BIKE PRAGUE TO BUDAPEST

On August 1, Barry & Carol Nelson, Pete Flaton and Dan & Anne McQueen flew from Dulles International Airport in Washington, D.C. to Prague, Czech Republic. We joined the Bike Tours 9 day bike ride from Prague through Slovakia to Budapest, Hungary. The participants included four other Americans, 41 British and four staff. The 450.1 mile route laid out by Mario Zvac from Bratislava, Slovakia took us along mostly back roads through scenic Czech, Slovakian and Hungarian villages. The riding was great however we did experience rain with two days particularly heavy. We managed to stay ahead of the worst flooding in over a 100 years and were not affected by it. We camped 5 nights mostly on lakes and were treated to fine food sampling local fare each night in a restaurant. I particularly liked the Czech beer and the Hungarian food highly seasoned with paprika. We enjoyed walking tours, the sights, exploring the historic old towns and the fine foods of Prague and Budapest. Carol and Anne particularly enjoyed the massive Roman baths in Budapest. Reluctantly we flew home August 16 from Budapest having learned and experienced much of the region.

August 1, 2002 Thursday - Fly to Frankfurt, Germany

I got up at 6:00 a.m. and ran my usual 5.1 miles. After breakfast I cleaned up and placed our bike boxes and luggage by the front door. I went out to buy a couple of last minute items and then stopped by Columbia Presbyterian Church to talk to Kathy Laws about some facility scheduling matters. Back home I took care of a few loose ends that needed attention while we are gone. I fiddled and waited making a big deal out of lunch eating and drinking everything in the refrigerator that would spoil.

Barry and Carol Nelson arrived in their Chevrolet van about 1:45. Barry and I loaded our bike boxes and luggage into the van in two minutes soaking our clothes in the process in the sweltering heat. We drove into Washington, D.C. to pick up their son Patrick who drove us to Dulles International Airport arriving about 3:15.

There was a substantial line but it moved quickly and we were checked in in short order. We are on a Boeing 777 seats 20E & 20F on United Airlines flight 916 departing at 5:25 for Frankfurt, Germany. Passing through security Anne was pulled aside to be scanned and her carryon luggage searched. We boarded a bus and was shuttled to terminal D. Gate 63 didn’t exist and I discovered I had looked at the Frankfurt to Prague boarding pass for the gate number. We got back on the bus to the main terminal and then boarded another bus to terminal B. They were already boarding the plane for our flight. On board there was a large group of college students from the South East Europe Youth Leadership Institute who had spent a month at Towson State University. About 6-8 had gone to the wrong terminal so we waited about 45 minutes. We taxied out to a long line of planes and we waited again before taking off at 7:06 an 1:41 late.

We flew the 4073 miles in 7:38. The plane has 10 seats across for each row in a 3-4-3 arrangement. Anne and I are seated in the middle two seats of the middle section, the most crowded and inconvenient seats on the plane. I was served a Bloody Mary mix, cheese and crackers, chicken, rice, roll, butter, salad and grapes. There was nothing notable about the food as it was typical airline food. I slept fitfully during the flight listening to the classical music sound track. It must have been a short track as I vaguely recall hearing the same thing 3-4 times.

August 2, 2002 Friday - Fly to Prague, Czech Republic

We were served some orange juice, milk, fruit cup, cereal mix, bread, butter and jam before landing in Frankfurt, Germany at 8:50.

Our connecting flight to Prague was long gone. A UA representative cheerfully met us and told us we were "booked" on a Lufthansa flight departing for Prague at 12:48 and sent us to the Lufthansa desk. The Lufthansa man said yes we were "booked" on the flight and waved us away. We called Bike Tours in Bath, England who made our airport taxi arrangements in Prague leaving a message about our dilemma with our new flight number and time.

We lounged around the terminal eating a bratwurst (excellent) and .5 liter lager bier for $7.40 receiving Euro coins for change. We went to check in for our 12:48 flight and a curt Lufthansa woman told us we were "booked" but the flight was full and we would not get on it. There was another Lufthansa flight at 2 something but it was also full. She finally told us there was a Czech flight at 6:00 with space on board and sent us out of the secure area to the Luftfhansa ticket desk. We had to go through German immigration having our passports stamped. We got boarding passes for Czech Airlines flight 537 departing at 6:06 for Prague on a Boeing 737 seats 19A and 19B. Carol called Bike Tours again with our new flight arrangements. They said we would have to pay the taxi for the first arrangement because they had come to the Prague airport. We were in time to cancel the 2nd taxi arrangement and the 3rd taxi would meet us at 7:00 in Prague. We went to the Frankfurt Airport Supermarket way down in the basement for lunch/dinner of 2 wursts, potatoes, fruit cup and an Orangina plus Anne's similar meal for E15.43 ($15.33).

We boarded the Czech Airline flight leaving early for the 55 minute flight to Prague landing at 7:10. We were served a very nice cheese sandwich, chocolate and water in flight.

We got our luggage and discovered that our bikes had come on the 12:48 Lufthansa flight. We stopped at an ATM to withdraw 3000Ck (Czech Koruna), with the exchange rate at 30.51Ck per dollar and a $.75 service fee bringing the total to $99.08. We were met by two drivers from the Taxi Sedop driving a van and a taxi. Pete Flaton had met us at Dulles so we had five people, bike boxes and luggage. The drivers worked hard for 30 minutes removing the van seats and packing our gear but they miraculously got everything loaded. We had a fast 45 minute ride through the Czech countryside on expressways to southeast Prague and the Opatov Hotel. We paid the drivers 3000Ck, 1100Ck for this morning, 1100Ck for this trip and 400Ck tip for each driver.

We checked into the Hotel Opatov room 205, U Chodovskeho hrbitova 2141, 149 00 Prague 4, Czech Republic, telephone: 00 420 2 795 1440 (outside Czech Republic), 02 795 1440 (inside Czech Republic) after 9:00. Despite being up for about 33 hours we decided to meet in the hotel lobby for a draft .5L Krusovice lager and glass of white wine for 64Ck ($2.12).

August 3, 2002 Saturday - Tour to Prague, Czech Republic

Got up at 6:20 a little tired but unable to sleep. Went outside to run and met Barry. We ran in the park next to the hotel which is a mounded mile long grassy area between the last stop Haje and the next to last stop Opatov on the Red line subway. The park is ringed by square block high rise apartment buildings barely visible in the thick fog. We run around the perimeter of the almost level park through both subway stations covering a distance of about 2.5 miles. It feels good to work out the stiffness from so long sitting on airplanes.

