BACKPACK BLACK FOREST TRAIL

Sometime in May Ron Cully approached me about doing some backpacking in Pennsylvania this summer. I was agreeable but said my schedule was pretty tight so I wasn’t sure when we could go. Ron gave me brief printouts of the Quehanna, Susquehannock, Loyalsock and Black Forest Trails. I subsequently bought the book “Backpacking Pennsylvania’ by Jeff Mitchell which has all four hikes in it. I saw that the Black Forest Trail was a 42 mile (not too long) circuit (easy logistics) trail. I also noted that it was rated Strenuous but didn’t pay any attention to that fact. Scanning my schedule for a hole I could find none until I realized if I included Sunday I could do a four day backpack. This fit the Black Forest Trail (BFT) and Ron’s criteria of 10-12 mile days. I talked to Ron at our Monday kayak and he agreed to the Thursday of the next week start date.

I had relatives visiting for 6 days which allowed me no time to prepare. I didn’t have time to get good maps or guides. I didn’t even read the description in my book. The book had a trail outline with the major streams and roads, campsites and vistas marked. It did not have any distances, elevations, the dirt roads or side trails. We were starting blind.

The BFT turned out to be a very pleasant surprise. First it is aptly named as we spent virtually all our time under tree cover providing comfortable shade. There are holes in the forest but they are few and generally small. The undergrowth was lush and green featuring blooming mountain laurel everywhere, beautiful fields of ferns, blueberries and various flowers. There were some rhododendrons along streams and of course two long stretches of sting weeds along the lower parts of two streams.

There was an abundance of birds. We didn’t see much other wildlife probably because the wildlife was hiding behind the lush vegetation laughing at the two dumb Pennsylvania expatriates lost in their neighborhood. We did see a large turkey up close in the open and two garter snakes about 0.5 inches in diameter and 18 inches long. We did stop and listen to a coyote howl (complaining about our offensive BO) for close to a minute. We didn’t encounter another human until we passed 6 day hikers and a dog in the last two miles of our backpack.

The trail was well marked with frequent newly painted orange hash marks. The trail surface was in excellent shape relatively smooth and flat with new growth hanging over from the sides. There was some horse scuffing of the trail and some droppings. The trail was rocky along the streams and we encountered one stretch of large boulders. The Strenuous comes in as the trail passes near Pine Creek. There are numerous very steep climbs up to a mile long as you ascend and descend the plateau face carved out by the numerous streams flowing into Pine Creek.

June 14, 2007 Thursday Drive to Slate Run and Backpack Black Forest

Ron Cully arrived in his Toyota van at 5:40 as I was finishing breakfast. Ron drove north on US-29 at 5:55. He drove east on I-70 to the Baltimore Beltway I-695 north to I-83 north to PA-581 to I-81 east to US-15 north to PA-44 to PA-414 to Slate Run arriving at 10:19.

At 10:28 we descended about 100 yards from the road to the Black Forest Trail where we registered. My backpack weighs 29.6 pounds including hiking poles and 2 liters of water. We agreed to hike the 42 mile circuit BFT counter clockwise but got turned around and hiked it clockwise. Our outline map had very little detail so it took us a couple of hours to realize we were going in the wrong direction and pinpoint where we were on the map.

We hiked up a gradual incline on an old road or railroad bed parallel to Slade Run for about a mile where we crossed the dirt Slade Run Road. We immediately started ascending very steeply where you have to struggle to take each step. It remained steep over the course of the climb of almost a mile. We had a great overlook about ¾ of the way up. We were sweating profusely even though the temperature had not reached today's high of 70°. We came to Fosters Hunting cabin so we stopped for lunch taking advantage of the seats and shade on the porch. I ate a turkey and cheese sandwich, chocolate chip cookies and an apple, the last fresh food for 3 days. The locked privy had a humorous sign on it that I can’t repeat. Ron spotted a humming bird at the nearby abundant spring.

We followed the rivulet from the spring downhill before ascending again. It was relatively short and not that steep. We didn’t stay on the plateau very long as we descended very steeply to Little Slate Run and a camp site beside the stream. We started up very steeply on a long climb out of the valley to the plateau again. We came to a junction with an old dirt fire road. As we were reading a sign, I spotted a large turkey about 25 yards away on the road. I fumbled for my camera and turned it on waiting for it to ready itself. By this time the turkey casually stepped into the thick brush and became indistinguishable in the picture. Here we passed three vistas in short order before plunging down almost all the way to Pine Creek and about a mile from Ron’s parked van. Here we encountered our first protracted stretch of sting weeds that were overhanging the rocky trail. We were both very uncomfortable from just above our knees to our ankles. We soon forgot our itching and stinging legs as we were climbing another long steep hill along Naval Run. We crossed Naval Run and the Naval Run Trail where there were 3 nice camp sites.

