2005 HIKE PROVENCE

This is the second leg of a six and a half week bike and hike tour of Italy and France. On this leg I hiked for 6 days on the Grand Randonnee 4 (GR4) in the Alps of Provence, France. I backpacked 62.7 miles in 43:42 hours climbing 11,860 feet and descending 12,830 feet. I hiked through great rugged Alpine scenery highlighted by the Gorge Verdon known as the Grand Canyon of France. I stayed in small hotels taking my suppers and breakfasts where I stayed. I enjoyed many fine red wines and local cuisine. I carried bread, cheese and fruit with water for lunch each day

June 19, 2005 Sunday Train Nice to St Andre les Alpes, Provence

Got up at 6:55 and went to breakfast of bread, cressant, orange juice, milk, fruit salad, butter and a crepe. Packed my backpack for a week of backpacking. Put my tent and hockey bag in my bike box to go back to the UK with my assembled bike. They will be in Bordeaux on Saturday. Made a reservation for this hotel the Kyriad for Saturday July 16 the day before I fly home from Nice.

Walked from the hotel at 9:50. Stopped in a Spar to buy 1.5 liters (57.1 oz) of water and cashews for 1.30 Euros (€) ($1.60). Stopped in a patisserie for a strawberry tarte 2.50 € ($3.08). Walked about 10 blocks to Chemins de Fer de Provence Gare arriving at 10:20. Bought a ticket to St Andres les Alpes for 9.90 € ($12.25). Called Anne at 12:05. Boarded the one car narrow gage electrified train and departed at 12:43 arriving in St Andres les Alpes at 3:16.

The station was deserted except for three other people who got off the train and quickly disappeared. It was raining so I waited under the roof until it quit. I turned the wrong way up a hill until I realized it was wrong. I asked a person and they confirmed I was going in the wrong direction. I returned to the station and walked the one kilometer down the hill to the Hotel Lac et Foret at 4:00 and checked into room 3 for 50.40 € ($61.84). The hotel is located at 43° 57.604 N by 6° 29.750 W at an elevation of 2880’ (878 m).

The people and the hotel are very nice. My room and bathroom are large but rustic with creaking wood floors. I washed my clothes and showered. The electric went off for several minutes and the lights kept flickering as a series of thunderstorms passed through. The hotel is in a valley near Lac de Foret surrounded by mountains. Nothing seemed to interfere with the soccer games in progress about 300 yards from my open window. It was raining at 7:00 so a friend of the hotel owners drove me about Ό a mile to the Hotel Bel Air which I walked past earlier. I had a 400 ml (15.2 oz) Fischer draft beer, pate, bread, scalloped potatoes, pork steak with mushrooms in a creme sauce, grilled tomatoes with cheese and a green spice, strawberry cream pie and a decanter of red wine for 16 € ($19.76) plus 2 € ($2.46) tip. It was an excellent meal and very reasonable. A man from the restaurant drove me back to my hotel as it was still raining.

June 20, 2005 Monday Hike St Andre les Alpes to Castellane, Provence

Got up at 6:45 in 63° (17° C) with the barometer at 27.05” and packed up my backpack. Went to breakfast on the patio at 8:00. I had to wait while my bread and cressant was baked. I was served orange juice, pot of hot chocolate, 2 hot fresh baked hard rolls and a cressant (the best ever), butter and jam. It was delightful sitting outside in the cool mountain air with the sun slowly warming up, a great breakfast and the congenial owner and his wife. Walked to the Spar near by. Outside there was an English hiking group of 16 with a woman leader. I bought sun screen 21.50 € ($26.45), 2 large milk chocolate almond bars 2.39 € ($2.94), banana 0.39 € ($0.48), cheese 2.65 € ($3.26), nectarine 0.35 € ($0.43), orange 0.77 € ($0.95), tomato 0.31 € ($0.38), bread 0.95 € ($1.17), eight AA batteries 2.78 € ($3.42) and cashews 2.90 € ($3.57) all totaling 34.93 € ($42.96). It is 78°(31° C).

I returned to my hotel and the trailhead for the Grand Randonnee 4 (GR4) marked by a small horizontal white bar over a red bar. I would follow this trail all week. I began climbing immediately frequently crossing a dirt road. I soon caught the hiking group and talked to an English woman and a Frenchman at the rear of the group. There are 13 English, 2 Americans and a Frenchman plus two English guides. I passed the group and continued to climb to the top of the ridge at Las Chougas. It is very confusing here as I started out 3 times and had to retrace my steps. The hiking group arrived and I talked to the leader Pip Line of Explore adventure travel. Pip explained how to get through the next several turns which saved me temporarily. I turned on the La Baume trail with its large red blaze. I hiked to a junction in the trail where I stopped for lunch of cheese, bread, tomato, orange and nectarine.

