Bike Germany

Having finished 10 days of great hiking in the Alps of the Swiss Bernese Oberland, Barry Nelson and I took a train from Zurich to Frankfurt, Germany to join 22 bikers and two drivers from the Baltimore Bicycle Club to bike for 12 days around Germany.

Thirteen men and nine women, four each from the racing team, cycled over 800 miles in a big loop around southern Germany. We had great weather as we cycled down the Rhine, through the mountains of the black forest, across Lake Constance and back via the famed Romantic Route with it's numerous small walled medieval cities. During a day off we toured Munich and went to Octoberfest.

The group was very congenial with mostly strong riders so we had very few problems. There were bike paths paralleling the road in many places and we had very little traffic with which to contend. The German drivers were courteous and the people were friendly and helpful. Europeans love cyclists. The food was delightful and I stuck to all German food making up for the scarcity of good German food in the United States.

The cycling was tough at times with two days around the 100 mile mark and others in the 70-90 mile range. One day we climbed over 6400' which is a lot of climbing for one day. On a 100 mile day into Heidelberg the last half was hilly and tough for tired legs.

In summary it was a great ride with good scenery, food, hotels, weather and great friends. Thank you Gary Kelly for another great ride.

September 19, 2003 Friday Train to Frankfurt

Got up at 5:52 and packed up. At 6:35 went to breakfast of orange juice, milk, two brotchen, cheese, ham, butter and jam. Walked 3 blocks to the Hauptbahnhof to track 12. Took the Inter City Express train ICE-76 at 8:02 from Zurich to Basel. Changed to ICE-600 which stopped in Freiburg, Baden-Baden, Karlsruhe, Mannheim and Frankfurt Flughafen arriving about 12:14. The train was really crowded from Mannheim. The train cost $86 2nd Class for the 4:00 hour 295 mile trip.

Information called our hotel shuttle and we arrived at the hotel about 1:00. It is very warm and the bike group got out ahead of hurricane Isabella. We are relieved.

Walked a couple of blocks down Sindlingen Strasse to the Zum Taunus hotel for lunch of .4 liter Henninger E2.40 ($2.64) and fish, potato salad, lettuce and strawberry ice cream with a pear and whipped cream. Stopped at the HL Market for brotchen E.15 ($.17), cheese E1.06 ($1.17), banana E.26 ($.29) and cookies E1.59 ($1.75).

Checked into the Top Hotel Post Frankfurt Airport room 411; Sindlinger Bahnstrasse 12-16; Frankfurt, Germany; US - 011 49 69 37010; Germany 069 37010; info@airporthotel-post.de. Ran into several from the bike group. Unboxed my bike and assembled it. Emptied my backpack and put it in the bike box before storing it with the other bike boxes in the hotel garage. Combined all my hiking and biking clothes and gear into a bullet bag. Test rode my bike checking all gears and brakes.

Walked to the Opatija restaurant on the river for cream asparagus soup E2.30 ($2.53), Bosnian pork chop stuffed with goat cheese, potato E8.60 ($9.46), .2 liter glass of water E1.30 ($1.43) and .3 liter Pfungstadter E1.80 ($1.98) plus E1.00 tip.

September 20, 2003 Saturday Bike Frankfurt to Heidelberg

Got up at 6:32 and packed up. 7:00 breakfast of milk, brotchen, ham and cheese.

Biked from the hotel with Barry at 8:12 and crossed the river following bike path R3. We came out on the Mainz River heading east through Frankfurt on the south bank. There were massive street markets in Frankfurt and Offenbach. We exited the bike path at Mulheim and headed south through a large forest to Dieburg where we joined the designated route following highway 38. We are having a difficult time navigating requiring frequent stops and often having to backtrack.

We passed Bob Benhoff and Kathy Brugh and more or less biked with them to Wald-Michelbach. Stopped in Gross-Bierberau for lunch of cheese, brotchen and an apple. We got off highway 38 at Reichelsheim and I got badly dehydrated. We stopped in Ertzheim for a bottle of water and a small bag of potato chips. I felt better for a while but still had no energy. We climbed our second large hill coming out of Wald Michelbach and then it was basically downhill all the way to the Neckar River and Neckarstinnach. Bob and Kathy went the other way and got into some serious hills.

We crossed the Neckar River and rode along it into Heidelberg and our hotel next to the railroad station at 6:40. We biked 98.74 miles in 8:17:58 averaging 11.9 mph, reaching a maximum 31.0 mph, climbing 2490', descending 2380' with two major climbs.

