BIKE AUSTRALIA

On March 11, 2003 I flew 9,816 miles from Baltimore via Los Angeles arriving in Sydney, Australia on Thursday March 13.

On Saturday I joined the Big Ride with about 1,040 other cyclists on a 9 day 364.6 mile (588 kilometer) ride from Warragamba to Cootamundra. The ride was put on by the New South Wales (NSW) Bicycle Club and sponsored by the NSW Road and Transit Authority to benefit Multiple Sclerosis. On the 5th day a rest day in Goulburn I played golf with 2 Australian friends.

After the ride, I rented a car and drove from Sydney through Canberra to the Snowy Mountains where I hiked up Mount Kosciuszko at 7310' (2228 meters) the highest point in Australia. I drove on through the mountains spotting abundant wildlife into Victoria to Melbourne Airport where I flew to Hobart, Tasmania.

Here I rented a car and drove to Mt Fields, Lake St. Clair and Freycinet National Parks on successive days to day hike. In Freycinet I climbed a challenging Mount Amos for the stunning view of Wineglass Bay.

Flying from Hobart to Alice Springs, Northern Territory in the center of Australia, I took a 2 day tour hiking in Kings Canyon and around Ayers Rock in the dry heat with temperatures reaching 106^oF (41^oC).

Flying on north to tropical Darwin I took a 3 day tour of spectacular Kakadu National Park with its crocodiles, eagles and aborigine rock paintings. Here we hiked and swam during the heat of the day in clean pools scooped out by waterfalls cascading from the sheer escarpment.

Another flight east across the Gulf of Carpentaria to Cairns in Queensland on the northeast coast of Australia. A beautiful beach resort, Cairns offers many activities in the cooling sea breezes. I took a boat ride to the Great Barrier Reef for scuba diving and snorkeling over and around the abundant coral, plant life and fish displayed in every size, shape and color imaginable.

I flew back to Sydney for my final sunrise run through the parks to the waterfront by the Opera House and bridge through the Botanical Gardens. I flew home via Los Angeles and Denver to Baltimore. The trip went off without a hitch and was very interesting because of what I learned, the varied activities, scenery and eco systems. I found Australians to be very friendly, open and I made many friends and acquaintances. It was truly a great trip!

March 11, 2003 - Tuesday Fly Baltimore to Los Angeles

Got up at 4:30 and ran 5.1 miles in a dark 21^o. Had a large glass of orange juice followed by a large toasted slice of homemade Italian bread with butter and strawberry jam and a glass of milk. Shaved and showered before loading 26 pound hockey bag and 8 pound backpack into my car. I loaded the 68 pound bike box with camping gear into the car yesterday. Said good-bye to daughter Kara and 19 month old grandson Logan then drove off with Anne at 6:34. We breezed the 20 miles to Baltimore Washington International Airport.

I unloaded the car and tried to check in at curbside. A United man loaded my gear on a cart and walked me directly to the ticket agent. Although the lady taking my reservation told me my bike would go free my E ticket documentation said I would have to pay a fee. The ticket agent said since I was flying international my bike went free. He was actually nice, courteous and friendly to my surprise unlike the Lufthansa people last fall in Frankfurt. I was checked in by 7:06 and went outside to tip the man $2 which was all the small bills I had. Breezed through security and walked to my loading area D-11 by 7:14. The process I dreaded went quickly, smoothly and pleasantly. A good beginning to the trip.

Talked to John from a small village on the island of Odense in Denmark. He works for a small company in Frederick, Maryland providing Just in Time (JIT) services (hardware and software). He works with Target and UPS. He is returning home soon.

I boarded United flight 299 seat 23D a Boeing 757 for the 2329 mile 5:21 hour flight to Los Angeles. We left on time flying by snow capped Pikes Peak and the Grand Canyon before arriving at LAX terminal 7 at 11:42 ten minutes early. I sat next to a young couple going to Hawaii for 3 weeks. We were served an orange juice, banana and a dough pocket with egg, cheese and ham. Later I was served an orange juice and then a snack with a Bloody Mary mix.

It is 64^o with a haze but sunny. With a 10+ hour layover I decided to walk the airport both ways on different levels to get some exercise. The temperature has risen to a pleasant 68^o with a slight breeze. A young man stopped me to give me the holy book of the Hari Krishnas. He claims that the Christian god is throwing people away and that god loves everybody and will save everybody. He claims that all you have to do is constantly chant Hari Krishna, Jesus and 4 or 5 other deities and you will have peace. I told him that the only peace and salvation is through Jesus Christ as revealed in the infallible revealed word of God the Bible. We are commanded to prove all things because the Bible is totally true but not so any other book. The young man got quite agitated and temporarily lost his peace. I made a second round trip of the airport before stopping at the Redondo Brew for a pint of ale, bratwurst and fries for $14.75 including a $2 tip. I tried to call home on my 800 number but didn't remember it correctly so I got someone else.

I boarded United flight 815 seat 52H on a Boeing 747 at 9:10 pm. We took off about 10:00 (1:00 am Eastern Standard Time) for the 7,487 mile flight to Sydney, Australia taking 13:48 hours timed. I had an aisle seat with the seat next to me empty although the plane was nearly full.

March 12, 2003 - Wednesday Fly Los Angeles to Sydney, Australia

We were served a chicken roll, pasta, Bloody Mary mix and salad about an hour after take off. I slept 3 or 4 hours and was awakened for a ham and cheese sandwich, corn curls and water. I slept some more then watched National Geographic's reenactment of the Freemont expedition down the Colorado River in 1867. Also watched the British expedition to capture Lake Tanganyika from the Germans during World War I. About 2 hours before landing I was served banana pancakes, link sausages, cracker, cheese, fruit salad, orange juice, crescent roll and milk for breakfast.

March 13, 2003 - Thursday Tour Sydney

We landed in Sydney at 6:50 am daylight savings time (14:50 Eastern Standard Time Wednesday). I had been traveling for 23:20 hours. I got off the plane quickly and picked up my hockey bag before going for my bike in the designated area for oversized luggage. I had to go through quarantine because of my bike. An attractive young agent made me open my bike box for inspection and I was through in 5 minutes. I stopped at an ATM for Australian $200 ($124.34 including fees) and then information for bus directions.

I paid A$7 ($4.35) for a bus ticket to Central Station. A nice young lady gave me her front seat so I could put my bike box in it. After about a 20 minute ride I was dropped in front of the train station. I had to carry my backpack, hockey bag and bike box totaling about 100 pounds across the front of the station about a city block to the Sydney Central Youth Hostel. I got a little warm in the 65^o (18^OC) mostly cloudy weather.

The young people were really nice and checked me into room 508 for two nights at A$88 ($53.12) per night. I joined the Youth Hostel Association for A$35 ($21.13). It is 9:00 a.m. and I am amazed how smoothly everything is going. The room is immaculately clean, large, simple but very adequate.

I bought 750 ml (28.5 oz) water for A$2.20 ($1.37). I walked down George Street to the Harbor Bridge crossing it and returning in 81^o (27^oC). A 3 ½ hour walk on the bridge super structure cost A$175 ($108.80) so I skipped it. Walked through The Rocks district and stopped at SAM's Health Bar for a baked potato with chicken saute, slaw, cheese, sour cream and a fresh fruit drink for A$10 ($6.22). Walked around Round Harbor to the beautiful Sydney Opera House. It truly is a marvel. Walked back to Round Harbor for a double scoop of gelato A$4.40 ($2.74). Took the 2:00 ferry from Pier 3 to Manley and back for A$10.80 ($6.46). The harbor is very big and convoluted. Walked back on Pitt Street then cut over through Darling Harbour. Went to the train station and got a quote of A$200 ($124.34) to store my bike box for a month.

Went back out for dinner and couldn't find anything decent so I stopped at a Subway for a 6" Italian BMT, chips and lemon drink for A$9 ($5.60) instead of the A$6.35 advertised on the wall. I am punchy and very slow due to lack of sleep. Went to bed about 8:30.

150^o 10' 32" E 32^o 42' 31" S
Sydney Central Youth Hostel, 11 Rawson Place, Sydney 2000, (02) 9281 9111
Sunrise 6:56 Moonrise 14:54 Sunset 19:20

March 14, 2003 - Friday Tour Sydney

Got up at 6:01 and went out running at 6:30 in the gray light and 64^o (18^oC). I ran up Pitt Street 5 blocks turning right on Liverpool Street two blocks to Hyde Park. I ran north through Hyde Park angling east into a park called The Domain continuing on into the Royal Botanical Gardens. I ran along Wooloomooloo Bay to Mrs. Macquarries Point descending to water level with great views of the Sydney Opera House framed by the Harbour Bridge and highlighted by the rising sun behind me at 6:57. I ran around Farm Cove noting all the strange (to me) birds (kookaburra, parrots, etc.), trees and flowers to the Opera House where I turned back up the hill in the Botanical Gardens. After loosing my way a couple of times and backtracking I emerged the gardens where I originally entered. I retraced my route through the Domain and Hyde Park to Park Street where I stopped after 43:46 minutes and something over 5 miles (8 kilometers). I walked back to the Youth Hostel to cool down. This is one of the most memorable runs of my life reminiscent of a run with my friend Ferdinand in Buenos Aires.

