BIKE BORDEAUX TO ALPE d'HUEZ

This is the third leg of a six and a half week bike and hike tour of Italy and France. On this leg I biked for 13 days through the Dordogne River valley, the Vecennes Mountains and into the Alps across France. I biked 702.9 miles in 60:12 hours climbing 46,860 feet and descending 40,580 feet. I biked through endless vineyards, past hundreds of Chateaus and through dozens of stunning medaevil towns. I biked through great rugged Alpine scenery highlighted by climbs of Mount Ventoux and Alpe d’Huez made famous by the Tour de France. I enjoyed many fruit tartes, fine red wines, local cheeses and cuisine.

June 25 Saturday Train Aix, Provence, France to Bourdeaux, France

Got up at 7:00 and packed up. Went downstairs to breakfast of yogurt, bread, croissant, hot chocolate, butter and jelly.at 8:05. After checking out of the hotel I walked around town purchasing a Grand rondonee Map for all of France for 5.20 €.

I boarded Train 17411 in Aix en Provence that departed at 11:17 along the coast through Cannes to Marseille at 11:50. I called Anne on my French calling card. I tried to call Wide Open Road but kept getting a busy signal as I was dialing wrong. Had a ham and cheese sandwich with a bottle of carbonated water for 6.00 € ($7.14).

I boarded Train 4758 in coach 21 seat 75 departing Marseille at 12:53 for Bordeaux. The 5:35 hour ride took me along the coast and then inland through endless vineyards. I bought a bottle of Evian water for 2.40 € ($2.95). Arrived in Bordeaux at 18:28. My ticket cost 62.00 € ($75.81).

I still couldn’t call Wide Open Road so I checked witn information and they told me how to dial correctly. I called Andrew Rowland and he told me the hotel name. I walked out of the station turning right for about 100 yards and checked into room 316 at the Kyriad Hotel located at 44° 49.449 N by 0° 33.556 W at 6:45. My roommate is Roger from Melbourne, Australia. He is napping, still recovering from his long flight. I recovered my bag with my biking and camping gear from the truck.

At 7:30 Chuck Corum (retired Geology professor San Diego, California), Wayne Whiting (Christchurch, New Zealand), Roger, Helen (Australian teacher living in Bangkok, Thailand) and I walked to a nearby restaurant for supper. I had a beer, Nicoise salade, sauman (salmon), mixed vegetables, rice and cre’me brule’e. Walking back we saw Matt (Australian living in London), Clare Holdsworth (Australian nurse living in London), Kasey (Australian nurse living in London), Andrew Rowland (English living in Sydney, Australia), Suzie Coughey (Sydney, Australia), Anne Spalding (Math professor from Grand Junction, Colorado), Tony (bike mechanic from Christchurch, New Zealand) and Lowell Bethel (Seattle, Washington) having a drink at a sidewalk cafe. We stopped for two beers in the pleasant evening weather and was treated by Lowell.

June 26 Sunday Bike Bourdeaux to St Emilion, France

Got up at 6:40 and packed up loading my gear on the van. Ate breakfast of fruit salad, orange juice, bread, butter, jelly and hot milk at 8:00.

Biked as a group from the hotel at 10:00 winding our way out of Bordeaux. We biked southeast until we stopped at 11:50 in Cadillac for a ham and cheese sandwich and a .33 liter (11.2 oz) Perrier for 4.70 € ($5.78). Underway again I was riding with Wayne, Matt, Donna Lee (Economist for the State Department living in Geneva, Switzerland), Richard Fortune and wife Cindy DeMotte (Los Angeles area). We slowly turned until we are headed north riding quickly through the rolling countryside of vineyards as the temperature rose into the 90s (>32° C). We stopped at a bar in St Emilion at 3:40 for a draft beer 2.40 € ($2.95) and a Perrier 2.40 € in 97° (36° C). Richard and Cindy went shopping for wine and other things as the rest of us biked the mile or so to Domaine de la Barbanne located at 44° 55.020 N by 0° 08.362 E at 4:03. We biked 51.5 miles (83 km) in 3:45:20 hours averaging 13.7 miles per hour (mph) (22.1 km) reaching a maximum 34.0 mph (54.8 kmph) climbing 1480’ (451 m) while descending 1380’ (421 m) in 1 climb (>=100’).