We walk downstairs to a buffet breakfast included in our room. I overindulge in orange juice, milk, scrambled eggs, sausage, fruit salad, many C shaped 1.5" diameter bread rolls with imbedded crystal salt and butter. We meet Peter Robinson whom we know from the Bike Tours 1997 Bordeaux to Barcelona ride.

The door entering our apartment is in the middle of a small kitchen area that runs the width of our apartment. On the left wall is a door to a small toilet stall and next to it a door to a small stall with a sink and shower. The shower is in a small tub raised about 6" with a shower nozzle on a hose. Straight ahead are two doors the left entering a room mostly empty but containing a small day bed and table. This room I use to store and assemble our bikes. The right door leads into the bedroom. The bedroom has two single beds placed together with heavy duvets and large pillows. There are two night stands, a small table with two chairs, a luggage shelves unit and a small TV in the corner. Both rooms have a large window that almost covers the entire outside wall.

The five of us and Peter Robinson walked to the Opatov subway station and buy 12Ck ($.40) tickets taking the Red line for 20-25 minutes to Muzeum the 9th stop. We emerge from the subway onto Winceslaus Square and walk down the wide tree lined Vaclavske boulevard to Old Town Square.

We met Marina from Entertaining Walks of Prague with a white umbrella under the Astronomical Clock at 10:00. Marina is a pretty tall thin young Jewish woman that is very knowledgeable and has an engaging manner of looking you in the eye and giving the illusion that she is talking to you alone. We paid 600Ck ($19.92) each for three two hour walking tours and a picture compact disc of Prague. Marina gave us a good history lesson and social understanding of the different eras as we walked around the Astronomical Clock, Old Town Square, Ungeldt, St Jacob's Church and the Estates Theater. Prague is a very musical city with about 30 classical music performances daily. Many famous composers lived in Prague most notably Mozart. We walked into the Jewish Quarter where we saw and learned about the Franz Kafka House, the Maisel and Pinkas Synagogues, the old Jewish cemetery, Jewish town hall, the Old-New Synagogue and the Spanish Synagogue.

It is getting very warm in the 80^os and sunny. We took a 40 minute break for lunch at Richard Hradek's Cafe Cafe on Rytirska street. I had ham, cheese, cucumber and lettuce on bread (like a small French bread) with mineral water which cost 280Ck ($9.30) including a 50Ck ($1.65) tip and Anne's meal.

We met Marina at 12:40 and walked across the 13th century Charles Bridge. Here we caught a street tram for two stops up the hill to Prague Castle for 8Ck ($.27) each. As we walked we had great views of the city of a thousand spires and castle gardens. We saw the oldest church in Prague with the Czech president's office, St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, the St George Basilica and the Golden Lane.

We walked back down the hill and bought a pint of raspberries from a street vendor for 45Ck ($1.49). As we boarded the trolley back to Charles bridge, Barry saw two gypsy women reaching into a woman's purse. He slapped the hand away, then told the woman what happened but she didn't understand anything. Two gypsy men started bating Barry with lewd and threatening remarks and gestures but he ignored them and we got off after one stop without incident. We walked around Kampa Island under Charles Bridge where we had an ice cream for 20Ck ($.67). We ran into Peter Robinson and saw Tom Creegan with Pat Persson in the park. We stopped at an ATM to withdraw 1000Ck (Czech Koruna), a mistake and then 3000Ck with the exchange rate at 30.45Ck per dollar and two $.75 service fees bringing the total to $132.79.

At 6:00 we met Amalia, a 21 year old Slovakian woman, under the Astronomical Clock and paid an additional 50Ck ($1.65) each because this tour cost 50Ck more than the other tours. On the tour was Carol & Barry Nelson, Pete Flaton, Anne McQueen, a British couple Gordon and girlfriend and Cathy a student from Ireland. We walked to the Rotta House near the Old Town Square and went downstairs to a restaurant then through a door and down more steps to a half round stone cellar. We were served a .31 liter Urquell dark pilsner. Amalia taught us a Slavic toast where you say nestravi (to your health), bang the lips of your glasses, then the bottoms, bang on the table and drink. Our next stop was in the U Spirku where I had a .5 liter Krusovice dark draft. Our last stop was in the Pivnice Skorepka where I had a .5 liter Krusovice mixed (light & dark beer). Amalia left and we all stayed for dinner. I had a garlic, mushroom, potato and cheese soup served in a dark bread loaf, pork, tangy semisweet red cabbage, pickled green cabbage, dumplings and 3 pancakes 2" diameter and .5" thick piled high with fresh sweet blueberries and whipped cream. Everything is excellent and the service is good. I charged the meal with Anne's meal on Mastercard at 454Ck ($14.60) plus 70Ck ($2.32) cash tip.

We walked back to Wincenslaus Square and caught the subway back to Opatov at 11:42 for 12Ck ($.40).

August 4, 2002 Sunday - Tour to Prague, Czech Republic

Got up at 6:35 and again met Barry as we ran our loop through the park in the clear cool morning air. The ugly apartment buildings left over from the Communist era were clearly visible. Returned to my apartment and assembled Anne's bike as she cleaned up.

We walked downstairs to breakfast and found it full with 30 British riders and four Bike Tours staff who arrived on the morning train from London. I was delighted to see Graham Chamberlain, Richard Cooper (bike mechanic) and Joanna Haylock (caterer) all of whom I knew from Bike Tour's 1997 Bordeaux to Barcelona and 2000 Ravenna to Rome bike rides. I met Dave Murray (courier) on this ride. Bike Tours contact information is: Bike Tours Limited; Victoria Works, Lambridge Mews, Larkhall; Bath BA1 6QE, UK; Tel: 44 1225 310859; Fax: 44 1225 480132; mail@biketours.co.uk ; www.biketours.co.uk ; Emergency: (00 44) 07884 494859 David Murray (courier); (00 44) 07884 494860 Rich Cooper (mechanic); Mario Zvac (courier); Joanna Haylock (caterer). I had milk, orange juice, 3 bread rolls, butter, cheese and watermelon.