I hiked down a short distance seeing strange sculptures scattered around the mountain. I came to a fence with no gate and no way around it. I turned back up the mountain taking the other fork climbing about 2 kilometers (1.24 miles) until it endend in a clearing. I had to retrace back to the fence and climb over it soon entering the Holy City of Mandarom. It has a large king like figure several stories high and is the world headquarters for some international religion.

I foolishly asked some Dutch tourists for directions which sent me in the wrong dirction again for about two kilometers. Returned to La Baume and started descending on the trail. At 3:00 there was a thunderstorm making everything wet including me. I turned left on a dirt road by a stone wall which turned into a path and descended into Castellane. I reached my Hotel de Commerce and checked into room 1 for 80.70 € ($99.01) including supper and breakfast at 4:50. I ran into some of the hiking group staying in the same hotel. The hotel is located at 43° 50.773 N by 6° 30.508 E at 2360’ (719 m) elevation. Today I hiked 16.74 miles in 8:02 hours climbing 2960’ in 4 climbs while descending 3480’ (1061 m).

I walked to the La Taverne on the town square for a 500 ml (17.7 oz) draft Blanche du Burges beer for 5.60 € ($6.89). At 7:30 I had dinner of 1664 beer, water, cold tomato and onion soup, marinated beef and lettuce, beef steak, three potato slices, one asparagus shoot, three apple slices, three cheeses and bread in the hotel.

June 21, 2005 Tuesday Hike Castellane to Pointe Sublime, Provence

Got up at 6:50 packed backpack in 63° (17° C) at 2360’ (719 m) elevation. The breakfast of orange juice, hot chocolate, bread, cressant, butter, jam and yogurt at 8:00. Stopped at a Mini Casino across the street from the hotel and bought a banana, nectarine, apple and tomato for 1.85 € ($2.28).

At 8:50 I walked across the square out of town on a long gradual climb. Arrived at the Chapelle St Jean 3250’ (991 m) at 10:38. I walked on the narrow ridge behind the chapel which is a prominatory enjoying the great views back down the valley I just hiked up through. As I neared the village of Chasteuil 2970’ (905 m) I passed 3 couples hiking in the opposit direction. I entered the village at 11:34 and stopped at the potters house for an Orangina 2 € ($2.46). I watched the father make some pottery with two Dutch ladies also hikers. The father and his wife, their son and his wife are all artisans involved in making pottery. I continued up at 11:44 in some shade. I saw many pale lavender butterflies. There are bushes 4-5’ tall with leaves like dill covered in yellow blossoms everywhere. These bushes were prevelant everwhere I hiked all week. Reached the top and stopped for lunch by a stone house in ruins 4090’ (1247 m) in 84° (29° C) at 12:49. A couple and a guy all day hikers passed as I ate bread, cheese, tomato, nectarine and an apple.

Crossed a high grassy plain to some high voltage power lines 3970’ (1210 m) at 1:32. There are great views to my right up the valley, across the valley and to my left down the valley. I can see the small opening to the Gorge Verdon, the Grand Canyon of France. I turn left descending down switchbacked paths and dirt road to Rougon. The church bells chimed 2:00 as I entered the village. I stopped in the Epicirie La Terrace to buy a nectarine, two bananas, apple and tomato 2.46 € ($3.03) for tomorrow’s lunch. The man was very helpful and friendly. He owns the store and restaurant next door since last year and is open 6:00 am to 2:00 am June through September. At 2:20 a brilliant 30 minute thunderstorm rolled through so I waited it out with a young man and his young son under the roof covering the town’s watering troughs by the parking lot. I continued down until 3:10 arriving at the Auberge du Pointe Sublime located at 43° 47.663 N by 6° 23.908 E at 2335’ (712 m) and checked into room 15 for 79 € ($96.48) including breakfast, dinner and some beer. I walked 10.54 miles (17 km) in 6:21 hours climbing 2460’ (750 m) in two climbs while descending 2110’ (643 m).

Walked to Le’zard Pointe at the mouth of the Gorge Verdon. Drank a 250 ml (8.9 oz) Karlsbrau draft in the auberge. I went to dinner of water, 330 ml (11.7 oz) Pelsforth Brune (brown), red wine, bread, pate’, large vegetable soup, lamb, French fries, terrine (tomato paste), three cheeses with bread at 7:00.