Dick Neuman helped us stow our bikes in the train station, get our luggage and check-in. Barry and I checked into room 122 of the Hotel Ibis; Willy-Brandt-Platz 3; Heidelberg, Germany; US - 011 49 6221 9130; Germany - 062 21 9130; H1447@accor-hotels.com or h1447-gl@accor-hotels.com. I showered washing my biking clothes and hung them to dry. I would do this every biking day for the remainder of the trip. We walked to the Restaurant mit Pfiff for .5 liter (16.9 oz) Heidelberg, sauerbraten, spatzles and a sandwich for tomorrow E16.80 ($18.48) plus E2.00 ($2.20) tip.

September 21, 2003 Sunday Bike Heidelberg to Pirmasens

Got up at 6:30 and packed up. Went down to breakfast at 7:00 and had two cups of hot chocolate, two orange juices, brotchen with ham, cheese, cream cheese, jam, tomato and cucumber. Walked to Restaurant mit Pfiff and bought a ham and cheese sandwich and two bags of potato chips for E4.80 ($5.28). No more bonking!

Biked west out of Heidelberg at 8:10. We headed for Eppelheim, then Schwetzingen but got headed in the wrong direction. We met Gary Kelly, Tim Munn and John Grice before backtracking ½ mile heading through Ketech along the Rhein River before crossing it into Speyer (as in church speier).

Dick Neuman joined Barry and I as we rode into Iggelheim where we stopped at a bakery and I bought .5 liter milk E.80 ($.88). Ate some cheese and a bag of chips with my milk. Passed through Neustadt and Lambecht to Elmstein where Barry and I stopped to eat. We climbed a long gradual hill past Jahminkrauz and then a long downhill. We stopped in Leitham for water then continued down to turn left and climb 6 km up to Pirmasens. We didn't know that our hotel was not in Pirmasens but in Winzelm. After some confusion we left town taking a detour arriving at the hotel at 4:51. We biked 80.53 miles in 6:29:30 averaging 12.4 mph, reaching a maximum 29.0 mph.

We checked into room 102 at the four star Hotel Restaurant Kunz at 49^o 11.165 N by 7^o 33.920 E; Bottenbacher Strasse 74; Winzelm near Pirmasens, Germany; US - 011 49 63 31 875 0; Germany - 063 31 875 0; info@hotel-kunz.de. Barry and I had a .5 liter (16.9 oz) Park E3.00 ($6.60) then cleaned up. It is 82^o with the barometer at 28.80". We had a gourmet dinner of .3 liter beer, water, pate ' appetizer, salad buffet, pike and crayfish in sauce, baked potatoes E25.10 ($27.61) including my afternoon beer plus E2.00 ($2.20) tip.

September 22, 2003 Monday Bike Pirmasens to Strasbourg

Got up at 6:30 and packed up. 7:00 breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, brotchen, tea, orange juice, butter and fruit salad.

Biked from the hotel at 8:04 heading downhill to Bottenbach. Made a wrong turn and had to climb back costing us a total of 2.5 miles. Went through Vennigen to join the designated route in Eppenbrunn. We biked through a nice forest and turned right into Ludwigswinkle. We met Debbie and Julie returning from the way we thought we should go. We turned back and got lost in the woods ending up on a dirt trail passing about 25 German Volksmarchers. We found a paved road and followed it to Petersbachel to Gebug to Schonau.

Barry and I stopped for an apple, .5 liters milk and Gouda cheese for E1.90 ($2.09). I drank the milk and ate a bag of potato chips for the salt. We gave up on rejoining the designated route. We turned on D27 passing into France through Lembach where we saw the Maginot Line. We biked into Haguenau and stopped to eat the apple, cheese and chocolate chip cookies. Followed the N63 out of town and picked up the D263 through Brumath and Vendenheim where we picked up the N63 again. Cut over to D31 at Mittehausberger where we ran into Debbie and Julie again.

We biked into Strasbourg together and struggled to find our hotel at 4:10. We biked 73.73 miles in 6:07:05 hours averaging 12.0 mph, reaching a maximum 35.5 mph, climbing 2230' and descending 2850' in four climbs.

We checked into room 219 in the Hotel Restaurant Pax at 48^o 34.941 N by 7^o 44.254 E

at 1010' elevation; 24 Rue Du Faubourg National; Strasbourg, France; US - 011 33 3 88 32 14 54; France - 03 88 32 14 54; info@paxhotel.com. We put our bikes in a garage across the street in locked bin 302. We drank a .5 liter Meteor at the hotel.