Richard and company had the pavillion set up and Sylvia had tea ready. Tea each day consisted of local fare such as fruits, vegetables, bread and cheese plus hot and cold drinks. Set up my tent , washed my biking clothes and jumped into the swimming pool simply floating for a long time to lower my body temperature. Bought a liter (33.8 oz) of Perrier and a big bag of potato chips (crisps) for 4.70 € ($5.78) and consumed them. The chips, which I never eat, are for salt that gets depleted when riding in hot weather.

At 7:05 Andrew started car shuttling us into St Emilion. We walked around town which is beautiful. Located on a hillside the town has two levels. From the top level by the cathedral you can see across the plane for miles. The town is very neat, clean and artsy restored to its original condition of a few hundred years ago with narrow cobblestoned streets. At 8:00 we all converged on the Amelia Dante located on the lower level town square. We ate outside in the square with the pleasant night air. I had rose wine, salmon salad, fish, rice, vegetables and ice cream.

June 27 Monday Bike St Emilion to Limeuil

At 7:04 got up, packed my gear and took down my tent leaving everything by the van. Ate breakfast of cherries, melon, Alpen (granola like cereal) and milk at 7:38.

It is already hot with no air movement as I biked from camp at 8:38. Today I will bike alone asI try to survive the heat and establish my own routine for the trip. I am amazed at the endless vineyards. Every little crossroads has 3-4 chateau signs pointing in each direction. There must be thousands of vineyards in this area. I am headed east in a sqiggly line. The tar is popping like bubble gum under my bike wheels. I got off the route due to a missing sign in Pesac adding 2.8 miles to my day. At 69 km (42.8 miles) into the route I stopped at the Mombazillac winery chateau for a WOR lunch in 93° (34° C) in the shade. I ate cous cous, peppers, lettuce, breaf, melon, cheeries, cheese, etc. for lunch. Walked around the large and beautiful chateau with it’s manacured landscaping.

I stopped with a Swedish cyclist and talked for some time. He is from Gotenberg and riding a loaded bike with bulging panniers. His destination for today is different from mine but I would see him again for the next 2-3 days. I stopped in a store in Lanquais for a can of Perrier for 2.00 € ($2.46). There are rumors that Perrier stock has risen significantly and there is a national crises due to a fruit tarte shortage since I arrived in France. After following the river and a couple of nasty surprise little climbs I biked into Port de Limeuil located on the Dordogne River at 44° 52.875 N by 0° 53.232 E at 4:38 in 102° (39° C). I biked 71.81 miles (116 km) in 6:12:35 hours averaging 11.5 mph (18.5 kmph) reaching a maximum 31.0 mph (50 kmph) climbing 2690’ (820 m) while descending 2590’ (789 m) in 7 climbs.

I bought a liter of Perrier for 1.95 € ($2.40) at the camp store and inhaled it as I set up my tent and washed my biking clothes. I have three biking shirts, shorts and socks so I have to wash every day in case something doesn’t dry overnight. I got in the swimming pool for a long leisurely float while some people swam in the river. I bought another liter of Perrier and drank it at tea where I consumed quite a bit of watermelon. Most people walked into Limeuil for supper but Chuck and I ate at the camp. I had a ham, pepper and mushroom pizza 7.20 €, green salad 2.40 € and my third liter (33.8 oz) of Perrier 1.95 € totaling 11.55 € ($14.21). A gusting wind picked up and dark clouds rolled in threatening rain as predicted but we got only a handful of drops not enough to even make things damp.

June 28 Tuesday Bike Limeuil Sarlat

Got up at 7:04 and packed up. Ate breakfast of Alpen, milk, fruit salad and a banana at 7:45. Took down my tent and left my gear by the van.

Biked from camp at 9:15 for 6 km into La Bugue a busy market town. I had trouble finding the route out as it went through several blocks of packed shoppers. Climbing out of town I stopped at a prehistoric site next to the road. Todays destination is only 23 miles east of Limueil with the route in an S curve. I decided to take the longer optional routre to see the prehistoric paintings in Grotte de Lascaux II an exact replica of the original cave. I biked through Savignac de Miremont and Rouffignac with their prehistoric sites and caves. I stopped at Chateau de Losse.

Entering Montignac I stopped at the Inter Marche for a liter milk .96 €, peach (peche) .78 €, tomato .23 € and Bing cherries .58 € for 2.55 € ($3.14). I thought there was a power failure as the lights blinked off and a few minutes later went out as the manager ushered a dumb American to the cash register for the 11:30 a.m. closing. I consumed my purchases in the empty parking lot. Biking into town I was circling trying to find the route out and Grotte de Lascaux II when Chuck rode in. We searched the town and decided to have lunch at Le Tourney Flannagus. I had salade Nicoise 7.50 € and .33 liter Perrier 2.60 € totaling 10.10 € ($12.42).

