BIKE ROME TO NICE

VIA SARDINIA & CORSICA

On June 2 I flew from Baltimore to Rome starting a six and a half week journey biking from Rome to Nice, hiking the French Alps through the Gorge Verdon, biking Bordeaux to Alpe d’Huez and finally biking some of the Tour de France routes, climbing over some cols and watching the tour for two days.

The journey began biking from Rome to the port city of Civitavecchia and taking an overnight ferry to Cagliari on the southern tip of Sardinia. We biked north basically along the east coast of Sardinia for 5 days. We biked about 275 miles (445 km) over some mountainous terrain climbing almost 16,000 vertical feet (4875 m). The first day was hot with the temperature reaching 92° (33° C) but the weather was generally quite pleasant with not enough rain while biking to get wet. The road surfaces were good with little to moderate traffic except for about 10 miles around the capitol Olbia. The people are friendly and helpful. The food is good with an Italian theme but different slightly influenced by French cuisine. The flowers were spectacular especially the oleander and everywhere. The scenery was very good along the beaches and in the mountains.

A short ferry ride brought us to Corsica and the stunning city of Bonafacio. The old city and fortifications sit atop the high cliffs with the port and new city strung around the inlet accessed by a narrow almost invisible crack in the cliff face. We biked about 320 miles over mostly mountainous terrain climbing 25,420’ (7748 m) in 7 days of biking. We biked mainly in the interior often ending on the coast to spend the night. The terrain was more rugged than Sardinia and the mountains higher. Our route took us through some spectacular scenery including cols, canyons, rock formations and beaches with cliffs and mountains reaching the sea. The flowers were varied and abundant but not as prevalent as in Sardinia. The roads were good. The people were courteous and helpful but more reserved than the Sardinians. The food was good and French with a strong Italian influence. The sea is a beautiful dark blue and warm so we ended our biking with a swim at our hotel on the beach in northern Corsica.

June 2 Thursday Fly Baltimore to London

I got up at 5:51 and ran my regular 5.1 mile course for the last time for almost 7 weeks. After breakfast of orange juice, banana, oatmeal, home made toast with butter and raspberry jam and milk, I showered and got ready to travel. I finished packing my bike, hockey bag and 3000³” backpack remembering many small but critical items. At 12:00 Anne and I drove to Ruby Tuesday’s for a Tilapia burger, French fries and ice tea for $32.74 including both meals and tip. I strapped the wheels on my bike box and loaded it easily into the back of my 1996 Mazda 626. At 5:05 I drove to Baltimore Washington International Airport (BWI) arriving at 5:29.

I removed the wheels from my bike box and put them in the hockey bag and was checked in by 5:40 with no line and no charge for my bicycle. My bike box weighed 23.35 kilograms (51.5 lbs), the hockey bag 10.05 kg (21.2 lbs) and my backpack 7.5 kg (16.5 lbs). Going through security there was no line and no problem although I had to remove my shoes. I bought a chicken salad croissant, Snapple peach ice tea and a bag of Lays barbecue chips at the International Cafe for $10.88. I got a bag of peanut M&Ms at Hudson News for $0.89. I talked to Sanford Lambert, who I met this spring on Bike Florida, and Janet Brown flying to Prague to bike Suzie Knable’s Czech Bike Ride.

At gate E1 I boarded British Air flight 228 a Boeing 767-300 in seat 22F and we took off on time at 8:35 pm on a 3636 mile flight in 7:30 hours to London. Sanford sat across the eisle from me so we talked some in flight. I was served bread stiicks and a Bloody Mary mix followed by dinner of water, red wine, beef ravioli with cheese and tomato sauce, salad, roll and butter, chocolate swirl cheesecake and Cadbury’s chocolate. I listened to the classical music channel and fell asleep for a few hours.

June 3 Friday Fly London to Rome, Italy

I was served some orange juice,strawberry yogurt and a blueberry muffin. After holding for 20 minutes we landed at London’s Heathrow Airport (LHR) at 8:51 or 3:51 am in Baltimore a five hour difference. I took a bus from the plane to Terminal 4 and then another bus to Terminal 1. There was a long line gonig through security and I didn’t clear security until 9:40. I met Sanford and Janet again and we chatted some more mostly about biking in the Czech Republic.

Boarded a Boeing 757 British Air flight 560 in seat 16D for the 2:30 hour flight from London to Rome covering 898 miles. I talked to a nice young woman seated next to me from Nassau, Bahamas who runs an art gallery. I was served some peanuts and a Bloody Mary mix. We landed at Rome’s Fiumicino Airport (FCO) at 4:05 pm or 10:05 am in Baltimore a six hour difference.

