2005 TOUR DE FRANCE

This is the fourth and last leg of a six and a half week trip biking from Rome to Nice via Sardinia and Corsica, hiking the French Alps through the Grand Canyon and biking across France from Bordeaux to l’Alpe d’Huez. This trip I biked 180.6 miles in 5 days climbing 20,230’ over many famous cols much of it on the Tour de France route. I was able to see and experience the Tour on Corcheval and Galibier.

July 9   Saturday   Bike to Chalet in Vaujany

Got up at 7:15 and went downstairs to breakfast at 7:40. I had bread, butter, apricot jam, hot chocolate, orange juice milk, orange and an egg.

Walked around town going up to the plaza where I watched kids playing ice hockey in an outdoor rink. Stopped in Breton Photo and picked up my Alp d’Huez climb photo with the marmot for 14 € ($17.22) and bought a 125 megabyte SD card 42€ ($51.66) for my new digital camera so I can take pictures again. I bought a French international phone card for 7.50 € ($9.23) and called Anne at 12:00. Bought and ate a raspberry tarte 2.10 € ($2.58). Stopped in a cafe for a 7.50 € ($9.23) bikers lunch of pasta, a can of Kronenbourg and pear pie. Watched the early finishers of the Marmot bike race. The race is 180 km (111.6 miles) long over 3 cols climbing over 5000 m (16,404‘). I’m a little sad as Anne and Tony were going to ride in this race before her accident descending Alpe d’Huez yesterday. We still have no definitive word on Anne’s condition.

We gathered at the hotel at 3:00 and loaded our gear on the van. Chuck Corum, Clare Holdsworth, Wayne Whiting, Helen, Roger, Cindy LaMotte, Richard Fortune and I on our bikes followed Tony down the mountain to hairpin curve 5 where we turned right to Villard Reculas at 1480 m (4856‘). We biked along the cliff top which was spectacular. We had a nice descent to Lac du Verney and then up to Vaujany 1250 m (4101’). The climb was steep and I was in my granny gear. My rear derailleur was hitting the spokes on my rear wheel. It took a few stops for me to figure out the problem. Andrew Rowland came down in the sag car and sagged me up to Vaujany and the Belgian bar. We were all there and I had a .25 liter (8.5 oz) draft for 2.50 € ($3.08) while watching the Tour de France on TV until 5:00. The grade moderated somewhat so I biked without my granny gear up to our Chalet Domaigne in La Villette. I biked 14.53 miles (23 km) in 1:05:34 averaging 13.3 mph (21.5 kmph) climbing 1760’ (536 m) while descending 2480’ in 2 climbs.

My room is on the second floor with a skylight looking east, two beds, a shower and sink plus a large window. The scenery is fantastic out my skylight with the rimming mountains on three side and the beautiful high meadows leading up to the Col de Roget.

At 7:30 Suzie Coughey led us down a trail to the Le Remise restaurant on the plaza in Vaujany (Vo’ zhen nay). I had oir (light green liquor), red wine, bread, green salad, croziflette (scalloped potatoes, onions and bacon) and profiterolles (pastries with vanilla ice cream, chocolate syrup, whipped cream and almonds). 

July 10   Sunday   Rest Day in Vaujany

I awoke at 7:11 as the bakery man was delivering three large loaves of bread and bags of croissants and pastries with chocolate in them. I enjoyed the fresh bread, croissant, Alpen (granola cereal) strawberry jelly, butter, orange juice and milk. I started my laundry at 9:15. Chuck, Helen and Wayne were going to ride the lift in Vaujany. I was debating on going. Cindy said to go and she would take care of my laundry.

