APPALACHIAN TRAIL BACKPACK
PENNSYLVANIA
Clarks Valley to Delaware Watergap, PA
JUNE 16-23, 2006
Andy Buttles and Dan McQueen followed their 12 day 188 mile backpack on the Appalachian Trail
(AT) in Virginia in May with an 8 day 128 mile Pennsylvania AT backpack in June. Andy and Dan
met in Eckville on Hawk Mountain Road to leave a car and then rode together to the New Jersey
side of the Delaware Watergap. We hiked south 62 miles on the AT for 4 days to Andy’s car. We
drove back to pick up Dan’s car and then returned to Hamburg on I-78 to check into the Microtel
We cleaned up, did laundry, filled up our bodies with food and drink, replaced my broken boots,
resupplied our packs and rested.
Andy readying pack in NJ
We started the second 4 day section by driving to the AT on Clarks Valley Road PA-325. We hiked
north on the AT for 66 miles (16.4, 17.4, 21.4 and 11.9 miles respectively) to Eckville completing
the AT in Pennsylvania.
Starting AT in PA
The Pennsylvania AT is noted for it’s rocks and deservedly so. The rocks are no worse than
elsewhere but they are in such long stretches and variety that they become difficult. We
encountered small pointed or edged rocks sticking up that left no space for your foot causing you to
trip or wrench your ankles, knees or other body parts. There were stretches of round rocks about
the size of a road sub surface that again left no space for the feet and rolled when you stepped on
them. We crossed the moraine at the southern terminus of the glacial age which contained all sizes
and types of rocks. There were miles of large of rocks in piles that liked to shift under your feet
despite being large enough not to do that. There were long ridges of sheet rock that are in the
process of being broken up into large boulders and slabs by the frequent freezing and thawing
creating interesting scrambling.
Turned up stata in NJ at watergap
The trail was not all bad as we had many long sections of good trail for fast track hiking although I don’t recall much of that on day 3. We didn’t climb or descend much because we mostly walked along the ridge. There were occasional gaps which accounted for most of the ups and downs. Crossing the Lehigh River near Palmerton was very rocky, steep and spectacular. It was here that we encountered some trail magic receiving 2 bottles of water from the National Park Service and after climbing the mountain had a cold Yuengling beer each and a donut for breakfast from two 1993 AT through hikers.
Adding to the difficulty of the trail was the hot weather. It was over 90° on some days and over 80° most other days. It didn’t always cool off at night for good sleeping as it was 70° two nights and 68° several 1st campsite on cliffs other nights. It is very dry now so many springs are dry or very low. Since we were walking the ridges the water was usually down the rocky mountain side up to .6 miles one way. Consequently we walked a bit more than the 128 trail miles as we frequently had to get water off trail. It is particularly dry north of the Lehigh River. We had one 14 mile stretch with no water. I foolishly miscalculated my water for this section and ended up out of water and badly dehydrated near the road junction. We were faced with a mile walk each way into Danielsville along a hot exposed road and then carrying a lot of heavy water back up the mountain to a camp site. Fortunately a trail angel had left gallons of unopened bottled water at the road with the message “Godspeed”. This saved us as we were headed into the desolated area deforested by the zinc processing factory in Palmerton.
We had a short heavy rain on day 4 in Hamburg as we sat in a restaurant. We dodged that bullet. However, on day 7 our last night of camping as we were camped high on a ridge next to a spring above Port Clinton, a violent thunderstorm with high winds passed through for hours keeping us awake. We both managed to stay dry despite the extended heavy rain and my tent wasn’t that wet when I packed it up in the morning.
We hiked mostly under tree cover everyday except for the 5 mile zinc devastated area. They were mostly deciduous trees with evergreens in some areas. We enjoyed the flowers but they were not as prevalent as in Virginia a month ago. We did see many mountain azaleas in bloom everyday. There were a few rhododendrons in bloom. We saw many flowers that had long thin bladed leaves with a cluster of white blooms on the end of a long thin stem much like a bottle brush. Surprisingly, because we were on a dry ridge most of the time, we saw large fields of delicate lacy ferns everyday. They were very pleasant to hike through. We enjoyed foraging along the trail especially the abundant blueberries. They impeded our progress and were especially good in the zinc devastated area, Maybe the zinc made them good? We also enjoyed a few black raspberries and a cherry tree.