At 6:40 we walked ½ block to the Z'otseau de France restaurant for supper of .5 liter Meteor E4.00 ($4.40), steak Roquefort, peas, carrots, Brussel sprouts, French fries E12.00 ($13.20), salad E2.30 ($2.53), water E2.50 ($2.75) and ice cream E4.50 ($4.95) plus E2.50 ($2.75) tip. Talked to Ada Haunschild and Rick Wright, our van drivers and BBC members from Brussels. Ada is working at NATO and Rick is retired. Also talked to the Frains, Joe Dumin and Anne Stratmann.

September 23, 2003 Tuesday Bike Strasbourg to Freiburg

Got up at 6:24 and packed up. 7:00 breakfast of orange juice, tea, brotchen, cheese and ham. Went to the Co Op and bought an apple, banana and a big bag of potato chips for E1.60 ($1.76).

Biked from the hotel at 8:10 in a light rain. Biked across the Petite de France, a very old stone bridge built like a building with sculptures in each room on both sides all the way across. Very interesting museum. We biked along the canals and met the Frains, Joe Dumin, Bob Moore, John Lefko, Barbara Szysh and Kathy Brugh. We rode through Strasbourg and crossed the Rhein into Kehl, Germany. We tried to follow the bike path along the Rhein but we had so many problems that Barry, Kathy and I got off at Marlen and followed 36 south to Lahr. Traffic was moderate except around Lahr. We turned right on 3 continuing south to Kippenheim. We stopped in a bakery for liter of milk and a jelly filled donut for E1.40 ($1.54). We continued south to Teningen where we zig zagged our way into Freiburg. We biked through a shower and were caught by Gary Kelley, John Grice and Tim Munn in town. Six of us rode to the hotel together arriving at 2:15. We biked 54.63 miles in 4:22:30 averaging 12.4 mph reaching a maximum 23.0 mph climbing 890' and descending 710'.

Barry and I checked into room 219 in the Stadthotel Kolping at 47^o 59.748 N by 7^o 51.287 E; Karlstrasse 7; Freiburg, Germany; US - 011 49 761 3193 0; Germany - 0761 3193 0; info@stadthotel-kolping.de . We secured our bikes in the back under cover and unloaded everyone's luggage from the van. Drank two .4 liter Staatsbrauerei Rathaus for E2.60 ($2.86) each.

Barry and I walked around town taking pictures. Freiburg is neat little city that is very

old and still has some tower gates from the old city wall. 6:30 supper of mushroom soup, chicken , rice, vegetable medley and ice cream with pears and whipped cream all included in our hotel cost. Everything was great. I drank a .5 liter Dunkel but Dick Neuman picked up the drink tab for our entire group.

September 24, 2003 Wednesday Bike Freiburg to Schaffhausen

It got cold during the night down to 42^o in beautiful Freiburg. Got up at 6:30 and packed up. Put my bag in the van at 7:00 and ate breakfast of fruit juice, tomato juice, milk, scrambled eggs, sausage, brotchen, butter, cheese, tomato and fruit salad.

Kathy, Barry and I biked from the hotel at 8:22 heading straight south into a cold wind. I ran through some hot tar some street menders were applying under a city gate tower that stung my legs and coated a section of my front tire. We started up immediately upon leaving town towards Schaunland at the top of the ski lift. Kathy passed me and set the pace for about 8 kilometers when I had a flat on my rear wheel. We sent Kathy on to stay warm and not lose her rhythm.

After fixing the flat we climbed to the top of the 16 km (9.9 miles) mountain with a 7-12% grade. Gary, Tim and John came up behind us. Kathy was waiting for us and was very cold. I was concerned about hypothermia. I put my jacket on before we descended quickly for 10 kilometers. We got even colder. At the bottom we turned left on 315 before Todtnau and started climbing to Brandenburg where we stopped in a bus stop shed out of the wind to eat two apples and potato chips.

I removed my jacket before we started up again and soon reached the headwall at the end of the valley. We climbed steeply probably 10-12% slope around many switchbacks for about 2 miles into Feldberg the Alpine training center for the Black Forest region. We descended slowly to the Schluchsee where we snacked. We climbed gently out of town for quite a while then picked up speed across the flat and down into Bonndorf. We stopped in Schmidt's Market for small pizza, milk and cookies.

It was almost all downhill on 315 to Stuhlingen where we crossed the border (guards) into Switzerland . We rolled over gentle rises and descents into Schaffhausen. We met up with the Frains, Joe, John and Barbara then rode to the hotel at 4:15. We biked 67.0 miles in 5:44:24 averaging 11.6 mph reaching a maximum 35.0 mph climbing 6410' descending 6000' in four major climbs.