Anne and Carol headed downtown while Barry, Pete and I stayed back to prepare for tomorrow's ride. I assembled my Trek 2120 sport touring bike with a 60cm carbon fiber frame, Shimano STI shifters with 53-42-32 front sprockets and 8 speed 11-28 rear cassette. The bike is old and a bit worn with 30-35k miles but still rides well with the piecemeal components replaced one at a time over the years. I flattened our corrugated plastic Crateworks bike boxes and strapped them together with the two harnesses for transport in the Bike Tours van. I discovered a 6-8" gash on the corner of each bike box where Frankfurt airport security tried to cut them open with a box knife instead of releasing the harness latches and easily opening the boxes by lifting the top. So much for airport security personnel intelligence. Fortunately the integrity of the boxes are not compromised. I went to Barry's room and helped him strap his two boxes together.

I cleaned up and Barry and I headed downtown a little before 12:00 on the subway to meet Carol and Anne at the Astronomical Clock. We were a little late for the 12:30 meeting time. We decided to walk to the Cafe Cafe again deje vous all over again for lunch. I had a ham, cheese, salami, egg, cucumber special sandwich, two .2 liter peach ice teas and blueberries, ice cream and whipped cream along with Anne's meal cost 508Ck ($16.06) on Mastercard. As we finished lunch on the sidewalk it started to rain lightly then very heavy with water running down the streets. We waited out the rain in the cafe until it cleared nicely. Because of the rain we missed linking up with Pete and roommate Angus Jameson at 1:30.

We walked around town to the Charles Bridge. Anne and I walked up the 134 steps in the tower on the bridge for some great views of Prague. It cost 30Ck ($1.00) each and I bought a good Prague map in the tower store for 39Ck ($1.29). We exited the tower in a light rain that slowly increased in intensity. We worked our way along the streets ducking between shops, doorways and overhangs to the Reykjavik cafe when the rain got pretty heavy. When stepped in and I had a .5 liter Krusovice mixed for 95Ck ($3.15) and Anne had a cappuccino for 45Ck ($1.65). It is obviously a tourist trap near Old Town Square but a nice port in a storm. We waited out the rain and decided to find a restaurant for dinner.

Although still spitting rain we ducked into a few restaurants until we settled on Restaurant Mucha on narrow Trichova Mustku street. It is named after a famous Czech artist who has a museum displaying his work in the city. The restaurant is large, airy and tactfully decorated with art work. I order a ham, duck and pork dinner with tangy semisweet red cabbage, pickled green cabbage, spinach, potato dumplings, carrot shavings, cucumbers and donuts with fresh blueberries, whipped cream and ice cream. My bill came to 820Ck ($26.76) including tip which I charged on Mastercard.

We returned to the Opatov Hotel on the subway for 12Ck ($.40). Bike Tours was providing dinner in the hotel. We had already eaten so we joined the rest in the dining room where I had two .31 liter bottles of Krusovice light for 35Ck ($1.16) each. We engaged in a conversation with Jill Stein (Glasgow), Evelyn Tiefenbrun (Glasgow), Tessa Fitzjohn (Bristol) and others sitting at the next table.

August 5, 2002 Monday - Bike Prague to Cesky Sternberk, Czech Republic

I'm up at 6:09 and out for a 3 mile run extending the route slightly. Back in the hotel for the buffet breakfast of orange juice, milk, muslix cereal and three 6" 1.5" diameter rolls with butter. I take our luggage, tent and bike boxes down to the Bike Tours van for transport. After pumping Anne and my bike tires we are all ready to go.

Barry, Carol, Pete, Anne and I bike from the hotel at 9:20 in pleasant weather but slightly overcast. We go along back streets and bike paths through housing projects with large block high rise apartments. We pass some ponds and pass through a deep steep banked muddy ditch with running water. We are soon in the country passing through Kreslice, Pitkovice, Uhrineves, Benice, Lipany, Ricany, Voderadska ulice, Otice, Vsechromy to Mnichovice at 16.7 miles at 11:24. I stop for 2 Eskymo pies and 2 nectarines for 42Ck ($1.39). Then it is on to Ondrejov at 23 miles.

We stop at the outdoor cafe Vinarna u Kycleru in Ondrejov under sunny skies and 75^o. A handwritten chalkboard has 4 or 5 menu items written on it. We can't read the letters or understand the words but we recognize gulas (goulash). We ask for gulas but the waitress says no and points to another item. We ordered 5 of them and waited for our surprise lunch. It turned out to be a plate of dumplings (like crust less bread), a little fatty ham and kidneys with some sauce. I ate the ham and dumplings with some sauce washing it down with water with gaz. Anne ate little or nothing but drank a Sprite. Our two meals, water and Sprite came to 130Ck ($4.32). We had a good laugh enjoying our experience as we continued on the route.

Many towns and villages have cobblestone streets that are quite rough for a bicycle. Occasionally there are stretches of cobblestone in the countryside. We passed through several nice pine forests. We biked through Chocerady, Sazawa, Talmberk, Rataje nad Sazavou, up a 3 km climb to Jeovice Podveky then a great downhill into Cesky Sternberk.

We bike into the Park Hotel at 3:50 after 6 hours and 30 minutes on the road. We biked 43.6 miles in 4:07:36 averaging 10.6 mph climbing 2900' and descending 2900' in 5 major climbs (elevation change of 200' or more).

I find my off loaded luggage and tent and set up the tent on the hotel lawn next to the vineyards. High on a large ridge above us sits a very large neat castle that is beautifully lit at night. A perfect setting for our 4:00 tea with bread, spreads, cookies (biscuits for our British friends) and sweet cakes under a large canopy prepared by Joanna Haylock. After a shower in one of the hotel rooms rented by Bike Tours Anne, Barry and I join David Brewer (veterinarian), Peter Speller and Roger Westwood on the hotel verandah for a drink and chat. It is pleasant with no bugs and a spectacular view of the nearby castle. I have a .5 liter Starorama for 16Ck ($.53) and Anne a glass of white wine for 30Ck ($1.00). The young waitress would not take a tip returning the money to me.

At 8:00 we entered the dining hall with harvest tables linked together in long rows. We sat near a corner of two rows with Lynda Conrad, Roger Harrison, Evelyn Tiefenbrun, Tessa Fitzjohn, Jill Stein, Roger Westwood, Pete Flaton, Carol & Barry Nelson and Tony & Mary Walduck. We were served potato soup, chicken with peaches and cheese, tangy semi sweet red cabbage, pickled green cabbage, lettuce, baby carrots, broccoli, French fried potatoes, peach apple nut strudel and gaz water. Everything was delicious.