I retrieved my hockey bag as I walked up to the conveyer belt. I talked to several people about my bike and finally discovered it at the far end of the terminal. Consequently I was the last person from my flight to leave the luggage area. My shuttle driver was anxiously looking for me. I was quickly loaded in the van with a young American couple and we were off through the crazy Rome traffic.

I was dropped at the Hotel Giolli in central Rome at 5:55 pm. I checked into room 306 and met my room mate Chuck Corum 68 a retired geology college professor from San Diego. At 6:30 we walked to an ATM where I got 200 € ($2 ) . We stopped at the Antico Caffe Castellino for a seafood pizza and a liter Peroni beer for 15.50 € ($19.32 MC). Back at the hotel I met John Nidecker from the Berkeley area of California and Tony from Christchurch, New Zealand our bike mechanic. Our room is very small and the air conditioner is inadequate. I slept very little in the cramped stuffy and hot room. Because the hotel is centrally located it is expensive.

June 4 Saturday Rome, Italy

I got up at 6:20 am and showered. At 7:20 I went downstairs to a continental breakfast of juice, milk, hot chocolate, bread, ham, cheese, butter and jelly. I met Andrew Rowland and Suzie the founders of Wide Open Road bike tours. Checked out at 10:00 and my half of the room was 90 € ($111.76 MC).

Chuck Corum, John Nidecker, Gary Thompson (from the Berkeley area of California) and I walked to the Borghese Art Museum 8.50 € ($10.59 MC). Afterwards we walked to the National Museum of Modern Art 6.50E. We stopped at the sidewalk Popolo Caffe’ for a tuna and cheese salad for 13.50 € . We caught the subway 1.00 € ($1.23) to near the Circus Maximus walking past it into a nice neighborhood and the Hotel Villa San Pio set back off the quiet street in a garden setting.

Chuck and I checked into room 311 which is large, airey and light and very nice. We went down to the coutyard to assemble our bikes and I flattened my bike box to load it on the floor of the van. I met Martin Cresdee from near Oxford, England who I knew from biking Prague to Budapest in 2002. I drank two Tiber beers 8.00 € ($9.84) with James McCusker, Colm Dillon, Niall McCloy, all Irish that grew up together, plus others. About 9:00 the entire group walked over the hill down to the Tiber River and across it to an area with many restaurants. Chuck, Martin and I peeled off at a restaurant with a good menu. We had to wait to be let in as everyone in the restaurant finished praying. I had red wine, fish, pasta, pork, ice cream and Peligrino gaseous water for 50 € ($62.08 MC). I walked down to the basement an extensive wine cellar dating back to 85 BC. Everyone in the restaurant except us seemed to know each other and were visting each other at their tables. There were several robed bearded men probably Eastern Orthodox priests. It was a very different experience and when I checked my Mastercard slip the name of the retaurant was Spirito Divino.

June 5 Sunday Bike Rome to Civitavecchia, Italy

Got up at 7:00 and went to breakfast of orange juice, rolls, cheese, ham and fruit salad. At 8:00 biked mostly downhill 1 kilometer to the Ostiense Station. Caught an 8:15 train to Stazione di Cesano.

Biked a hilly 6.2 miles to Lago Bracciano then along the western shore climbing steeply into the town of Bracciano. There was a church service in progress in the cathedral and the castle was closed. I stayed near here and biked along the lake in 2000 while biking Revenna to Rome. I am biking more or less with Chuck Corum, Cassandra Fahey and Mike Ben-Meir from Melbourne, Australia and Rich Olver from Denver, Colorado. Climbed a long hill into Tolfa with no restaurants open until 1:00 at 31 miles. At 12:22 stopped at Bar Cardigna for a draft Nastro Azgurro for 1.80 €. It is mostly downhill to Civitavecchia arriving about 1:30.

Stopped at La Cambusa on the water front near the ferry for lunch at 2:00. I had a liter (33.8 oz) of gaseous water, pasta with mussels and shared a seafood antipasta with Chuck for 11.75 € ($14.45). Drank a 300 ml (10.1 oz) Nastro Azgurro for 1.80 € ($2.21).

The group walked their bikes onto the Tirrenia Ferry at 5:15 and carried a bag to cabin 228 on the 6th deck. Showered and washed my biking clothes in the shower. Went to the cafeteria at 7:30 for a roll, bow tie pasta with mushrooms, green salad, gaseous water, carrots, green beans, broccoli and fish for 16.20 € including tip. Went to bed in the top bunk at 10:00 and slept soudly for 10 hours despite a pretty rough storm during the night.