We saw hundreds of squirrels, chipmunks and some very large rabbits. We saw one or more deer everyday. They were beautiful animals as their coat was reddish brown and very clean and healthy looking. They usually didn’t run but stood along the trail and we watched each other as we passed. When they run they are so graceful as they leap over obstructions in the woods. I saw an animal that looked like a bobcat but couldn’t be sure. We saw turkeys a couple of times, a vulture and numerous smaller birds too many to mention.
We encountered many through hikers we had met in Virginia last month including 6’ 1.5” blonde Swissmiss. Some recognized us and we talked to them. We met new people as well including Rich trail name Doc, also section hiking south, and a through hiker whose book has just been listed in the ATC catalogue. I also had an interesting encounter at Fisher Overlook on the first day of summer. Walking about 50 yards off the trail to the overlook I spotted a young man totally nude and his female companion with a few skimpy strings of flowers hanging from her waist. As I turned to quickly retreat to the trail, she called out “Happy summer”.
Despite the difficulties, being a little footsore and weary, we had an interesting backpack that left us with a sense of accomplishment as we both finished the AT in Pennsylvania.
06 BACKPACK PENNSYLVANIA
| Day | June | Fri | Activity | Miles | Location | Miles | Elev | Up | Down | Climbs | Hours | Temp | Cost |
| 1 | 16 | 4:00 | Run | 5.1 | |||||||||
| 6:02 | Drive | Columbia | |||||||||||
| Drive | 1.5 | US-29 | 1.5 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 6.5 | I-70 | 8.0 | ||||||||||
| Sun | Drive | 5.0 | I-695 | 13.0 | |||||||||
| Up | Drive | 8.0 | I-83 | 21.0 | |||||||||
| 05:15 | Drive | 72.0 | I-81 Harrisburg | 93.0 | |||||||||
| Drive | 19.0 | I-78 | 112.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 28.0 | I-78 Exit 9 PA-61 | 140.0 | ||||||||||
| 9:45 | Drive | 5.0 | PA-61 to PA-895 to Hawk Mt Road | 157.4 | 40° | 38.01'N | 75° | 57.67'W | $7.85 | ||||
| Drive | 5.0 | I-78 Exit 11 | 162.4 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 18.0 | US-22 | 180.4 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 16.0 | PA-33 | 196.4 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 24.0 | PA-611 | 220.4 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 4.0 | Water Gap Parking | 224.4 | ||||||||||
| Down | 11:00 | Backpack | Delaware River Bridge & Cafe | 350 | $12.00 | ||||||||
| 09:00 | 12:00 | Backpack | 0.2 | PA-611 (R:PO,M.1W:L,M.4W:G,L3.2W) | 0.2 | 2100 | Pack 24.6lb | ||||||
| Backpack | 0.7 | Council Rock | 0.9 | w no water & | |||||||||
| Dark | Backpack | 0.8 | Lookout Rock | 1.7 | poles | ||||||||
| 9:00 | Backpack | 1.0 | Mt Mensi | 2.7 | 1461 | 88° | Long ridge | ||||||
| Backpack | 2.0 | Totts Gap | 4.7 | walk | |||||||||
| Backpack | 1.9 | Kirkridge Shelter (Sw) - Met Karen Lutz | 6.6 | 1500 | |||||||||
| Backpack | 0.6 | Fox Gap, PA-191 | 7.2 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 1.6 | Wolf Rocks | 8.8 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 5.5 | Camp | 14.3 | ||||||||||