We went to bed contented in the airy tent and slept well in the cool night air on the soft grassy lawn.

August 6, 2002 Tuesday - Bike Cesky Sternberk to Zironvnice, Czech Republic

We got up to a very wet tent and grass from the heavy dew. We packed up and struck the tent carrying our luggage and tent to the van then going to breakfast of muslix, fruit salad and milk.

Carol and Anne got a head start and lift over the first one or two climbs. Pete, Barry and I started at 9:00 in the cool damp air with overcast skies, comfortable in our biking shirts and shorts. We biked down to and across the river before climbing steeply past the castle for a long climb. After a downhill we had another long climb but not as steep. Our route took us through Radonice, Zdebvzeves, Sousice, Stechov, Dalkovice, Trhovy Stepanov, Dvbejovich, Sedmpany, Keblov, Stojetice and Krivosudov to Cechtice. Yesterday we were on yellow bike route 19 and continued on it today for a while. There are several bike routes with colored numbered signs.

We stopped in a store in Cechtice at 23 miles and bought three 6" hard rolls, cheese, cucumber, onion, tomato, two nectarines, two Danish sweet rolls and a liter of orange juice. We walked a half block to the park with benches in the corner of the roads junction to eat lunch in 68^o. Tessa, Graham, Roger W. and others joined us.

Back on our bikes we passed through Stare Prachnany, Mohelnice, Kresin Blaznov, Kresin Kramolin, Borenice at 50 km, Radejov, Horepnik, Boretice, Cizkov at 66 km, Nova Cerekev with an old synagogue, Prosec, Oberiste, Ustrasin at 75 km, Dra Dany, Castrov, Metanov and Zirovnice to the Autokemp Panistavka at 3:52. Without calibration my watch says we are at 2060' elevation with the barometer at 27.85".

We biked 59.4 miles in 5:13:10 averaging 11.4 mph climbing 4520' and descending 3870' in 8 climbs. It was a very hilly day. I set up the tent near the showers and toilets on the hard packed ground. The campground is crowded with vacationing Czech families and we are squeezed into a small cramped space with interlaced staked tent ropes. There is a small stream running into a pond. I shower in the women's (zeny) shower because I didn't know the difference using a square corrugated round token. Fortunately no one came in as the room was open with transparent shower curtains.

I went to tea under the canopy for cookies, peanut butter bread and cakes as it started raining lightly but slowly increasing in intensity. Bikers were drifting in and each was wetter than the previous rider. I talked with Ian Clifford. It started raining heavily with thunder and lightening filling the small stream and turning everything muddy.

We were bused to the Perla Restaurant in a hotel in Zirovnice. I lined up at the crowded bar for a .5 liter Urquell for 16Ck ($.53) and a glass of white wine for Anne at 40Ck ($1.33). We were served a cabbage and potato soup, rice, chop suey, cucumbers, tomatoes, red cabbage and a vanilla pudding on a vanilla cookie with whipped cream. We bused back to camp and our tents. It soon started raining heavily with loud thunder and bright lightening continuing all night.

Czechs in the countryside generally do not respond to a hello or wave but are nice to talk to when you can understand each other. There are few route numbers but only signs pointing to the next town.

August 7, 2002 Wednesday - Bike Zironvnice to Bitov, Czech Republic

We get up to a steady rain and it is dark and dreary. We go to breakfast of muslix, fruit salad and milk under the canopy in 58^o. We wait to take down our tents hoping the rain will stop. My tent has some water on the floor so our mattresses are wet and the sleeping bags and luggage have some wet spots. We mark the daily changes on our cue sheets. The rain finally lets up and we take our tents down and load the van. We bike out of camp at 9:37 in a light rain and continue southeast through Stojcin, Prosty, Panske, Dubenky, Studena at 6.2 miles, Sumrakov, Praskolesy, Dobra Voda (good water) to Krahulci where Pete's front tire flatted. The rain stopped and we fixed the tire before continuing on to Telc where we stopped for lunch.

Telc is a UNESCO world heritage town and very historic and scenic with a castle, cathedral and large town square. We locked the bikes and walked around the town in 62^o. I bought a klobasa (kielbasa) from a street vendor for 75Ck ($2.50) with bread and mustard that was very good. Obviously the vendor saw this dumb American tourist coming as I noticed a large sign with "klobasa 30Ck" as I walked away. We walked inside a cafe where everyone had coffee and I ate an ice cream bar for 18Ck ($.60).

We started biking again out of Telc through Zvolenovice, Nova Rise at 35 km, and started to experience light rain and see lightening ahead. Jonny Tooth asked to ride with me because he didn't like the lightening which he did into Krasonice at 40 km and the rain increasing. I left Jonny with his father Nigel and caught up with Barry and Pete as the rain turned to a deluge as we biked through Kninice to Budec where we stopped in a bus shelter to wait for the rain to let up.

Richard passed in the van with Carol and Anne inside. We soon followed the van as the rain let up some and I had a rear tire puncture on the first big hill outside of Budec. It took a long time to fix as I inserted a leaky tube and had to replace it with a 2nd tube. It started raining very hard as I bent over fixing the tire. We passed long stretches of road with sand, gravel, 2-3" rocks and water across the road. At one spot the whole field above us to the right and below us to the left was flooded with brown muddy water requiring us to ride through 10 yards of 3-4" deep water across the road.

We continued through Chotebudice at 48 km, Jemnice at 52 km, Jiratice with the rain letting up, Police at 61 km where we spotted Ultan Doyle, Vysocany to Campsite Bitov at 3:40. Campsite Bitov at 1370' elevation is in a valley at the end of an arm of a big lake probably created by damming a river.

We biked 45.6 miles in 3:34:07 averaging 12.8 mph climbing 2750' and descending 3480' in 6 climbs. It is 60^o with the barometer at 28.55". Dave Murray took Carol and Anne in a van to Bitov to see about a hotel room. Barry, Pete and I went to the restaurant and Barry bought me a .5 liter Gambrinus beer.

