2005 BIKE ITALY

On September 21 forty members of the Baltimore Bike Club flew to Rome, Italy for a three week bike trip through Lazio, Umbria and Tuscany.

We biked over seven hundred miles in 11 biking days plus three optional biking days. We climbed and descended 39 times totaling about 35 thousand feet. The weather was sunny and pleasant for most of the trip with the exception being the last 2 biking days. Umbria was my favorite with more mountains, fewer people and friendly, good cuisine and wine, fantastic scenery and great little historical walled cities perched on mountain tops. Tuscany was more of the same but not as good.

The traffic is chaotic and a mystery to Americans but I saw only one accident in 3 weeks. Italy has the most bicyclists per capita in the world and I believe it as I saw many local cyclists daily. Italians love and respect bicyclists as I had no close calls the entire trip. Although Italians will pass on blind curves and take other risky chances they always hang back of cyclists in tight or dangerous situations.

The wine was mostly good and very reasonable as Italy produces 21% of the world’s wine. The food was very good with pasta served with virtually every meal along with lots of pork and seafood usually served in a light sauce. Pizza was also widely available.

The group consisting of nineteen women and twenty one men was congenial and friendly.

September 21, 2005 Wednesday Fly Baltimore via Atlanta to Rome, Italy

Barry and Carol Nelson arrived at our house in their Chevrolet van about 12:00. We loaded Anne and my boxed bikes with our luggage in the back. We stopped at their son Brian’s house and he drove us to the Baltimore Washington International airport arriving at 12:38. We met Lew and Kathleen Frain and quickly checked in as there was virtually no line. We passed through security to the departing gate C12 area. Soon other member of our group started arriving.

We boarded the MD-88 in seats 18D and 18E. We took off at 4:20 pm on Delta flight 1593 from Baltimore (BWI) to Atlanta (ATL) arriving at 6:15 pm. I enjoyed a Bloody Mary mix and peanuts in the short flight.

I ate a small pizza $3.89 and peanut M&Ms in the airport. We boarded the Boeing B 767-300 in seats 33 A & B and took off at 7:40 pm on Delta flight 76 from Atlanta (ATL) to Rome (FCO). In flight I had another Bloody Mary mix with peanuts before supper of salad, roll and butter, beef, mashed potatoes, green beans and a brownie. I slept fitfully for a few hours.

September 22, 2005 Thursday Arrive in Rome (Fiumicino)

We were served orange juice, a croissant and granola bar before landing. We arrived on Delta flight 76 in Rome (FCO), Italy at 11:15 am (5:15 am in Baltimore). We passed through immigration before picking up our bags and bikes to pass through customs.

We loaded our bike boxes into the hotel van and boarded a large tour bus for the short ride to our hotel in Ostia next to Fiumicino. We arrived at the Hotel Club Isola Sacra at Via Della Scafa, 416 phone 39 066 5029864 at 1:50 and checked into room 312. I went down at 3:00 pm to unbox and assemble Anne and my bikes. I walked to a nearby alimentari (grocery store) for a cold Nastro Azurra (the beer of Sardinia) for 0.95 €. We ate supper in the hotel. I had a seafood pasta, salad and a .66 liter Peroni with Anne’s meal came to 44 € ($54.12). We went to bed around 10:00 as we would virtually every night of the trip.

September 23, 2005 Friday Bike Fiumicino to Orvieto

Got up at 6:40 and packed up. Went to breakfast of orange juice, bread, butter and jelly at 7:00.

About 15-20 of us started to bike from the hotel at 8:20 in 63^o. Kathy Brugh couldn’t turn her handlebar and I discovered and removed the cable stuck in her headset. Her bike arrived late last night and the cable got tightened in the headset in the rush to assemble her bike. I didn’t tighten the headset properly so she was getting some movement in the headset. We corrected that problem but she still had problems because the bearing was damaged and had to be replaced in Anguillara on Lago Bracciano when we stopped for lunch at 11:15. Barry Nelson, Joe Dumin and I shared some rolls, tomatoes, cheese, salami, milk and nectarines at a grocery store for 4 € ($4.92) each.

We continued north around the east side of Lago Bracciano through Trevignano and over a mountain through Sutri. On a fast downhill curve approaching Ronciglione, Chris Mortellaro’s rear tire blew and he went down depositing a lot of skin on the pavement. A large group stopped to fix his tire and do what we could for his extensive road rash. We discovered his rear wheel was badly out of line and couldn’t be trued because the spokes were stripped. The van was called by cell phone and a few people stayed with Chris as most of us cycled on in 75^o.

It is getting late and we have many miles to ride. I calculate that I have about enough time to get to Orvieto by dark about 7:00. We reach Lago di Vico and the group decided to stop for coffee. I continue on alone along the southern and then western side of the lake where I encounter a long steep climb. I stop at the top and talk to Jaimie Fisher. He said they were going to take the train from Viterbo to Orvieto.

I realize I am really late and so I take off descending steeply through San Martino al Cimino and into Viterbo. I spend about an hour hopelessly lost trying to find the route north out of Viterbo. I finally spot a sign for Montefiascone and realize I can go that way on the N2 and N71 to Orvieto. I have heavy traffic and a big climb up to Montefiascone but after that it was easy cycling to Orvieto. Orvieto is perched on top of a high rock schist. I know the hotel is by the train station so I start the long steep climb headed for the center of town. About half way up I realize that I don’t remember a train station in the town when I stayed here in 2000 and that a train probably could not get up the mountain. I am committed so I continue up through the gate of the old walled city. I stop and ask an Italian for directions to the stazione. He says it is 2 ˝ kilometers back down the mountain where I just came up. I started to whine and he was confused stating apologetically that it was all downhill. I thanked the bewildered fellow and reluctantly remounted my bike going back down the mountain to where I had just come to the train station and our hotel at 6:50. I talked to Antoinette Fisher in the street and she told me she fell on the steep descent into Viterbo and had some cuts on her lip. I biked 97.15 miles in 8:03:13 hours averaging 11.9 miles climbing 5520’ while descending 5110’ in 4 climbs.

Carol Nelson, Kathleen Frain and Anne were in the lobby and wanted to know where Barry, Lew and Pete were. I didn’t know since they were ahead of me when I stopped where Chris fell. Our room is 205 in the Hotel Europa located at 42^o 43.379 N by 12^o 07.537 E at Via Gramsci, 5 phone 39 076 3302171/2/3. I showered washing my bike clothes. Bob Benhoff, Anne and I walked down to dinner in the hotel at 8:20. The menu is set and costs 15 € per person. The vegetable soup, pork cutlets and mashed potatoes were very good and plentiful. I drank a litre of acqua frizzante (carbonated water) and Anne had a Coke bringing our bill (il conto) to 32 € ($39.36). I got to bed at 11:00 after doing all my chores.