At 9:30 I hustled down to Vaujany catching the others at the lift. I paid 20.00 € ($24.60) for a ticket and boarded the large gondola for the 10:00 departure. The lift is the largest in Europe, holds about 50 people and cost 17,500,000 € so we were told. We left Vaujany 1250 m (4101’) rising to Alpette 2050 m (6726’). We changed to a much smaller gondola and continued up to Dome des Petites Rousseis 2810 m (9219’). It is cold and barren here as we walked about 25 minutes down and around the mountain to La Blanc 2620 m (8596’). We took the lift up to Pic Blanc 3330 m (10,925’). It is windy and cold with snow and ski runs on the back of the mountain. We stayed about 15 – 20 minutes until the next lift down to La Blanc 2620 m (8596’). We decided to take a circuitous route back so we took a lift down to Poultran II 2110 m (6922’). Here we changed lifts continuing down through Poultran to Oz en Oisans 1350 m (4429’). We walked through town to another lift taking it up to Alpette 2050 m (6726’). Changing lifts again we descended back to Vaujany 1250 m (4101’).

Stopped in the visitors center before walking up to the plaza and the Chez Peter at 12:30. Ate lunch gazing at the high waterfall tumbling down the mountainside across the valley.

I had a Crepe Parisienne (crepe with ham, cheese and mushrooms), Perrier and peach melba for 15.50 € ($19.07). Walked down to the Belgian bar to watch the Tour on TV with a .25 liter Jupiler draft for 2.50 € ($3.08) at 2:00. We walked up to the Le Char Bleu below our chalet in La Villette for a .25 liter draft 2.50 € and to watch the days Tour leg finish. At 4:45 I walked back on the path to the Vaujany plaza to buy two chocolate almond bars 2.90 €, potato chips 1.20 €, cashews 1.59 €, bananas and Bing cherries .70 € at the Spar store for 6.39 € ($7.86). Tony put my new tire and adjusted the rear deraileur on my bike.

At 7:30 we walked a few steps down to the Le Char Bleu for supper. I had red wine (rouge vin), bread, salad (challots,lettuce, eggplant, tomato sauce and cheese), salmon (sauman) in sauce with mussels and calimari, rice, ratituie and creme brulee.

July 11   Monday   Bike Vaujany to St Francois Longchamp

Got up at 7:08 for my usual breakfast of Alpen, milk, orange juice, croissant, bread, butter and jelly. Left my backpack with a few clothes in it to be loaded on the van.

At 9:36 I biked from the chalet down through Vaujany 4 miles turning right on D526. I started climbing rather steeply for 21 km (12.7 miles) with a short dip in the middle. After the dip the grades were 10 – 12% until I passed a hydroelectric dam near the top. I climbed 925 m (3035’) to Col du Glandon. It is 12:00 and 2.5 km to Col du Croix de Fer (Iron Cross Pass) 2067 m (6781’) so I continue straight on a gradual climb to the col. I returned to Col du Glandon 1924 m (6312’) and descended steeply down 13% a switchbacked narrow road with large cracks running parallel with me in some places. There were some very long sheer drop offs to my right. I think about the Tour de France racing on this road in 3 days and realize how scary it must be. I descended to a bar in St Alban and stop for a Perrier 2.50 €. I continued down to St Elianne de Cuines where I stop for lunch at Le Relais du Glandon with everyone else at 2:00. I had carrot, tomato and egg salad, linguini and raspberry ice cream for 11.50 € ($14.15). The long stop is not good as I shut down and it got hotter in the afternoon.

We crossed the river into La Chambre 400 m (1312’) and started the long 13 km (8 mile) steep climb up 1050 m (3445’) towards Col de Madeleine. It is a slow grind it out climb and I am bent over and sweating heavily. My computer quits so I think the battery is dead which is no problem because I have a spare in my pack. I finally arrive in St Francoise Longchamp 1450 m (4757’) at 5:00 and Helen walked down to direct me up the right street. I biked 43.66 miles (70 km) in 4:15:37 averaging 9.5 mph (15 kmph) reaching a maximum 32.0 mph (52 kmph) climbing 7850’ (2392 m) while descending 7620’ (2323 m) in 4 climbs.

I inhaled a .5 liter (16.9 oz) draft for 5.00 €. I got my bike to move it inside for the night and took the computer off for the data. The computer socket was full of water, sweat, and that is why it stopped. I picked up my bags and checked into the Hotel Airelles room 10 or the Ecurevil (try remembering that name when you are hot and tired – it means squirrel) room on the third floor with Wayne Whiting. We had no towels so I went down to the lobby for some and the lady thought I had been in the shower I was so wet. At 8:00 we had dinner in the hotel. I had red wine, lettuce, tomato and ham salad, tarteflette (scalloped potatoes with onions and ham) our group’s favorite and ice cream cake in celebration of Richie’s 36th birthday.