| Camp | 5.5 | Camp | 14.3 | 980 | 2760 | 1080 | 1 | 8:24 | 68° | ||||
| 7:30 | Hydrate | 2 cups each of ice tea,veg soup,bouillon,chocolate | |||||||||||
| 9:00 | Supper | 14.3 | Spaghetti, chocolate pudding | ||||||||||
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| Day | June | Sat | Activity | Miles | Location | Miles | Elev | Up | Down | Climbs | Hours | Temp | Cost |
| 2 | 17 | 5:55 | Up,pack&eat | GORP | 63° | ||||||||
| Sun | 7:03 | Backpack | Camp | 14.3 | |||||||||
| Up | Backpack | 1.5 | PA-33 R(PO,G,L,M1E:L.1W) in Wind Gap | 15.8 | |||||||||
| 05:14 | Backpack | 1.0 | Hahn's Lookout | 16.8 | 3100 | ||||||||
| Supper | 3.6 | Leroy A Smith Shelter (Sw) (S.1E:w.2E) | 20.4 | 1525 | |||||||||
| Backpack | 1.2 | Water | 21.6 | 86° | |||||||||
| Backpack | 3.5 | Smith Gap Road (w1W) | 25.1 | ||||||||||
| Lunch | 2 tortillas,cheese,salsa,3 cookies | 25.1 | |||||||||||
| Backpack | 2.5 | Delps Trail | 27.6 | ||||||||||
| Down | 03:00 | Backpack | 4.8 | Little Gap R(PO,G,L,M1E;w1.2W) in Danielsville | 32.4 | ||||||||
| 06:56 | Backpack | 1.3 | Camp | 33.7 | |||||||||
| Camp | By stream | 33.7 | 2360 | 2490 | 3 | 10:56 | 86° | ||||||
| Hydrate | 2 cups each of ice tea,veg soup,bouillon,chocolate | ||||||||||||
| Supper | 16.9 | Chili & potatoes, pistachio pudding | |||||||||||
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| Day | June | Sun | Activity | Miles | Location | Miles | Elev | Up | Down | Climbs | Hours | Temp | Cost |
| 3 | 18 | 5:52 | Up,pack&eat | GORP | 68° | ||||||||
| 6:13 | Backpack | Camp | 33.7 | ||||||||||
| Sun | 7:20 | Backpack | 3.3 | PA-248 R | 36.9 | ||||||||
| Up | Backpack | 0.2 | Lehigh River Bridge,PA-873 R(PO,G,L,M2W) Palmerton | 37.1 | |||||||||
| 05:12 | Backpack | 0.1 | Lehigh Gap PA-873 R(PGLM 2E) Slatington | 37.2 | |||||||||
| Backpack | 0.6 | George W Outerbridge Shelter Swtd> | 37.8 | 91° | |||||||||
| Backpack | 4.4 | Ashfield Road R(PG2.2W;w.7E) Ashfield | 34.5 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 2.4 | Bake Oven Knob Shelter (Sw) | 44.6 | 1560 | |||||||||
| Lunch | 0.6 | Bake Oven Knob Shelter (Sw) | 45.2 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 0.4 | Bake Oven Knob Road R | 45.6 | ||||||||||
| Down | Backpack | 1.4 | Bear Rocks | 47.0 | |||||||||
| 06:57 | 57 | Backpack | 0.7 | The Cliffs | 47.7 | ||||||||
| Backpack | 1.0 | New Tripoli Campsite (Cw.2W) | 48.7 | ||||||||||
| 3:48 | Backpack | 1.8 | PA-309 Blue Mt Summit (RLMw) | 50.5 | $6.00 | ||||||||
| 3:48 | 6:30 | Camp | 0.5 | Camp | 43.0 | 1330 | 1340 | 3 | 9:29 | ||||
| 8:19 | Hydrate | 2 cups each of ice tea,veg soup,bouillon,chocolate | |||||||||||
| Supper | 14.1 | Rice, turkey & coconut cream pudding | |||||||||||
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| Day | June | Mon | Activity | Miles | Location | Miles | Elev | Up | Down | Climbs | Hours | Temp | Cost |
| 4 | 19 | 5:52 | Up,pack&eat | GORP | |||||||||
| Sun | 7:28 | Backpack | Camp | 51.0 | |||||||||
| Up | Backpack | 1.7 | Fort Franklin Road R | 52.7 | |||||||||