September 24, 2005 Saturday Bike Orvieto to Assisi

Got up at 6:35 in 58o. Went to breakfast of two rolls, butter, jam, grapefruit juice and milk at 7:15.

At 8:30 Lew Frain, Barry Nelson, Pete Flaton, Kathy Brugh, John and Barbara Lefko, Sue Clewell, Chris McLaughlin, Jaimie and Antoinette Fisher and I biked from the hotel. We were soon climbing a long ascent. We finally passed some towers on top and biked along the ridge before a fast descent to San Venanza. We stopped for a ham and cheese panini (sandwich) and .5 litre (16.9 oz) of acqua frizzante for 2 € ($2.45). We continued through Marsciano then up and down along the lower ridge before descending into San Martino in Colle. We stopped for lunch of a panini and .5 litre of acqua frizzante for 3 € ($3.68). It is 77^o (25^o C).

We biked to the hotel Le Grazie located at Via Madonna delle Grazie phone 39 075 8043850 and checked into room 312 at 2:50. I biked 52.87 miles in 4:16:09 averaging 12.4 mph climbing 1320’ while descending 2860’ in 2 climbs.

We gathered in the lobby for a Peroni 3 €. At 5:00 Carol Nelson drove the Nelsons, Frains, McQueens and Pete Flaton up to the old walled city of Assisi. We walked through the narrow cobble stone street looking in shops until we reached the main piazza. I walked into the lobby of the Dei Priori Hotel just off the piazza where we stayed in September 2000. Our room ceiling was domed and painted. We walked down to the large cathedral. We stopped for gelati at 1.50 € each and I had a cherry cone with fresh chunks of Bing cherries in the gelati. I also got a piece of pizza for 1.50 €. We met Bob Benhoff, who rode his motor scooter up, in the main piazza and he joined us for dinner. We ate at the Pizzeria il Duomo for 35 € plus 2 € tip. I had a draft .4 litre double malt beer, tortelini, chicken, potatoes, strawberry dessert and .75 litre acqua frizzante. We returned to our hotel at 9:00.

September 25, 2005 Sunday Bike Assisi to Gubbio

Got up at 6:37 and packed up. Went to breakfast of a roll, croissant butter, jelly, juice and milk at 7:30.

Pete, Lew, Barry and I biked from the hotel at 8:45 around the base of the mountain of Assisi. Our route took a right turn outside town but there were two roads in a V so it was not obvious which road to take. We decided to take the right fork which looked the busiest. We passed a group of 25-30 people in camouflage uniforms sporting machine guns that were assembling by a pool of small military trucks. We climbed a big hill and descended then started up a steep mountain. The road turned to dirt and it was so steep you had to stand and lean over the handlebars causing the back wheel to slip in the dirt. We came to a local walking the road and he told us that our road did indeed go to Gubbio, that we had two more mountains to go over that were very steep and beautiful, and that the dirt road continued for another 6 kilometers. We decided to return to the highway where we turned and had a scary descent back down the loose dirt section.

We could see a sign to Gubbio about a hundred yards ahead. We decided not to follow the route and the left fork of the V since it was the same class road and could turn into dirt as well. Also we saw many Italian bikers following the Gubbio sign. We went that way catching and falling in behind a group of 8-10 Italian bikers. They all had expensive new bikes with Itaqlian brands some of which we never heard of. They were all snazzily dressed in different but matching pants and shirts. They looked good! They decided to stop in Pallazzo for coffee so we joined them. I ordered a fruit tarte and hot chocolate for 3.20 €. I got big cup of melted chocolate about the consistency of chocolate syrup on a sundae. Lesson learned as the next time I successfully ordered “latte e cioccolato caldo”.

We followed the back roads up to Piccione where we picked up National road 298. We started climbing a long steep and switchbacked mountain passing Anne Stratmann somewhere in the middle. At the top we stopped and talked to Joe Dumin before starting the fast ride mostly down to Gubbio. Tim Munn and Lisa Simione passed us in a car. We passed Carol, Kathleen and Anne at a cafe so we stopped for lunch. I had a proscuitto (ham) and fromaggio (cheese) panini, patatina fritte (chips) and acqua frizzante for 3.20 €. A block later we biked to the Hotel San Marco located on Via Parugina at 43^o 21.017 N by 12^o 34.613 E elevation 1671’ phone 39 075 9220234 and checked into room 242. This is the same hotel we stayed in 2000 but Anne and I had a garden room. We biked 31.8 miles in 2:40:25 hours averaging 11.8 mph climbing 2760’ while descending 1900’ in 3 climbs.

We had a draft beer at the bar next door to wash down the road dust before showering and washing my bike clothes. Anne and I walked around Gubbio exploring the shops and narrow streets. We bought a bottle of wine and some cheese in a wine shop. I enjoyed another cherry gelato cone for 1.20 €. About 5:00 the Frains, Nelsons, McQueens, Pete Flaton and Bob Benhoff gathered in the hotel garden enjoying the wine and cheese we purchased. At 7:00 we walked to the Grotta dell Angelo a family run restaurant located on a narrow street for supper. I had fettucini, pork cutlets, potatoes, fruit, water and wine for 29 € plus 1 € tip including Anne’s meal. The food was very good. Janet Olney, Susan Miltenberger, Mike Harris, Mark McMillan, Susanne Morsberger and others came in while we ate.

September 26, 2005 Monday San Marino and Gubbio

Got up at 6:47. Ate breakfast of apricot croissant, tea, milk, juice, bread, cheese and ham.

At 8:15 Carol drove the Opel sedan with the Nelsons, Frains and McQueens from the hotel headed for San Marino. We headed northeast on the National road 452 to National road 3 to Fano. We stopped for gasolina (diesel) at 1.197 € per liter (about $5.57 per gallon) which was quite an experience being helped by an Italian who spoke English well having lived in the states. We drove through Fano and up the beach 11.5 kilometers along the Adriatic Sea to Pesano. We decided to take the A16 Autostrada but went in the wrong direction back to Pano 2.30 € before we could turn around. We headed northwest again to exit at Remini Sud 2.30 € for San Marino. We drove up the mountain to near the old city wall arriving at 11:30.

San Marino is a small independent principality situated on a large stand alone mountain about 10 miles from the Adriatic and totally surrounded by Italy. They have a parliament consisting of two houses with two prime ministers elected for a 6 month term. There are no cars within the wall and is quite nice.