Following signs to Lascaux on our bikes we realized one said there were no tickets at the cave but we must purchase them at the visitors center in town. We returned to town purchasing our tickets for a tour at 2:50 in English for 8.00 € ($9.84). We had time to kill as we biked up the steep hill to Lascaux about 3 km from town. The 40 minute tour was very interesting and informative. About the middle of the tour I heard my name and it was Anne Spalding the sag car driver today.

It was 3:50 when we exited the cave and we had a long way to go on the route. We decided to take a shortcut on D704 directly back to Sarlat. The highway shoulder was good so we moved along quite well with no problem despite some traffic. Entering Sarlat we followed a sign for a hospital with the same name as our campground. We climbed a good hill before the road dead ended. Returning we entered old town Sarlat and found our way to Camping Les Perieres located at 44° 53.652 N by 1° 13.629 E at 5:30. I biked 51.07 miles (83 km) in 4:53:09 hours averaging 10.4 mph (16.8 kmph) reaching a maximum 30.0 mph (48 kmph) climbing 3810’ (1161 m) while descending 3230’ (985 m) in 5 climbs.

It is hot as I bought a liter of Perrier for 1.50 € at he camp store and drank it. I ate some bread, cheese and cherries at tea before setting up my tent and washing my biking clothes as I showered. I didn’t deel like going quite a distance into town for dinner so I ate at the campground. I had a draft beer 2.10 € ($2.58), a green salad, steak, French fries and water for 10.00 € ($12.30).

June 29 Wednesday Bike Sarlat to St Cere

It rained during the night. Got up at 7:15 and packed up.At breakfast of fruit salad, cereal and croissant at 8:00. It rained off and on. I took down my tent during one of the lulls. I stayed under the pavillion waiting for the rain to stop. I started to leave a couple of times when it started raining heavily again.

It stopped raining at 9:30 and tired of waiting I decided to go despite threatening clouds. I biked from camp and met Chuck riding together into Sarlat. I stopped at an ATM withdrawing 200.00 € ($245.51). There is a light rain but not enough to get wet. We biked out of town and made a wrong turn at a fork in the road. Returning to the route we picked up a bike path into Carsac where we returned to the road. Stopped in Ste Mondane for a banana and a pear for 1.20 € ($1.45). The weather cleared and it turned into a nice day with temperatures lower than they have been. Stopped in Lemothe-Fenelon for a .33 liter (11.1 oz) Perrier at 2.50 € ($3.08). I had a Perrier, lamb chops and scalloped potatoes for lunch for 19.00 € ($23.37) plus 1.00 € ($1,23) tip in Payrac with Suzie and Roger.

Biked down through a canyon and up to Rocamadour. It is unique as it is built on an almost vertical cliff face. A fort is at the top of the cliff protecting the town, a large cathedral in the middle and a river at the bottom. I walked down the cliff face on a steep switchbacked path to the impressive cathedral the pilgrimage objective of many. I talked briefly with Cindy and Richard. I continued down the 223 steps (I counted 197) of the Via Sancta to the main street with shopping. After enjoying the premier raspberry tarte 2.50 € ($3.08) I climbed back up to the cliff top.

Biked through pretty countryside into St Cere and had to search a little for Le Soulhol camp located in town at 44° 51.491 N by 1° 53.889 E at 5:10. I biked 57.4 miles (93 km) in 4:29:04 hours averaging 12.8 mph (20.6 kmph) reaching a maximum 37.0 mph (60 kmph) climbing 3400’ (1036 m) while descending 3590’ (1094 m) in 5 climbs.

Set up my tent and enjoyed red wine, bread, cheese and watermelon at tea. Showered washing my clothes. We walked along the river about two blocks to a group meal at the Victor Hugo. We had our own room upstairs at one of the best restqurqnts in France. I had salad, lamb, potato, vegetables in a sauce, bread rolls, butter, red wine and a strawberry shell tarte.

June 30 Thursday Bike St Cere to Conques

Got up at 7:30 in 70° and packed up. Ate breakfast of Alpen, fruit salad and a croissant at 8:00. Took down my tent and left gear by the van.