Went downstairs for breakfast of pancakes orange juice, milk and fruit salad at the Central Gourmet Cafe for A$12.60 ($7.54). I met Daryl from Portland along the coast west of Melbourne. He has a school bus business and builds houses. He has bicycled all over the world. We walked to New South Wales (NSW) Bicycle Club at 209 Castlereigh Street. We met Matt and Kay Conroy who handled my paperwork for the Big Ride. Matt offered to keep my bike box until I go home. I returned to my room and half assembled my bike then carried the box back to NSW bicycle. Matt put it on a shelf in a back room. On the way back I stopped at Chinottos for lunch of toasted chicken, cheese and tomato on Turkish bread and a vanilla milkshake for A$13.70 ($8.36). Stopped at Global Gossip a cyber shop and called Kara and Anne for A$4.40 ($2.74). I then sent an e-mail for A$2.95 ($1.83). I stopped at the Youth Hostel travel desk for some ideas for after the bicycle ride.

Completed assembly of my 8 speed Trek 2120 60 cm carbon fiber frame with a triple chain ring bike. Tried my Global Positioning System (GPS) but couldn't get it to work in the city surrounded by high rise buildings.

At 4:45 I walked north on George Street and stopped in Cheers for a ½ liter of Kilkenny Irish cream ale for A$4.95 ($3.08). It is one of my all time favorite beers and it didn't disappoint. Turned left on Liverpool Street to #77 and Casa Asturiana a Spanish restaurant. I had a garden salad, cazuela (fish, mussels and lingustino cooked in a wine sauce), two hard rolls with butter, fresas (strawberries marinated in a sweet vanilla liquor served with whipped cream) and a liter of water for A$44 ($26.61) including tip. Everything was delicious and the service was attentive but low key.

150^o 10' 32" E 32^o 42' 31" S
Sydney Central Youth Hostel, 11 Rawson Place, Sydney 2000, (02) 9281 9111

March 15, 2003 - Saturday Bike 34 km Warragamba to Camden

Got up at 5:15, packed up and checked out. Walked one block to the station with my bag riding on the bike. Dumped my unzipped back rack bag in the street and probably lost my cyclometer in the gray light. Removed the bag, peddles and turned the handlebars before loading my bike on the green truck #1. Daryl Petch showed up and we crossed the street and loaded our bags on Murray's bus #1. Went back into a shop in the station and bought ½ liter orange juice, muffin and a banana for A$5.40 ($3.36). The bus was ready to go so we took off at 6:50 for the 1:10 hour drive to Warragamba.

Picked up my registration kit attached my number to the bike, hung meal ticket around my neck, put my luggage tags on my bag and tent and placed my ID bracelet on my wrist. Bought a blueberry muffin A$1 ($.62) from a fireman who told me the shopping center across the street burned down a year ago last Christmas by a fire started by lightening 3-4 days out in the outback bush. Bought a sausage, egg, cheese and barbecue sauce muffin for A$3 ($1.86) from a local that was very good. The trucks finally came with our bikes so I straightened the handlebars, put the peddles on, the back rack bag on, lubed the chain with White Lightening and bought a 600 ml (23 oz) bottle of cold water for A$2.20 ($1.37).

We finally got going at 11:00 in a mass start of about 1,040 cyclists. The terrain is rolling but nothing serious. About 2/3 of the way we had lunch of quiche, apple, cookie, apple drink and cheese. Talked to Tom at the start and John during the ride who is interested in my bike ride from Prague to Budapest. Talked to 2 ladies during lunch. Rolled into Camden at 1:21 in 84^o under sunny skies turning cloudy after 34 kilometers (21.1 miles) climbing 1170' and descending 1510' with one major hill.

We camped at 34^o 03' 11" S by 150^o 41' 28" E at 260' altitude in a very large field. Set up my Coleman 7' x 7' dome tent and talked to the Aussie Rod Frazier camped next to me. Showered in one of three shower trucks. The trucks are divided in half one for men and the other half for women each half with about 8 showers. It started raining and I fell asleep waiting for it to quit. Again I talked to Rod and he said I needed a plate, bowl, knife, fork and spoon. I went to the information and store tent and bought what I needed for A$8 ($4.97). I didn't know I needed them because I didn't get my ride information package until I got to Sydney and didn't have time to read it. At 6:00 we were served lasagna, potatoes, corn on the cob, roll with butter, cantalope, ice cream and salad in a light rain. I drank a can of Toohey's Old Black Ale for A$3 ($1.86). I stood under a roof overhang by the St John's Ambulance Service talking to Murray and Dave. Walked over to a meeting at 7:30. Daryl came by and we talked to another man. A man and woman band played and sang until 8:30.

We have a nine member NSW police escort that does a tremendous job. They are around all the time and control what little traffic we may encounter. The bike ride is sponsored by the Road and Transit Authority (RTA) which includes the police. We also have a large staff of volunteers that are stationed at every turn directing bike traffic. Went to bed at 9:15.

Moonset 3:59 Sunrise 6:58 Moonrise 16:31 89% Sunset 19:18

March 16, 2003 - Sunday Bike 81 km Camden to Bowral

Got up at 5:40 and headed to breakfast of hard boiled egg, roll and butter, orange juice, oatmeal with yogurt and milk. Talked to Jessie who had been in Montana and biked 10,000 miles around Australia. Packed up a wet tent and loaded it with my hockey bag onto the green truck. Talked to Rod Frazier and his friend Murray Walker. Two hot air balloons came over camp at the tree top level.

Got water and took off at 7:42 under dark clouds. The Big Ride has water stops every 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) which I seldom stop at. Our route was mostly uphill to Oakdale at 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) where I stopped for a banana and apple strudel for A$1.50 ($.93). It was up and down through Willongbongshire to Bargo where we stopped for lunch. I had a roll with ham, carrots, pimento peppers and lettuce, orange drink, apple, yogurt and a caramel cake at 10:40. Talked to another bloke during lunch. Broke a rear spoke with the nipple pulling out of the rim. Stopped at a small plane airport rest stop and bought a banana $.50 ($.31). Continued up a nasty hill through a brief rain into Bowral at 34^o 29' 18" S by 150^o 25' 06" E at 2070' elevation about 1:00. I biked 81 kilometers (50.3 miles) climbing 3960' and descending 1980' in 3 major climbs.

Set up my tent in a light rain and then showered in a shower truck. We had a hot sun alternating with showers all afternoon. Our space is not as big as before so the tents are crowded together more. Went to the beer tent for a Toohey's Old Black ale for A$3 ($1.86). Started talking to Graham Roberts a teacher from Brisbane waiting for his wife Vicky. Leigh Marshall a retired air force pilot from New Castle joined us also waiting for his wife Linsay to come in. John Hawley joined us and then their wives as they rode in. Slowly more of Graham's friends from Brisbane joined us. We hung around until 6:00 then ate supper of chicken kebobs, rice, gravy, pineapple, salad, roll, butter and a cream cake dessert. We had a meeting at 7:30. Five Americans were introduced as Superstars for raising $20,000 each for Multiple Sclerosis. One man was here for the 4th straight year. I took my rear wheel to Pegasus bike shop to replace the spoke for A$20 ($12.09).

Moonset 5:08 Sunrise 6:59 Moonrise 18:13 95% Sunset 19:17

March 17, 2003 - Monday Bike 72 km Bowral to Bundanoon

Got up at 5:20 to fog and heavy dew. 6:00 breakfast of potatoes, sausage, orange juice, milk, oatmeal, banana and roll with butter. The moon set at 6:18 and the sun came up at 6:59. Finished packing up and took down a wet tent loading them on the green truck.

Biked off at 7:32 with the sun low and often in the eyes making it difficult to see anything. I stopped at the first water stop to put sunscreen on. Talked to Lindsay Marshall. I passed John from the first day so we rode together for a long time and talked. Everyone stopped for quite a while as a large herd of cows was on the road. I climbed a large hill and pulled into the morning tea stop where I bought 2 pikelets (small pancakes) with a little jelly and whipped cream (delicious), banana and a glass of milk for A$3.60 ($2.24). I descended a long hill and biked along a large lake to lunch of chicken salad tortilla or wrap, orange, muffin, orange drink and large cookie. A young lady from New Zealand but living in Australia sat next to me and chatted. An older lady from Slovenia joined in and she had climbed Kilimanjaro, trekked in Nepal, trekked the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, etc. We had a lot in common.

Soon after lunch I linked up with Justin Holmwood of the NSW police wearing a CCCP shirt. We rode the last 30 kilometers (18.6 miles) together into Bundanoon Camp at 12:15. We had some great conversation and the time passed quickly. I biked 72 kilometers (44.6 miles) in 4:43 hours climbing 2260' and descending 2320' over 4 major climbs.

Set up my tent and showered. I am camped next to a pleasant woman who is a medical doctor in Sydney with a new foldup bike from England. Bundanoon is located at 34^o 39' 08" S by 150^o 18' 19" E at 2160' elevation. It is mostly sunny and 81^o (27^oC). Walked in to Scottish Bundanoon and stopped in the Bundanoon Hotel for two draft 400 ml Toohey's Old Dark Ales for A$3.50 ($2.18) each and a bag of potato chips (I need the salt) for A$1.50 ($.93). Music by the Hum Dingers started at 4:00 by the beer tent. They are lively and play a good selection of old favorites. Napped while my biking clothes dried. All three sets are dry.

