of course there was a small group from New Jersey. For supper we had vegetable soup, bread, salad, lasagna and peas. A young lady from the crew ran us through an exercise on our carbon print. I found out we would need 10 earths to support the world population if everyone lived like me. Very sobering especially since I do a lot to reduce my energy and other consumption. It was early to bed but the wind turbine howled all night making it difficult to sleep.

July 24, 2008   Thursday   Backpack Galehead Hut to Gale River Shuttle Stop

I have 16 miles planned today over two barren mountains that are high with long ridge walks. Many through hikers have told me this section of trail is the toughest yet. The weather forecast is heavy rain, lightening and high winds. I decide to bail out so I change my reservation from the Lonesome Lake Hut to the Highland Center. After breakfast Mike and I set off at 7:35. The first 0.6 mile is a steep rocky descent in a heavy rain. The trail continues downhill but isn't too bad easpecially compared with the rocky descent. We have 3 tricky side stream crossings in slick rocks under rushing water. We also have to cross the Gale River twice with fast water over our knees and rounded slick rocks on the bottom. We negotiated them all without a problem and arrived at the Gale River shuttle stop at 10:39 after hiking 4.6 miles.

The shuttle arrived a couple minutes late for it's scheduled 11:20 time. I charged the $14 fee as we rode to the Highland Center arriving at 12:15. It is raining hard as it has been all morning with a few short restpits and will continue the rest of the day and into the night.

Mike headed home in his car. I checked into room 312, showered and put on dry clothes. I went to the cafeteria and had a trurkey sub, chips and milk for $7.93. I talked to Bob and Heather fron New Brunswick, Canada who I had met on the trail yesterday. Then I saw Traveler, a radiologist from Atlanta who is through hiking the AT. Then our group included Daniel from Quebec a bicycle tourer who I had seen at Galehead Hut. I checked out the awesome black and white photo gallery of mountain pictures from around the world. I met Richard, a volunteer from Connecticut who turned out to be my room mate. Around 4:00 I drank 2 Long Trail Ales $9 and had some tortillas and salsa in the family room. At 6:00 supper of soup, bread, salad, pork, dumpling and mixed vegetables our group sat together and discovered we all had a lot in common..

July 25, 2008   Friday   Shuttle to Hanover,NH Drive to Columbia,MD

Got up and packed up. Returned the boots and boot drier the Highland Center loaned me yesterday on my way to 6:30 breakfast. Our group ate together before saying goodbye and dispersing our various ways. I talked to my room mate Richard for a long time. We discovered we had a lot in common. I waited outside for my shuttle scheduled to arrive at 9:30.

Golden Waldo Feige AT through hiker '87 showed up at 9:00 in his white van. We took a circuitous route that included I-91 south and ended at my car at 11:00 and I paid him $200. We had some good conversation about the AT and Antartica which he visited in '06.

At 11:17 I drove to I-91 south through Vermont into Massachusetts where I stopped in Greenfield at McDonalds for a fish sandwich, fries and ice tea $6.08 at 1:00. I continued south on I-91 to the Merritt Parkway CT-15 in Connecticut to I-287 west in New York then south on I-87 to I-95 south and the George Washington Bridge. I followed the New Jersey Turnpike $6.45 south to the Delaware River Bridge $4.00 and Delaware Turnpike $3 into Maryland. I stopped at a Blimpies on the NJTP for a turkey sub and chips for $6.61 and 11.9 gallons of gas for $47 at Sunoco. I took I-95 south to the Baltimore Baltway I-695 to I-70 west to US-29 south and home in Columbia at 9:15 after 489 miles.