Biked from camp at 9:09 and started a long climb. After 22 km I stopped in Latronquiere at 10:20 and bought coffee for Anne, Donna, Wayne and Matt plus a Perrier for me for 10.00 € ($12.30). Anne found a patisserie and bought me a strawberry tarte. I biked down into the River Cele then up again and down to the River Lot. At 1:20 after 64 km I stopped at the Hotel du Pont in Port d’Agres for Perrier, melon and ham, bread, spaghetti, steak and flan for 12.00 €. Helen arrived and ate as well. Biked into camp Beau Rivage in Conques located at 44° 36.009 N by 2° 23.442 E at 3:40 in 82°. I biked 51.2 miles in 4:26:15 hours averaging 11.5 mph reaching a maximum 31.0 mph climbing 2970’ while descending 2730’ in 3 climbs.

I set up my tent and walked with Helen to the Roman Bridge for pictures. We walked up steeply into Conques hidden in a deep valley. It is the finest old village I have ever seen. We walked through the cathedral and upstairs watching the organist practice. There is a gold statue of Ste Foy along with golden Roman treasures. We stopped for a Perrier, apricot tarte and an Orangina for 3.86 € ($4.75). Walked back to camp for tea, then showered washing clothes. Bought a WOR Bordeau to Alpe d’Huez biking shirt for 50.00 € ($61.50). Bought a 1664 can of beer for 3.00 € ($3.69) at the camp store and drank it. At 7:30 we all walked up to Conques for a WOR supper at 8:00 at the Ste Foy Hotel second floor. I sat with Richie, Sylvia, Donna, Helen and Wayne. I ate a vegetable terrine with sour cream, salad (corn, bread, lettuce, beets, potatoes, anchovies, carrots and tomatoes), beef, potatoes, carrots, onions and an orange and vanilla parfait with crusted marangue. We had a few light rain showers. Walked back to camp and to bed at 12:00.

July 1 Friday Bike Conques to St Geniez d'Olt

Got up at 7:08 and packed up in 58o. Had Alpen, fruit salad and a croissant for breakfast at 8:00. Took down a wet tent and left my gear by the van.

Biked from camp at 9:21 biking most of the day along the River Lot. At 28 km I turned right over an old stone bridge into Estraygues where I bought a liter of milk, banana and nectarine for 2.00 € and an apricot tarte 1.35 € at a nearby patisserie. I had no means to carry my purchases on my bike so I consumed them. Refreshed I biked on to Estaing at 46 km where I took several pictures from another old stone bridge.

I stopped in St Come d’Olt at 1:15 after 59 km for lunch with Andrew and Suzie. I had a buffet salad, fish, potatoes and vaniila ice cream 13.50 € ($16.61) plus a Perrier for 2.50 €. I walked through a small portal down a narrow alley to the town square to see the curved church tower. Biked though some pretty countryside down a hill to St Geniez across a stream then back and down to Camp Marmotel located at 44° 27.666 N by 2° 57.902 E at 3:45 in 74°. I biked 52.31 miles (84 km) in 4:18:15 averaging 12.1 mph (19.5 kmph) reaching a maximum 31.5 mph (51 kmph) climbing 2110’ (643 km) while descending 1430’ (436 m) in 1 climb.

Set up my tent, showered and washed clothes. Enjoyed bread and marinated tomatoes, chocolate chip cookies and red wine at tea. Walked to the camp restaurant for a draft Kronenbourg beer 2.00 € ($2.46) on the veranda. At 8:00 we walked back to the restaurant for a WOR dinner on the veranda. It was apleasant evening as I had red wine, salad (lettuce, walnuts and cheese), steak, French fries and vanilla and pistachio ice cream with whipped cream. The steak was very tender and was probably lamb (d’agneau).

July 2 Saturday Bike St Geniez d'Olt to Florac

Got up at 7:14 and packed up in 56°. Had Alpen, fruit salad and a croissant for breakfast at 8:00. Took down my tent and left my gear by the van.

At 9:23 I biked from camp up a long climb that was steep in places. Biked into Massegros at 10:20 for a banana, .5 liter of milk and an apple for 2.60 €. The Tour de France will be passing through this town in about 10 days. Talked to Cindy and Richard who also stopped in town. It was a very steep switchbacked descent into Gorge du Tarn with spectacular sights. I biked up the gorge along the river passing through 11 tunnels. Near one tunnel I heard voices and walked up a short trail to

see two men and a woman rock climbing. I think one man high up the rock face on ropes was a student. My new digital camera started acting up so I missed a picture. Stopped at a small isolated hotel between tunnels for lunch at 12:30. I had a Perrier 2.40 €, potato and bacon omelet with green salad 5.80 €, a liter of carbonated (gaseous) water 2.60 € and vanilla ice cream 2.60 €. Biked into camp at 3:30 and no one was there. Continued on into Florac for .5 liter of milk and Bing cherries for 1.67 €. Circled town and found a bar with a TV in a small hotel where I watched the Tour de France. I drank 3 Gold drafts (pressions) at 2.10 € each. Biked back to Camping Pont du Tarn located at 44° 20.131 N by 3° 35.367 E at 6:15. I biked 63.23 miles (102 km) in 5:01:23 averaging 12.6 mph (20 kmph) reaching a maximum 34.0 mph (55 kmph) climbing 4020’ (1225 m) while descending 3510’ (1070 m) in 4 climbs.