Dave, Carol and Anne returned so we loaded our luggage in the van and headed up the hill to the town of Bitov. We rented 2 bedrooms, a bath and kitchen/dining area in the Chata na Bitove for 600Ck ($19.92) per bedroom. The landlady is quite nice and speaks a little English. The grounds are well landscaped and she is into gardening especially flowers. The grounds are entirely fenced in with a large iron gate. We needed 3 keys, one for the gate, the front door and our room.

Mario Zvac returned for us at 7:30 and took us back to Campsite Bitov restaurant for supper. We sat with Carol and Barry Nelson, Pete Flaton and Geraldine Goldsmith from Manchester, UK. Gerry is a good cyclist and has done some time trials. We were served lentil soup with garlic and curry, pork schnitzel, potatoes and cold peas, corn, red cabbage, green cabbage, cucumbers, carrots and watermelon. We had a .5 liter Gambrinus, 2 white wines and a coffee for 88Ck ($2.92) plus a 10Ck ($.33) tip. Mario returned us to Chata na Bitove.

August 8, 2002 Thursday - Bike Bitov to Pasohlavky, Czech Republic

Mario picked us up at 7:30 and returned us and our luggage to Campsite Bitov. I ate muslix, fruit salad and milk for breakfast. It is 69^o with overcast skies and very comfortable.

Anne and Carol got a lift out of the hole we were in so Barry, Pete and I biked from camp at 9:42 starting with a pretty long climb. We biked through Lancov, Vranov at 12 km, Dyji, over a hydroelectric dam, by a pretty bridge onto a bike path with a short steep hill, through Lesna, Horni Breckov, Milicovice, Olbramkostel, Zerutky at 27 km, Plenkovice, Unanov at 35.5 km to Tvorhraz.

We passed many wheat fields and a lot of large modern farm equipment. The soil looks rich and fertile. We would see field corn, sunflowers, tobacco and other crops during our trip through 3 countries. Czech roads are mostly blacktop and range from very poor to very good.

We stopped in a store in Tvorihaz and bought 3 hard 6" rolls, onion, cucumber and cheese for sandwiches, a liter of orange juice, potato chips and a large chocolate bar with peanuts for 102.40Ck ($3.40). It is 86^o and sunny so we walk to the river and down a dirt track 30 yards to a spot over the river dam for a picnic lunch. Trevor White (Rugby) and Kelly Sapsford are across the river eating, about 10 of our crew are on the bridge eating and Peter Speller and Martin Cresdee join us 5 for lunch.

Back on our bikes we pass through Zerotice, Kyjovice at 48 km, Prosimerice, Vitonice, Hosteradice, Miroslav at 62 km, Nadrazni Ulice, Damnice, Jirice, u Miroslavi, Troskotovice and Vlasatice at 77.6 km to 750' elevation Autokemp ATC Merkur Pasohlavky at 86 km at 3:30. The campground is very nice on a large lake but very crowded.

We biked 54.3 miles in 4:02:18 averaging 13.4 mph climbing 1890' and descending 2440' in 3 climbs. The terrain is flattening out some. Set up our tent close to the water. Barry, Pete and I had a .5 liter Starobrno draft for 16Ck ($.53) each.

It's time to head for the sprchy (shower). I am determined to avoid the women's shower so I confidently turn in at the door with muzi (men) on it and note that everyone else in the room is of the same gender. Very good. A little coin box on the left inside the door says it will give you 12 seconds in a shower for 1Ck. I deposit my 20Ck ($.67) coin and push the enter button. The small window screen flashes sprchy #2 4 min. I stride to the small anteroom with a big 2 over it, a small bench and clothes hooks. I undress and step into the shower with soap and shampoo in hand. Nice hot water begins to flow from the shower head. I spot a small sensor behind me over the door. When I step out to return the shampoo or soap the water stops. Sometimes as I move around I get to one side or the other where the eye can't see me and the water stops. With about 30 seconds left a red light starts flashing next to the eye. When my time is up the water stops and the red light stays on.

At 7:30 we assembled in the campground restaurant for dinner. I bought Dave Murray, Richard, Joanna and Mario a beer because they have been helping us so much. I also had a .5 liter Starobrno, 2 gas waters and Anne had a white wine. My bill was 208Ck ($6.91) because there was a 20Ck ($.67) deposit on each glass. We were served a carrot and pepper bisque soup, chicken stuffed with ham, peppers & mushrooms, red cabbage, green cabbage, cucumbers and French fried potatoes.

I slept well despite the constant traffic of loud young people and a loud constant snorer in the tent next to me.

August 9, 2002 Friday - Bike Pasohlavky to Straznice, Czech Republic

Got up and packed up before heading for the tent canopy and breakfast of muslix and fruit salad. It is a balmy 77^o with the barometer at 29.20" and overcast skies.

Anne and Carol got their usual head start. Pete, Barry and I biked from camp at 9:13. The terrain started out pretty flat as we biked through Ivan, Vranovice, Pohorlice and Velke Nemcice at 16.5 km. We came across Nigel & Jacky Tooth and son Jonathan beside the road with a flat tire. The same tire was punctured yesterday. I examined the tire and found a bulge on the inside of the tire. Probing the spot with a knife I dug out a small piece of glass. We bike on through Krepice, Nikolcice, Diviaky, Martincice, Velke Hosteradky at 37 km and Damborice to Nasedlovice at 46.5 km.

We had caught Carol and Anne and passed them agreeing to stop in Nasedlovice for lunch. We decided to stop in the Coop Store and buy lunch before Anne and Carol arrived. I bought a large braided bread roll with rye, cheese, tomato, citrus water (something like a light lemonade), onion, chocolate bar with nuts, potato chips, banana and nectarine for 69.40Ck ($2.30). We wait but don't see Carol and Anne so we decide to eat. They may have passed us while we were in the store. It is 82^o and sunny.

We decide they have passed us so we bike on through Drazuvky at 53 km to Veterov at 55.2 km. We see Carol and Anne's bikes at a small cafe on the left so we stop for a .5 liter Starobrno draft for 12Ck ($.40). The bartender speaks English and is very friendly.