We passed the Hotel Titano our hotel in 2000. We stopped at the Bellavista for lunch at 17.60 €. I had spinach ravioli filled with cheese 8.50 € and .75 liter acqua frizzante 2.40 € while Anne had the hamburger, French fries and Coke special for 6.70 €. We walked around the town before stopping in an alimentari for a bottle of San Marino wine 4.99 €, cheese 3.79 € and peanuts 1.99 €. At 2:20 we drove back down the mountain to the A16 2.30 € to N3 at Fano southwest to N452 to Gubbio.

We gathered in the hotel garden for wine, cheese and crackers that we purchased. We walked to the San Francesco de Lupo for dinner at 39 €. I had a .5 liter draft Moretti La Rosa 4 € and .5 liter acqua frizzante 1.40 € with gnocchi, pork cutlets, French fries, and desert of a plum, pear and kiwi fruit

September 27, 2005 Tuesday Bike Gubbio to Arezzo

Got up at 6:37 and packed up. Went to breakfast of ham and cheese with bread, juice, apricot croissant, tea, milk and butter at 7:30.

Biked from the hotel in a large group at 8:31 in a thick fog and 56^o (13^o C). We biked in a valley on secondary roads until we reached the main road N219 at Mocaiana. Most in the group were turning on N219 but Mary and Barry Menne, Ed Hutton, Chris McLaughlin and I decided to stay on the route and secondary roads.

We started climbing and were quickly out of the fog into bright sunshine. We climbed several short steep hills descending across a stream to climb again. Bob Benhoff joined us on his motor scooter. We descended very steeply past a yellow caution sign with an exclamation mark on it to the highway just outside Pietralunga. We rode down along a stream for about 17 kilometers that was easy and pleasant riding.

We turned right and climbed up to Montone a small walled town. We rode through the gate in the wall and were soon in the main piazza. We talked to an English couple and their daughter with two grandkids who owned a home or B&B in town. They directed us to a small alimentari just off the piazza where they barbecue a pig’s leg every Tuesday. The lady sliced slabs of pork onto a fresh roll for a porcini panini for 1.80 € that was very tasty. It is getting warm at 79^o.

We thought there was only one road out of Montone but we descended off the mountain on a road not on our map back to the road we left to enter Montone. We decided to continue south to Umbertide before turning back north on a main road parallel to the autostrada. After about 15 kilometers we rejoined the route after adding several miles to our day. Again we followed a stream up a valley leaving Umbria and crossing into Tuscany. We soon turned right and climbed before descending on a switchbacked road. We entered the sizeable city of Arezzo on N73. We followed the centro signs to the Hotel Continentale at Via P Guido Monaco, 7 located at 43^o 27.771 N by 11^o 52.650 E 792’ elevation phone 39 055 7520251 at 4:35 and checked into room 338. I erased my data getting the cyclometer off my bike. We biked 71.3 miles climbing 4910’ while descending 5600’ in 7 climbs.

Withdrew 210 € ($256.52) from an ATM near the hotel. After a shower and washing my bike clothes we enjoyed wine and cheese on the hotel roof at 5:30. Wine and cheese has become an established tradition with us and we notice other groups doing the same. Walked to a store for 2 Moretti beers and a Coke for 1.80 €. Walked to the Guinness Pub for dinner 32 € at 7:10. I had a .5 liter Kilkenny 3.75 €, a Corsetini pizza, a .75 liter acqua frizzante and a Macedonia (mixed fruit in a sweet cream) with gelato 4 €. Anne had a Margarita pizza (tomato sauce and cheese), gelato with berries and two Cokes. We were back in the hotel room by 9:30.

September 28, 2005 Wednesday Bike Arezzo to Fiesole (Florence)

Got up at 6:47 and packed up. Went to breakfast of apricot roll, ham and cheese sandwich, milk and juice.

Jamie and Antoinette Fisher, Lew Frain. Pete Flaton, Barry Nelson, Joe Dumin, Chris Mortellaro and I biked from the hotel at 8:25. We followed the route on secondary roads for 25.6 km (15.9 miles) to Triana where we turned left to Terranuova. We stopped for a cream filled roll and milk for 1.60 € ($1.95). We continued on under the A1 Autostrada turning right on secondary roads not on our maps that basically ran between the A1 and N69 plus railroad tracks for 18.5 km (11.5 miles). We got on the N69 along the Arno River to Leccio where we stopped in a mall to eat lunch in a cafeteria. I had a proscuitto pizza 4 € and a liter of acqua frizzante 2.25 €.

We continued north on N69 climbing for a while before descending back to the Arno and following it around a big bend to Pontassieve. It was congested from here past Sieci where we turned right on a secondary road towards Fiesole. We started climbing immediately and it got steep then steeper. We topped the long climb, turned right and climbed some more. It was a long steep and hard climb but we finally reached the mountain top above Fiesole for a short coast down into town. We turned left up a very narrow alley to our Hotel Villa Bonelli on Via F Poeti at 43^o 48.397 N by 11^o 17.817 E phone 39 055 59513-598941 and checked into room 10 at 3:00. We biked 54.64 miles in 4:14:41 hours averaging 12.8 mph climbing 2470’ while descending 2260’ in 4 climbs.

Barry, Lew, Pete and I walked down to the Coop store that was closed at 3:40 and continued to a cafe where I had a .66 liter draft Moretti for 2.60 €. Returning to my room via the Coop store I showered and washed my bike clothes hanging them on a line I strung in my room. Our group gathered on the sunny veranda for wine, cheese and crackers at 5:00. We walked to the Etrusca a sidewalk cafe on the piazza for dinner. I had ravioli with walnuts, salad, mushroom and ham calzone, Macedonia (fruit in sweet cream) with gelato and a liter of acqua frizzante. Anne had a salsiccia (sausage) pizza, tiramasu and red wine with il conto (the bill) totaling 37 € ($45.14). We talked to Michelle from Los Angeles who was living there for 8 months. She was very helpful concerning local matters. We also talked to Dianne our young waitress from Holland. She was going home in two days before returning to a new job as an editor for a book publisher in Florence.

September 29, 2005 Thursday Florence

Got up at 6:45 and went to breakfast of croissant, butter, jelly, bread, cheese, milk and hot chocolate.

At 8:30 Lew, Kathleen, Anne and I caught the #7 bus in the Fiesole Piazza for 1 € each for the 30 minute ride to the main train station in Florence. We bought two day bus tickets for 7.60 € each. It is sprinkling with an occasional shower.

We walked to the Piazza de Giavanni and the Piazza de Duomo where we encountered several hundred demonstrators blowing whistles and other noise makers, chanting slogans and carrying GCIL signs from various cities in Tuscany. It started raining so we ducked under a sidewalk cafe umbrella for a hot chocolate and coffee 8.20 € ($10.00). Our waiter told us the demonstration was about wages.