I chuckle as I look at my cue sheet because today is listed as a rest day as we climbed 7850’ (2392 m) the most to date since leaving Rome over a month ago.

July 12   Tuesday   Tour de France up Courchevel

Got up at 7:35 and went downstairs to breakfast of orange juice, milk, croissant, bread, jam and cantalope.

Biked from the hotel at 9:30. It is cool and shady as I ascend 4.9 more miles rising 534 m (1752’) to Col de Madeleine 1984 m (6509’). That is quite a climb when coupled with yesterday’s climb to the hotel. I descended steeply for 25 km (15.5 miles) before turning right along the river to Moutiers. Stopped in a large grocery store for milk, banana and a peach. The Tour is passing here today so the crowds are large. I biked up Courchevel 8 km intending to stop at the first bar with a bathroom and TV.

I rounded a curve and Tony, Clare and Wayne called me down at a bar at 12:50. After 20 minutes they decided to ride up higher because the bar had no TV. I decided to stay and was joined by Suzie, Andrew and Chuck. We are located at 20 km from the finish line. I spent about 4 hours there and had a Perrier 2.50 €, a salad plate (cous cous, potatoes, lettuce, pasta) 7.00 € and 4 beers 10.00 €. I saw the team buses go by in caravan and then team cars and official cars. The vendors started coming in their crazy mobiles and floats. Most had young ladies throwing goodies of every discription to the spectators lining the road. This lasted probably an hour with everyone caught up in retrieving the stuff. After a long time I could hear and see the helicopters coming up the mountain with two hovering a few feet above the leaders and 4 or 5 higher up acting as signal relay helicopters.

Suddenly the police escort came around the curve followed by the leaders. In pursuit was the peleton with 6 Discovery teammates surrounding Lance leading the peleton. It took a long time for the other groups of riders to pass. The prized goodie was a team waterbottle thrown by one of the riders. Chuck got one.

After the sweep police cars passed the crowd broke up and headed back down the mountain. I hustled down through the crowds and traffic to Moutier where we agreed to meet in a parking lot. I was fortunate to be shuttled back to the hotel with Sylvia and Richie in the van. It was an exciting ride going back up Col de Madeleine in the traffic hustling to get position for tomorrows Tour ride over the col. We arrived at the hotel at 6:48. I biked 36.94 miles in 2:55:00 averaging 12.6 mph reaching a maximum 37.5 mph climbing more than 2000’. I needed an easy day because yesterday was very tough and tomorrow will be even tougher.

We were surprised by having Anne at the hotel with George who flew over from Grand Junction, Colorado to help her recover from her accident. Showered and went to supper at 8:30 as everyone was not back yet. I had red wine, bread, pate, chicken, spaghetti and cream filled cake.

July 13   Wednesday   Tour de France to Vaujany Chalet

Got up at 7:08 and packed up. Went down to breakfast of cantalope, hot chocolate, orange juice, bread, butter, strawberry jam and a croissant. Today the Tour route comes up over Col de Madeleine, past our hotel , up Telegraph and finally Col du Galibier. We are riding the course from our hotel to Telegraph, over Col du Galibier and down to Col du Lautaret.

I biked from the hotel at 8:30 descending from Col de Madeleine to La Chambre 12.5 km across the river and then along the river rising slightly for 25 km to St Michel.

I started climbing Col du Telegraph 1566 m (5138’) on a very twisting road. The crowds are quite large and I get several allezs. People are painting the road and I ran through wet paint 2 or 3 times coloring my tires. I reached Telegraph and the crowds are so massive I had to stop and walk through the crowd. I couldn’t see anything although the view is supposed to be spectacular. Once through the crowd I mounted my bike and descended a few hundred meters to a very crowded but picturesque village of Velloire.