Carol and Anne are picked up by the van so Pete, Barry and I finished our beer and resumed the 3 km climb as a front came through with wind and rain dropping the temperature to 69^o. We biked through Sobulky, Kyjov at 63.5 km, Zadovice at 70 km. We biked through water across the road and continued through Zeravice, Temice at 77 km and Bzenec with its many wine cellars burrowed into the hillside lining the left side of the road. Outside of town we passed a Czech on a fold up bike with small wheels loaded with a water bottle and book. He soon caught us and rode with us for several miles. His name is Pavel from Brno. He is a Christian who taught himself English by reading the English language Bible he carries on his bike. He said he built his bike from scrap parts and was traveling on his guts. Quite a remarkable character. We biked into the 860' elevation Autokempink Straznice (tel:0631 332 037) at 3:19 with the sun shining drying everything in a comfortable 69^o and the barometer at 29.10".

We biked 58.0 miles in 4:27:25 averaging 12.7 mph climbing 2580' and descending 2510' in 6 climbs. We had more hills as the day progressed.

The camp is a very large flat field of grass so I set up my tent on the edge next to a tree line for a drying line. I joined the tea crowd after 4:00 and consumed an egg salad sandwich half, a peanut butter sandwich half and assorted sweets with my tea. I talked with Richard Hill from Shrewsbury, UK. A large Slovakian bike group biked into camp and set up across the field from us.

At 7:30 Anne and I took a long walk to the opposite side of the campground to the restaurant for dinner. We were early so I had a .5 liter draft for 13Ck ($.43) and Anne bought a liter bottle of white wine for 80Ck ($2.66). Although the wine is okay, no one considers it good like the cheap wines in France and Italy. We were served lentil soup, red cabbage, pork, dumplings and a custard cake roll at 8:00.

August 10, 2002 Saturday - Bike Straznice, Czech Republic to Piest'any, Slovakia

It was another good sleeping night on the soft flat ground in the quiet cool night air. It rained lightly at 5:00 but my tent was dry when I got up at 6:43. After packing up and carrying luggage and tent to the van I ate some muslix and fruit salad under the canopy. After copying the daily route changes we were ready to go in the comfortable 69^o under overcast skies and breezy.

Carol and Anne left early. Pete, Barry and I biked from camp at 8:44 and immediately met Carol returning to camp. She had fallen and needed some minor repairs to her bike. We were quickly underway again biking 6 km into Tvarozna Lhota and the street market. We bought 2 nectarines, 2 bananas, grapes, bread rolls, cheese, 2 raspberry drinks (about ½ pint), tomatoes and onion for 49.50Ck ($1.64).

We biked on through Knezedub, Hroznova Lhota at 13 km, Tasov and Hruba Vrbka at 21 km. We are in fairly open country and fighting about a 15 mph wind gusting to about 25 mph and mostly a head wind out of slightly south of east at 105^o. We would have the wind most of the day. We bike up a 1.5 km climb with a historic windmill on top encountering the large Slovakian cycling group. Then it's on to











the Czech/Slovak border at 28 km or 17.8 miles according to my cyclometer at 11:24. The Czechs stamp my passport as leaving and at the next window Slovakia stamp it as entering. I enter the exchange building forgetting my Czech coins I exchange 1050Ck paper money at 1.2Sk (Slovakian korunas) per Ck for 1220Sk. Underway again we pass through Vrbovce Sance, up a 3 km 17% grade climb and Brestovec Kopanky into Myjava at 38 km or 26 miles on my cyclometer.

As we enter town and turn right on the wide main street we stop for lunch with many others from our group. We sit on benches surrounded by small trees and flower boxes. I eat 2 bread rolls filled with cheese, onion, tomato and cucumber with a raspberry drink followed by a nectarine.

Back on our bikes we climb 1.5 km out of town where we see the Slovak bike group again. We bike through Patianka, Priepasne, up a 2 km climb, through Priepasne Dlhy Vrsok, Poky Lavec c. Pagacov, Boorov, Prasnik at 60 km, Vrbove at 64 km, Trebatice and Piestany to 840' elevation Camping Lodenice (tel: 00 421 838 76 260 93) at 5:05 and the barometer at 29.10".

We biked 48.3 miles in 4:40:54 averaging 10.3 mph climbing 2850' and descending 2870' in 4 climbs.

The campground is quite large and near the river. We are in a large pitted grassy field surrounded by a high board fence. Dave Murray appropriately dubbed our home Fort Stockade. I set up our tent behind one of the few trees a large willow like tree and string a long sloping drying line. The showers are plentiful, free and cold (my only cold shower of the trip)! I managed to finish without having my heart restarted. We had our normal afternoon tea under the canopy.

We walked to the Hotel Sorea Slnava for 7:30 dinner. We could see the hotel through the trees from our camp site a short 200 yards away but we had to walk around so it was about a mile. We were served in a huge banquet room with just our group of 54 in it. I had a .5 liter Topvar dark & light draft for 32Sk ($.89) and Anne had two rum & cokes for 58Sk ($1.60) each. Dinner was carrot, pea, cauliflower and cabbage soup, chicken with ham & cheese, rice, French fried potatoes, red cabbage, green cabbage and yellow & chocolate cake. We walked back to camp in the dark.

Regional housing construction is almost universally orange tiled roofs with brick or tile construction covered with stucco.

August 11, 2002 Sunday - Bike Piest'any to Topol'clanky, Slovakia

It was breezy all night and I slept well in the fresh air on the soft grassy ground getting up at 6:40. I packed up and took down the tent, loading luggage and tent on the van. Ate breakfast of muslix and fruit salad. It is 75^o with the barometer at 28.80". Anne and Carol do not bike today as Carol has to be at the hotel to meet her cousin Ingrid at 12:30.

Pete, Barry and I bike from camp at 9:19 along the river with a strong head wind. We bike through Ratnovice, up a 1.5 km climb, through Svrbice at 12 km, Salgovce, Ardanovce, Radosinp Nitrianska Blatnica at 17 km, Krtkovce, Hajna Nova Ves, Horne Stitare, Urmince, Chabrany at 32 km, Nitrianska Steda, Solcany, Bosany at 47 km, Klatova Nova Ves at 52 km and Jeskova Ves.

Here we turned right for about a kilometer along a country road to a restaurant nestled on the left below the road in the trees, probably part of an old estate. There is a large patio with many tables beside the restaurant. It starts to sprinkle rain so we move around the side under a gazebo. I am with Sid Gorman, Martin Kerans, Tom Luxford, Vicky Cuddy and Gerry Goldsmith, Barry and Pete. The waiter speaks no English and we are having difficulty ordering until a pretty young blond woman dining under the gazebo with her family intervenes. Soon I am feasting on .31 liter Topvar, mineral water, chicken noodle soup and dumplings with bacon & goat cheese for 160Sk ($4.43) including tip. As we left the patio was packed with diners including many locals and most of our group. It is sunny and no rain.