| 06:00 | Backpack | 1.9 | Allentown Hiking Club Shelter (Sw) | 54.6 | |||||||||
| Backpack | 1.3 | Tri County Corner | 55.9 | 1560 | |||||||||
| 11:20 | 11:20 | Backpack | 6.1 | Hawk Mountain Road - Eckville Shelter | 62.0 | 600 | |||||||
| 11.0 | $11.97 | ||||||||||||
| Drive | Eckville Parking | 0.0 | |||||||||||
| Drive | 5.0 | I-78 Exit 11 | 5.0 | ||||||||||
| Down | Drive | 18.0 | US-22 | 23.0 | |||||||||
| 09:00 | Drive | 16.0 | PA-33 | 39.0 | |||||||||
| Drive | 24.0 | PA-611 | 63.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 4.0 | Water Gap Parking | 67.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 4.0 | PA-33 | 71.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 24.0 | US-22 | 95.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 16.0 | I-78 | 111.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 23.0 | Microtel #203 | 134.0 | $92.54 | |||||||||
| Lunch | Burger King | $5.72 | |||||||||||
| Lunch 2 | Wendy's | $6.72 | |||||||||||
| Resupply | Cabela's boots | $44.95 | |||||||||||
| Laundry | Microtel | $3.00 | |||||||||||
| 9:00 | Supper | Cracker Barrel | $14.77 | ||||||||||
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| Day | June | Tue | Activity | Miles | Location | Miles | Elev | Up | Down | Climbs | Hours | Temp | Cost |
| 5 | 20 | 5:30 | Up,pack&eat | Motel breakfast | $7.09 | ||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | Motel | |||||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | 5.0 | I-78 | 5.0 | |||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | 17.0 | I-78 Exit 11 PA-143 | 22.0 | |||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | 5.0 | PA-61 - PA-895 - r on ? to Eckville Parking | 27.0 | |||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | 5.0 | I-78 Exit 9 | 32.0 | |||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | 28.0 | I-81 | 60.0 | |||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | 22.0 | US-322 & US-22 | 82.0 | |||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | 6.0 | PA-225 | 88.0 | |||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | 2.0 | PA-325 | 90.0 | |||||||||
| 7:30 | Drive | 9.0 | AT Parking | 99.0 | |||||||||
| 9:20 | Backpack | PA-325, Clarks Valley | 62.0 | 550 | 73° | ||||||||
| Sun | Backpack | 3.0 | Stoney Mt; Horseshoe Trail | 65.0 | 1650 | ||||||||
| Up | Backpack | 3.4 | Yellow Springs Village Site | 68.4 | |||||||||
| 06:00 | Backpack | 0.8 | Cold Spring Trail | 70.7 | |||||||||
| Hike | 0.8 | Cold Spring | 71.5 | ||||||||||
| Lunch | 2 tortillas,cheese,salsa,3 cookies | ||||||||||||
| Backpack | 2.3 | Rausch Gap Shelter (S,w.3E) | 73.8 | 980 | |||||||||
| Backpack | 4.6 | PA-443; Green Point R | 78.4 | 480 | |||||||||
| 4:00 | Camp | 1.0 | Camp by stream | 65.6 | 1070 | 1990 | 2 | 6:00 | 77° | ||||
| Down | Hydrate | 2 cups each of ice tea,veg soup,bouillon,chocolate | |||||||||||
| 09:00 | 7:45 | Supper | 16.4 | Chicken Teriyaki,butterscotch pudding | 79° | ||||||||
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| Day | June | Wed | Activity | Miles | Location | Miles | Elev | Up | Down | Climbs | Hours | Temp | Cost |