Today we biked 47.80 miles in 3:46:36 averaging 12.6 mph reaching a maximum 35.5 mph climbing 3240’ in 4 climbs and descending 3690’.

June 6, 2005 Monday Bike Cagliari to Costa Rei, Sardinia

Got up at 8:00 and packed up. The ferry landed at Cagliari, Sardinia at 9:45. I walked off the ferry with my bag on the bike into a large parking lot where we had breakfast of orange juice, cressants, an orange, aplle and muffin.

Biked out of Cagliari with Chuck at 10:45 along some beautiful beaches. We got into some hills with a good climb into Villasimius. We had many great views of the sea and small islands with Roman ruins everywhere at the overlooks. The sea is a dark blue with lighter blue green for a few few along the shore. Saw many cactus like we have in the western US that look like a stack of plates connected at their rim. There are large bushes covered in pink flowers that we would see everywhere in Sardinia..

Stopped in Villasimius for lunch of mushroom pizza and a liter of gaseous water for 8.70 € ($10.70). Climbed out of Villasimius and the great scenery got even better. Biked into Capo Ferrato Campground at 3:48 with Cameron Christensen and Lachian Woods both college students from Melbourne, Australia. Today I biked 44.39 miles (71.6 km) in 3:17:49 averaging 13.4 mph (21.6 kmph) reaching a maximum 40.5 mph (65 kmph) climbing 2370’ (722 m) in 4 climbs while descending 2290’ (698 m).

Set up my tent and drank a 400 ml draft Ichnusa beer for 3 € ($3.69). It is 92° (33° C). Went to tea under the large Wide Open Road tent. Typically we had olives, picklles, fruit, mellons, bread, cheese, cookies and drinks. Walked to the beach and then returned to the camp bar for a 400 ml draft Ichnusa beer for 3 € ($3.69) with James, Colm, Niall and Frank Draffen from Melbourne, Australia. We had a group meal in the campground of red wine, bread, salad, pasta with mussels and shrimp, charcoaled whole sea fish (name lost in translation), calimari, large shrimp, squid and a nice custard dessert.

June 7, 2005 Tuesday Bike Costa Rei to Santa Maria Navarrese, Sardinia

Got up at 6:24 to pack up and take down my tent. Breakfast of Alpen (muslix), fruit salad and milk under the WOR tent.

Biked from the camp at 8:09 and immediately had a little climb. Steve Juniper from the Berkeley area of California caught me and we rode together to Muravera where I stopped at Bar Paderi for a milk and pastry for 1 € ($1.23). At 64 km (39.7 miles) I stopped at Bar Augusto for lunch with Rich Olver, Joihn Nidecker and Steve Juniper. I had ravioli ricotta and a liter of acqua frizzante for 7 € ($8.61) plus 1 € ($1.23) tip. At 91 km (56.4 miles) stopped in Bari Sardo for ice cream 1E with Anne Spalding from Grand Junction, Colorado, Frank Draffen, Sheena Hall from Melbourne, Australia and Lachian Woods. Got lost in Tortoli with about 10 others from the group. At 3:48 I biked into Santa Maria Navarrese and checked into room107 of the Hotel Nicoletta. The room is large, cool, bright and very nice. Today I biked 75.97 miles in 5:33:56 averaging 13.6 mph reaching a maximum 31.0 mph climbing 2360’ in 4 climbs while descending 2280’.

I had a Ichnusa beer for 2 € ($2.46) in the hotel. I showered and washed my bike clothes. Went to tea in the hotel garden at 4:40 and we received our Rome to Nice T-shirts. At 8:00 we had a group meal across the street from the hotel at the La Fontana. At my table was Chuck Corum, Steve Ajay also from the Berkeley area of California and Gary Thompson. We enjoyed bread, shrimp, mussels, fish in a sauce, French fries, apple strawberry dessert red wine and a liter of acqua frizzante until 10:35.

June 8, 2005 Wednesday Bike Sta Maria Navarrese to Cala Gonone

Got up at 6:26 and packed up. Ate continental breakfast of two rolls, cheese, ham, milk and red orange juice, honey and butter. Left my gear in the hotel lobby.