Walked to the beer tent and met Vicky Roberts who invited me to join them. Daryl hailed me so I joined him at a table. Soon Tom Wall who I talked to at the start of the ride and his wife Marie joined us. They are from Perth and know Daryl from a previous ride. They did a great bike ride down the Natchez Trace and through Cajun country to New Orleans. Daryl invited Peter sitting behind us to join us and his friend also Peter both joined us. Peter's teenage daughter and another woman joined us. The band was playing and the crowd was very lively with many dancing. At 6:00 I had a roll with butter, a very tasty macaroni dish, rice pudding, salad and watermelon. The moon rose at 18:51 with 99% of it's face visible and the sun set at 19:15. I talked to everyone at our table during the evening. We had our 7:30 meeting ending with the mayor singing "Danny Boy". This happens every meeting with most of them sounding horrible but a couple were pretty good. The band played until 9:00 with several encores. I went to bed at 9:45.

March 18, 2003 - Tuesday Bike 79 km Bundanoon to Goulburn

Got up at 5:23. 6:00 breakfast of pancakes, orange juice, milk, oatmeal and banana. Packed up and took down a very wet tent from the dew. Loaded my gear on the green truck and got ready to ride. The sun rose at 7:07 and the moon set at 7:37.

Biked out at 7:32 and again the low sun is a problem. The biking is easy and I'm starting to regain some strength. Stopped for morning tea at the Tallong Community Church. I had 2 scones with strawberry jam and whipped cream (not sweet), milk and a banana for A$4.60 ($2.86). Australians are very nice and inclusive in that they welcome strangers. They are also very competitive. Stopped for lunch at Bungonia Park. I had an orange drink, and a bratwurst with onions and barbecue sauce. Watched a kangaroo who apparently jumped a 7' fence to get into a pasture with some sheep. Took it easy coming into Goulburn arriving at 11:38 after 79 kilometers (49.0 miles) in 4 hours and 6 minutes climbing 2200' (671 meters) and descending 2320' (707 meters) in 3 climbs.

It is 84^o (29^oC) with a nice breeze in Goulburn located at 34^o 45' 33" S by 149^o 43' 28" E at 2058' (627 meters) elevation. Walked into town to the information center and sent an e-mail free. Stopped in the Hibernian Hotel for a Tooheys Old Dark Ale for A$3.40 ($2.11). Walked around the town and stopped in the Empire Hotel for another Toohey's Old Dark Ale and potato crisps for A$5.40 ($3.36). Met and talked with Graham and Vicky Roberts then Daryl Petch on the street. Later I saw Leigh and Lindsay Marshall with John Hawley. Returned to camp and bought a bottle of water and cashews for A$6 ($3.73). Found a shady spot near the band and was soon joined by many people. 6:00 supper was spaghetti with meat sauce, chocolate brownie, salad and cantaloupe. Hung around talking until 9:15 before going to bed.

March 19, 2003 - Wednesday Tour Goulburn

Got up at 5:45 and don't have to take down the tent today. Went to breakfast of orange juice, milk, cereal, French toast with sweet mince at 7:00. Sunrise was at 7:10 followed by the moon setting at 8:38. Hiked across the golf course and up a high hill to a World War I memorial with many pictures overlooking Goulburn. Walked back via the road completing about a 3 mile (4.8 kilometer) circuit.

Ate lunch of cheese, pimento pepper and lettuce sandwich, fruit punch, cheese and apple at 11:30. Talked to Tom and Marie Wall.

At 1:00 I met Ray Klane from Brisbane and Daryl Petch at the golf course clubhouse and paid A$10 ($6.22) for 18 holes. We shared a small set of clubs with very flexible shafts and a big new demo driver. Ray and Daryl are big hitters and good golfers scoring in the low 80s despite being off their game. The course is a long 5694 meters (6227 yards) but it is dry and the ball rolls well. I shot a 96 with a 9 and a 10 but did manage to birdie two par 3s on the back nine. Daryl couldn't believe me and was shaking his head at some of my shots. First I hit the pin and cup with a chip shot from 50 - 75 yards, then I drove a worm burner that rolled across a narrow bridge turning into a fair drive and finally I missed a chip shot that bounced in a trap onto the green turning left and rolling near the pin. We had a great time and I got to play golf in Australia.

Returned to camp at 5:15 and had a can of Toohey's Old Dark Ale for A$3 ($1.86) at the beer tent. Joined Leigh and Lindsay Marshall and John Hawley for supper of spicy chicken and rice gumbo, caeser salad and fruit salad with whipped cream. The food is catered by the same company and has been plentiful and good. The sun set at 7:22 and the moon rose at 8:00 with 98% lumination. Had two more Toohey's OBAs and watched Red Faces an amateur talent show that was very funny with some clever acts.

March 20, 2003 - Thursday Bike 98 km Goulburn to Bungendore

It rained hard with high winds and lightening twice during the night. The wind continued to blow so the tent was dry for the first time. Got up at 5:21 to scattered clouds. 6:00 breakfast of home fries with an egg on top and tomato sauce, oatmeal, milk and orange juice. Packed up and struck my tent to load my gear on the green truck.

Biked from camp at 7:08 with a nice tailwind and a sunrise at 7:11. Caught Leigh Marshall shortly and we rode together. I rode with my jacket on for the first time. We stopped at the Windellama Community Hall at 38 kilometers for morning tea. I got a banana and a glass of milk for A$1.50 ($.93). The hall is a long one story wooden frame building decorated with banners of various rural, women and men's organizations. It is similar to the grange halls in the United States. As we left we turned into a strong head wind which we had for the rest of the day. We biked through 1.2 kilometers of dirt road and had to walk a wooden bridge with large gaps between the floor boards at 64 kilometers as the moon set at 10:00.

This was our lunch stop. I found a small coin purse by the men's toilet truck and turned it into the St Johns Ambulance service. I got my lunch of seafood and lettuce tortilla, banana cake, muffin, fruit juice and apple. Leigh and I sat with Michael Wright amid hundreds of cyclists and he asked me about my biking. Michael disappeared and returned saying he found his wallet at the St Johns Ambulance service. Small world. We biked on and the wind seemed to get worse. Leigh stopped at afternoon tea at 81 kilometers so I went on. I arrived at Bungendore after 98 kilometers (60.8 miles) at 13:27 in 6:17 hours climbing 2780' and descending 2540' in 3 major climbs.

Bungadore is at 35^o 15' 14" S by 149^o 26' 44" E at 2350' elevation. It is 73^o (23^oC) with the barometric pressure at 27.45" at 14:37. I set up my tent and showered. I washed my last pair of biking shorts in the shower but don't need to wash anymore biking shirts. Walked downtown to the Royal Hotel for a 425 ml (16 oz) schooner of Carlton Draught (too light) and a bag of crisps for A$4.60 ($2.86). I normally don't eat potato chips but I need to keep my body salt level up. Stopped in a food store for 150 grams (5.3 oz) of cashews (more salt) for A$3.95 ($2.46). I ran into John Hawley and we talked. He ran the Boston Marathon in 1978 in less than 3 hours. He has a daughter 19 and son Robin 16. He is a school teacher and rides his bike to school everyday. Leigh and Lindsay Marshall came by and we all walked back downtown for two small Toohey's Old Black Ale drafts at another pub. Walked back to camp for 6:00 supper of beef stew, mashed potatoes, blueberry cake with custard and watermelon. As the sun set at 7:21 it is getting cold so I put on shoes, socks and zippered the legs on my pants. The 7:30 meeting concluded with 8 young ladies dancing to modified aborigine music. Very well done. The moon rose at 8:44 at 93% luminescence and I went to bed at 8:45.

March 21, 2003 - Friday Bike 101 km Bungendore to Yass

Got up at 5:42. It was a very cold night. My White Lightening chain lube is frozen so I can't lube the bike chain. White Lightening doesn't work very well as I have had to lube my chain almost everyday. 6:00 breakfast of English muffin with baked beans, oatmeal, orange juice and milk. Packed up and rolled a wet tent before loading my gear on the green truck. The sun rose at 7:12.

Biked from camp at 7:22 with the low sun still a problem. We climbed two hills in quick succession the first 10-12% about as steep as we have seen on this trip. Saw a lot of road kill including a lot of large snakes. Stopped at morning tea of a banana, banana muffin and milk for A$2 ($1.24) in Sutton at 34 kilometers. Saw Daryl and he is not feeling well. He has some kind of bug. Biked on to lunch of ham sandwich with cheese, water cress and sauce, apple, yogurt, orange pineapple drink, carrot muffin and cookie. Ate lunch with Daryl who is having trouble eating and not doing well at all.

Biked past afternoon tea and hooked up with a young man of 30. We crossed 4.8 kilometers (3 miles) of dirt road and then took off. We talked as we sped along a high ridge with good views of the surrounding countryside. We got into some rolling hills. I finally slowed down and followed him the last 5 kilometers into Yass. I arrived in camp at 12:42 after 101 kilometers (62.6 miles) in 5:20 hours. I climbed 2710' and descended 3360' in 3 climbs.