It is 5:00 pm so we set up our Six Moons Design tents weighing 1.5 pounds each next to the stream. We each boiled 1.5 liters of water on our 0.2 ounce home made alcohol stoves. I drank mine as hot chocolate, Thai cream soup and chicken bouillon to replace the much needed fluid, salt and other electrolytes. I then cooked and ate supper of macaroni cheese, beef and pistachio pudding. I was in bed by 8:15. The woods were totally black as we had a light overcast and a new moon.

Today we hiked approximately 10 miles as a best guess while climbing 3010 vertical feet and descending 2890 feet in 4 climbs.

June 15, 2007 Friday Hike Naval Run to County Line Branch

I woke up to the gray morning light at 5:45 and 54° inside my tent. I think we are at 1480’ elevation but can’t be sure since I have no way of calibrating my altimeter for fluctuations in the barometric pressure. We pack up and take down our tents. We are ready to go and hike from camp at 6:28 am.

We start climbing immediately and again it is very steep and long. I even saw my breath a couple of times. We pass through an area with many white birch trees almost all of them dead. Upon reaching the top we hiked along the edge of the plateau. We were serenaded by coyote in a series of howls last a minute or more. We stop at 3 vistas in quick succession. All the views are spectacular with lush green forested mountain sides and stream valleys. At some you can see several ridge lines stretching into the distance.

Shortly we are descending sharply in the Callahan Run valley. As we follow the stream down we encounter a rocky trail that wants to turn your ankles which is masked by the worst overhanging sting weeds. Half way down I realize that I had not turned on my altimeter so I missed our first big climb and half this descent. We spot a campsite on Callahan Creek. As expected we are soon climbing for a long time up a steep mountain side to the plateau.

The plateau at about 2200’ elevation is very pleasant hiking and we begin to make some time. It is almost totally wooded with large areas covered in beautiful blooming mountain laurel or different varieties of waist high ferns or blueberries still green. The trail is padded with loose dirt or matted leaves. We passed a large tree with it’s top twisted off about 25 feet above the ground. The large standing trunk was twisted in a perfect swirl down to the ground. It was quite a remarkable sight. Later we came to an area where a tornado touched down as all the trees were down and a major clearing project had taken place evidenced by the many fresh cuts and saw dust. We pass a camp site near a small stream. We cross paved PA-44 and descend steeply but not for long to Baldwin Branch and another campsite.

This campsite has a stone fire ring and stone fence seating in a semi circle. We stop for lunch. I have my usual back country lunch of two tortillas, cheddar cheese, salsa and Oreos.

We continue along the valley wall at about the same level high above the falling stream. We come to another branch stream and turn right up this branch continuing on the same level. At the point where the rising stream reaches our level we cross it at another campsite. The thermometer says it is 73°. After a short climb we pass another vista before passing from Lycoming to Clinton County. We descend slightly into the shallow valley of another branch stream with a campsite where we cross the stream. Another short gentle climb and descent bring us to County Line Branch which we cross and recross going upstream. We soon come to the first of four campsites on County Line Branch.

We decide to stop for the night at 3:06 pm. We bathe and wash (no soap) our clothes in the stream enhancing the environment by returning some of the good earth back to itself. Again we boiled water and rehydrated. My menu this evening was rice, ham and butterscotch pudding. was in my tent by 6:30 and apparently nodding off as I tried to do my chores and read. Ron told me a hiker came by at 7:00 pm whom I didn’t hear or see. I must have been totally gone by 7:30, the last time I looked at my watch.

Ron’s GPS said we hiked 13 miles today but I know it missed some signals. My altimeter with partial data said we climbed 2130’ while descending 2210’ in 5 climbs. My altimeter thinks we are at 2010’ elevation with the barometric pressure at 28.50”.

June 16, 2007 Saturday Backpack to Slate Run & Drive Home

Got up at 5:28 to 55°. The barometer rose to 28.53” so we sank 20’ overnight to 1990’ elevation. We packed up and left camp at 6:22.

We hiked up County Line Branch crossing it many times. The slope was very gentle so it was easy hiking and we moved along quickly. We passed three campsites and a stand of very large pine trees to our left. The second campsite at the junction with the North Link Trail had a small white tent which we guessed were backpackers. At the third campsite near PA-44 was a large tent with lots of equipment outside indicating weekenders. We were on top of the plateau and soon crossed PA-44.