We walked down Via del Calzaion past open markets and the brass boar by the Borsa (stock exchange). We entered the Palazzo Vecchio with it’s many sculptures outdoors including a large copy of the famous David sculpture au natural. We continued down to Ponta Vecchio crossing it checking out the shops. We caught a #13 bus to Piazza Michaelangelo with a bronze statue of David overlooking the city. It was a bit hazy with no sun so the pictures are not great. We ate lunch at a cafe off the piazza. I had a mushroom pizza 6.50 € and .5 liter acqua frizzante 1.50 € while Anne had a plain pizza 5.50 € and a Coke 3.50 €. We caught another #13 bus to the main train station and then a #7 back to Fiesole.

I stopped in the Coop for a large bag of mixed nuts and 4 Morretti beers for 5.20 €. Lew and I drank a Moretti with some nuts on the hotel veranda. Our group enjoyed wine, cheese and crackers on the veranda at 5:30.

The Nelsons were going to a special restaurant alone to celebrate Barry’s birthday and the Frains were having dinner with the Lefkos. At 7:00 Pete Flaton and Bob Benhoff joined Anne and I for dinner at the India Restaurant. We walked in and were informed they were not open until 8:00 so Bob suggested we go to the JJ Hill Irish pub for a beer. We walked in and found the entire bar lined with baskets of food and snacks. I had a .5 liter draft Harps Strong 4.50 € and Anne had a Shanty 3 €.

We returned to the India Restaurant about 8:00 for a delightful dinner of some of my favorite food. We had .75 liter acqua frizzante 2 €, three orders of pane (bread) 2.63 €, muglai (entre) lamb 8.50 €, muglai chicken 8 €, riso (rice) 2.45 €, two verdure (vegetables) 3.50 €, rice and milk (dessert) 3.55 €, chai (tea) 1.55 € and coperto (service) 2 € each.

September 30, 2005 Friday Florence

Got up at 6:53 and went to breakfast of croissant, bread, butter, jelly, milk, hot chocolate, peach yogurt, grapes and an apple.

At 9:00 caught the #7 bus for the 30 minute ride to the train station. Bought a Florence map 6.90 € to get through the city and out south tomorrow. Took a picture of the brass boar and walked to the Ponte San Triata noting the statues of the four seasons (2 women and 2 men). Walked to the Museo de Storia della Scienza 7.50 € each. We spent a












couple of hours in this very interesting museum with displays of old bikes, telescopes, microscopes, clocks, measuring devices, etc. including some of Galileo’s equipment. We headed for the San Croce Church and stopped at the Paolo e Francesca cafe for lunch. I had a ham, cheese, tomato and lettuce panini 1.80 €. Anne had a panini 1.80 € and a Coke 2.20 €. We went to the San Croce Church but couldn’t enter because we were wearing shorts. Returning to the station I bought and consumed a small blackberry tarte 1 € and a raspberry tarte 1 € that were delicious. Caught a #7 bus at 2:30 back to Fiesole.

Went to the JJ Hill Irish Pub at 6:40 for the myriad of snacks. During the next hour virtually everyone from our group showed up. I had a .5 liter Kilkenny Strong 4.50 € and Anne had a .25 liter Shanty. I later had a .25 liter Harp’s Strong. Most people left, but Anne and I decided to stay not being very hungry with all the snacks. We settled on two cheeseburgers and French fries for 15.50 €.

October 1, 2005 Saturday Bike Florence to Pisa

Ate a continental breakfast at 7:00.

A large group of us assembled in the piazza of Fiesole and biked down the mountain into Florence at 9:00. We skirted the eastern edge of the city heading south so the traffic wasn’t that bad. We crossed the Arno River on Ponte a S Niccolo and wound our way up the hill to the Piazza Michelangelo. Dominating the piazza is the bronze David exposing himself to the whole world. It must be humiliating for a king to be perpetually nude for all to see. It is a brilliant morning and the views overlooking Florence are magnificent. They are setting up for some kind of a ceremony and a big young police officer also a cyclist started talking to some of us about our route. He was very friendly and helpful.

We continued on Viale Galileo turning left on Via E Torricelli and then another left on SS2 Via Sanese. As we left the city at the bottom of the hill we saw a tremendous accident involving one or more cars and a motorcycle in pieces. It was time to climb and we did steeply. The large group started to spread out and fragment. Just short of Chiesanuova Pete Flaton’s front tire went flat from a piece of glass. Barry Nelson and I went back to help. We rolled into Chiesanuova and found most everyone at a cafe. I had a pomodoro e fromaggio panini and latte fresco for 3.40 €. When we came out with our food everyone was gone.

We caught up to some people before we rode into Empoli where we stopped at what looked like a warehouse food store for lunch. I bought a roll and .5 liter of milk for 1.20 €. I bummed some cheese from Pete for lunch with my bread.

The terrain flattened out quite a bit as we approached Pisa. We picked up N67 at Cascina and seemed to ride forever through city strung along the highway all the way to Pisa. We missed a turn out of a round about and wandered a bit until we came back to the same round about. This time we caught the correct exit and went straight to our hotel. We arrived at the Hotel La Pace on at 43^o 42.252 N by 10^o 23.954 E phone 39 050 29351/2 and checked into room 426 at 4:00. We walked our bikes down the street and around the corner to a parking garage. I biked 60.55 miles in 4:15:32 averaging 14.2 mph climbing 1270’ while descending 2140’ in 3 climbs. Barry, Lew and I had a .5 liter Moretti draft at a sidewalk cafe for 7.20 € each. Won’t do that again. We met on the rooftop about 10 floors up at 5:30 for wine and cheese. The view of Pisa was great.

We walked down a main street that was packed with young people for 4-5 blocks before crossing the river. We walked to the leaning tower of Pisa in the waning light. The cathedral and baptistry were also very impressive. We walked back to the river via another route and then along the river looking for a restaurant. We finally settled on the L’ Etichetta at 7:55. Our young waitress seemed very nervous and was constantly walking back and forth between our table and the rear of the restaurant. We would order one thing and she would take off to get it before we could order anything else. She was soon replaced by another young waitress that was very good and we soon had our meals. We had two liters of aqua frizzante 4 €, ravioli 4 €, shrimp ravioli 6 €, two insalata mista 6 €, and coperto 2 €.

October 2, 2005 Sunday Bike Pisa to Siena

Got up at 6:09 and “packed up. Went to breakfast of orange juice, croissant, bread, ham, cheese, butter, jelly and milk at 7:00.