At 9:04 I biked from the garage under the hotel. I missed the first turn so I returned the way I came in yesterday to S-125 where I turned right and began climbing. This is our first major climb of the trip as we ascend from sea level 36.5 km (22.6 miles) to Genna Silanna at 1017 meters (3337’). Tere are beautiful mountain scenes as I climb at 5 – 7 % with spots up to 8 – 9 %. It is threatening rain and cool which is good for climbing. I pass through Baunei and the slope moderates somewhat with a few steeper spots. At 11:40 I top the Genna Silanna pass and stop at the bar for a panini (sandwich) of proscitto (ham), fromage (cheese) and pomadoro (tomato) with a liter of acqua frizzante (gaseous water) for 3.80 € ($4.67). I eat outside in the cool sun with Frank Draffen, James McCusker, Niall McCloy and Lanny Mack from Denver, Colorado.

At 12:50 I started down with Wayne Whiting from Christchurch, New Zealand. Wayne joined us after Cagliari as he had trouble getting his bike from Italian customs. We had beautiful views on the descent so we stopped frequently for pictures. We turned continuously as we glided on a ledge along the mountainside. We turned right through a tunnel and descended steeply into Cala Gonone a beautiful town. Rode to the beach and stopped at the Road House Blues Pub for a Ichnusa birra 2.50 € ($2.64), patate fritte (French fries) 3 € ($3.69), and a cheeseburger 4 € ($4.92) with Richie and Sylvia from Sydney, Australia, James, Niall, Wayne, Lanny, Steve and Rich Olver. It is windy as we watched the sail boats and other water activities.

Arrived at the campground at 4:00 to set up my tent, shower and wash my biking clothes. Had tea under the WOR tent at 4:40. Walked to the Aquariua for green salad, seafood (scampi,crab and mussel) pasta, veal, patatoes, green beans, peppers, eggplant, carrots and strawberry ice cream with acqua frizzante for 30.10 € ($37.52 MC). Walked back to camp and went to bed in 69°. Today I biked 42.45 miles in 3:48:16 averaging 11.1 mph reaching a maximum 34.5 mph climbing 3780’ in 3 climbs while descending 3830’.

June 9, 2005 Thursday Bike Cala Gonone to Saint Teodore

Got up at 6:45 in 68° packed up and took tent down. 8:00 breakfast of Alpen, pineapple, orange and croissant.

Biked from camp at 9:09 back up the mountain through the tunnel and turned right for a nice gradual descent. Wayne Whiting followed and we biked together all day. We biked over hills coming to the sea several times. We stopped for lunch at Albero Maestr near La Colletta from 12:30 until 1:50. I had seafood linguini, and a liter of acqua frizzante for 12 € ($14.76). Biked into Cala Gonone at 3:40 and stopped at the Pizzaria de Crisfina for a 660 ml Ichnusa for 3 € ($3.69).

At 4:20 biked over the hill to the beach and Camp Cal d’Ambria in 78° . Set up my tent and went to tea at 4:38. Showered and washed my biking clothes. Walked to town and Da Nardino for supper with Colm, Niall, Chuck, Wayne, Rob Bignal from Wales, Maxim Schrogin another from the Berkeley area of California and John Curley a policeman from Nottingham, England.. I had water 2 €, fish 24.75 €, salad 3.50 €, gnocchi 8E and a 2E service charge. We split the bill for 24E each and then realized my fish was 24.75 € alone. I was embarrassed and tried to buy everyone a beer.

Today I biked 57.21 miles in 4:30:42 averaging 12.4 mph reaching a maximum 32.0 mph climbing 3240’ in 3 climbs while descending 3340’.

June 10, 2005 Friday Bike S Teodore to Bonifacio, Corsica

Got up at 6:15 packed up and took tent down. Ate 7:00 breakfast of cereal, fruit salad, milk, cream filled sweet roll.

8:04 biked from camp with Wayne Whiting and soon teamed up with John Curley riding together all day. Coming out of the Sardinian capitol Olbia there was a bad head on collision with glass all over the road. The heavy traffic around Olbia was tied up for miles in both directions. We were able to work our way through the mess without too much delay and difficulty. It felt good when we got free in the countryside because we could relax and enjoy the biking and scenery. It is very hilly so we did a lot of climbing and descending all day. At 11:20 we stopped at a snack bar in Arzechena for a liter of acqua frizzante and a ham and cheese panini for 4.50 € ($5.54). We arrived at the port of Santa Teresa Gallura at 1:35. We congregated at a bar and I paid for the groups drinks consisting of five beers and a coke for 20.20 € ($24.85) partial payment for my fish of a few nights ago.

We caught the 5:00 ferry for the 45 minute ride to Bonafacio. It was sad leaving Sardinia as it had been good to me. The island is beautiful with sandy beaches, mountains, abundant flowers, friendly people and good food and wine. As we cleared the pier we could see the cliffs of Corsica straight ahead and some islands to our right plus a mountain island in the distance to our left. As we approached Corsica we could see the fortifications and old city atop the high cliffs but no harbor.When we got near there was a tiny crack in the cliffs that curved to the right so it looked like a solid face from a distance. The ferry squeezed through the crack and docked in the narrow harbor.