I stopped at a Casino for a liter of milk, corn curls which I thought were chips, a nectarine and a sandwich for 6.40 € at 12:20. I didn’t want to take too much time and I didn’t want to eat too much so I never finished my sandwich and ate few corn curls.

I started up Galibier before 1:00 climbing up a treeless valley getting ever steeper. I passed a bar on the left and started up a series of switchbacks. The crowd lining the road is getting larger and the scenes back down the valley more spectacular. I plan to stop at a bar on the right within sight of the top that Anne told me about. George caught me about 8 km from the top and asked when I was stopping. We went on another kilometer but I began to think that the bar I already passed was the one Anne was referring to. We came to a good vantage point around a switchback and high on a bank above the road. We stopped for almost two hours and watched the spectacle go by, a repeat of yesterday but much livelier with the larger crowd in a festive mood. I caught the eye of a guy on a float and he sent a pack of crackers and cheese in a perfect lob shot into my hand. George and I enjoyed a snack.

We decided we were not to the bar yet so we continued up another kilometer or so and found the bar 3 km from the top. We stopped for a Perrier and Coke for 4.00 €. We can see the top with the massive crowds. We decided to ride up some more nearing the very top where the grade is 14%. I almost ran over a drunk in a German flag who ran at me extending a large beer bottle and yelling something unintelligable. We found a good spot and watched the helicopters slowly ascending the mountain above the riders. We could see the riders coming for a mile or more. Venicurov led the way past us with Lance and four Discovery teammates leading a small peleton in pursuit. We followed the first group on our bikes but didn’t get far as the crowds and gendarmes prevented us from proceeding. We ran into Chuck briefly. When the last group passed with the trailing escort it became complete bedlam. I had to work my way through the masses walking my bike and losing sight of George and Chuck.

I passed Col du Galibier 2556 m (8386’) and shortly mounted my bike but it was scary riding down with all the bikes, vehicles and pedestrians. It’s a miracle no one got killed. I rode my brakes all the way to Col du Lautaret where I turned right on N91. The scene got even worse as frustrated drivers drove too fast when they broke loose through droves of bicycles also going too fast and too close together. I descended quickly for 35 km with 4 km of climbing thrown in. I passed through many tunnels, through some rain and along a lake to Bourg. I stopped to check the map and Chuck came up. We rode together and biked to Allemont at the bottom of the climb to Vaujany. I biked 80.65 (130 km) miles in 7:06:16 averaging 11.3 mph (18 kmph) reaching a maximum 38.0 mph (61 kmph) climbing 8120’ (2475 m) while descending 10, 320’ (3146 m) in 4 climbs.

I called Suzie and Chuck and I sat outside a bar and drank .5 liter beers in celebration of our survival today. Andrew showed up in the car and we backtracked to Bourg to pick up Wayne. Arrived at the chalet at 8:48. We walked to the Chardin Bieu next to chalet for supper at 9:15. I had red wine, seafood salad, beef, pasta in sauce, ice cream and a tart. Back at the chalet I showered and fell asleep.

July 14   Thursday   Vaujany

Got up at 7:30 for breakfast of Alpen, orange juice, milk, croissant, bread, butter and jam. Followed the trail out of La Villette up to the Cascade de la Fare. It was neat standing beside the falls across the valley from Vaujany watching the water fall several hundred feet. I returned to La Villette a round trip of about 3 miles. Walked the trail down to Vaujany about a kilometer and found the shops open on Bastille Day the French holiday equivalent to our Independence Day. I went in to the Sport 2000 shop and found a nice bike shirt with Col du Glandon and Col du Croix de Fer for 39.00 € ($47.97). Stopped in the Spar for a liter of St Yorre gaseous water, banana and a nectarine for 1.39 €. Saw Tony sitting in a cafe in the plaza so we had a draft .25 liter Jupiler.