June 22, 2005 Wednesday Hike Pointe Sublime to La Palud

Got up at 6:29 in 46° (8° C)and packed backpack. At 7:30 I had hot chocolate, mango? juice, bread, butter, jam, cressant and vanilla yogurt.

Hiked down steeply 450’ (137 m) along a rock cliff face at 8:12 to the parking lot next to the river at 8:41. Crossing two small footbridges I hiked through a 2198’ (670 m) tunnel that was very dark and water on the floor in many places. Exited the tunnel at 9:03 at 2060’ (628 m) elevation. Passed through a second short tunnel hiking along the river with the beautiful and exciting scenery up the narrow high walled gorge. Climbed many very steep stairs over point of Breche Imbert 2280’ (695 m) at 11:00. The trail is rough but exciting with cables and rebar in places as well as more steps. The trail got crowded with many couples, school groups and other groups. Reached the trail junction 2010’ (613 m) at 12:10 and stopped for lunch of bread, cheese, tomato, nectarine and apple.

At 2:34 I turned from the river and started the long hot climb up 900’ (274 m) to La Maline 2900’ (884 m). I reached the canyon rim in 91° (33° C) at 1:20 and stopped in the bar for a 330 ml Perrier for 3 € ($3.69). I started walking along the spectacular gorge rim road at 1:34 for 5 kilometers before turning up a small side canyon towards La Palud. Near town I saw a very bright green almost florescent lizard 9-12” (30.5 cm) long and 1-1.5” (3.8 cm) in diameter scamper along beside the road. I entered La Palud 3040’ (927 m) at 3:11 and stopped for a 250 ml (8.9 oz) draft Jupiler for 2 € ($2.46). I backpacked 12.1 miles (19.5 km) in 7:13 climbing 2850’ (869 m) in 4 climbs while descending 2430’ (741 m).

Checked into Hotel Le Provence La Palud room 8 for 71.60 € ($87.56) including supper, beer, wine and breakfast. The hotel is located at 43° 46.774 N by 6° 20.455 E. Washed my clothes, showered and shaved. Pip Line’s British hiking group pulled in in a van and checked into the hotel. Walked to La Boutique to buy a banana, cheese, pear, tomatoes, nectarine, cashews and 1.25 liter (44 oz) carbonated water for 8.25 € ($10.15). Stopped at a patisserie for a fruit tarte and baguette for 1.85 € ($2.28). Drank a 330 ml (11.7 oz) Karlsbrau before dinner. Had a buffet salad bar and soup, coq a vin, potatoes and chocolate mousse with red wine for dinner at 7:05. Everything was very good. Talked to the British hiking group.

June 23, 2005 Thursday Hike La Palud to Moustiers St Marie

Got up at 6:29 and packed my backpack. At 7:28 ate breakfast of orange juice, bread, cressant, butter and jam.

Hiked up 1490’ (454 m) over 1.86 miles (3 km) from the hotel at 8:12 to the trail junction at 4477’ (1365 m) in 77° (25° C) at 9:28. I had some doubts navigating through the woods but put them aside and came out right remaining on the trail until I saw confirming trail markers. I reached Plein Voir 3780’ (1152 m) at 11:05 with the great overviews of Lac de Ste Croix in the valley. I descended briefly under the power lines before climbing steeply to the top of a rocky ridge 3880’ (1183 m) at 11:37. It is hot. At 12:16 I reached a scenic overlook 3120’ (951 m) and started descending steeply down the mountainside on a rocky switchbacked trail. I stopped for lunch in 88° (31° C) on a shady switchback 2990’ (911 m) at 12:30. I ate bread, cheese, tomato, pear and nectarine.

Continuing down I reached the road 1780’ (543 m) to Moustiers in 84° (29° C) at 1:33. I soon turned off the road onto paved country lanes along a stream up into Moustiers 2060’ (628 m)in 86° (30° C) at 2:22. I checked into La Bonne Auberge Chez Benoit room 6 for 75 € ($91.71) located at 43° 50.566 N by 6° 13.157 E. I hiked 11.5 miles (18.5 km) climbing 2480’ (756 m) in 2 climbs while descending 3410’ (1039 m). Showered and washed clothes. Walked to the Sarl Chez Benoit for a 500 ml draft Stella Artois (established in 1366) for 4.20 € ($5.17) plus 0.50 € tip. Stopped in the 8A Huit store for a liter Perrier 0.90 €, 100 grams (3.5 oz) potato chips .69 €, banana 0.40 €, nectarine .54 € and an apple 0.45 €. At 7:20 went to supper of red wine, bread, pate’, broccoli, vegetable and pasta soup, rabbit, potatoes and pistachio ice cream in orange sauce all very good.