We waited for the cars and trucks to unload before walking our bikes off the ferry. Bonafacio is stunning with the old city and fort looming high overhead and the neat confined harbor with the new city wrapped around the inlet. We worked our way along the waterfront about a quarter of a mile down a street jammed with pedestrians and uninterrupted crowded street cafes. We turned left around the end of the inlet and soon were in our terraced campground by 6:20. I selected the 2nd highest terrace and set up my tent. I showered. Venita Phillips from Houston, Texas joined us. At 8:00 Steve Juniper, Maxim Schrogin, Venita Phillips, Chuck Corum, Wayne Whiting and I walked 5 minutes to one of the waterfront sidewalk cafes for dinner. I had steak, French fries, bread, fruit salad, red wine and water for 11 € ($13.53) plus 1 € ($1.23) tip.

Today I biked 66.66 miles in 5:09:43 averaging 13.6 mph reaching a maximum 34.0 mph climbing 4020’ in 7 climbs while descending 4050’.

June 11, 2005 Saturday Rest in Bonifacio, Corsica

Got up at 7:45 and ate croissants, cereal and milk for breakfast. Walked to a laundry on the other side of the water from the pier and had my laundry up to 6 kilograms done by 5:00 for 8 € ($9.84). Paid 3 € ($3.69) to use the internet. I had problems with the strange keyboard and tried to email Anne but failed because I mixed her two email addresses together. Stopped in a Tabac shop and bought a French Telecom international phone card for 7.50 € ($9.23). Walked up the 20+% cobblestoned track to the walled old city on the cliff top. Wandered through the narrow streets and finally out to the old abandoned barracks and fort. I met Angela Smith from I believe Sussex, England and we toured the fort park. I passed a phone booth at 12:45 and called Anne. She couldn’t believe how clear our line was as she kept saying you sound like you are next door. I bought a chicken and tomato sandwich and 1,5 liter de l’eau (water) gaseous at 7.20 € (8.86) for lunch. It is very hot. Returned to camp and drank a Pelsworth beer given to me by Steve Juniper. Walked back to town to the Sarl AGS and bought bananas, pear, nectarene, cashews, two milk chocolate almond bars and cheese consuming the fruit. At 7:30 the group walked back to the walled old city to a restaurant on the 2nd floor for dinner. I had a great meal of red wine, bread, stuffed clams, eggplant, lasagna and teramasu with Chris Pembroke from Melbourne, Australia, Anne Garry a doctor from York, England, Wayne Whiting, Chuck Corum and Robinlyn Reade from Denver, Colorado. Went to bed at 11:02.

June 12, 2005 Sunday Bike Bonifacio to Zonza, Corsica

Got up in 63° (17° C) at 7:06 packed up and took down my dry tent (under trees) despite a very light rain. Went to breakfast of Alpen, orange juice, banana and cressant at 7:36.

Biked from camp at 8:19. Caught Wayne Whiting, Steve Juniper, and Maxim Schrogin in Zucalella. Bought and consumed an apple and a peach 0.85 € before entering Porto Vecchio. Linked up with Colm Dillon in the heavy traffic and exited the city. Climbed 912 meters (2992’) over 17 kilometers (10.5 miles) into Ospidale. Stopped for 250 ml de l’eau gaseous 2.30 € ($2.83). It is 68° (20° C). Stopped by a high mountain lake in a forrest for lunch of apple, peach, cheese, cashews and some chocolate with almonds. A short distance from lunch I stopped at a bar and hiked down into a deep hoole to a spectacular waterfalls but my camera batteries were dead. From this point I always carried spares on me. I saw many 6” speckled lizards with green tails. Hiking back I passed two different guys with dogs. I heard that night that one of them fell in the steep hole braking his leg and was medivacced out in a helicopter. Stopped in Camping Municipale but it was early with one or two people there. Biked about 5 kilometers into Zonza for a 400 ml Pietra beer for 2.50 € ($3.08) at a small hotel. A group of about 10 backpackers hiking a GR trail checked in the hotel. Biked back to camp before returning to Zonza for another 400 ml Pietra 2.30 € ($2.83) at a bar with several people from our group. Returned to Camping Municipale located at 41° 45.120 N by 5° 11.813 E elevation 2560’ (780 m) at 5:20. Today I biked 53.34 miles (86 km) in 5:06:19 averaging 10.4 mph (16.8 kmph) reaching a maximum 35.0 mph (56.5 kmph) climbing 6200’ (1890 m) in 5 climbs while descending 3740’ (1140 m).