We checked into room 306 in the Hotel Kronenhof at 47^o 41.726 N by 8^o 37.982 E; Kirchhofplatz 7; Schaffhausen, Switzerland; US - 011 41 52 635 75 75; Swiss - 052 635 75 75; info@kronenhof.ch . Barry and I had a .5 liter Falken Schwartz bier for SFr5.40 ($3.94) each. Ate dinner of melon and ham appetizer, Riesling cream soup (fantastic), perch, spinach, potatoes, .5 liter Falken Schwartz bier, water and ice cream with whipped cream, wafer and chocolate sauce for SFr70.00 ($51.10) in the hotel. We had a great view out the window of the colorful fireworks for a childrens holiday once a year.

September 25, 2003 Thursday Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Got up at 7:15 and went to breakfast of orange juice, milk, tea and three rolls with butter and jelly. Patched my bicycle tube and balanced Barry and my expenditures.

Walked to the information center and then about 3 km along the Rhein to the 23 m (75') Rheinfalls the highest in Europe. It is pretty spectacular. Ate lunch of bratwurst, onions and .3 liter lager for SFr22.30 at the Park am Rheinfall restaurant below the falls.

Walked back to town and the Co Op where I bought a banana, peach and 100 g Cailler's chocolate almond bar for SFr3.05 ($2.23). We walked up to the neat fort above town with Barry and Bob Moore. We toured the fortifications which were round and impressive. Ate a Magna almond ice cream bar for SFr3.00 ($2.19).

Sat outside the hotel and drank a .5 liter

Falken Schwartz bier SFr5.50 ($4.02) with Barry, Frains, Kathy, Bob Benhoff and Bob Moore. Walked up the street with Gary Kelley for a bratwurst and brotchen for SFr4.00 ($2.92). Gary loaned me some lanolin for my raw bottom caused by riding with my seat too high for several days.

6:30 supper of watermelon soup, salad, carrots, broccoli, green beans, bratwurst, beef steak, veal cutlet, spatzles, mushroom gravy, red wine and water for SFr49.50 ($36.14) plus SFr3.50 ($2.56). I ate with Julie, Debbie, Kathy, Barry, Benhoff, Moore and John Lefko.

September 26, 2003 Friday Bike Schaffhausen to Friedrichshafen

Got up at 6:30 and packed up. 7:00 took my bag down and loaded it on the van. Breakfast of orange juice, tea, milk, fruit salad and two brotchen with butter and jam. Biked to the Co Op for a nectarine, banana, cheese and brotchen for SFr6.55 ($4.78).

Biked from the hotel at 6:19 with Barry and Kathy and headed east on the north side of the misty Rhein in about 40^o. Caught Debbie, Julie, Janet and Susan at the German border. We turned right dropping down to the Rhein. We crossed back into Biessenhoffen, Switzerland on an old enclosed single lane bridge. A real post card scene. I hit some gravel from a farm yard just outside of town and pinch flatted

(snake eyes) my rear tire. Underway again we missed a suttle left turn just short of Unter Stammheim and I ignored the signs telling me we were wrong. We ended up going to Frauenfeld and back through Weiningen to rejoin the route at Herden a costly time consuming mistake.

We stopped in Mulheim at a bus stop to eat some chips, cheese, brotchen, nectarine and chocolate almond bar. We biked into Konstantz and finally found the ferry just in time for departure at 1:30. The ferry cost E3.80 ($4.18) each for us and E2.80 ($3.08) per bike to Meersburg about 20 minutes away.

We saw Mike Harris, Susanne Morsberger and Mark McMillan and had a glass of new wine which Kathy treated. We biked into Friederichshafen mostly along the shore of Lake Constance (Bodensee) on bike paths arriving at our hotel at 3:19. We biked 55.7 miles in 4:12:16 averaging 13.2 mph reaching a maximum 34.0 mph climbing 2360' and descending 2230' in 4 major climbs.

We checked into room 203 in the Seehotel at 47^o 39.191 N by 9^o 28.154 E; Bahnhofsplatz 2; Friedrichshafen, Germany; US - 011 49 7541 303 0; Germany - 07541 303 0; seehotel@t-online.de . Locked our bikes in slot 14 in the garage under the hotel. Barry and I had a .5 liter Jevej dark beer for E2.90 ($3.19).

Walked to old town and saw Benhoff with Joe and Ann in a cafe. Bob joined us and we walked to the Tiffany Steakhouse for .3 liter beer, water, mixed salad, veal strips in cream sauce with onions and mushrooms, croquets (potatoes) and ice cream medley for E26.50 ($29.15) plus E3.00 ($3.30) tip. We joked with our Italian waitress who spoke English very well. She even served me ice water in a big glass and didn't charge me for it.