At 8:06 Jamie and Antoinette Fisher, John and Barb Lefko, Chris Mortellero, Pete Flaton, Barry Nelson, Lew Frain, Carl Underwood and Ed Hutton biked from the hotel. We returned the way we came yesterday through the towns strung out along the highway. We turned right just past Cascina on a secondary road through Ponsacca to Camugliano. I stopped for a tuna panini and milk 3.20 €. Biking is easy as the road surface is good and almost flat riding down a valley with little traffic. Lew has planned our route on good roads around Volterra avoiding climbs. We are doing well until we draw even with Volterra we encounter a long steep climb up to N68. We turned left and soon stopped at a family run country restaurant called Locanda il Boschetto. I have tortellini with mushrooms and a liter of acqua frizzante. The food is very good.

We continue along N68 climbing and descending but nothing too long or steep. We pass the turn to San Gimignano through Colle di Val d’ Elsa. We turn right on N2 into Siena. We reach Hotel Minerva on Via Geribaldi, 72 at 43^o 19.464 N by 11^o 19.868 E phone 39 057 7284474 and check into room 205 at 4:10. I biked 71.11 miles in 5:24:56 averaging 13.1 mph climbing 3770’ while descending 2720’ in 3 climbs.

I bought and drank a Moretti beer in the large Conad store. We had wine and cheese in the closed hotel bar. It was raining off and on so we walked a couple blocks up to the China Town restaurant at 7:15. I had curry rice, soup, curry chicken, .75 liter acqua frizzante and .5 liter acqua frizzante. My food was okay but I should know better than to order curry in a Chinese restaurant. Anne had soup, sweet and sour shrimp, rice, fried ice cream and .5 liter red wine. She thought her food was very good. The lesson is order Chinese food in a Chinese restaurant. Our bill came to 26 €.

October 3, 2005 Monday Siena

Got up at 7:05 and went to breakfast of an egg, bread, butter, jelly, orange juice, milk, croissant, banana and nectarine. It is cool with an intermittent misting rain.

Walked to the Fortezza Medicea with it’s Piazza della Liberta with the Frains. Stopped by the San Domenico church but couldn’t enter because I was wearing shorts. Anne and the Frains walked to the Duomo for coffee while I returned to the hotel to put on long pants before meeting them at the Duomo. We waited in line entering il Duomo for 6 € each. The cathedral is spectacular with zebra striped walls, the floor, altar and other objects of art plus the arm of John the Baptist.

We walked to the large Piazza del Campo site of the famous Palio delle Contrade horse race held twice a year. The piazza is spectacular. We ducked into the less crowded San Paolo Pub. I had a chicken, cheese and piccante panini and a .5 liter draft Tetley while Anne had a proscuitto, fromaggio e pomodore panini and a Coke bringing our conto to 13.20 €.

Anne went shopping as I walked across the piazza to climb the 400+ steps up the bell tower for some great views of the city and surrounding countryside for 6 €. The tower is interesting to view it’s design as you rise in tight little squares hardly shoulder width taking care not to bang your head more than once. Anne and I stopped in the Caffe l’Academia for duo scoop gelatos for 1.60 € each. Also stopped in the Bottega Diana for 180 grams of chips 1.40 € and peanuts (arachides) 1.85 €.

Our group of eight had wine, cheese and crackers in the Minerva Hotel lobby at 5:00. There were other groups doing the same. We walked across town past il Campo looking for the Osteria Castelvecchio in our tour book. We found another osteria by another name where it should have been so we went around the corner to Trattoria di Dino a small family run place. I had a liter of acqua frizzante, pasta ragu, pork chop, French fries and grapes while Anne had minestrone zuppa, pork chop, insalata mista, a liter of acqua naturale and coffee bringing our conto to 37.20 €. It rained off and on all night especially while we ate but we managed to cross the city twice on foot without getting wet. Our bed in room 205 felt very good as touring tires me more than biking long distances over mountainous terrain. As I was drifting off to sleep I heard a large choir singing beautifully several Christian songs that I knew. I sounded like it was coming through our open balcony doors from above us in the city but I learned the next day they were practicing in our hotel. They were very good.

October 4, 2005 Tuesday Bike Siena to Piombino

Got up at 6:35, packed up and went to breakfast of croissant, bread, butter, jelly, milk, orange juice and a peach.

It is 58^o at 8:20 as we biked from the Minerva Hotel in Siena. It is threatening rain as we descend out of Siena headed southwest on N73 for 20 km. We do some climbing and descending on switchbacks but nothing too drastic. The route turns right off N73 at Castelletto over some nasty looking mountains with storm clouds hanging around their tops on a secondary road. Thirteen of us decide to stay on N73 for 3 km before turning right on N44 paralleling the route until it rejoins us in 28 km. We stop in a cafe/alimentari in Palazzetto where I have a large pear and a liter of milk 3.20 €. We continue on N73 with a few sprinkles but not enough to get wet. We suspect our friends on the mountain route are not faring as well.

Just before noon we turn off N73 to climb into Massa Maritania for lunch and hopefully miss the approaching storm clouds in front of us. We pass through the town wall up to the main piazza where we hole up in a large stone arched restaurant before it rains. Janet Olney and Susan Miltenberger are already there and others like Barry and Mary Menne, Kathy Brugh, Sue Clewell and Chris McLaughlin continue to come in. Bob Benhoff arrives on his motor scooter as it starts raining and says that our whole group is in town eating at different places. It is raining hard and steady with thunder and lightening. I have a plate of pasta with wild boar 7 € and a liter of acqua frizzante 2.20 €.

We try to wait it out but the rain continues. We decide to go when the rain lets up a little because we have a long way to go and we don’t want to be too late getting to our hotel. We mount our bikes and descend down through the town wall gate then very steeply down the badly switchbacked road. The rain starts coming in torrents as soon as we pass through the wall with frequent thunderclaps and lightening. Suddenly one flashes very close and we hear the roar simultaneously leaving the smell of ozone. We can hardly see as we grip our brakes as tight as we can still descending too fast. After what seems an interminable amount of time I reach the bottom to turn left on N44 and pull under the roof of a gas station. We are worrying and waiting for everyone to get down before continuing. Finally everyone is down safe and together.

We start off in a light rain that quits after about 5 minutes. We are going down slightly headed for the coast and breezing along at a good clip with little effort for 24 km even seeing some sunshine. We reach the coast at Follonica turning right on a main road for 5 km before getting off on small roads virtually on the beach. Jamie and Antoinette Fisher, Lew Frain, Barry Nelson, Ed Hutton, Pete Flaton, Mary and Barry Menne, Barbara and John Lefko, Joe Dumin, and Dan McQueen turned left on N398 into Piombino to our hotel high above but near the piers. We pulled into the Hotel Phalesia on Via Pacio Vannuci at 42^o 55.449 N by 10^o 32.596 E elevation 104’ phone 39 056 538122 and checked into garden room 116 at 4:30. I biked 69.81 miles in 4:56:28 hours averaging 14.1 mph climbing 3110’ while descending 4040’ in 4 climbs.