Went to tea, set up my tent, showered and washed clothes. At 8:10 Matt, Chuck and I walked into Florac and Le Source du Pecher restaurant on a trout stream. We ate outside by the stream with many large trout swimming beside us. I ate salad, lamb, potatoes, tomatoes, cake and wine for 36.00 € ($44.28). It was a bit pricey but the lamb was outstanding and the setting superb.

July 3 Sunday Bike Florac to Anduze

Got up at 7:15 in 58° and packed up. Had Alpen, fruit salad and two croissants for breakfast at 8:00. Took down my tent and left my gear by the van.

Biked from camp into nearby Florac for an ATM where I withdrew 100.00 € ($122.91) at 9:30. After 5 km I started climbing 500 meters (1640’) over 15 km (9.3 miles) to Col des Faisses 1026 m (3366’). Walked to the overview. Descended to Le Pompidou at 25 km (15.5 miles) into the ride. Stopped for a Perrier 1.80 € with Tony, Clare and Kasey. Continued descending to St Jean du Gard where I stopped for lunch at the Oasis in the park in 89° (32° C) with Roger and Lowell. I had a breschetti with ham, mushrooms, tomato and cheese 5.60 € ($6.89), banana split 6.00 € ($7.38) and two Perriers at 2.00 € ($2.46) each.

We biked southeast all day. Biked into Camp Castel Rose located at 44° 3.924 N by 3° 58.446 E at 3:48 in 94° (34° C). I biked 42.64 miles (69 km) in 3:23:53 hours averaging 12.5 mph (20 kmph) reaching a maximum 35.5 mph (57 kmph) climbing 2850’ (869 m) while descending 4040’ (1231 m) in 4 climbs.

Set up my tent and clothes line. Went swimming in the river in my biking clothes to wash them and hung the clothes on the line to dry. At 4:30 I watched the Tour de France finish as I drank two .5 liter Amstel drafts at 4.80 € ($5.90) each. At 7:15 I had red wine (rouge vin), green salad, steak, French fries and vanilla ice cream for 12.00 € ($14.76) and a Perrier 2.00 € ($2.46). Showered and went to bed.

July 4 Monday Bike Anduze to Avignon

Got up at 7:15 and packed up. Took down tent and left my gear by the van. Had Alpen, fruit salad, bread and milk for breakfast at 8:00.

Biked from camp at 8:30 into Anduze. Stopped in a tobacco shop and bought a calling card 5.00 € ($6.15). Today we are going almost due east. Biked into Arpaillurgues at 35.5 km and found a patissiere to buy a liter of milk .70 € and an apple tarte 1.30 €. Encountered some light rain but not bad.

Arrived at the Pont du Gard the famous well preserved Roman aquaduct. Talked briefly to a young couple from New Hampshire doing day rides out of Avignon. Saw Richard, Cindy, Roger and Anne then later Clare, Kasey, Matt and others. Walked out and across the bridge next to the aquaduct. Climbed the hill on the familiar GR4 that I followed hiking through the Gorge Verdon in June. I got some good views of the aquaduct taking several pictures. I walked back to the visitors center and tried unsuccessfully to call Anne. I decided to eat so I bought a cheese sandwich, Pelligrini gaseous water and a yogurt for 8.80 € ($10.82). It started raining so I waited awhile until it stopped.

The weather was fine as I biked along the highway which wasn’t too bad. The closer I got to Avignon the worse the weather got. I missed the roundabout turn to Villeneuve Lez A. It started raining with ever increasing intensity and the traffic picked up dramatically. I didn’t want to cross the bridge into Avignon with all the traffic so I took an exit to Villeneuve. I got out of the traffic and the rain let up. Totally soaked I guessed my way through town and found my way back on the route. I crossed the bridge to the island and pulled into Camping Pont d’Avignon located at 44° 16.820 N by 5° 6.194 E in a light rain at 3:15. I biked 53.31 miles (86 km) in 3:27:21 averaging 14.1 mph (23 kmph) reaching a maximum 32.0 mph 52 kmph) climbing 1670’ (509 m) while descending 2000’ (610 m) in 4 climbs.