Pete, Barry and I return to the route and continue on to the 59 km point where we start a 3.5 km climb. Barry had taken off by this time realizing that Carol's cousin Ingrid from Bratislava was meeting them in the hotel about 12:30. Pete and I topped the mountain and started a fast and easy glide for several miles down through Skycov to Topolcianky at 73 km arriving at 1190' elevation Hotel Zamok (tel:00 421 37 630 1111) at 3:45 with the barometer at 28.75".

We biked 48.1 miles in 3:48:31 averaging 12.6 mph climbing 2580' and descending 2360' in 2 climbs.

Hotel Zamok is a large renaissance chateau with a storied past where kings resided and set in a park like setting. The place is beautiful with a large courtyard and fountain in the center with flowers and hedges. Anne has already checked us into room 109 up one floor off a verandah. The room is huge with a large window in the 3' thick wall, 15' ceiling, a large bathroom and ante room. I clean up and go down to the courtyard about 4:30 for tea. It starts raining off and on for the rest of the evening, sometimes light and sometimes heavy.

We congregate in the pub with most of the group and Carol's cousin Ingrid to talk and socialize for an hour or so. I have a .5 liter Kelt for 28Sk ($.77) and then a .5 liter Saris (pronounced Sharish) for 18Sk ($.50). We walk across the courtyard about 8:00 to the hotel restaurant for dinner. We are served soup, beef, pork, rice with peas, slaw and mineral water.

August 12, 2002 Monday - Bike Topol'clanky, Slovakia to Esztergom, Hungary

Packed up and carried luggage to the van on the way to 8:00 breakfast. We are served tea, milk, bowl of muslix, a plate with ham, cheese & pepper on it and get a roll & bread from a basket on the table.

Carol, Barry, Pete, Anne and I bike from the hotel at 9:10 in 64^o and a light rain. The rain picked up as we biked through Machulince, Zitavany, Prilepska Ulka, Male Vozokany at 16 km, Zlate Moravce, Cierne Klacany and Velke Vozokany where we were greeted by blaring loudspeakers spaced through the village playing martial music and then a lady speaking quickly and loudly. We saw this in the Czech Republic as well. We saw speakers in the next couple of villages but heard nothing as we biked through Male Vozokany at 16 km, Nemcinany, Male Kozmalovce, Tlmace, Rybnik, Cajkov, Hronske, Kosihy, Podluzany, Krskany and Levice Kalinciakovo.

Carol bikes slower than Anne so Pete and I would bike ahead with Anne then wait until Carol caught up. Mario had designated a restaurant for our lunch stop so Pete, Anne and I turned right off the route in Levice Kalinciakovo in the rain for 2 km and up a hill to the Kolinda restaurant at 12:20. Many from our group were already there and many more followed us in. We were lucky to get the last table back in the corner not realizing there were tables upstairs on the balcony. Our waitress was very good and efficient serving virtually the entire restaurant. I had chicken noodle soup with bread, a large potato pancake stuffed with pork in a paprika sauce with red cabbage, green cabbage, carrots and beets on the side and a .5 liter Krusovice for 400Sk ($11.07) including Anne's similar meal and a good tip.

Back out in the rain we biked down the hill to the route and continued on through Levice Maly Kiar, Hontiaska Vrbica, Zbrojniky, Kukucinov Maly Pesek and Sikenica Velky Pesek at 67 km. Pete had abandoned us by this time trying to cut short the ride in the cold rain. Anne and I sloshed on in the rain with Eric and Moira Bolingbroke, Graham and many others through Sikenica Trhyna, Sakov at 75 km, Male Ludince at 78 km, Zalaba at 84 km, Sikencika, Pavlova at 90 km, Mala nad Hronom at 96 km, Kamenica nad Hronom, crossed the Hron River, then through Sturovo at 104 km to the Danube River bridge and border control at 5:05.

There was a long line of cars and trucks in both directions which we bypassed going to the pedestrian gate. The first window was the Slovak control where they stamped my passport as exiting and then the Hungarian window where they stamped my passport as entering. We crossed the bridge into Esztergom, Hungary and stopped in a money exchange. I exchanged $20 at 245Hf Hungarian forints per dollar for 4900Hf figuring it would be enough until I found an ATM. I also exchanged 150Sk at 5.8Hf per Sk for 700Hf ($2.86). We circled under the bridge to 830' elevation Gran Camping und Bungalow at 5:15 with the barometer at 29.10".

We biked 68.7 miles in 6:08:00 averaging 11.2 mph climbing 2200' and descending 2580' in 3 climbs.

We went straight to tea and various sweets as the rain finally stopped. Carol had made hotel reservations at the Szalma Panzio next to the campground. We loaded our luggage on the van and walked to the hotel checking into room 5. Everyone stayed in the hotel or campground cabins except Alex Farran who camped. Richard delivered everyone's luggage to the hotel.

At 7:30 we walked to the campground restaurant for dinner. There were not enough tables for our group and many tables were occupied by locals so more people had to wait until the locals vacated. Fortunately we got a table and doubled up around it. I had two .5 liter Soproni drafts at 300Hf ($1.22) each and a liter bottle of white wine for 1200Hf ($4.90). We were served an outstanding potato soup, spaghetti with meat sauce and a jelly bread. The staff handed out Bike Tours T-shirts. I had one of only two keys to the hotel front door locked at 8:00 so we went back to the hotel in large groups.

August 13, 2002 Tuesday - Bike Esztergorm to Budapest, Hungary

I got up and walked downtown with Barry to a bank ATM and withdrew 25,000Hf at 247.4Hf per $ for $101.05 plus a $.75 fee. We stopped in some fruit and vegetable stores that had some beautiful produce. I bought a large ripe peach for pennies. We ate breakfast at 7:30 in the Szalma Panzio restaurant across the street from the hotel. The buffet had scrambled eggs (excellent), 3 rolls, butter, jelly, hot milk, cheese and tomato. We paid 6000Hf ($24.49) for our room and breakfast. We left our luggage in the hotel lobby for pickup and walked to the campground.