After a shower I had a bottle of Moretti and some chips. We assembled in the breakfast restaurant for wine and cheese. I called Kara, our daughter, as it is her birthday from the hotel lobby but had to leave a message. Carol Nelson drove us into Piombino center for supper as it is raining intermittently. We found a place on a pedestrian street with many restaurants. I had fruite di mar (seafood) pizza and a .5 liter Moretti while Anne had a Margarita pizza and .5 liter of red wine. Back in our room we tried to call Kara again but couldn’t get an outside line.

October 5, 2005 Wednesday Elba and Piombino

Got up at 6:35 and went to breakfast of yogurt, roll, pastry, tea and orange juice at 7:15.

Walked to the pier and bought our ferry tickets on the 9:00 ferry for 34 € at 8.50 € each for one way on the Moby Line. The weather doesn’t look good so we didn’t take our bikes. Carol and Barry Nelson with the car were on another ferry line leaving a half hour later.

Our ferry left at 9:15 for the very mountainous island of Elba which was clearly in site although about 9 miles distance. We arrived in Portoferreio on Elba and I withdrew 150 € ($181.78 at $1.2118) from an ATM. Carol and Barry were waiting so we drove west along the mountainous coast. We stopped in Marcianna Marina a nice tourist town with a pretty little harbor. Walking down a narrow street Barry and I stopped at the Ultima Spiaggia for an apple cinnamon rum crepe 4.50 € each ordered through a window. We walked along the harbor front until we found the Frains, Anne and Carol in the Zorba Cafe at 12:30. I had a lobster pasta 9.50 € and aqua frizzante 2 € with pane e coperto 2 € came to 13.50 €.

We drove up a very narrow high and steep switchbacked mountain road to the top where we could see the sea in both directions. It is a park and we saw people gathering chestnuts along the way. It is a bit scary and very beautiful as we descend into Marina di Campo. It is an easy drive back to Portoferraio where we stop at a large UniCoop store. I spend 10.82 € for a pear, an apple, two bananas, peanut M&Ms and two chocolate almond bars. Waiting for the ferry we have another gelato for 1.65 € each. Our ferry to Piombino leaves at 4:43 and we arrive at our hotel at 5:53.

Carol drove us into town center arriving in a hard rain at 7:00. We avoid the splashing cars entering Lo Scogliatto for supper. I had a insalata mista 3.62 €, a whole fish 18 € (at 6 € per 100 grams) and a .4 liter Nastro Azurra alla spina (draft) 3.10 € while Anne had a pizza 5.16 €, insalata mista 3.62 € and white wine 2.50 € plus service (coperto) 1.55 € each for a total of 39.18 €. We talked to a young Scot from Glasgow at another table working in Piombino for a month.

October 6, 2005 Thursday Bike Piombino to Grosseto

Got up at 6:35, packed up and went to breakfast of peach yogurt, croissant, bread, milk, butter and jelly at 7:00.

Jamie and Antoinette Fisher, Lew and Kathleen Frain, Barry Nelson, Pete Flaton, Ed Hutton, Carl Underwood, Gloria Smiddy, Barry Miller, Jean Stiller, Tom Heine and I biked from the hotel at 8:20 in the cool morning. We biked back the way we came two days ago along the coast to Follonica. We continued down the coast another 11 kilometers to Plan d’Alma. En route we stopped in Portiglione but I bought nothing because they had only packaged pastries and coffee. We turned left leaving the coast for 35 kilometers into Grosseto at 11:45. We did some climbing and down hills that were gradual and more rolling for some easy biking. At a round about outside Grosseto we came upon a group of about 15 German cyclists that stopped for lunch. We stopped and Pete Flaton had a good conversation with a nice Bavarian lady in the group.

We all stopped at the Paninoteca cafe in Grosseto for lunch. I had a caldo panini with proscuitto, fromaggio e pomodoro and a .4 liter Ceres alla spina for 5.70 €. Everyone left except Pete and I. Pete got talking in German to a friendly local at the next table who had worked in Munich for many years and spoke with a heavy Bavarian accent.

We turned through the city wall gate to the Grand Hotel Bastiani on the Piazza Gioberti, 64 at 42^o 45.589 N by 11^o 6.781 E phone 39 056 420047 and checked into room 311 at 1:30. We walked our bikes several blocks outside the city wall to a parking garage and locked them up. I biked 45.44 miles in 3:05:23 hours averaging 14.6 mph climbing 840’ while descending 880’ in 1 climb.

Lew and I walked to the main piazza by the basilica for an alla spina beer which Lew bought negotiating the price down to 5 €. They saw us coming (dumb American tourists). We had wine and cheese in the 2nd floor hotel bar at 5:00.

At 7:00 Barry led us to a restaurant that he had spotted today called the Danubio Blu. The owner and chef was an Italian with a Viennese wife. We were served large antipasta platters of meats for two. More platters were served some of pasta and some of rice and then more platters of mixed grill (chicken, beef, pork, sausage, eggplant, peppers, etc., etc). We finished with a cake topped with custard and whipped cream. My bill for Anne and I was 37.40 €. The owner and chef came out to talk to us about our meal and then invited us to see his museum in the back room. It was a big room loaded with memorabilia and antiques and quite interesting. He came back and invited us to see his dungeon. We walked through an iron gate down narrow stone steps into lower stone chambers on different levels. He had many medieval torture machines with graphic picture drawings of how they were used. It was grotesque. I recognized the rack but few of the other machines. Returning up the stairs we hoped he had not locked the iron gate at the top trapping us underground. It was refreshing to walk back to the hotel in the cool damp night air.

October 7, 2005 Friday Bike Grosseto to Viterbo

Got up at 6:30, packed up and went to breakfast of tea, croissant, bread, butter, jam and juice.

At 8:15 Ed Hutton, Pete Flaton and I biked through the city wall gate and out of town headed south towards Rome. We had gone about a mile and I realized we were headed in the wrong direction. We were directed this way by the hotel desk lady and I should have known better as she had misdirected us to the parking garage yesterday. We turned around skirting Grosseto and turned right on N322 headed southeast. It is cool and threatening rain so some people are taking the train to shorten the ride and miss the mountains.

It is mountainous and remote so we are doing a lot of climbing. Pete is having trouble with his rear wheel so we stop a few times to check everything. Finally Pete determines that it is his rear wheel bearing. I suggest he ride until it gives out but he is worried it might damage the hub. Ed got out his cell phone to call a van but we discuss whether Pete should be picked up where we are or should he ride into Scansano to be picked up. After fooling with his wheel some more and testing it, Pete determines that it is okay.