September 27, 2003 Saturday Bike Friedrichshafen to Fussen

Got up at 6:05 and packed up. Put my bag in the van and went to breakfast of orange juice, tea, scrambled eggs, sausage and potato at 7:05.

Biked from the hotel at 7:43 heading north on 30 in 42^o. Turned right towards Tettnang. Tettnang has special significance since I have used Tettnang hops many times making beer. Barry and I could see where the hops had been harvested for miles on each side of Tettnang. We kept going east through Wangen where we stopped at a bakery for a plum tart and .5 liter milk. for E2.14 ($2.35). We biked through Isny where we saw Gary, Debbie and Julie at a store. We had some climbs but they were not very steep or too long. We headed south and east turning right off of 12 near Weitraux. We had a good climb before descending into Immenstadt at 12:05.

Stopped and bought a 175 g bag of potato chips and .5 liter milk for E2.05 ($2.26). Stopped in a park and ate chips, ham and cheese sandwich, peach, two chocolate chip cookies and the milk. Biked out of Immenstadt at 12:55 with 45 km to go to Fussen on a gradual slope to Rettenberg then steeply over a pass and down into Wertach. We got on B210 following signs to Fussen and could see the spectacular high Alps around Fussen. We passed through Nesselwang and Pfrontie into Fussen on 310 arriving at our hotel under the castle at 3:00. Today's route was really pretty and probably the easiest to follow. We biked 75.5 miles in 5:42:23 averaging 13.2 mph reaching a maximum 35.0 mph climbing 4330' descending 3010' in 4 major climbs.

We checked into room 7 in the Altstadt Hotel "zum Hechten" at 47^o 34.135 N by 10^o 41.643 E; Ritterstrasse 6; Fussen, Germany; US - 011 49 8362 9160 0; Germany - 08362 9160 0; hotel.hechten@t-online.de. Walked our bikes through a passageway to a courtyard in back of the hotel and stowed them.

Walked to a restaurant and up to the second floor because the sidewalk cafes were full for a .5 liter Lowenbrau for E2.50 ($2.75) each. 6:30 supper of .5 liter pilsner draft, .25 liter water, salad, venison goulash, very large dumpling and a strawberry tart for E14.90 ($16.39) plus E2.00 ($2.20) tip at the hotel with the Frains and Bob Benhoff. Mike Harris, our third roommate came in at 10:00, closed the window and turned on his white sound machine of running water. It really confused me until I figured out what it was on my way to the bathroom at 2:00 am.

September 28, 2003 Sunday Bike Fussen to Augsburg

Got up at 6:10 and packed up. 7:00 breakfast of two brotchen with butter and jam, tea, orange juice, and brotchen with ham and cheese with Barry, Kathy, Barbara and John.

Biked from the hotel at 8:04 in 50^o and headed northeast on 17 past the famous Neuschwanstein Castle (like in Disney World) very visible from the highway. Turned left on country roads through Lechbruck and Bernbeuren. Crossed highway 472 passing through Bidingen to Aufkirch where we stopped to eat some cheese, an apple, and potato chips. We were playing tag with Dick Neuman all day as we passed each other frequently. We saw Julie, Janet and Susan. We continued on through Waal crossing E54 before stopping for lunch of ham and cheese sandwich, chips and chocolate chip cookies in Igling with Dick Neuman.

We continued on through Untermeitingen and Konigsbrunn into Augsburg. We stopped in a McDonalds for a cherry sundae at E.99 ($1.09). We arrived at our hotel next to the Hauptbahnhof at 2:30. We biked 74.7 miles in 5:03:27 averaging 14.7 mph climbing 1300' descending 2230' in two climbs.

Stowed our bikes in a garage under the street. Our room was not ready so we walked to Cafe Ihle for a .33 liter bottle of Warsteiner E1.85 ($2.04) and a .33 liter Riegele E1.85 ($2.04). I ate a raspberry tart as we left for E1.75 ($1.93). Checked into room 132 in the Inter City Hotel at 48^o 21.955 N by 10^o 53.127 E; Halderstrasse 29; Augsburg, Germany; US - 011 49 821 50 39 0; Germany - 0821 50 39 0; augsburg@intercityhotel.de.