I searched the camp but found no one. Tried to call Anne again but couldn’t connect. The calling card doesn’t work. A group of riders came in and I joined them to find the van. Under the pavilion I enjoyed red wine, pistachios, bread, cheese and apricots at tea. Set up my tent. Walked to the bar to watch the Tour de France which Boonan won in a sprint with Cindy, Tony, and Wayne the beer costing 10.00 € ($12.30). Showered and washed clothes. Walked around the fence and took a free ferry to Avignon with Matt, Wayne and Helen. We walked around before settling on Le Jacquemart for dinner with Richard and Cindy. I had water, red wine, Nicoise salad, sea bass, French fries and vanilla ice cream for 20.00 € ($24.60). There was a violent thunderstorm while we ate and some of us sitting near the edge or under a seam in the canopy got wet. The was 1-2” of water running under our feet. We walked back to camp in the dark without anymore rain.

July 5 Tuesday Bike Avignon to Vaison la Romaine

Got up at 6:44 packed up and took down a wet tent and left my gear by the van. Had Alpen, fruit salad, milk, roll and a croissant for breakfast at 8:00.

At 9:00 Andrew in a car led about 8 bikers through Avignon traffic to the highway on the outskirts. Tony took over and led us through Saturen, Pirmes and Capentras to Bidoun at the base of Mount Ventoux. Tony, Wayne, Donna and I arrived together. It is very windy and mostly a head wind. We gathered at a bar and I had a Perrier along with a fruit tarte I got from a patissiere for 1.80 €. Our intent was to have lunch at the bar but they wouldn’t serve lunch until 12:00. That was about a 45 minute wait. Some people grabbed a sandwich or pizza nearby and headed up the mountain. I made a big mistake and waited for lunch. It was too long so I got stiff and ate too much to bike up the big climb. I had another Perrier, green salad, steak and French fries for 15.00 €.

I came on this trip to climb Mount Ventoux, Alpe d’Huez and other famous cols but I had my doubts as to weather I could do it. This was my first test and probably the toughest. I started up Mount Ventoux a 21 km (13 miles) climb rising 1610 m (5282’) at 1:09. It seemed to get steep very quickly with the grade in the 7-8% range and then up to 10% occasionally touching 12%. The average grade is 7.7%. It was made tougher by a strong wind mostly in your face. I am worried about the wind as it will be stronger at the top especially since the summit is bald. I settled into my own little world of grinding it out maintaining a 7-8 mph pace but slowly slipping down to about 5 mph. I got a little grade break on the switchbacks and the trees gave me quite a bit of protection. Nearing the top I could see the end with the tower and buildings. As I cleared the trees the wind became fierce so that I struggled to keep moving when it came from directly in front. I struggled through a few blasts with a cross wind blowing me half way across the road. I rounded a curve and saw Cindy blown off her bike onto some rocks beside the road. I passed Richard and Cindy a few yards a came to a standstill in a headwind that must have been 50 mph. I had to dismount and started walking up to the next to last hairpin curve. I was afraid to mount my bike for fear of being blown off the mountain. I rounded the hairpin and Richard and Wayne passed me. Richard yelled that it wasn’t too bad. He was right as the wind was more or less behind me and had subsided slightly being in the lee side of the very summit. I remounted and rode up around the last hairpin. As I rounded the hairpin I got hit by a 60 mph wind that moved me sideways about 20’ and almost over a high embankment. Richard and Wayne were standing there and we struggled walking the last 50 yards to the top at 3:35. Cindy came up very soon. I had a hot chocolate and blueberry pie for 6.00 € as it was very cold.

I walked my bike down about a quarter of a mile as it wastoo windy to get on my bike. I mounted my bike a rode down very slowly constantly on my brakes as it was dangerous and too windy to maintain control at high speed. I passed Chuck Corum coming up the other side headed for the summit. On the bottom I rode into a strong headwind most of the time but it was nothing compared to Ventoux. I biked into Camp Le Soleil de Provence located at 44° 1.682 N by 5° 6.194 E at 5:45. I biked 66.19 miles (107 km) in 6:24:02 averaging 10.3 mph (17 kmph) reaching a maximum 32.0 mph 52 kmph) climbing 7180’ (2188 m) while descending 6240’ (1902 m) in 2 climbs.