| 6 | 21 | 5:42 | Up,pack&eat | GORP | |||||||||
| 6:24 | Backpack | Camp | 78.4 | 57° | |||||||||
| Sun | 07:30 | Backpack | 1.4 | Swatara Gap PA-72 (RCGLM 2E) | 79.8 | ||||||||
| Up | Backpack | 0.4 | I-81 | 80.2 | |||||||||
| 06:00 | 10:00 | Backpack | 6.9 | Blue Mt Spring, William Penn Shelter | 87.1 | 1380 | |||||||
| Backpack | 2.2 | PA-645 | 89.3 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 1.9 | PA-501 Pine Grove (POM3.7W;Sw.1W;G4.3W;L5.7W) | 91.2 | 73° | |||||||||
| Backpack | 0.5 | Trail to Pilger Ruth Spring (Cw) | 91.7 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 2.6 | Round Head & Shower Steps (w) | 94.3 | ||||||||||
| Lunch | 2 tortillas,cheese,salsa,3 cookies | 94.3 | |||||||||||
| Down | Backpack | 2.5 | Hertlein Campsite (Cw) | 96.8 | 77° | ||||||||
| 3:15 | Camp | 1.7 | Camp | 96.8.8 | 3200 | 2050 | 3 | 8:53 | |||||
| Hydrate | 2 cups each of ice tea,veg soup,bouillon,chocolate | ||||||||||||
| Supper | 18.4 | Beef Stroganoff,pistachio pudding | 72° | ||||||||||
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| Day | June | Thu | Activity | Miles | Location | Miles | Elev | Up | Down | Climbs | Hours | Temp | Cost |
| 7 | 22 | 5:12 | Up,pack&eat | GORP | |||||||||
| Sun | 5:45 | Backpack | Hertlein Campsite (Cw) | 96.8 | 70° | ||||||||
| Up | Backpack | 0.1 | Shuberts Gap | 96.9 | |||||||||
| 06:00 | Backpack | 3.3 | Ft Dietrich Snyder Marker (w.2W) | 100.2 | 2720 | Black snake | |||||||
| Backpack | 0.3 | PA-183 Rentschler Marker | 100.5 | 1440 | |||||||||
| Backpack | 1.3 | Black Swatara Spring (w.3W) | 101.8 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 3.8 | Sand Spring Trail (w.2E) | 105.6 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 0.7 | Eagle's Nest Shelter (Sw.3W) | 106.3 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 1.9 | Shartlesville Cross Mt Road (POGLM3.6E) | 108.2 | 91° | |||||||||
| 11:25 | Lunch | 2 tortillas,cheese,salsa,3 cookies | 108.2 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 2.7 | Phillip's Canyon Spring (w) | 110.9 | ||||||||||
| Backpack | 4.0 | Port Clinton (PO;LS.5W;GML3E) | 114.9 | ||||||||||
| 1:50 | Dinner | Port Clinton Hotel | 114.9 | 400 | $14.50 | ||||||||
| Backpack | 0.7 | PA-61 (M.5W) | 115.6 | ||||||||||
| 4:20 | Backpack | 2.6 | Pocahontas Spring (Cw;LM1E) | 118.2 | 2670 | ||||||||
| 09:00 | 5:55 | Camp | Pocahontas Spring (Cw;LM1E) | 118.2 | 3760 | 2750 | 3 | 9:40 | 81° | ||||
| Hydrate | 2 cups each of ice tea,veg soup,bouillon,chocolate | ||||||||||||
| Supper | 21.4 | Ham, cheese, macaroni, coconut cream pudding | |||||||||||
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| Day | June | Fri | Activity | Miles | Location | Miles | Elev | Up | Down | Climbs | Hours | Temp | Cost |
| 8 | 23 | 5:14 | Up,pack&eat | GORP | |||||||||
| Sun | 5:45 | Backpack | Camp | 118.2 | 68° | ||||||||
| Up | Backpack | 2.6 | Windsor Furnace (Cw.5E) | 120.8 | |||||||||
| 06:00 | Backpack | 0.2 | Windsor Furnace Shelter (Sw) | 121.0 | |||||||||