We stop in Scansano at the Bar La Posta and I have a panini 2 € and a latte fresco 1 €. The route is rugged as we climb over a ridge before racing down the other side across a stream then up again which we repeat several times. We begin a long climb into Manciano and it starts to sprinkle half way up. As we pull into town at 444 meters (1457’) elevation it turns into a steady light rain and it is colder. I put on my rain jacket and we stop for lunch at the Pizzasi di Pantaleo Rosalba at 12:00. We are wet and chilled as I have some pizza and bottled water. I ask a man for directions to Ponte S. Pietro and he gives me very positive directions.

We finish lunch and it is still raining lightly as we head out of town down the mountain and it stops raining. We soon realize we are headed in the wrong direction so we climb back to town to circle it for the correct way. We come back to the main square where we ate and Ed notices a small sign for Viterbo pointing down a side street which we follow. We descend down the mountain to the valley and a nice easy ride for several kilometers as the sun comes out. It would remain sunny until we were almost to Viterbo when it became overcast again.

We biked through Ponte S. Pietro and Canino where we encountered some more mountains. We climbed up to Tessannano and then Arlena di Castro. I descended a mountain just before Tuscania crossing a stream and started climbing with Pete behind me. I couldn’t see Ed so I slowed then stopped and waited. Ed never showed up. Pete and I realized he was having problems so we turned around and started climbing back up the mountain. We found Ed half way up working on his back tire. The rear brake pad had worn down rubbing the tire sidewall causing a blowout. Fortunately Ed had a spare tube and tire. He put them on and I adjusted his brake pad so it would not rub the tire.

We were soon in Tuscania where we turned left on a main road heading east into Viterbo. The terrain was hilly but not bad relatively speaking as the traffic slowly increased as did the cloud cover. We got inside the wall of the city and were hopelessly lost without a city map. We asked several times for directions which didn’t help much. Outside the wall and back in again we came across Jamie and Antoinette shopping in the old city. The way to the hotel was so convoluted that they volunteered to walk us back to the hotel which was quite a distance. Thank you!

We arrived at the Mini Palace Hotel outside the city wall at the intersection of Via Santa Maria di Gradi and Via S. Maria d. Grotticella phone 39 076 1309742/3 located at 42^o 24.641 N by 12^o 6.629 E and checked into room 202 at 6:00. I biked 87.03 miles in 7:14:18 hours averaging 11.9 mph climbing 6380’ while descending 5260’ in 6 climbs.

I was parched so I had a bottle of Baffo d’Oro beer for 2.50 € in the hotel. Carol, Kathleen and Anne decided not to eat supper so Jamie and Antoinette Fisher, Lew Frain, Barry Nelson, Pete Flaton, Ed Hutton, Bob Benhoff, Gary Kelly, Chuck Plummer, John Grice and I walked through the city wall gate into old town in light rain to La Pontolaccia. I had funghi pasta 8 €, sausage and potatoes 7.50 €, mixed salad 2.50 €, two .75 liter acqua frizzante 3.20 € and coperto (service with bread) 2 € totaling 23.20 €.

October 8, 2005 Saturday Bike Viterbo to Rome (Fiumicino)

I’m up at 6:24 to pack up and go to breakfast of two rolls, croissant, tea and juice. It has rained all night, continues to rain and the web forecast according to John Grice is even worse with no change from yesterday. I don’t want to get wet in the cold rain so I’m interviewing to find a way to our hotel in Fiumicino without getting wet with no success. Lew and company are taking a train halfway then biking to cut down on the distance. This is unacceptable to me since I like to bike the full distance and would dread getting off the train to bike in the rain. I try to avoid conflict but when I find it is unavoidable I dive into it with everything I have. I decide to ride from our hotel then Pete and Ed say they will come with me. Chris McLaughlin overhears us and asks if she can join us. Great! We have a small team of tough minded strong riders.

Our hotel is located on the southeast corner of Viterbo the direction we want to go so we don’t have to go through the city. At 8:55 Chris, Pete, Ed and I head south on the Via S. Maria d. Grotticella in the steady cold rain. We start climbing almost immediately with the gradient slowly increasing. We come to a major intersection turning left up the mountain. We pass the large ospedale (hospital) complex passing through St. di S. Martino up to S. Martino al Cimino a small walled town at 561 meters (1841’) elevation. I’m soaking wet from sweat inside my rain coat. We’re not sure of our direction but Ed remembered that we biked through the town in the other direction 15 days ago on our way to Orvieto. We bike through the gate in the wall and up very steeply on a slick and dangerous wet cobblestone street. We pass through the other wall and continue our long climb with over 10% grade. This is where Antoinette fell descending. After 2.3 km we reached the intersection at the top at over 983 meters (3225’) elevation.

We turn left and descend steeply clinging to our brakes to control our speed on the slick pavement. Our hands are cramping in the wet and windy cold. We pass along the west side of Lago di Vico then across the bottom. We turn right at the stop sign and soon pass through Ronciglione and then Sutri. I recognize everything now and am anticipating the turns. I have adapted to the rain and cold and am quite comfortable. We have another long climb but not so steep before descending riding our brakes all the way to the north shore of Lago Bracciano. I have no back brake by now and realize I cannot adjust it up anymore. Ed has an old pad so I put it on my bike which gives me some back brake. Janet Olney, Susan Miltenberger, Mark McMillan, Mike Harris and Susanne Morsberger pass us as we get cold while stopped. We are near Trevignano which we enter stopping at a cafe for tea 1 € at 11:20.

We continued around the eastern shore of Lago Braccianno to Anguillara. On the way out of town we stopped at a small family restaurant for gnocchi Sorrentino and acqua frizzante for 10 €. We got almost dry and warm. The rain almost stopped and we thought we had it made. We continued south staying straight moving at a good pace in a light rain. I was not tracking where we were on the map so when we reached the N1 out of Rome I thought we were at another spot. Consequently we turned right for a couple of miles until we were about to get on the A12 Autostrada. Chris realized where we actually were so we backtracked to the route and continued.

We followed our previous route through Maccarese and Fregene though we stopped often not sure if we were headed in the right direction. The rain was increasing and there were many pools of water some across the road. We were riding in a lot of water. We finally came to the end of the Fiumicino (Rome) Airport runway and felt quite good. It is raining hard now and ever increasing as we ride parallel to the runway. The pools of water are getting larger and it is getting dark and hard to see. That must be the longest runway in the world but we finally turned right into the city of Fiumicino. We easily found the one bridge over the canal and followed the one way signs around until we came back to the bridge. It is a torrential rain now the road covered in water and very hard to see. A policeman in a car said it was okay for us to go up a one way road the wrong way so we did. It is the road we came down 15 days ago. We had no trouble finding our hotel pulling in under a pavilion out the rain coming in buckets to the cheers of some mates working on their bikes. I was worried about Chris but she said she had fun with which I agreed so we hugged and exchanged hugs among the four of us.