It is still very windy so the canopy has the sides on to protect us from the wind. I am told the wind is common in this area at this time of year and are known as the “Mistrals”. I quickly down 3 bottles of Kronenbourg with cheese, bread and probably half a watermelon. I showered and washed my biking clothes.The wind didn’t seem to want to quit. Suzie is doing her Australian barbecue for supper tonight. I am grateful because we don’t have to go anywhere, the food is plentiful and very good. Thank you Suzie! I had two empty legs as I dug into beef, sausage, cous cous, salad, green salad, apple and pear tartes, red wine, more Kronenbourg, fruit juice and bread at 8:50. I went to bed tired but full and contented. I now knew I could do the biking with a little hard work. Thank you, Lord Jesus.

July 6 Wednesday Bike Vaison la Romaine to Menglon

Got up at 6:50 in 71° and packed up. Had Alpen, fruit salad, milk and a croissant for breakfast at 8:00. Took down my tent and left my gear by the van.

At 9:00 I biked from camp into Nyons to buy another phone card 7.50 € ($9.23) and visited an ATM getting 200.00 € ($241.72). Biked up a valley and gorge passing through 3 tunnels. Stopped at a fruit stand near a tunnel for two peaches .65 € with Helen. My next stop was in Le Pilles for pizza 1.30 € and a Perrier 1.60 €. It was on to La Motte for two more pizzas and a Perrier for 3.20 €. With a climb ahead I didn’t want to make the same mistakes as yesterday by stopping too long and eating too much at a time. Although I had been gradually climbing all morning I started up a 1180’ (350 m) climb out of La Motte to Col de Premus 903 m (2963’). From here it was mostly downhill to Camp L’ Hirondelle located at 44° 40.971 N by 5° 26.864 E at 3:45. I biked 60.77 miles (108 km) in 5:16:02 hours averaging 11.5 mph (19 kmph) reaching a maximum 24.0 mph (39 kmph) climbing 3430’ (1045 m) while descending 2660’ (811 m) in 4 climbs.

It is 79° as I drank two .25 liter draft beers for 4.80 € ($5.90) at the camp restaurant. After a short rain I changed my back tire which had cords showing in many places and discarded it. I put on a Michelin foldup and had great difficulty getting it on with the plastic tire irons which flexed. I had cantalope, bread, cheese, cookies and milk at tea. Took a long walk down a dirt road to shower washing my bike clothes. At 7:45 I had a Perrier and a bag of potato chips 3.30 € ($4.06). At 8:00 we were served dinner family style sitting a long harvest tables. I had red wine, fish cakes and lettuce salad, beef, mushrooms and pasta in a sauce, and an apple tarte with whipped cream.

July 7 Thursday Bike Menglon to Les Egats

Got up at 6:44 in 53°, packed up, took down my tent and left my gear by the van. Had Alpen, fruit salad, milk and a croissant for breakfast at 8:00.

At 9:09 I biked from camp and started the 26 km (16.1 miles) climb rising 900 m (2953’) up the Col de Menee 1402 m (4600’). I was out 9 miles when my rear tire exploded. At first I thought it was a pinch flat but I’m very careful putting tires on and was sure I checked it thoroughly. Then I realized that the tube didn’t blow but about 6” of the tire sidewall blew out. Obviously a tire failure, I must have damaged the sidewall trying to put it on the rim. I tried to take the tire off but couldn’t because my plastic tire tools flexed and wouldn’t hold. Everyone passed me offering help and Donna stopped and tried to phone but had no coverage for her cell phone. I knew the sag would come and it did after about 30-45 minutes. I am totally helpless as Anne and Suzie removed my tire and replaced it with one of Tony’s tires. In my defence, Anne had to get her steel tire tools to get the tire off. I am buying steel tire tools when I get home. I finally topped Col de Menee but couldn’t take a picture as my new digital camera was acting up. Anne took my picture with her camera.

I descended the mountain on a rough switchbacked road to the Hotel Ferrat snack bar at the road junction with N75. I had a ham sandwich 5.00 € and an Orangina 2.50 € with Tony, Clare, Kasey and Chuck. It is chilly and damp at 66o (19o C). I didn’t take long to get started again and soon was climbing 10 km (6.2 miles) rising 300 m (984’) to Col de Accarias 892 m (2926’). My work was not done as I climbed 250 m (820’) over 2.5 km (1.6 miles) and then 275 m (902’) over 5 km (3.1 miles). I must be in the Alps. Biked into Camp Belvedere de l’Obiou located at 44° 52.531 N by 5° 50.276 E at 3:09. I biked 47.3 miles (76 km) in 4:28:00 averaging 10.5 mph (17 kmph) reaching a maximum 31.0 mph (50 kmph) climbing 5270’ (1606 m) while descending 4190’ (1277 m) in 4 climbs.