I walked to the train station and got a schedule for tomorrow to Leipheim where I was stationed in 1958-9. Caught a #2 trolley for three stops to Rathausplatz and walked to Konig von Flandern with Barry, Lew and Kathleen Frain, Bob Moore and Bob Benhoff. The restaurant is big, downstairs and typically German. We had two 3 liter growlers of schwartz bier, potato soup, bratwurst, kraut and potato salad for E18.30 ($20.13) plus E1.70 ($1.87) tip. We got back to the hotel at 8:30 and it started raining lightly.

September 29, 2003 Monday Augsburg

Got up at 6:00 and went to breakfast of two brotchen with butter and strawberry jam, tomato juice, orange juice and milk with Debbie, Julie and Bob Benhoff.

Caught the 7:29 train E18.00 ($19.80) from Augsburg to Leipheim at 8:25. Walked about a mile through town to Fliegerhorst Kaserne where I was stationed from January 1958 through July 1959. It is an all German air defense center now and totally different. I almost left but decided to buzz the guard and after a pause they let me in. The guard called his officer and after checking my passport escorted me around the base. It is changed and I didn't recognize anything until we came to the rail spur where we used to load our tanks on flatcars. The old motor pool and tank shops are gone and the airfield beyond has changed but still recognizable. Walking back I recognized my barracks and we went in to see my room. Then I recognized the ball field, PX, movie house, club, etc. Our mess hall is gone. I was excited and touched to see things for the first time in over 44 years. Coming back I transferred trains in Gunzburg where I hung out during my time in Leipheim.

Got back to Augsburg about 11:30 and had a wurst with mustard and brotchen E1.99 ($2.19) then a sweet crescent roll with powdered sugar and filled with vanilla pudding E1.10 ($1.21) in the station.

Got together with Barry, Bob Benhoff, Bob Moore, Frains, Joe and Ann and took the 12:06 train E18.00 ($19.80) from Augsburg Hbf to Munich Hbf at 12:50. Walked to the Rathouse to watch the Glockenspiel at 2:00 but it doesn't go off until 5:00. A Chinese businessman in a suit from Beijing (he said Peking) had our picture taken with him. Walked to the Hofbrauhaus for a liter of HB beer E6.50 ($7.15) and a huge pretzel E2.70 ($2.97).

Took the subway to Octoberfest and stopped in the Pulaner pavilion filled with 3-5000 people and a large oompah band. I had a liter of beer E6.75 ($7.43), potato salad, wurst and sour kraut E11.50 ($12.65). People were starting to stand on the

tables swaying and singing "ein prosen, ein prosen, ....". There are 14-18 pavilions similar to the Pulaner pavilion at Octoberfest. They have numerous rides and other entertainment. The place is totally different from what I remember. The place was packed and as we left thousands were streaming in from the subway. Caught the 7:06 train from Munich to Augsburg arriving at our hotel at 8:00.

September 30, 2003 Tuesday Bike Augsburg to Nordlingen

Got up at 6:30 and packed up. At 6:50 went to breakfast of orange juice, milk, scrambled eggs, sausage and brotchen with butter. Walked to the bahnhof to buy an apple E.65 ($.72) and crescent roll filled with vanilla pudding E1.10 ($1.21).

Biked from the hotel in a breezy 41^o at 8:12 heading northwest following the route out of Augsburg the hotel clerk marked on a map. We got out of the city very quickly then took a wrong turn towards Gersthafen costing us about 5 miles. Back on the route we biked into Wertingen and stopped at a bakery. Bought a fruit cheese cake pastry for E1.75 ($1.93) which was very good. Kathy rode in so we waited while she had pastry and coffee.

Biking out of town we couldn't find the highway so we backtracked through town back to the highway the way we came into town. Back on route we headed north through Hochstadt following signs to Nordlingen. Met Bob Benhoff outside of town and rode into Nordlingen with him at 1:30. We biked 56.5 miles in 4:11:53 averaging 13.4 mph reaching a maximum 33.5 mph climbing 2070' descending 2220' in four climbs.

We checked into room 14 of the Hotel Altreuter at 48^o 51.040 by 10^o 28.290 E; Marktplatz 11; Nordlingen, Germany; US - 011 49 9081 4319; Germany - 09081 4319; hotel-cafe-altreuter@nordschwaben.de. Walked our bikes several blocks through narrow cobbled streets and locked them in a garage. The cathedral tower that dominates the town is directly across the street from our room window a distance of 20-30'. Ate an apple, cheese and some chips then cleaned up.

Barry and I climbed the cathedral tower E1.75 ($1.93) which is very old, high and interesting for some great views of the city and countryside. Walked the fortified city wall about 3 miles.