Yass is at 34^o 50' 05" S by 148^o 54' 31" E at 1650' elevation. Set up my tent and showered. I heard someone say that the US started bombing Baghdad and Bush was holding a news conference this afternoon whenever that is. Walked to downtown Yass which is relatively large, prosperous and neat. Stopped in Marino's Bar for a Towhee's Old Dark Ale and crisps for A$4.50 ($2.80). Walked to a pie shop and had a delicious chicken and mushroom pie A$3 ($1.86) and 600 ml milk A$1.50 ($.93). Returned to camp at 4:15. Fell asleep and napped until 6:00 when I went to supper of boiled potatoes, pork roast, gravy, carrots, peas, fresh pineapple and banana custard. I ate with Leigh and Lindsay Marshall, John Haley, Graham, Rod, Chris and another couple. Drank a can of Towhee's Old Black Ale after supper. It got really cold when the sun went down at 7:20 but not as cold as yesterday. 7:30 meeting followed by an auction of bike gear for Multiple Sclerosis. The moon rose at 9:20 with an 86% luminescence.

March 22, 2003 - Saturday Bike 80 km Yass to Harden

It is a very cold night with a heavy morning dew. Got up at 5:48 and went to breakfast of scrambled eggs, grilled tomatoes, roll and butter, banana, oatmeal, orange juice and milk at a little past 6:00.

The sun rose at 7:13 behind a huge cloud bank as I biked from camp at 7:21. We started off with a couple big hills then hit the gravel (unsealed) road for 6 kilometers (3.7 miles). Within sight of the end I got a rear flat on a downhill going too fast on exposed sharp rocks. I found a clean hole in the tire with nothing in it. I was near the rear as I started again. I passed morning tea in Browning at 19 kilometers (11.8 miles). Rolled into lunch in Binalong at 41 kilometers (25.5 miles) at 10:00. Lunch was a tortilla with ham, lettuce and potato salad, orange, pineapple drink, banana nut muffin and cheese.

The remainder of the ride was all hills constantly up and down and probably some of the prettiest scenery. I biked into Harden camp at 12:06 after 80 kilometers (49.7 miles) taking 4:45 hours. I climbed 3200' and descended 3420' in 9 climbs.

Harden is at 34^o 33' 23" south by 148^o 22' 06" east at 1350' elevation. Ray Klane came by as I set up my tent and wanted to know if I would play golf. I declined due to the late hour. Showered and talked to the same man as yesterday. Walked downtown to the Royal Hotel for a 425 ml (16 oz) schooner of draft Toohey's Old Black Ale and crisps for A$4 ($2.49). Half the stores on the 2 block main street are for sale. The town's economy is not healthy. Met Daryl Petch and we walked down the entire street. Stopped at a bank ATM and withdrew A$200. Returned to camp and had a lamb roll with mint sauce for A$3.50 ($2.18) in support of a local charity. Bought 600 ml (23 oz) cold water for A$2 ($1.24). There are 3 toilet trucks and 3 shower trucks. Each has ½ for women and ½ for men. The showers have about 8 men's showers and the toilets about 8 plus a large urinal. I bought 3 scenery photos at A$5.50 ($3.41) each and a biking photo of myself for A$12 ($7.44) from the ride photographer. Talked to John Hawley and had a tea with him. 6:00 supper of chicken curry with zucchini, green beans, pepper and onion, rice, watermelon and apple pie with ice cream. The sun set at 7:20. Met Daryl and Ray and had a plastic cup of white wine with them during the 7:30 meeting. We walked down to main street for the hat party. Daryl loaned me his hat and he wore a plaid tam with a wig of long red hair. Drank a small plastic cup of beer. The moon rose at 10:00 with 77% luminescence. Went back to camp and bed at 10:20.

March 23, 2003 - Sunday Bike 43 km Harden to Cootamundra

Got up at 5:20 and packed up. 6:00 breakfast of orange juice, milk, two croissants with butter and oatmeal. Because it was breezy, I packed up a dry tent and loaded it with my luggage on the green truck.

Biked out of camp at 7:08 in the cool 50s but warmer than the last two days. The sun came up at 7:14. We continued the hilly up and down until morning tea at Cullinga Mines Road and Ingolds Lane at 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) from camp. I bought a banana and two black plums locally grown for A$1.10 ($.68) and talked to Graham Roberts as I ate them. I am taking it easy not wanting to get to the end assembly area too soon. After morning tea the road turned decidedly down with a few small uphills that were easily run (slowing very little).

I arrived at the assembly area in Cootamundra located at 32^o 50' 10" south by 147^o 34' 50" east (calculated not measured) at 9:20. Graham suggested I get a ham and egg roll to which I added barbecue sauce for A$2.50 ($1.55) again supporting a local cause. Really good!! At 11:00 everyone was finally in and 1040 riders massed for the ride down main street under the FINISH banner to cheering crowds and booming drums. We turned into a city park with a cricket field in the center. I biked 43 kilometers (26.7 miles) today. In 8 days of cycling I covered 588 kilometers (365.4 miles). I found my luggage from the green truck and removed my bike pedals, back rack pack and pump then turned the handlebars. I loaded my bike, the fourth, on the green truck now headed for Sydney Central. I found where the Sydney buses would be and left my bags there. I bought a chicken kebob for A$2.50 ($1.55) and a sausage on bread for A$2.50 and a water for A$2 ($1.24). The Sydney buses pulled in and I put my hockey bag underneath and my bike bag with helmet on a seat. I grabbed some clothes out of the hockey bag and changed out of my cycling clothes.

We took off at 12:50 for the 4 ½ hour drive to Sydney. I sat and talked with Michael Wright. We stopped at a BP rest stop and I bought a vanilla ice cream A$2.50 and a 600 ml orange juice for A$2.50.

We got in at 5:55 so I walked to the Sydney Central Youth Hostel with my hockey bag and bike bag and checked into room 707 for A$88 ($53.09). The green truck pulled in at 7:00 and I was back at the hostel with my bike by 7:15. After chatting with a young man from Washington State who just returned from hiking in Tasmania I walked to the Capitan Torres on Liverpool Street for tapas including potatoes, perch, bread with butter, salad and a glass of house red wine (very good) for A$36 ($21.66) including tip. Stopped at Global Gossip and sent an e-mail #3 for A$3.80 ($2.28). It rained hard. Showered and went to bed at 11:30.

Sydney Central Youth Hostel, 11 Rawson Place, Sydney 2000, (02) 9281 9111

March 24, 2003 - Monday Make Reservations in Sydney

I was really tired and didn't get up until 7:13. I realized that I couldn't get everything arranged and leave today so I extended my stay for another night at A$88 ($53.09). I packed up my dry tent which I spread out last night to make sure it was completely dry. I emptied my hockey bag. I put my tent, air mattress, biking gear and bag into the hockey bag ready to be put into my bike box. I ate breakfast of two pancakes, orange juice, milk and fruit salad for A$12 ($7.26) at the Central Cafe in the hostel.

I walked 7 blocks to the New South Wales Bicycle Club at 209 Castlereigh Street and saw Matt. I told him I would return within an hour which I did. I walked back to the Youth Hostel then returned with my hockey bag riding on the bike. I packed my bike, biking gear and camping gear in the bike box and put it back on the table shelf behind the door in the large back room.

I returned to the Youth Hostel by 10:30 and started my badly needed 26 minute clothes wash for A$2.20 ($1.32). I went downstairs and booked my Virgin Blue flight from Melbourne to Hobart, Tasmania for A$99 ($59.72) on March 27. I then booked a flight on Qantas (Queensland and Northern Territory Air Service) from Hobart via Sydney to Alice Springs on March 31. I have a two day tour booked with Northern Territory Adventure Tours (NTAT) from Alice Springs to Kings Canyon, Ayers Rock and the Olgas for A$295 ($177.46). On April 3 I fly from Alice to Darwin and have a three day tour with Wilderness 4WD Adventures into Kakadu National Park for A$405 ($243.62). April 7 I fly Qantas, Darwin to Cairns. On April 9, I fly Virgin Blue from Cairns to Sydney for A$219 ($132). The Qantas flights and two tours came to A$1578.55 ($949.57).

I returned to the 8th floor laundry and dried my clothes 44 minutes for A$2.20. Back downstairs, I booked 4 nights in the Hobart Adelphi Court Youth Hostel for A$216 ($132.12). I ate a hot ham and cheese with salad sandwich and ice tea for A$12.60 ($7.56).

Walked to Global Gossip and called Anne for A$4.50 ($2.70). I walked to Park and Crown Streets and rented a car for 8:00 a.m. tomorrow for A$119 ($72.63) for three days dropping it at the Melbourne Airport from Value Car Rentals. I walked to Borders and bought a NSW map for A$6.95 ($3.57). I bought a vanilla milkshake for A$3.50 ($2.10).

At 6:30 I walked 3 blocks up Pitt Street to Encasa for a glass of house red wine, water, ensalada mixta, Morroccan lamb kebobs, potatoes with cheese and tomato sauce, mushrooms, bread and butter and custard desert for A$37 ($22.48) including tip. The people working in the restaurant are from Catalan, Spain.

March 25, 2003 - Tuesday Drive to Jindabyne-Snowy Mountains

Got up at 6:24 and ran 5.1 miles in very mild temperature about 60^o following the same basic route I did my first day in Sydney. Showered, packed up and checked out. Bought 600 ml orange juice for A$3 at the hostel store. Drank the orange juice as I carried my hockey bag 7 blocks to Hawk Rent a Car arriving at 8:40.