| Backpack | 1.6 | Pulpit Rock | 122.6 | 2676 | |||||||||
| Backpack | 1.8 | Trail to Blue Rocks Camp (CGS1.5E) | 124.4 | 940 | |||||||||
| Backpack | 0.4 | The Pinnacle | 124.8 | 1582 | |||||||||
| 9:53 | Backpack | 5.3 | Hawk Mountain Road, Eckville Shelter | 130.1 | 1470 | 1940 | 2 | 4:09 | |||||
| 11.9 | 130.1 | ||||||||||||
| Down | 4:00 | Drive | Hawk Mountain Road | ||||||||||
| 09:00 | Drive | 5.0 | PA-895 | 5.0 | |||||||||
| Drive | 5.0 | PA-61 | 10.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 14.0 | US-209 Pottsville | 24.0 | ||||||||||
| Brunch | Robin's Diner | 24.0 | $11.48 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 17.0 | PA-325 | 41.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 12.0 | AT parking - pick up car | 53.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 9.0 | PA-225 | 62.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 2.0 | US-322 & US-22 | 64.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 6.0 | I-81 | 70.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 2.0 | I-83 | 72.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 72.0 | I-695 | 144.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 8.0 | I-70 | 152.0 | ||||||||||
| Drive | 5.0 | US-29 | 157.0 | ||||||||||
| 7:25 | Drive | 7.0 | Home - Total 507.8 miles driven | 164.0 |
PACKING LIST
| Equipment | Wt-oz | Clothes | Wt | Food | Wt
| Backpack | 42.0 | Bermudas | 14.0 | Breakfast (3)
| Poles (2) | 17.0 | T-shirts (2) | 26.0 | Gorp (2) | 4.0
| Tent | 24.0 | Shorts (2) | 6.0 | Lunch (3) | 4.0
| Ground cloth | Socks (2) | 9.0 | Tortillas (8) | 4.0
| Pegs (8) | 4.0 | Liners (4) | 4.0 | Cheese (3) | 4.0
| Sleeping bag | 48.0 | Jacket | 22.0 | Salsa verde 7 oz | 16.0
| Silk liner | 4.0 | Camera | 4.0 | Cookies (9) | 12.0
| Mattress | 13.0 | Log,maps,etc | Dinner (3)
| Pot & lid | 8.0 | Beef spaghetti | Food 5 lbs
| Stove | 0.2 | Potato&beef | 9.0 | Clothes 2 lb 15 oz
| Fuel bottle | 1.0 | Rice,broccoli&ham | 8.0 | Pack w poles 23 lbs. no water
| Heet fuel | 12.0 | Pudding | 6.0
| Lighter | 0.5 | Chocolate | 10.0
| Soap | 4.0 | Pistachio | 8.0
| Dish towel | 0.2 | Coconut cream
| Towel | 1.0 | Hydration
| Iodine tabs | 1.0 | Coco (3)) | 4.0
| Spoon | 0.2 | Bouillon (3) | 1.0
| Micro multi tool | 3.0 | Chicken | 6.0
| Water bottle (2) | Beef
| Toilet paper | 7.0 | Tea (3)
| Sponge | 0.2 | Soup (3) | 3.0
| Light | 7.0 | Ice tea | 4.0
| Sew kit | 0.5 | Gatoraid | 5.0
| Duct tape | 1.0 |
| Tootbrush&paste | 4.0 |
| Cup | 5.0
| Ounces | 207.8 | 85.0 | 113.0
| Pounds | 12.99 | 5.31 | 7.06
| Wear | Resupply
| Montrail Boots | 40.0 | Heet fuel | 12.0
| Socks | 4.5 | Peanutbutter crackers (2)
| Liners | 2.0 | Gorp (2)
| Burmudas | 14.0 | Rice Teriyaki&ham | 4.0
| Shorts | 3.0 | Beef Stroganoff | 4.0
| Wicking T-shirt | 13.0 | Blueberry (2) | 4.0
| Altimeter watch | 3.0 | Turkey pasta | 4.0
| Tortillas (2) | 17.0
| Total | 79.5 | Cheese (1) | 13.0
| Pounds | 4.97 | Salsa verde 7 oz
| Soup (3)
| Bouillon (5)
| Coco (3)
| Pudding (3)
| Butterscotch
| Pistachio
| Coconut cream
| Tea (3)
| |
Last updated June 29, 2006