Stopped at a cafe in a city gate tower over the street for .5 liter Getanke Konig E2.00 ($2.20) and then a banana split E3.20 ($3.52). Ann Stratmann came by and finished the walk with us. Bought a pear and two bananas for E2.00 ($2.20). Nordlingen is a beautiful old walled town that is not commercialized or touristy.

Our hotel recommended it so we walked to Gasthaus zum Stuck for dinner of .33 liter Nordlingen bier, .5 liter water, cream escargot soup, salad, steak with onions, home fries and ice cream with whipped cream for E24.30 ($26.73) plus E2.70 ($2.97) tip with Bob Moore and Barry.

October 1, 2003 Wednesday Bike Nordlingen to Rothenburg

Got up at 6:32 and packed up. 7:00 breakfast of tea, orange juice, brotchen with ham and cheese, brotchen with butter and raspberry jam and a hard boiled egg. Walked to the garage and retrieved my bike. My front tire was low so I pumped up the tires.

Biked from the hotel at 8:20 with Barry and Joe Dumin. After a couple of minor miscues we headed north on 25 in 41^o. I had to put my jacket on because the wind was cold. Biked 30 km (18.6 miles) Dinkelsbuhl another small walled city on the Romantic Route. Stopped at a bakery for a sweet roll and milk E2.10 ($2.31). Virtually the entire crew showed up.

Followed Susan and Kathy through town on very rough cobbled streets then had to circle the town to get back on the route. Sue took off with Kathy drafting her and passed us. Joe closed up to draft as well, then Barry and me. We kept up a good pace being pulled by Sue for over 30 miles past Feuchtwangen, Schillingsfurst and into Rothenburg at 12:05. I had an easy time drafting the entire distance and owe Sue a beer. We traveled all over Rothenburg asking people where our hotel is located. We finally arrived at 12:47 outside the city wall. We biked 52.7 miles in 3:27:45 averaging 15.2 mph reaching a maximum 39.0 mph climbing 1770' descending 1770' in one climb.

We stowed our bikes in the garage across the courtyard in back and checked into room 18 of the Hotel-Gasthof Klingentor at 49^o 22.882 N by 10^o 10.574 E; Mergenheimer Strasse 14; Rothenburg o. d. Tauber, Germany; US - 011 49 9081 4319; Germany - 09861 3468; hotel-klingentor@t-online.de.

After cleaning up Barry and I walked into town for lunch of wurst, kraut, brotchen, and bier for E6.35 ($6.99) at a small shop and talked to John Grice. Went to an ATM (Geld Automat) for E100.00 ($110.00). Ate a peach for E.53 ($.58) and a small vanilla ice cream for E1.00 ($1.10). The glockenspiel went off at 3:00. One man is drinking wine because a Catholic general agreed not to burn and raze Protestant Rothenburg if someone could drink 3.5 liters (118 ounces) of wine without stopping which the mayor did to save the town. This event occurred on the town square where the clock is located and is celebrated annually on its anniversary.

The tourist information office recommended four restaurants which we walked to check them out for tonight's meal. At 6:10 Barry and I walked across town and outside the wall to Gasthof Rodector for dinner for dinner of two Tucher Dunkels at E2.40 ($2.64) each, potato soup E3.00 ($3.30), salad, wiener schnitzel and fries E13.20 ($14.52). We were back to our hotel about 8:00.

October 2, 2003 Thursday Bike Rothenburg to Heidelberg

Got up at 6:30 and packed up. 7:00 breakfast of tea, apple juice, pineapple, yogurt and brotchen with ham and cheese.

Biked from the hotel at 7:55 with Joe and Barry in 12^oC (39^oF). Followed the road down the hill, across the Tauber River and up a significant climb heading west. We passed through Schrozberg, Mufingen and Dorzbach to Krautheim. We stopped at Schmidt's Market and bought .5 liter strawberry milk, apple, potato chips, pastry, banana, brotchen and Edam cheese for E4.85 ($5.34). Ate a banana, pastry and drank the milk. Several bikers passed us while we were stopped.

Continued on through Schautal and Moekmuhl to Mosbach where we stopped at Lidl's Market for a liter of milk for E.50 ($55) which I split with Barry. Ate the cheese, brotchen and chips with the milk. We got on busy 392 for several miles crossing the Neckar River before exiting at Aglasterhausen. This section is very hilly. We stopped in Wisenbach in 73^o for an orange Fanta E1.14 ($1.26). It was basically downhill to the Neckar River and then along it into Heidelberg just like the first day of biking. Arrived at our hotel at 4:35 with Gary, John Grice, Julie and Debbie. We had seen them about six times during the day. We biked 97.1 miles in 7:06:12 averaging 13.6 mph reaching a maximum 34.5 mph climbing 4020' descending 5030' in 6 climbs.