Got a credit of A$95.20 ($57.78) which will be charged by Advance Auto who owns the car. Got a Maroon Suzuki Ignis with 11,502 km (7,147 miles) on it and Victoria license number RRF 956. Drove right on Riley Street, left on Stanley Street, right on Palmer Street, left on Oxford Street, right on Bourke Street, right on South Dowling Street past the airport and on to the M-5 south. I passed Bowral, Bundanoon, Goulburn and Bungadore all names familiar to me from the bike ride. Saw many kangaroo carcasses and probably a fox along the road. Just short of Yass I turned left on Federal Highway (FH) 23 into Canberra 290 kilometers from Sydney. I drove through Canberra past Parliament House and headed south into the Kingston district of Canberra.

I stopped for 26.62 liters (7 gallons) of gas for A$24.57 ($14.82) at A$.959 per liter with the odometer reading 11,805 kilometers (7,336 miles). I drove three blocks to Kingston Center where I stopped at sidewalk Cafe Lella about 12:40 for lunch of banana milk shake A$6 and a ham, cheese and tomato sandwich on Italian bread for A$7.50 my bill totaling A$15.40 ($8.39) with tip.

I continued south on FH-23 to Cooma to FH-18 west and then a highway with no designation to Jindabyne about 3:30. I stopped in the visitors center where Mary Moore called three places to find me a room for A$60 ($36) for two nights at the Troldhaugen Lodge on Cobbadah Street run by John and Sandra Bradshaw. I'm in room 9 on the second floor and have the whole floor to myself. The room is large, cheerful and quite nice. I'm at 36^o 25' 01" south by 148^o 37' 07" east at 3060' elevation with the barometric pressure at 26.75" and the temperature about 75^o (24^o C). Jindabyne is located on a hillside above a large lake rimmed by mountains. In winter it is a ski center with Thredbo and Parrish an equal distant 34 kilometers away.

Drove a few blocks to the IGA supermarket and bought eight old bananas, two 750 ml waters, two 600 ml milks, a liter of orange juice, two peaches, six tortillas, jar of salsa, Edom cheese, .12 kg loose cashews, bag of chocolate chip cookies for A$23.48 ($14.20). After returning to the lodge I drove back down to the Bacco Ristorante for a glass of house red wine A$5, mixed salad A$6.90, warm bread with butter A$1.50 and penne pasta with prawn, mushroom, cream and tomato sauce A$18.90 all for A$36.30 ($21.96).

March 26, 2003 - Wednesday Climb Mt Kosciuszko

Got up at 5:20 and went downstairs for breakfast of orange juice, corn flakes with peaches and bananas. Packed my day pack.

Drove off at 6:00 in the dark headed up the Snowy River Valley (of movie fame) 38 kilometers (23.6 miles) to Charlottes Pass. Saw a kangaroo and many rabbits on the drive. Stopped at the end of the road above Charlottes Pass at 6:51 located at 36^o 25' 54" south by 148^o 19' 43" east at 5710' elevation.

I followed the Main Ridge and Blue Lake Trails to the right at 7:07 descending steeply 400' to cross the Snowy River on rocks. There was light frost on the tops of tufted grass in the 32^o (0^o C). The sun is rising shining on the high ridges. I ascended steeply over a ridge and descended slightly before taking a right on a spur trail down to Blue Lake outlet at 5800'. The Helm's Moraine south of the lake has recently been burned off. Returning back up hill to the trail junction a saw a scurrying 8" lizard and many birds.

I followed the Main Ridge Trail up passing a parked ranger truck at the end of the 4 wheel drive path and great views of the rugged mountains to the north. I continued to climb up and over Carruther's Peak at 6800' with the views getting better and more expansive in the full sun. The entire eco system is alpine with low grasses and other plants but nothing growing over 6" tall. It is stark but beautiful. After a short descent I follow a ridge line for a while before spotting two campers breaking camp some distance off the trail so we wave. Club Lake is far below on the left. I continue along past Alpina Lake far below on the right with the trail carved on the side of a steep mountain side. I cross a small valley and then start climbing the flank of Mount Kosciuszko where I see hundreds of small lizards. I meet a couple near the junction with the Kosciuszko Summit Trail.

I turn right up the 800 meter trail which is a good path gently graded as it wraps around the conical summit. I reached the 2228 meter (7,310') summit at exactly 11:00 in 63^o (17^o C). There are about ½ dozen people there who came up the other way from Thredbo. We all chat and take pictures. I talk to a lady before descending at 11:18. I pass about 75 school girls about 12 years old with their teachers coming up from Thredbo. I am amazed that you can get these girls to expend such an effort.

The lady I chatted to catches me as I talked to the teachers and we walk together to Seaman's Hut where we stop for lunch at 12:00. I have 600 ml milk, 4 tortillas with Edom cheese and salsa, four chocolate chip cookies and some cashews. We continue down the trail which is a rough gravel road to cross the Snowy River again passing several people coming up. The lady finally stops because of a foot problem and I kept going back to Charlotte Pass where I run into the couple I saw nearing the summit. I finished at 14:07 exactly 7 hours covering roughly 22 kilometers (13.7 miles) climbing and descending 2710' in 3 climbs.

I drove back to Jindabyne passing a couple of ski areas with many lifts, a large dead wombat and fire damage almost the entire distance. I returned to Troldhaugen Lodge about 3:00. Showered and shaved. Drove down and parked then walked to the IGA supermarket to buy 2 huge peaches A$2.07 plus .195 kg cashews A$4.07 totaling A$6.94 ($4.21). Walked back to the car depositing my purchases and jacket. Entered the Brumby Bar and Bistro for two 425 ml schooners Toohey's Old Black Ale at A$3.50 each and a wiener schnitzel (4 large cutlets covering a dinner plate), French fries, mixed vegetables and salad for A$23.60 ($14.28). The food is very good. Returned to the lodge at 7:20 and was to bed shortly.

March 27, 2003 - Thursday Drive to Melbourne & Fly to Hobart

Got up at 5:24 and went downstairs for orange juice, corn flakes and peaches. Packed up and loaded the car driving off in the dark at 6:24.

Drove through the ski town of Thredbo at the bottom of Mount Kosciuszko. Drove for an hour along a winding mountain road through heavy forest all fire damaged. I descended to a river where a I saw many kangaroos along the road some quite large. I listened to Australian Braodcasting Corporation public radio playing classical music, books, news, etc.. I went up and down through farm country before crossing a wide river into Victoria. Victoria seems more British than NSW and a bit wealthier. The roads and signs look like the UK but the countryside looks more like the western US with broad rich valleys ringed in mountains. Pulled into a pretty town of Tallangata and bought 18.72 liters (4.9 gallons) gas at A$1.069 per liter for $20 ($12) with the odometer at 12,305 km (7,646 miles).

Drove on to Wogong where I picked up the freeway south towards Melbourne 306 km distant. I passed many signs for koala bears as the highway passed through large groves of eucalyptus trees but I saw none. Stopped at a service area about 11:20 and ate 3 tortillas, Edom cheese, salsa, cashews, two bananas, peach, chocolate chip cookies, milk and orange juice. Stopped at 12,546 km and filled up with 30.61 liters (8.1 gallons) at A$1.029 per liter for A$31.50 ($19.12). Topped the tank at 12,650 km with 7.0 liters at A$.929 per liter for A$6.50 before driving into Melbourne Airport. I had to cycle back onto the freeway before returning to the airport. A Hertz woman employee led me in a car to the Advance drop off point.

I unloaded the car and dropped the key into at the Advance key box. I checked in at Virgin Blue flight DJ 192 seat 9F. Called Advance Car Rentals telling them their car was at the airport.

Boarded the plane at 4:50 and sat behind a male witch with black cloak, black witch cone hat, horn and various other symbols. The flight took about 1:10 hours from terminal to terminal half over the Tasman Sea.

Hobart Airport is small, neat and convenient. Picked up my hockey bag off the cart and walked a few feet to the Redline Coaches Airport Service, put my bag in the trailer and paid the woman driver A$9 to drop me at the Adelphi Court Youth Hostel at 17 Stoke Street in North Hobart coordinates 42^o 51' 46" south by 147^o 17' 29" east at 50' elevation.

A note instructed me to ring the bell and a man came and gave me a key to room 21. It is 7:15. I paid A$216 ($130.31) in Sydney for the first two nights without ensuit at A$49 per night and the last two nights with a bathroom at A$59 per night. I walked down the street 4-5 blocks to the Thai Gardens across the street from the Tasmanian Devils Australian Football League stadium as the players were leaving practice. I had two egg rolls, green curry chicken with vegetables in coconut milk, rice and water for A$19.40 ($11.84).

March 28, 2003 - Friday Hike Mt Fields N. P., Tasmania

Got up at 5:24 and ran 40 minutes down to the waterfront, around a pier of restaurants and back to the hostel. It was all uphill coming back which made it tough. I waited for the office to open at 8:00 so I could check-in. The lady told me breakfast was included so I went to the dining room for puffed wheat cereal and orange juice. Talked to a guy from Sydney who I saw in the restaurant last night. He was very helpful steering me on where to hike and get a rental car. Showered and called several rental car companies before I got a Mitsubishi Lancer from Thrifty for A$217 ($131.70) for 3 days plus A$44 ($26.70) gas with drop off at the airport.

The lady said the Thrifty address was 1117 Argyle so I went up and down the street before I discovered there was no such number. I asked a few people and found it after an hour of walking with the address being 11 through 17. I walked over to Elizabeth Street a pedestrian only mall for several blocks. I went to a Subway for a 6" Italian BMT and chocolate chip cookie for A$5.70 ($3.48). Bought a A$10 ($6.11) Telestra phone card and called Elke's in Alice Springs for ensuite room reservations for Monday March 31 and Wednesday April 2 at $50 per night.