Set up tent and went to tea of hot olives, bread, almonds, water melon and lemonade at 5:35. Showered and washed biking clothes. At 8:10 Suzie from Sydney, Australia served s deliscious Australian barbecue of vegetables, potatoes, beef kebobs, sausage, cous cous, green salad, marinated tomatoes, bread, beer and red wine. We had a brief rain shower. I learned that Roger Troughton had a violent reaction to a jellyfish sting and had to be flown back to England today.

June 13, 2005 Monday Bike Zonza to Cupabia, Corsica

It is 55° (13° C) at 7:07 as I got up to pack and take down my slightly damp tent. 8:00 ate Alpen, milk, fruit salad, cressant.

Biked from camp at 9:16 through Zonza. Biked up 400 meters (1312’) over 12 kilometers (8 miles) to Col de Bavella 1200m (3936’) passing several rocks on the road. There are great views in both directions and the ragged ridge line to the left is dramatic. I walked the ledge in the col running between the mountain ridges in both directions covering probably a mile. Clouds are moving through the col affording great but brief views. It was a nice descent back down the curvey mountain road to Zonza the way I came. I had to stop 3 times to allow a tour bus to clear as I kept overtaking it. I stopped in Zonza to buy a tomato, nectarene and an apple for 2.06 €($2.33). Continued on another long descent to Levie. I noticed several memorials to resistance fighters around 1941 – 1943. I stopped at one in Levie to read and photograph the inscription. There was a short but steep climb of 250 meters (825’) into Propriano.

Stopped at a bar at 1:17 with a great view of the Golfe de Valinco. Most of the group was there including the crew. I ate veal brochettes and squash for 10 € ($12.30) with gratis rose wine and de l’eau gaseous. I enjoyed the view and cruise ship activity with Anne Spalding, Sheena Hall, Frank Draffen, Rob Bignell and Cameron Christensen.

Biked down a very steep descent then along the water. It is 85° (29° C) and hot as I climbed 200 meters (720’) to Sasso du Farru. Drank two 330 ml Perriers for 5 € ($6.15) with James, Niall, Colm, Jerry and Lanny. Rolled downhill into camp located at 41° 44.255 N by 8° 47.120 E elevation 10’ (3 m) at 5:00. Today I biked 56.04 miles (90.4 km) in 4:27:58 averaging 12.5 mph (20.2 kmph) reaching a maximum 35.5 mph (57.3 kmph) climbing 4420’ (1347 m) in 5 climbs while descending 6830’ (2082 m).

Set up my tent in high grass then showered and washed bike clothes in cold water. Ate watermelon, hot olives and an orange at tea. Drank two 250 ml (8.5 oz) Torra beers for 5 € ($6.15). The beach is remote and very scenic. At 8:45 Suzie served another excellent Australian barbecue of cous cous, pepper with cheese, chicken, very large shrimp, tomatoes, green salad, pies, bread and red wine. I really enjoy Suzie’s barbecues because the food is very good, there is more than enough for everyone to eat and they are relaxed with no hassle at our camp site.

June 14, 2005 Tuesday Bike Cupabia to Liscia, Corsica

We had a thunderstorm during the night. Got up at 6:52 to 68° packed up and took down a wet tent. Ate a banana, orange, Alpen, milk and croissant for breakfast at 8:00.

Biked from camp at 8:52. All road signs in Corsica have two spellings for town names, one French and the other Corsican. There is an active liberation movement as in Sardinia that paints over the French spelling and sometimes shoots the signs leaving bullet holes. Also, they sometimes paint their own signs on the road, buildings, etc. reminding tourists they are in Corsica and not France. It is overcast and threatening.

Stopped to buy a peach, tomato, pear and 1.5 liter bottle of water for 4.61 € ($5.12). Ate my lunch including some cheese and chocolate almond bar by the beach before entering Porticcio about 36 kilometers into the ride. Our directions were very confusing in Porticcio as I saw almost everyone at various turns trying to decide what direction to follow. My main problem was I got lost on the cue sheet and started following directions that seem to fit where I was but were erroneous. The group managed to wind their way through.

It was easy riding until I got to Afa at 61 kilometers where I encountered a steep 12-13% or more grade in two steps into town. At 64 kilometers as I turned right on D81 it started raining. Many from the group stopped there so I stopped for a beer for 3 € ($3.69). I waited over an hour and everytime I decided to start again it would rain very hard.