We were quickly back into the forest and moving well. The trail was almost perfectly flat. We passed large areas of mountain laurel in full bloom, some white and others pink. We also passed through areas of ferns most of the fine lace type that felt good as they rubbed against your calves. There were also lattice type ferns and of course the ever present blueberries. We passed a campsite with a small spring stream located in a virtually flat area. We then passed a nice vista before starting a long gradual descent down to Slate Run. We crossed Slate Run on a bridge following an old road. Shortly we turned into the woods to cross Morris Run on a foot bridge with a nice cascade and small falls. It is now 10:15 am and we are at our last apparent water and campsites. We decide to continue and finish the hike today. After a short distance we came to Red Run which we followed as it gently began to rise. After passing two campsites Red Run began to rise sharply as it tumbled over large boulders. We followed Red Run until it disappeared and we continued climbing over the steep rocky trail. It was sunny and getting hot 77° with no breeze as we finally topped the climb up to the plateau again. We soon came to a nice rock ledge overlook that was spectacular. Just past the overlook, we saw our first snake probably a garter snake about 18’ long by maybe ½” in diameter. We paused at another vista and continued a short way before scaring another snake identical to the first off the trail.

At 12:04 we came to some large square rocks rising about six feet above the ground. We took the 50 yard path to them to eat lunch. I ate my tortilla, cheese, salsa and cookies lunch while drinking a quart of black raspberry tea. We got a few drops of rain as we would get the rest of the hike but never enough to get even damp.

We passed through a brief depression in the terrain with a short easy descent and climb back out. Soon we were at the edge of the plateau starting the long and steep descent down to Slate Run. We passed a young man, then an older man with a dog and finally two couples all out for a day hike. These were the only people we saw in three days of hiking. We descended past three overlooks and some slate quarries. Finally at the bottom we encountered Slate Run about 100’ wide, ankle deep and covered with smooth slick rocks. We waded across and continued uphill about ½ mile to Ron’s van at 2:32.

Today we hiked about 19 miles climbing 2210’ and descending 2670’ in two climbs. We completed the 42 mile Black Forest Trail circuit in three days.

We changed our wet boots, socks and shirts before driving down to the Hotel Manor in Slate Run Village. The parking lot was packed with motorcycles, bicycles and cars. Ron and I inhaled a beer apiece for $5 each. We continued south along the rail trail bicycle trail all the way to Jersey Shore. We stopped at Rhon’s near the end of the Susquehanna River bridge for a much needed milk shake. After reaching US-15 we turned south stopping at the Marysville Diner for supper. We were virtually the only customers and the food and ice tea wasn’t very good except for my haddock. The future doesn’t look very good for the diner. We continued retracing our route back home arriving at 8:05.

Packing List

Equipment	Wt-oz	Clothes	Wt-oz	Food	Wt-oz
Backpack	42.0	Bermudas	14.0	Tortillas (6)	6.0
Poles (2)	17.0	T-shirts (2)	26.0	Cheese (3)	12.0
Tent	24.0	Shorts (2)	6.0	Salsa	7.0
Ground cloth		Socks	9.0	Cookies (12)
Pegs (8)	4.0	Liners (3)	4.0	Gorp (2)	9.0
Sleeping bag	48.0	Jacket	22.0	Mac & beef	6.0
Silk liner	4.0	Camera	4.0	Rice & ham	10.0
Mattress	13.0	Log,maps,etc		Pasta & turkey	8.0
Pot & lid	8.0			Soups (3)	4.0
Stove	0.2	Wear		Bouillon (3)	1.0
Fuel bottle	1.0	Boots - low	40.0	Coco (3)	6.0
Heet fuel	12.0	Socks	4.5	Pudding (3)
Lighter	0.5	Liners	2.0	Pistachio (2)	6.0
Soap	4.0	Burmudas	14.0	Butterscotch	5.0
Dish towel	0.2	Shorts	3.0	Tea (3)	1.0
Towel	1.0	Hiking shirt	13.0
Iodine tabs	1.0	Altimeter watch	3.0
Spoon	0.2
Multi tool	3.0
Water bottle (2)
Toilet paper	7.0
Sponge	0.2
Light	7.0
Sew kit	0.5
Duct tape	1.0
Tootbrush&paste	4.0
Cup	5.0

Accesses since June 23, 2007.