I arrived at the Hotel Club Isola Sacra on Via Della Scafa, 416 in Ostia phone 39 066 5029864 and checked into room 315 at 4:55. I biked 70.87 miles in 5:21:20 averaging 13.1 mph climbing 2590’ while descending 3720’ in 2 climbs. I bought a .5 liter Peroni for 5 € at the hotel bar to drink with our wine and cheese. The Frains, Nelsons and Bob Benhoff walked to the La Locanda for dinner with us. I had fettucine 7.50 €, salsicce 4 €, verdure grigliate 3 €, patate fritte 3 € and a liter of acqua frizzante 1.50 €. Anne had scallopine 8 €, insalata 3 €, patate fritte 3 € and .25 liter of red wine. Our bill including coperto was 36.50 €.

October 9, 2005 Sunday Sorrento and Amalfi Coast

Got up at 6:50 and packed my small backpack for a two day trip with no biking. Went to breakfast of juice, milk, croissant, two rolls, butter, jelly and peach yogurt. I dismantled Anne and my bikes boxing them for the plane home. Water came out of holes and crevices on my bike that I didn’t know existed.

At 10:15 the Nelsons drove us to the GRA (Rome beltway) then down the A1 Autostrada past Naples to Sorrento. Just past Sorrento we checked into room 324 of the Hotel La Solara for 110 € at 1:15. Carol drove us around the mountainous point at 2:30 stopping for lunch 18 € at 3:00 at the Mira Capri with it’s spectacular view. We had ravioli at 5.50 € each, a birra media 2.50 € and a Coke 2 €. Coperto is 1.25 € each. Carol drove down the Amalfi Coast along the narrow winding cliff side road through the picturesque towns of Positano overlooking the Sirenuse Islands of Homer’s Odyssey and Amalfi. The coast is still breath taking even after our visit five years ago. We crossed over the mountains to Castelammare di Stabia on our way back to Sorrento arriving at our hotel in the dark at 7:30. Naples is beautiful across the bay at night.

I put on long pants and we went downstairs to the dining room for the Sunday gala dinner for 30 € each with a piano player. The setting was immaculate, the service impeccable and the meal delectable. We started with a light sweet drink and small breads with different cheese spreads. We had an antipasta plate with meats, asparagus and other delicacies. A stuffed pasta followed. The primi plate was steak, twice baked potato and eggplant. The meal was capped by a light custard and chocolate dessert. I had a Beck’s beer with my meal. What more could you ask for, a truly memorable evening.

October 10, 2005 Monday Capri and Back to Rome (Fiumicino)

Got up at 6:12 and packed my few belongings in my small backpack. Went to breakfast of two rolls, butter, jelly, juice, hot chocolate and yogurt at 7:05.

Carol drove to the Sorrento pier and we caught the Linee Maritime Partenopee (LMP) jet boat that departed at 8:08 for 46 € for two (11.50 € per person each way) arriving at Marina Grande on the Isle of Capri at 8:45.

We paid .50 € to use the toilette which is common especially in southern Italy. We took the bus 1.30 € each up to Anacapri which is a very exciting and scenic cliff side ride. We did some window shopping before taking a chairlift 3 € to the top of Monte Solaro 584 meters (1916’) elevation the highest point on Capri. We enjoyed walking around in the sun taking pictures of the 360o views. Back down in Anacapri I had a great peach gelati cone for 2 € and later an interesting pizza for 1.60 €. We entered S. Michele with its beautiful



















inlaid floor murals of the Garden of Eden and Adam’s expulsion. I climbed to the loft for a grand view of the whole floor. We mistakenly took the bus 1.30 € to Capri. We then caught another bus 1.30 € to Grande Marina. Waiting for our next LMP ferry I had a banana gelati cone for 2 €. We caught the 1:00 ferry running a little late back to Sorrento.

We retrieved the car at 2:05 and Carol and then Barry drove us back to our Hotel Club Isola Sacra on Via Della Scafa, 416 near Fiumicino Airport phone 39 066 5029864 arriving at 5:45. I walked to the alimentari for a .66 liter Peroni 1 €. Our group walked to the Chi Cerca Trova for supper 40 €. I had spaghetti in olive oil, garlic, basil and red pepper 6.50 €, porcini, funghi and cheese ravioli 6.50 €, insalata mista 3 €, a liter of acqua frizzante 1.50 € plus coperto 1.50 €. Anne had the ravioli 6.50 €, salad 3 €, white wine 8 €, coffee 1 €, ice cream 3 € and service 1.50 €.

October 11, 2005 Tuesday Fly Rome via Atlanta to Baltimore

Got up at 6:00 showered and packed up. Went to breakfast at 7:00. Gary Kelly and help were loading our bike boxes and shuttling them to the airport. We waited for the 8:00 bus that arrived at 8:45. Our bikes were waiting at curbside when we arrived at the airport. I got a cart and we carted our bikes and luggage through the crowded airport finding our check-in desk at the far end of the terminal. There was a dispute over whether we should pay for our bikes or not but Gary had documentation from Delta saying we would not be charged. We waited in line with no one moving while the clerks got clearance on the bikes. It finally came and it really upset a woman supervisor. She was giving the man checking Anne and I in a lot of guff but he waived her off smiling and put luggage tags on our bike boxes which I left by the check-in desk. I was in the security line for the boarding gate when I was retrieved to move my bike boxes. About 10 of us followed a Delta employee back through the crowded terminal to another desk for oversized luggage. We waited for a while and then were led further through the terminal. Here a man scanned our boxes and our bikes were loaded on a nearby elevator. We were finally free to proceed through security to our boarding gate.

We boarded Delta flight 71 in seat 35A and 35B on a B 767-300 and took off roughly on time at 10:55 am from Rome (FCO) for the 11 hour flight to Atlanta (ATL) arriving at 3:55 pm. We were all seated in the same relative position as coming over to Rome. We received the same service as well.

We landed in Atlanta passing through immigration to pick up our bikes and luggage before going through customs. I was asked what was in the boxes to which I responded “bikes” and was waived through. We rechecked our bikes and luggage before proceeding to the train which took us from terminal E to terminal C. We boarded Delta flight 1145 in seats 13C and 13D and waited about 45 minutes until about half of our group boarded at once. We took off close to 6:00 pm from Atlanta (ATL) to Baltimore (BWI) arriving at 7:03 pm.

We waited until all the luggage was off the plane but no bikes from Atlanta. We waited in line to file a claim for lost luggage and were told they probably would be on the next plane from Atlanta in 20 minutes. We couldn’t wait because Barry’s daughter-in-law Jennifer was waiting with his van at curbside and had to move. We arrived home about 8:45. Our bikes were delivered the next morning as requested.