Finally drove off at 12:30 heading north on A1 then left on A10 to left on B61 to Mt Fields National Park 77 kilometers (47.8 miles). Paid the A$10 ($6.11) entrance fee and after talking to the ranger hiked a 6.8 kilometer (4.2 miles) circuit past Russell Falls, Horseshoe Falls, Big Trees (eucalyptus) and Lady Baron Falls. The eucalyptus tree is the largest flowering tree in the world growing to 98 meters (322') in height. They are the second to the redwood which are conifers and grow to 211 meters. I drove 15 kilometers (9.3 miles) up a dirt road to Lake Dobson and hiked 2 kilometers around it. It is very pretty.

I returned to Hobart about 6:15 and made arrangements for changing rooms tomorrow. The lady recommended Tacos on the Salamanca where I went for supper of burrito del mar with rice, a Boag Premium, a Boag Draught and a salad for A$35 ($18.83). Salamanca is a row of old multistoried sandstone warehouses on the water that have been converted to trendy apartments, restaurants, art galleries, etc. They are very nice and the restaurants were all mobbed.

March 29, 2003 - Saturday Hike Lake St Clair N. P., Tasmania

Got up at 5:24 and packed up as I am moving rooms. Loaded everything in the car and drove north on A1 at 6:10 following yesterday's route. Turned left on A10 in Granton and took it easy in the dark as I am afraid of hitting a kangaroo or wombat. Passed yesterday's turn off and continued on to the Ouse Supermarket where I bought orange juice, a liter of milk, six hot dog buns, 250 grams (10 oz) cheddar cheese, two nectarines, two small banana and a packet of peanut M & Ms for A$12.65 ($7.72). Drank the orange juice and ate the two bananas as I drove northwest. Saw a half grown wombat cross the road in the gray light.

Pulled into Lake St Clair National Park at 42^o 06' 59" south by 146^o 10' 29" east at 2881' elevation at 8:51 178 kilometers (110.5 miles) from Hobart. Paid A$10 ($6.11) for a 24 hour pass then ate a bun with cheese and salsa and drank ½ liter of milk.

Started hiking at 9:26 after returning to the car for the trail map. Followed the Mt Rufus Track and started climbing a lot. It is 54^o (12^o C) and overcast with spotty fog. Passed two couples on the climb before arriving at the Shadow Lake Track turnoff at 10:30. The ranger advised me to make my decision here so since Mt Rufus was enshrouded in cloud or fog I turned right towards the lake. There are huge eucalyptus trees, fern trees, pineapple grass and many other plants that I don't have a clue. Saw many crows with a thin white edge to their tails while in flight. Saw many birds that I don't know. After ½ hour I looked back at Mt Rufus and it was perfectly clear.

Arrived at Shadow Lake 954 meters (3130') elevation at 11:30 and turned left along it's eastern shore. I skirted the lake and after about 20 minutes came to Forgotten Lake. Talked to two Aussies with fishing gear on an overnight campout on Forgotten Lake. Retraced my steps back to the Shadow Lake Track eating the M&Ms as I walked.

I turned left to continue on the circuit track. Passed many people coming back to the visitor center until I hooked up with Martin for the last mile arriving at 1:45. Martin from Hamburg, Germany just finished backpacking the Overland Track in 6 days. Martin is about 20, 6' 4" tall, thin, very blond, very blue eyes and spoke very good English. He is in Australia for 6 months. I finished the 12 mile circuit with 1460' (445 meters) climbing in 4:19 hours.

Ate another bun with cheese and salsa, two nectarines and finished the liter of milk. The sun came out near the end of the walk and it was nice for the two hour drive back to Hobart.

Picked up my key for room 26 ensuite. Showered and started some laundry at $2. The dryer is $2 for 45 minutes. Drove down Argyle Street to the Mobil station for A$20 ($12.20) of gas at A$.989 per liter ($2.28 per gallon) and got 20.22 liters with 30,523 kilometers on the speedometer. Drove to Elizabeth Street to the Queens Head Cafe for two 285 milliliter Cascade drafts, lamb tips, French fries and salad for A$21.80 ($13.30). They don't have a line for tipping on the charge slip. All the restaurants are full and for the second night in a row they squeezed me in before a reservation. Bought a double scoop of macadamia nut ice cream cone for A$2.75 ($1.68).

March 30, 2003 - Sunday Hike Freycinet National Park Tasmania

Got up at 5:20. What I didn't realize was that Australia went off daylight savings time so it was actually 4:20. Packed my day pack and drove over the Tasman Bridge on A3 at 4:50 past the airport headed northeast up the east coast of Tasmania. I drove cautiously wary of kangaroos and wombats. I saw many rabbits on the road.

Stopped in Swansea at 6:50 and bought a bacon and egg pie, a spinach and cheese pie, two 600 ml milk and an orange juice at the bakery for A$10.40 ($6.34). Ate the pies and drank the orange juice in the parking lot for breakfast. Swansea is a pretty little seaside town with great views of the mountains in Freycinet National Park across the bay. I drove another 45 minutes completing the 198 kilometer trip including the 25 kilometer drive down the peninsula after turning right on Route 1.

It is 7:40 and the office doesn't open until 8:00. Talked to an Australian who drove NASCAR in the US for a year about 1990. Charged my park entry fee of A$10 ($6.11). Drove another 4 kilometers. I drank a milk, registered and headed up the Mt Amos Track with my day pack at 8:22.

After a short distance on a path I was soon climbing on rocks. The ranger warned me it would be slippery on the steep wet table rock and he was right as I slipped several times when I didn't expect it. It was very tough going as it was very slick. I was sweating profusely from the exertion and tension. I was worried about coming back down. Many places I had to stop and study how I was going to get up or traverse a steep rock face. Saw hundreds of small salamanders. I got to the top of Mt Amos at 9:40 and was rewarded with a stunning view of Wineglass Bay a deep blue fading to turquoise near the bowed white sand beach. This has to be one of the top five views of my life. I picked my way back down not very gracefully but it wasn't that bad. Looking down I could see the route, cracks, handholds and footholds much better. I knew the rocks better so I made it safely without difficulty. On the way down I talked to the lead guide escorting 6 young people up. I then talked to a pretty young blond woman from Montreal and later her friend another pretty young blond with a heavy Yorkshire (England) accent. Also talked to a young Asian man as the traffic up really picked up. I completed the 2 mile climb up 1370' and back at 11:22 and signed out.

Opened the car and ate lunch of a hot dog bun with cheddar cheese and salsa and another carton of milk. I was startled by a 2' tall wallaby that came up to within a foot of my legs presumably begging some of my lunch. I was going to do some more hiking but decided to head back early at 11:45. I retraced my route back to Hobart and stopped for A$2 gas at $.989 per liter getting 2.02 liters enough to get me to the airport in the morning.

Showered and shaved. Walked to Concept's on Elizabeth Street for pasta with mussels and whole shrimp in a cream and tomato sauce, hot fresh bread and butter, tossed green salad and a Boag's draft for A$30.30 ($18.50). Stopped for a two scoop macadamia nut ice cream cone for A$2.85 on the way back.

March 31, 2003 - Monday Fly Hobart via Sydney to Alice Springs

Got up at 4:04 and packed up. A light rain is falling as I drop my key in the mail slot, load my gear in the car and drive across the Tasmania Bridge on A3 about 15 kilometers to the airport. I parked the car in a Thrifty reserved space at curbside by the front door and dropped the key in a box at their desk inside. It is 4:51. I am first in line but a crowd gathered by the time the ticket agent opened at precisely 5:00. I am checked in within seconds but have to wait for the security lane to open at 5:30.

The Security check is quick and I walk across the tarmac to the waiting Boeing 717-200 settling in seat 13A on Qantas flight 1710 from Hobart to Sydney. A nice young man Michael sat next to me and started talking. He is from the Midlands (middle of Tasmania), has three daughters 13, 11 and 9 and works in pine forestry for a lumber company. He is going to Sydney for a week of school. We chatted the entire 1:25 hour flight. We were served a croissant with jam and water.

I have a two hour layover so I bought an orange juice A$3 ($1.83) and sat down to watch Michigan State play Texas in the NCAA Southern Regional basketball final. Jack from Orange County, California and a graduate of Syracuse last year sat next to me and was delighted to learn that the Orangemen are in the final four.

I took off on a Boeing 737-300 in seat 27A on Qantas flight 790 at 9:55 on a 3:05 hour flight to Alice Springs arriving at 12:30. Alice time is ½ hour later than Sydney time. After a few miles the landscape flattened out and all vegetation disappeared. We flew over 1000 miles of desolation with nothing below except red and gray soil, some salt lake beds and a gas field.