Finally Wayne Whiting, Steve Juniper, Gary Thompson and I decided to make a break for it despite the awfull threatening clouds in the direction we were headed. We ran through some light rain for a few minutes before starting to a 300 meter climb over a small mountain. Miraculously it stopped raining and we even encountered a lot of dry road. We had a nice descent rolling into Camping La Liscia located at 42° 2.876 N by 8° 45.307 E near the beach at 3:38 in 69° Today I biked 52.11 miles in 4:28:27 averaging 11.5 mph (18.5 kmph) reaching a maximum 35.0 mph (56.5 kmph) climbing 4260’ (1298 m) in 7 climbs while descending 4280’ (1305 m).

Drank a beer 2.50 € ($3.08) with James McCusker, Niall McCloy, Lanny Mack and Jerry. Showered, shaved and washed my biking clothes. Ate some bread, pepperoni, watermellon, red wine and tea at 5:00 tea. Because of the weather I ate supper at the campground. I ate Capriocie pizza 10.50 € ($12.92), cre’me bruleaux 6 € ($7.38) and a liter de l’eau gaseous 3.30 € ($4.06) totaling 20.30 € ($24.97). My biking clothes didn’t dry at all.

June 15, 2005 Wednesday Bike Liscia to Porto

Got up at 7:04 packed up and took down my tent. Ate fruit salad, Alpen, milk and tea at 7:52.

Biked from camp at 9:18 along the coast stopping frequently for pictures. Stopped in Sagione for a banana and Bing cherries, for 1.30 €. Biked up a big hill above Cargese for a great view. It is sunny and warm and everyone congregated there taking pictures. Watched kayakers below but couldn’t rent them as they were for a redort residents only. Biked around the curved beach to Cargese and stopped at a patissiere for a fruit tarte 2 € ($2.46) which I ate at a hotel with a great view purchasing 330 ml (11.2 oz) de l’eau for 2.50 € ($3.08).

Biked up 400 meters (1320’) to Piana where everyone stopped at a family run restaurant. We overwhelmed them so Sylvia, fluent in French, took orders and delivered food. Thanks to Sylvia, everyone














was fed in a hour. I had a liter of gas de l’eau gaseous, green salad, lamb chops, huge lima beans in a sauce, bread and cheese for 27 €. Biked through some spectacular rocks on a cliff road taking many pictures with others in the group. Descended steeply down a sharply curved road into Porto on the coast and Camping Oliviers located at 42° 15.709 N by 8° 42.730 E.

Biked to La Poste and got 200 € from the ATM. Many of us stopped at a bar for two 330 ml (11.2 oz) beers at 2 € each. Back at camp I biked 34.94 miles (56.4 km) in 3:09:27 averaging 11.0 mph (17.7 kmph) reaching a maximum 32.5 mph (52.4 kmph) climbing 2740’ (835 m) in 4 climbs while descending 2530’ (771 m).

Went to tea for bread, cheese and milk before showering and washing my biking clothes. Everything drying quickly. Chuck Corum and I walked to a hotel in town for supper.I had Corse soup (vegtables and pasta), lamb chops, French fries, caramel custard and a liter of de l’eau gaseous for 23 €. Back in camp, Roger Troughton has returned from the UK recovered from the jellyfish sting.

June 16, 2005 Thursday Bike Porto to Corte

Got up at 7:04 packed up and took down my tent. Had fruit salad, Alpen, cressant and milk at 7:26.

Biked from camp at 8:19 and turned the wrong way into town. I checked my cue sheet and realized my mistake. I returned crossing the bridge then turning left and started climbing immediately. The climb unveiled spectacular scenery continuing for 20 miles (32.3 km) rising 4812’ (1467 m) through Evisa to Col de Vergo at 10:58. It was a nice long downhill to lunch at 12:12 in Restaurant Corsica in Calacuccia with Frank Draffen and Suzie. I had a tomato, cheese and lettuce salad, pasta, an apple and a liter of de l’eau gaseous for 20 € ($24.60). The entire group stopped there for lunch.

Continued down past a dam and through a narrow tortured rock canyon on a ledge above a stream for miles. Missed the turn on D18 after crossing a bridge at 71 km. Continued down on D84 to N193 before turning right towards Corte. After a good climb I descended into Corte behind Colm Dillon. We wound our way through town to camp at 3:26. We returned to town meeting Frank Draffen and Cameron Christensen. We stopped in Place Paoli for a beer treated by Colm at 2.59 € each. It is hot. Biked back to Camping Alivetu located at 42° 17.952 N by 9° 8.971 E elevation 1280’ (390 m) at 4:10. I biked 58.89 miles (95 km) in 5:26:35 averaging 10.8 mph (17.4 kmph) reaching a maximum 38.0 mph (61.3 kmph) climbing 5850’ (1783 m) in 2 climbs while descending 4710’ (1436 m).