We checked into room 115 of the Hotel Ibis at 49^o 24.216 N by 8^o 40.653 E; Willy-Brandt-Platz 3; Heidelberg, Germany; US - 011 49 6221 9130; Germany - 062 21 9130; H1447@accor-hotels.com or h1447-gl@accor-hotels.com. Stowed our bikes in our small but modern hotel room. Barry, Joe and I had a dark beer in a cafe next to the hotel.

About 6:00 Barry and I took a #41 bus to University Platz and looked for the Backmulde Gasthof. We found it almost immediately purely by accident. We had a great meal of salad E3.95 ($4.35), cream mushroom soup, lamb, scalloped potatoes, zucchini E19.90 ($21.89), bread and two .33 liter Schlosser Alts at E2.00 ($2.20) each plus E2.15 ($2.37) tip. Backmulde was where Anne and I stayed and ate in 1969. It is very memorable and praised by people to whom we have recommended it.

October 3, 2003 Friday Bike Heidelberg to Frankfurt

Got up at 6:30, dressed for biking and packed up. 7:00 breakfast of milk, hot chocolate, orange juice, fruit salad and two brotchen with butter and jam. It rained during the night. The sky is dark and threatening fitting the weather forecast.

Lew Frain charged nine fares and bikes from Heidelberg to Langen for $10.00 each. Boarded the train with our bikes in a bike car at 9:30 on track 1 making many stops passing through Darmstadt to Langen. Everyone is on the train except Dick, Tim, Janet and Sue. We almost missed our stop but managed to unload about 12 bikes in a hurry using a relay system.

We weaved our way on our bikes past the Frankfurt airport mostly on bike paths to Sinlingen about noon so all 12 biked to Dortmunder ECK for lunch. I had a Dortmunder pils, creamed broccolli soup, curry bratwurst and fries for E8.30 ($9.13) plus E1.00 ($1.10) tip. We biked 14.8 miles in 1:20:11 averaging 11.0 mph reaching a maximum 20.5 mph.

Checked into room 411 of the Top Hotel Post Frankfurt Airport at 50^o 856 N by 8^o 31.031 E; Sindlingen Bahnstrasse 12-16; Frankfurt, Germany; US - 011 49 69 37010; Germany 069 37010; info@airporthotel-post.de. Tore down my bike and packed it in my bike box which I retrieved from the garage. Carried my bike box to my room and packed it with dirty clothes and gear I won't need.

Walked to a small restaurant with Barry and Bob Benhoff at 6:00. Had two Henninger beers, bean soup, salad, Jagrschnitzel with mushrooms and fries for E14.90 ($16.39) plus E1.60 ($1.76). The place was smoky and not very nice but the food was excellent. Stopped in an ice cream shop for a E2.00 ($2.20) cup of pistachio ice cream.

October 4, 2003 Saturday Fly Frankfurt to Baltimore

Got up at 6:00 and went down to a buffet breakfast on the first floor.

Caught the 7:00 hotel shuttle to the airport terminal. Tipped the driver E5.00 ($5.50) as I have Euros left over. Checked in and went to the Duty Free Shop. Spent my remaining E15.00 ($16.50) on a large milk chocolate bar for my daughter Kara, Bon Bons for Anne and a large chocolate bar with almonds for myself. I have less than a Euro in change left over.

Managed to negotiate the security maze in the airport to board NorthWest flight #51 at

10:40 am from Frankfurt (FRA) to Detroit (DTW) arriving at 1:50 pm flying 4140 miles in 9:10 hours.

We had to go through immigration then get our luggage which took forever being the very last of a large full plane. We then had to go through a long line for customs and we are now in a hurry to catch our next plane. Knowing this the customs agent unnecessarily delayed us further. Next it was security and again the TSA people delayed us unnecessarily. We finally got our bike boxes rechecked and hustled to the terminal train to take us to the gate. We walked onto the loaded plane a few minutes before they closed the doors and took off. A two hour layover which should have been plenty of time turned into a nail biter.

We boarded NorthWest flight #1140 at 03:40 pm from Detroit (DTW) to Baltimore (BWI) arriving at 5:11 pm after flying 404 miles in 1:32 hours. Anne and Carol Nelson were there to pick us up in the Nelson's Chevrolet van. Barry's bike box made our flight but mine did not so we left for home. The Nelsons dropped us off about 7:00. My bike was delivered about 10:30.