We landed in Alice and was immediately attacked by swarms of small flies which are a constant in the Alice area. I took the shuttle A$10 ($6.11) to town and talked to Jack again as we passed about a 100 camels with one hump. Shelly checked me into room 27A for A$100 for two nights. She called my tour for tomorrow pickup at 5:15. She then called Darwin and made a hotel reservation for me. I walked 15 minutes to downtown Alice Springs in 99^o (37^oC) and flies. I stopped in Alice Springs Disposals (like a Sunny's Surplus) and bought a brimmed hat with head net for A$10. Walked further to an air conditioned mall with a Bi-Lo Supermarket where I bought a banana, nectarine, 200 grams of peanuts, 600 ml water and 250 milligrams Scotch Fingers cookies for A$4.65. Walked to the Outback Bar and Grill for a Coopers draft, desert kangaroo fillet, potato and salad for A$20.10 ($12.19). Kangaroo is similar in appearance texture and taste to beef but is darker, drier with no fat, a stronger flavor and a hint of gaminess. Alice is full of aborigines and not the best examples of this people. About half the stores are aborigine art, music or some other aspect of their culture. Showered and went to bed.

April 1, 2003 - Tuesday Hike Kings Canyon

Got up at 4:04 and packed up. Packed my day pack and sleeping bag to take on the trip. Left my hockey bag in the room and went downstairs at 4:45 to wait to be picked up at 5:15. Al Snook our guide was late arriving at 5:40. I was concerned there was a mix-up and he was looking for me at the Youth Hostel. After several stops in town we finally had everyone loaded after paying A$16.25 ($9.91) park entrance fee and headed out of town on Gap Road before turning right headed south on the A7 Stuart Highway.

We drove to Erldunda where we stopped and I got a banana, nectarine, orange juice, 600 ml milk, large bacon and cheese biscuit and a bacon and egg sandwich for A$10.10 ($6.17). Here we turned right and headed west on the Lassiter Highway before turning right through Wallara to Watarrka National Park and Kings Canyon. Saw a wild horse and camels.

We hiked up to the rim of Kings Canyon in temperatures up to 106^o (41^oC). We looked into the canyon and hiked around to the Garden of Eden with it's large pool of water. We returned and ate lunch of a ham sandwich with cheese, tomato, lettuce and a salad.

We returned to the Lassiter Highway and turned right. We stopped and took pictures of Donnor Mountain which many mistake for Ayers Rock. and a salt lake bed. It was getting close to sunset so we stopped again and climbed a rust brown sand dune to photograph Uluru (Ayers Rock) and the Olgas in the distance.

Got into Tulara about 8:30. We had tents on platforms and swags. A swag is a foam mattress in a heavy canvas case. Set up our beds outside under the stars. We had our own pavilion with a gas grill. We had barbecued small steaks, sausages, potatoes, rice with vegetables and salad. What a feast. Showered, shaved and to bed at 10:30. Our group of 22 is mostly English with about four Irish, four Danes and myself. Talked to Thomas Knudson and Tine Lindhard from the Jutland area of Denmark. They are a nice young couple who speak impeccable English. Tine lived in Bel Air, Maryland for a year or more. They are coming to the States in June.

April 2, 2003 - Wednesday Uluru (Ayers Rock) and the Olgas

Al Snook got us up at 4:45 and I ate a bowl of natural wheat cereal with some peaches. Packed up and took off for a Uluru sunrise about 7:00. There were many people there. Al took six of us down to climb Ayers Rock (largest monolith rock in the world) but it was closed due to wind. We went back for the sunrise then walked around Uluru 9 kilometers (5.6 miles). I arrived at the climb starting point about 8:20 and discovered the climb had been open from 7:30 to 8:00. What a disappointment. The group hiked a little more as Al explained the rock and the paintings significance to the aborigines.

Drove about 45 kilometers to the Olgas and hiked 3 kilometers up between two of them. The Olgas are a composite of three materials and are higher than Uluru. Rode back to Yulara for lunch of grilled chicken burgers, pasta salad, slaw and a sausage.

We then headed back for 5 ½ hours to Alice Springs. Saw a couple of dead cows beside the road that were shrinking. Saw a pair of 28s, birds with a bright green body, black wing tips and whose call sounds like 28. Stopped in Erldunda again for an orange juice, banana and apple for A$4.80.

Got back to Alice about 7:00 retrieved my hockey bag from storage and showered. At 8:15 I walked to Milanda's for a Tooheys Old Black Ale draft A$4.50 and pizza. The whole group was there. Talked to Stewart a young Englishman who made a difficult mountain climb over 20,000' in Bolivia, worked in information technology (IT) and is traveling on through Asia. I left at 9:50.

April 3, 2003 - Thursday Fly Alice Springs - Darwin, Northern Territory

Got up at 6:22 and ran through Alice Springs past the AFL pitch (field) stopping at an ANZ Bank ATM for A$100. Arranged airport shuttle for A$5 at 10:20. Showered. Drank a 275 ml orange juice for A$1.50. I have a couple of hours to relax. Sat downstairs by the lobby at a picnic table and drank a 600 ml milk for A$1.90. Talked to Shelly who checked me in 3 days ago. Went back to my room at 9:45 and packed my damp towel and shirt. Checked out at 10:00 and got my A$10 key deposit back. Bought 600 ml bottle of water and we left for the 15 minute drive to the airport in a van at 10:20.

Checked in and got my boarding pass in a very efficient process. Went through security and bought a large fruit cup for A$5.50. Spoke briefly with a young English couple from my trip to Uluru. Boarded Qantas flight 724 in seat 18A that departed Alice Springs in the Northern Territory at 12:30 flying north to Darwin on the coast in the Northern Territory arriving at 2:25.

Took the shuttle bus A$7.50 to the Value Inn at 50 Mitchell Street and checked into room 38 with air conditioning, a double bed and a single bed for A$59 ($36). My credit card is my room key, very slick. Walked down the street about ½ a block and called Wilderness Adventures for tomorrow pickup between 6:30 and 6:40. Called the Cairns Youth Hostel on the beach but they were full. Called 07 4051 0772 the Cairns Central Youth Hostel and booked a double room for April 7 and 8 at A$50 per night. Went to Chilli's and sent an e-mail for A$1.30. Walked a block to Shenanigan's for a pint of Kilkenny's Irish cream ale at $6 which was really good in the humid 88^o (31^oC). Walked about two blocks to Kitty O'Shea's Pub and Cafe for supper. I had a pint of Kilkenny's, water, salad, fries, barramundi (a local delicacy which is a firm white fish 3" by 5" by 3/4" thick) and a hot apple crumble with custard, kiwi fruit, strawberry and whipped cream for A$30.10 ($18.16). Everything was superb. I left A$3 in change for a tip.

April 4, 2003 - Friday Kakadu National Park

Got up at 5:24 and went next door for orange juice at A$3. Missed my tour so I wasn't picked up until 7:00. Our guide is Stewart Aldenhagen and we have Frank from Dusseldorf, Germany, Sarah from Stockholm, Sweden, James from the UK, Tamara and Karen from London.

It is 96^o (36^o C) as we drive east toward Jabaru in Kakadu National Park. We stopped and I got a bacon and egg sandwich and 1.5 liter water for A$7.50. Made another stop before entering the park and I paid A$16.25 ($9.91) entrance fee. We stopped for a boat ride in a billabong with Ted where we saw a 3 meter (9.8') and a 4 meter (13.1') saltwater crocodiles and many large eagles. Also saw a 4 meter fresh water crocodile. Saw many water birds. Spotted three lizards 2-3' long and a wild water buffalo.

Stopped at our campsite, set up our tents and had chicken sandwiches for lunch. Drove down highway 21, then off road for a while before hiking 3 kilometers to a very nice swimming hole near the base of the escarpment. A 3' iguana came down the bank and swam between two from our group. I hiked over to a second swimming hole nearby with a waterfall that was really pretty. Drove a while and hiked a 2 kilometer circuit with many aborigine paintings before stopping at the Bawali visitor center.

Returned to camp and drank some Toohey New cans of beer as we cooked beef fajitas on a campfire for supper in 88^o. We are camped at Matabanjbanjdju at 12^o 46' 00" south by 132^o 45' 19" east near a billabong. I had trouble sleeping as I sweated all night in 81^o (27^o C).

April 5, 2003 - Saturday Kakadu National Park

Got up at 6:12 and ate cereal for breakfast. Took down our tents and packed up. Drove to Nourlangie Rock where we hiked a few kilometers in a circuit. We saw a long thin green tree snake that climbed a tree rather quickly. Stopped in the Warradjan Cultural Center which was cool. Hiked another circuit climbing some high rocks overlooking the the grassy savanna where the movie "Crocodile Dundee" was filmed.

Drove back a long rough dusty dirt road and hiked to Gubara where we went swimming during the hottest part of the day. There were three levels of swimming holes so Frank and I climbed up to the higher two levels at the base of the escarpment. The top pool had a nice waterfall.

We got to Yurmikmik where we camped next to a running stream at dusk. We collected firewood during the day and started a fire to cook our barbecued sausage, chicken, ribs, potatoes, yams and salad over rice. There was another tour group nearby with a woman guide who Stew knew. She and some of her group came over to visit. I stayed up until 12:05 when everyone sang happy birthday to me. It cooled down so I slept well.

April 6, 2003 - Sunday Kakadu National Park and Back to Darwin

Got up at 6:30 and ate a cereal breakfast. Packed up and drove on south. We stopped for a 13 kilometer hike to Kurrundie Creek where we went swimming at the base of the escarpment. Frank and I climbed up to a higher pool but couldn't swim there as the pool had very steep rock sides with no way to climb down to the water. On the hike back we took a side trip to Motorcar Falls, a large pool with a high waterfalls into it. Stew showed us a cave and crack in the rock near the falls. Stew, Frank and I swam back in the cave several meters in the pitch black. Near the entrance we had to go under water to continue. Near the pool outlet was a large rock approaching the size of a house. We dove down and came up in a shaft in the middle of the rock allowing light in. This is a beautiful swimming hole. Stew packed in sandwiches, fruit and cookies for lunch.