June 24, 2005 Friday Hike Moustiers St Marie to Riez

Got up at 7:04 and packed my backpack. Went ot breakfast of orange juice, bread, cressant, butter and jelly at 8:00.

Hiked from the auberge at 8:35 down the hill, across the stream and up the 500’ (152 m) escarpment reaching the plateau 2560’ (780 m) in 81° (27° C) at 9:27 on the GR4. Passed the reservoir and turned right at 9:58 passing many bee hives, fields of lavender and wheat and eventually apple orchards. Took a sharp left turn onto a dirt track at 10:55. I descended into Roumoules 1980’ in 87° (31° C) at 11:34. I was going to stop for a drink or ice cream but the two bars didn’t look inviting so I continued. There was a gradual climb out of Roumoules to another plateau 2220’ (677 m) where I turned left on another dirt track. This lead to the Ste Maxime Chapelle in a grove of large trees above Riez. I descended into Riez 1780’ (543 m) in 88° (31° C) at 12:46. I stop under the roof over the water troughs by the church on the town square for lunch. I ate bread cheese, tomato, apple and nectarine. I hiked 11.78 miles (19 km) in 4:23 climbing 1110’ (338 m) in 3 climbs while descending 1400’ (427 m).

I am scheduled to meet my taxi at 3:00. I tried to call the taxi with my phone card but failed. I walked to a cafe for a draft 1664 for 2 € ($2.46). I asked the bartender how to call my taxi. The driver is a friend of the bartender so he called the taxi on his cell phone and said he would pick me up in 30 minutes. I ordered a banana split 6 € and the taxi arrived before I finished. Jean Robert di Nicola picked me up at 2:10 and drove me 77 kilometers (47.7 miles) to Aix du Provence for 125 € ($153.75) plus 5 € tip. Jean is a young man whose English is not great but we had a good conversation as he drove. As a businessman, he did not see things like we perceive French views as presented on TV.

Jean dropped me off at Hotel Augustins in Aix en Provence at 3:15. I checked into room 202 for 118.80 € ($147.27). I showered and washed my hiking clothes. The clerk, who I think is one of the owners, made train reservations for tomorrow from Aix via Marseilles to Nice by the internet and delivered them to my room. He was very helpful and nice. I walked to the train station about 4 blocks to pick up my tickets and paid 62 € ($75.81). I stopped in a sidewalk cafe for a SAS Pils for 2.50 €. Went to a Casino to buy a liter of carbonated water, potato chips and cashews for 2.50 €. Stopped in the La Jardiniere for a banana 0.42 €, tomato 0.32 €, peach 0.45 € and Bing cherries 1.10 €. About 7:00 I walked the back streets to a small square with a fountain and many ethnic restaurants. I stopped at the Edykos Greek restaurant for dinner at 26.50 € ($32.40) in the square next to the fountain. I had a 250 ml (8.5 oz) draft 1664 at 3.50 €, 250 ml (8.5 oz) red wine at 5 € ($6.15), salad (lettuce, tomato, onion, olives, pepper and feta cheese), bread, mousaka, parfait and ice cream at 18 € ($22.14) on the set menu.

Aix en Provence is a small city with many fountains, wide tree lined streets and nicely preserved old town. It is a very popular tourist destination and consequently very crowded, expensive and English is spoken by many people.

DAILY STATISTICS

Hours

Feet

Feet

June

Day

From

To

Miles

Hike

Up

Down

Climbs

Lodging

19

Sun

Train

Nice

St Andre les Alpes

2.00

Hotel Lac et Foret

20

Mon

Hike

St Andre les Alpes

Castellane

16.7

8:02

2960

3480

4

Nouvel.Hotel.du.Commerce

21

Tue

Hike

Castellane

Rougon

10.5

6:21

2460

2110

2

Auberge du Pointe Sublime

22

Wed

Hike

Rougon

La Palud

12.1

7:13

2850

2430

4

Hotel Le Provence

23

Thu

Hike

La Palud

Moustiers.St.Marie

11.5

6:14

2480

3410

2

Hotel La Bonne Auberge

24

Fri

Hike

Moustiers.St.Marie

Riez

11.8

4:23

1110

1400

3

24

Fri

Taxi

Riez

Aix en Provence

47.7

Hotel Augustins

Total

62.7

43:42

11860

12830

28