I drank .5 liter of milk for 1.80 €. I switched to beer drinking two .25 liter bottles of Kronenbourg at 1.90 € each and bought one for Suzie as we watched the Tour de France. I owe Anne a few beers for working on my tire. I hsd cookies, milk, olives, pickles and pistachios at tea. Showered washing my bike clothes. We had a WOR dinner servedfamily style at 8:00. I had orange juice, crackers, cheesos, red wine, green liquor and champagne, salad, (pasta, cous cous, lettuce, barley and deviled eggs), scalloped potatoes and ham (tartiflette), blueberry pie and custard pudding.

July 8 Friday Bike Les Egats to Alpe d'Huez

Got up at 6:56 in 58° and packed up. A green grasshopper has been in my tent for 3 days and survived being packed up. Clare and Kasey decided we had to wear an animal on our helmuts while climbing Alpe d’Huez so I taped the grasshopper to my helmut. Took down a wet tent and left my gear by the van. Had Alpen, fruit salad, milk and a croissant for breakfast at 8:00.

Biked from camp about 9:00 heading north and a little east. After 7 km of mostly down hill I began to climb 23 km (14.3 miles) rising 671 m (2201’) to Col de Ornan 1371 m (4498’) passing through Valbonnais and Chantelouve. I stopped at a bar for a Perrier 2.00 €. We waited until everyone arrived and was refreshed. The owner’s wife was selling stuffed animals so I bought a marmot for my helmut on the ride up Alpe d’Huez. We took some group pictures before descending 651 m (2136’) in 10 km (6.2 miles) to Bourg d’Oisans at 720 m (2362’).

Everyone scattered in the town before regrouping for lunch at a sidewalk cafe. I had a Nicoise salad 7.50 € and a .5 liter Pelligrini water with gas 2.00 €. I removed the grasshopper from my helmut and he happily hopped away minus a leg or two. I think I scared him on the thrilling ride down from Col de Ornan. I taped the proud marmot onn my helmut for the ride up to Alpe d’Huez. Everyone stopped in the bike store and I bought an Alpe d’Huez biking shirt 45 € ($55.35) and a foldup Vittoria tire 14.00 € ($17.22).

I crossed the white stripe painted on the road at 720 m (2362’) at 2:22 starting my 11 km (6,8 miles) climb rising 1219 m (3999’) to Alpe d’Huez 1839 m (6033’) for an average grade of 9%. It is later than I had hoped to do the climb and therefore hotter. The road rose quickly as I started through the 21 hairpins to the top. I found my rhythm and was in my own little world among the hundreds of cyclists climbing with me. I occasionally snuck a peek back down into the valley at the incredible scenery as I sweated profusely. Nearing the top I was startled by a photographer in the middle of the road tsking my picture. He ran at me handing me a card which I tucked in my shirt back pocket. I was a little surprised when I entered town and crossed the white line at 3:47 a few yards behind Donna. The climb was much easier than Mount Ventoux with no wind, a shorter distance, less elevation gain and a time of 1:25 hours. I biked 35.17 miles (57 km) in 3:57:38 hours averaging 8.8 mph (14 kmph) reaching a maximum 33.0 mph (53 kmph) climbing 5980’ (1823 m) while descending 2990’ (911 m) in 3 climbs.

We gathered at the Etoiles des Neiges bar to wait for everyone to arrive and to celebrate. We watched the Tour de France on TV with McEwan winning the stage and I drank two .25 liter Stella Artois drafts for 2.00 € each. We were saddened to learn that Anne crashed descending Alpe d’ Huez and was hospitalized but knew no details. We sadly walked her twisted and bloody bike a few blocks up the mountain to our hotel Le Castellane. I checked into room 20 with Matt my roommate. The views from our room are incredible. We spread our tents on the balcony to dry and showered. I walked to the Casino for .5 liter of milk and a banana for 1.30 €. A subdued group gathered in the hotel bar for champagne and drinks. At 8:15 we entered the hotel restaurant for dinner. I had a buffet salads, bread, turkey, pasta and an apple tarte. We had awards after dinner with Roger and Clare doing the presentation minus Kasey who is spending the night in the hospital with Anne. Everyone received an award and I am the proud recipient of the “Quiet Acheiver Award” (I believe for drinking wine).