Had bread and oil, cookies, frozen blue ice sticks and orange for tea. Set up my tent, showered and washed bike clothes. Walked to Place Paoli for a vanilla milkshake for 5 € ($6.15). Everyone met across the street at La Boheme at 8:00 for dinner. We had a long table with one side having their back only inches from the street traffic. The food and service was very good as I had red wine, Corse soup, noodles and wild boar stew, cheese and pistachio ice cream with Rob Bignall, John Curley, Venita Phillips, James McCusker, Terry, Niall McCloy, Colm Dillon and Chris Pembroke. We walked back to camp in the dark and found the entrance gate closed. Some climbed the gate but when John started over in front of me I noticed it slid slightly so I slid it open and walked in. In the wee hours of the morning the Irish quartet had some difficulty negotiating the gate, neighboring fences and stone wall.

June 17, 2005 Friday Bike Corte to Algajola

Got up at 6:50 in 68° (20° C) packed up and took down my tent. Breakfast at 8:10 was a croissant, orange, kiwi, cantalope, milk and wheat biscuit cereal.

Biked from camp at 9:18 and teamed up with Gary Thompson. Climbs about 200 meters (660’) over a mountain to Ponte Leccia stopping at a bar for 300 ml de l’eau gaseous for 2 € ($2.46). We stopped in a super market for a banana and nectarine for 0.87 € which I consumed outside. It is hot. We have a long 20 kilometer (12.4 miles) climb that is gradual mostly 2-4% rising 400 meters to Col de San Colombano before descending into Belgodere at 12:20 for lunch.

I had Niciose salad, bread and de l’eau gaseous for 11 € ($13.53) at a cafe in the square of the town. Walked to the top of a large rock on the edge of town for a great view all the way to the sea. Gary and I biked on for about 25 miles in a circuitous route following the mountain ridgeline to the sea and Algajola. We biked to the Hotel Beau Rivage situated on a beautiful beach at 4:20. I biked 59.58 miles in 4:35:56 averaging 12.9 mph reaching a maximum 32.0 mph climbing 2650’ in 4 climbs while descending 3930’.

I drank a 400 ml draft Pietra beer for 2 € ($4.92). Chuck and my room is on the second floor with a balcony over the surf looking out to sea. I changed into swimming trunks and went for a long refreshing swim. We had tea of rose wine, crisps and olives on the terrace next to the water. We got together and Cameron and Mike put on a skit written by Cassandra. We had supper at the hotel at 8:00. I had a ham plate, fish, terine (carrots,broccoli and tomato paste) and apple crisp (very good). A collection of 20 € ($24.60) from everyone was given to the crew. Over 20 of us walked to a bar for a beer to celebrate. I drank a 500 ml draft Pietra beer. I had to give it up at 12:30 am so I left 20 € for the tab which James gave most of it back to me the next day. 

June 18, 2005 Saturday Bike Algajola to Ile Reuss & Ferry to Nice, Provence

Got up at 6:52 and packed up. Went down to breakfast of orange juice, bread, butter, jam and cressant at 8:00. Left our bags by the van at 10:00. At 11:07 caught the old rickety train for 3.40 € ($4.18) arriving in Calvi at 11:42. Calvi is a very nice little port city the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. Walked around Calvi and the citadel taking pictures. Ate a fruit tarte 2.50 € ($3.08), a ham cheese and tomato panini 3 € ($3.69), Orangina 1.50 € ($1.85) and a pistache ice cream cone 1.50 € $1.85). Bought a Corse map for 4.50 € ($5.54). Caught the 2:30 train back to Algajola for 3.50 € ($4.31).

At 4:52 biked 5.4 miles over a small hill to a bar next to the ferry in Ile Reuss. Ate a banana split for 6.50 € ($8.00). Ate a toasted panini with a draft Pietra for 4.50 € ($5.54).

Caught the 8:26 ferry arriving in Nice at 11:15. A bit melancoly as I watched the mountains of Corsica fade in the dimming light from the windy back deck of the ferry with John Curley. Nice was very pretty as we approached with lights strung along the shore for miles. A large mountain with a shrine was brightly lit near the pier. We walked our bikes off the ferry and several blocks to the Kyriad Hotel at 12:01 where Chuck and I checked into room 301. I showered and went to bed.