At 12:25 I called Anne and left a message. Tony returned from a walk and we decided to have lunch as it was quite pleasant here. I had a Perrier, salade Nicoise (tuna, anchovies, potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce and eggs) and white wine, our bill totaled 29.00 €. The Tour de France came on the TV so we watched it with a .5 liter draft Jupiler and then a .25 liter Jupiler. Walked back to the chalet on the path. The group returned to Vaujany via the path at 7:40. We ate supper at the La Remise. I had red wine, salad (walnuts, cheese, lettuce, olives and ham), Remise pizza (onion, mushroom, sausage and pepper) and vanilla ice cream. What a pleasant and relaxing day!

July 15   Friday   Bus to Grenoble

Got up at 7:18 for breakfast of Alpen, orange juice, milk, croissant, bread, butter and jam. At 8:30 I biked up the narrow and rough road 5.25 miles to it’s dead end at the Col de Roget 2500’ above our chalet. I had spectacular views over the col at our route of 3 days ago when I biked over Col du Glandon. The view back down towards our chalet was even more spectacular. Biked back down to the chalet crossing three nasty cattle guards. I biked 10.54 miles in 1:51:32 averaging 5.6 mph reaching a maximum 24.0 mph climbing and descending 2500’ in 1 climb.

At 11:00 I took my bike apart and packed it in it’s box, packed my gear and showered. At 12:45 Wayne, Chuck and I walked to the Chardin Bieu for Perrier, salmon, rattituie, rice, creme Brulee and a beer for 14.00 €. At 3:00 Marius shuttled us in a van to the highway where we caught a bus at 4:00 to Grenoble at 5:20.

I bought a train ticket for tomorrow from Grenoble to Valence to Nice for 86.00 € and got 200.00 € from an ATM. Walked to a store for a banana, nectarine, grapes, and water 4.26 €. Found a Spar store for two chocolate almond bars and cashews at 4.20 € for the train tomorow. Bought a cold 1664 beer for 2.30 €. I am in room 306 in the Hotel Suisse with Chuck as a roommate. At 8:15 Helen, Wayne, Roger, Chuck, Clare, Cindy, Richard and I walked to the Brasseur sidewalk cafe for red wine, bread, salad (lettuce, cucumber and tomato), chicken, French fries and vanilla ice cream for 21.00 €. We stopped at a bar for a beer with Andrew, Suzie and Tony.

July 16   Saturday   Train Grenoble to Valence to Montpelier to Nice

Got up at 5:50 for orange juice, hot chocolate, croissant, bread and yogurt. At 7:05 walked a couple of blocks to the train station. Train departed at 8:17 arriving in Valence. Transferred to the wrong train a TGV to Montpilier and departed at 9:47. 1:00 bought ticket to Nice 43.10 €. Boarded a very crowded train falling and badly scraping my shin on my bike box which departed 30 minutes late at 3:10 arriving in Nice at 7:55. Took a taxi with a driver from Corsica to the Kyriad Hotel for 18.00 € plus 2.00 € tip. Kyriad cancelled my reservation and made a reservation next door at the Comfort Inn. I checked in to room 314 for 68.00 €. At 9:00 I walked to the La Grange for two .5 liter Pellegrini, salad mozzarella (cheese, tomato, lettuce and olives), pizza with olives and apple cream pie for 16.90 €.

July 17   Sunday   Fly Nice via London to Baltimore

Got up at 4:30 and packed up. The hotel clerk called me a taxi and we left at 5:00 arriving at the airport at 5:20 for 35.00 € plus 5.00 € tip. I had a muffin, orange juice and milk for 7.60 €.

I boarded British Air flight 341 in seat 17F that took off at 8:10 flying over the Alps with snow capped Mt Blanc sticking way up higher than the rest to London Heathrow Airport at 9:00 an hour and 50 minute flight. I was served a ham and cheese pocket, pineapple, muffin and milk in flight.

I ate a chicken sandwich, potato chips and orange juice at the Pret for £5.69. While waiting to board my flight to Baltimore I ran into Allan Scott, a doctor returning from a conference in London, who I know from the St Andrews Society.

I boarded British Air flight 229 seat 22B that took off 1:05 arriving in Baltimore at 4:10. I quickly cleared immigration picking up my bike, hockey bag and backpack before passing through customs. Anne picked me up after a slight mix up and we arrived home in Columbia in the oppressive heat and humidity about 6:00.