We drove on south to near the South Park Entrance and back a short but very rough and rocky road for another swim in a stream with a nice waterfall. As we exited Kakadu National Park we saw fires on both sides of the road for several kilometers set by the park rangers. They are controlled burns to minimize the damage caused by fires during the dry season.

It is a 3 hour drive back to Darwin. We stopped and I had a Magnum bar with almonds for A$3. I checked into room 34 in the Value Inn at 50 Mitchell Street for A$59 ($35.72). I called to reserve an airport shuttle for 4:35 tomorrow. I cleaned up and walked to the Victoria Hotel for a free dinner of Hawaiian chicken, potato salad and slaw plus a Toohey's New draft for A$4.

April 7, 2003 - Monday Fly Darwin to Cairns, Queensland

Got up at 3:45 and drank 600 ml orange juice and ate a banana. The airport shuttle arrived early at 4:25 and cost A$7.50 for the 15 minute ride. I checked in by 4:55. Boarded Qantas flight 801 seat 5D which left Darwin at 6:00 flying over the Gulf of Carpentaria for 2:06 hours arriving in Cairns and 8:50 (30 minute time change).

Caught the airport shuttle A$7.50 to the Cairns Central Youth Hostel and checked into room 5 at A$100 for 2 nights plus a A$10 key deposit. Booked a barrier reef dive with Down Under Cruise and Dive for A$115 ($69.70) plus a A$5 reef tax payable tomorrow in cash. Walked to the shopping center across the street. Went to Bi-Lo and bought three plums for A$2.10. Stopped at an ATM and got A$80. Stopped in Garrick's Camera House and bought a disposable underwater camera for A$18.99 ($11.51). Walked to the pier where I will catch the boat tomorrow at 8:00. Sent e-mail #5 for A$3. Stopped in the Piranha Cafe for a prawn quesadilla A$9.50 and a small Carlton on tap A$3.25 for $13.75 ($7.73) with $1 tip. Stopped in Ice Rock for a macadamia nut ice cream cone for A$3. Got six A$1 coins and started laundry for A$3. Dry is A$3.

Cairns is a summer sea resort town. It is very neat, clean and well planned with a pedestrian only street in the center of town. It has street islands for palm and cyprus trees, neatly trimmed hedges and an outdoor theater shell for entertainment. Walked across the street to Bi-Lo and bought four blueberry muffins, a peach and nectarine for A$10.19 (A$6.13). Ate the peach and nectarine before walking to P. J. O'Brien's Pub for paella A$!8 and a pint of Kilkenny A$6 (totaling $14.55) eating in their sidewalk cafe.

Australians always say "no worry". They also say "ta" for thank you and sometimes add a "thank you". They say "gidday", "gudonya" and "cheers mite". They have morning and afternoon tea but often don't serve any tea.

Mostly young people are traveling with few Americans. Most are English, Germans Swedes, Danes, Italians and Dutch. Many are traveling with a boyfriend/girlfriend. Too many are pierced, tattooed, smoke, drink excessively, are in bad physical condition and listen to awful discordant music. All these activities are self destructive and have no redeeming value. Many have a sad story and life, are hopeless and are searching for a way to get by. It is so sad.

April 8, 2003 - Tuesday Scuba Dive the Great Barrier Reef

Got up at 6:04. I tried to drink the orange juice I bought but it was concentrated and too strong to drink. Ate a banana, two blueberry muffins and drank 600 ml milk. At 7:00 I walked 5 blocks to the pier arriving at 7:15. Hung around before boarding the Osprey V owned by Down Under Cruise and Dive at 7:45 with about 100 others.

We headed to the southern tip of Hastings Reef. Everyone was offered a free 10 minute dive to see if they liked it and could do it. Since I already signed up for a dive I got 40 minutes. I was in the first group of four with two young English blokes and a young English woman. Jessica was our instructor. We were taught to clear our masks of water, equalize the pressure on our ears and remove then replace our mouthpiece underwater then clear it. We started as a group with linked arms but soon were free to swim staying near the instructor. The young woman returned to the boat at this point. I had trouble descending so Jessica added a fifth 1.2 kilogram weight to my belt and let some air out of my diving vest. We dove to about 7 meters and stood on the sandy bottom. We picked up a 4" diameter black bowed tubular object that was very soft to the touch. We touched other soft plants swaying in the currents. We had pictures taken next to a very large blue fish that was friendly. We swam through a narrow crack in the reef and suddenly we were back at the boat.

I went snorkeling over the reef and saw a plethora of plants, coral and fish of every size, description and color as I did on the dive. I took 14 pictures in about 30 minutes. I returned to the boat for a buffet lunch of two sausages, fish, bread, potato salad, pasta salad and slaw. They also had steak and tossed green salad.

The ship moved to the north end of the large Hastings Reef. I took another dive for A$30 with the same two English blokes and another Englishman Paul. We went right down following Jessica. This area is even more spectacular. Jessica and one of the blokes briefly returned to the surface in the middle of the dive. I took 10 shots with my camera before returning to the boat.

I went out snorkeling taking my last three shots. I came back to the boat because I had no sunscreen on my back. I put on my wet suit and returned to the reef until they called me in. I bought two pictures of me scuba diving for A$30 ($18) as we returned to the pier at 5:00.

Called to arrange my airport shuttle for tomorrow pickup at 9:55. Went to Bi-Lo and bought three plums, nectarine, peach, banana, 600 ml milk, liter of orange juice and 600 ml water for A$7.03. Drank some orange juice and ate a plum, peach and nectarine before showering. Walked to Verdi's for bruschetta bread, gnocchi and prawns in a garlic sauce and a pint of Bodington's Irish Cream Ale for A$33 plus A$4 tip ($22.54).

April 9, 2003 - Wednesday Fly Cairns to Sydney

Got up at 6:16 and ran 50 minutes down Spence Street out on the piers where all the excursion boats tie up. I passed two yachts from Georgetown, Cayman Islands that were 42 running steps long or about 130' each. Ran down the Esplanade for over a mile as it curved around the beach waterfront. Returned and ran up the central street that is pedestrian only for several blocks and back to the youth hostel. Drank the remainder of the liter of orange juice, ate a banana and two blueberry muffins washed down with 600 ml milk. Also ate the two remaining plums. Showered and packed up before checking out at 9:20.

The airport shuttle A$7.50 arrived at 9:48. At 10:20 I checked into Virgin Blue flight 392 seat 22A departing Cairns at 13:45 and arriving in Sydney at 16:45. Bought The Australian A$1.20 and read about the war on Iraq. This is the first detailed news on the war that I have seen or heard.

Ran into Marcel Nooijen from Holland who was on the boat yesterday. I saved his camera from going overboard when he slipped on a wet deck. Marcel has a girlfriend in Sydney and is headed for Nepal on Friday to trek Annapurna. We were on the same flight and took the same train A$11 to Central Station in Sydney. We talked a lot and Marcel is thinking of immigrating to Australia for a year's trial.

Walked one block to the youth hostel and checked into room 407 for A$88 ($53.83) about 5:45. Walked to the New South Wales Bicycle Club offices at 209 Castlereigh Street and got stuck in the elevator. A man let me out so I walked to a phone booth and called 131008 to reserve a cab to the airport tomorrow. The operator was extremely rude, would not answer any questions just hung up on me. I walked to Encasa for a roll and butter, mixed salad, shrimp, potatoes bravos, mushrooms and a glass of house red wine for A$33. I walked back to the phone booth dialing the same number and got the same treatment from a different operator. I walked back to the youth hostel and a young lady gave me 131581 to call. I did and talked to a pleasant lady who listened to my requirements (station wagon for my bike box) and assured me the cab would be there at 10:00 a.m. tomorrow. I went to bed early so I can do an early run in the morning.

Sydney Central Youth Hostel, 11 Rawson Place, Sydney 2000, (02) 9281 9111

April 10, 2003 - Thursday Fly Sydney via LA & Denver to Baltimore

Got up at 5:56 and ran around Sydney Harbor and back to the youth hostel in 53 minutes. Bought 600 ml orange juice for A$2.90 and drank it. Shaved and showered then packed up.

Checked out at 8:20 and walked 6 blocks in a light rain to 209 Castlereigh Street and the NSW Bicycle Club offices on the second floor at 8:40. Waited until 9:00 and went upstairs with Matt to retrieve my boxed bike.

My station wagon taxi arrived precisely at 10:00 and we were off with the back gate open to the airport. My fare was A$26 so I gave the driver A$30.

I waited 20 minutes for the United windows to open and was promptly checked in through immigration and security by 10:55. Bought The Australian A$1.10 and a chicken wrap for $7.50 and then 600 ml water for A$2.20.

Boarded United flight 816 in seat 47J and left Sydney, Australia at 2:45p for 13:58 hour flight to Los Angeles arriving at 11:10 a.m. Checked through immigration and customs then boarded United flight 7487 in seat 21C departing Los Angeles at 12:45p for Denver arriving at 4:03p. Boarded United flight 1288 in seat 13D departing Denver at 6:20p for Baltimore arriving at 11:27p. Anne picked me up and we arrived home at 12:45 a.m. April 11.