It is 64^o at 9:26 as Barry, Anne and I biked from the campground. Pete got a late start. We biked through town past some road construction and into the Ipola-Duna national park. Barry pulled away and then Anne pulled away as I made two brief stops. I started up the 7 km climb and passed Anne in a group of riders including Graham, the Hamilton-Jones and the Tooth family. I told Anne I would wait for her at the top which was our normal practice. I caught Barry after about 3 km and we climbed to the top in the cold damp fog at 10:41 after 9.84 miles.

We put on our jackets zipping them up and waited. Soon others started topping the mountain including Martin, Tom, Trevor, Kelly, Eric & Moira. They told me Anne had a flat tire. I debated with myself and finally told Barry to go on as I headed back down the mountain. I descended .4 mile and met Graham coming up. He told me he fixed Anne's tire but the sidewall was destroyed so they called Richard to pick her up. At this time Richard passed us with Anne in the van. Graham and I biked to the top where Richard replaced Anne's tire. Mario arrived with Carol in the car and soon Pete came up. Pete and Carol took off down the mountain.

Anne and I soon followed racing down the mountain through Pilissentkerest and Pomaz at 31 km into Szentendre at 36 km. We teamed up with the Bolingbrokes and others winding through back streets and a bike path to our meeting place across the street from the light rail station at 12:20.

We biked 24.1 miles in 2:09:17 averaging 11.2 mph climbing 1820' and descending 1850' in 1 climb.

We assembled our bike boxes on the street and packed our bikes in them removing the pedals, handlebars, seat and wheels then loaded them on the van. Pete, Barry and I walked down the street and followed a large group of Brits into the Mathias Rex an underground restaurant. Ian joined us at our table. I had two .5 liter Gosser drafts, pheasant hunter soup and wild boar in a wine sauce with dumplings, tomato and lettuce for 4000Hf ($16.19) including tip. Everything was excellent. We returned to the station at 4:00 in 57^o with the barometer at 29.30".

We road the train about half an hour into Budapest picking up Mario on the way. We transferred to a Yellow line subway and then a Blue line subway for a 5 minute walk to our hotel about 6:00.

We checked into the Mercure Budapest Duna room 118 in 57^o, the barometer at 29.30" at 640' elevation. The room is moderate sized but airy, modern and clean. At 7:30 we walk as a group for 10 minutes to the Montana Pub a very large underground restaurant. Anne and I sit with Mario and Dave Murray. Mario grew up in communist Czechoslovakia, Dave in the liberal UK and I with my department of defense intelligence background, we spent an interesting and educational evening in discussion over dinner. I had a .31 liter draft beer, noodle soup, dumplings with onions, chicken, potato cakes and a cake fruit cup. Anne and I walked back to our hotel.

August 14, 2002 Wednesday - Tour Budapest, Hungary

We ate a buffet breakfast in the hotel. There is a large selection but I had milk, cereal, 3 rolls, butter, jelly, hard egg, fruit salad and cheese.

Pete, Carol, Barry, Anne and I walked across the street and caught a trolley north along the Danube River for 106Hf ($.43). We got off at the Szechenyi Lanchid Bridge and walked across it. We took the Budavari Siklo incline up to the Royal Palace for 450Hf ($1.82) each. We walked around the Royal Palace, Buda Castle with it's great overlooks of the city, museums and library.

We walked into old town Buda stopping in Tarnok Kavezo on Tarnok utra for lunch. I had goulash 760Hf ($3.08), ice tea 300Hf ($1.21) and apple strudel 360Hf ($1.46) and with Anne's meal my bill was 3210Hf ($13.00).

We walked back down the hill across the bridge into Pest and caught the trolley back to the hotel. Anne and I walked down the street to an ATM where I withdrew 25,000Hf at 247.6Hf per $ for $100.98 plus $.75 fee. We stopped in a shop where Anne had a coke and I bought a chocolate bar for 448Hf ($1.81).

Two taxis picked us up at the hotel for 1600Hf ($6.48) per person and took us to the meeting place for the two hour City Tour bus tour for 3000Hf ($12.15) per person. We visited many places in the city including the Royal Palace, the Citadel with the statue of liberty and the Houses of Parliament.

We walked towards our hotel to the Karpatia restaurant. It is quite large and fancy with good food. I had two .31 litre Dreher drafts, mineral water, veal potatoes, cabbage, goulash and a pickle with small poppy seed, cherry and apple strudels for 13,440Hf ($54.41) including tip and Anne's meal on Mastercard. Everything was very good. We finished the day walking back to the hotel along Vaci utra a pedestrian only street and meeting a group of about 10 Brits from our group having supper.

August 15, 2002 Thursday - Tour Budapest, Hungary

Went downstairs to the buffet breakfast of cereal, milk, scrambled eggs, 3 rolls, butter, ham, watermelon, cantaloupe and orange juice.

Anne went to the massive Roman baths in a park with Carol, Dave Murray, Vicky Cuddy, Gerry Goldsmith, Janice Bennett and xx.

Pete, Barry, Graham and I walked to Market Hall a massive indoor market about a city block in size. There are hundreds of stalls selling everything. I was particularly impressed with the grocery stalls full of fresh produce of fruit, vegetable and herbs. The meat stalls were equally impressive with abundant fresh pork, beef, chicken, lamb and of course sausages galore. I bought a big bag of saffron for 500Hf ($2.02) which would cost about $50 in the USA. The next stall had the same saffron bag for 400Hf. At a bakery stall loaded with fresh bread and rolls I bought and consumed 2 chocolate tipped crescent shortbread cookies for 69Hf ($.28).

Graham headed back to the hotel as Pete, Barry and I walked the back streets of the Etterem district of the Pest side of Budapest. Walking down the Vaci utra (street) we came to the Cafe Pan where our British friends had dinner last night. We stopped for lunch. I had a .5 liter Dreher draft for 600Hf ($2.43), goulash and bread, weiner schnitzel, French fried potatoes, tomatoes and lettuce for 1500Hf ($6.07) and after a 12% service charge was added my bill came to 2350Hf ($9.51). We walked back to the hotel through Market Hall located at the end of Vaci utra. We stopped at the same bakery stall and I bought crescent roll filled with sweet nuts for 80Hf ($.32).

The hotel lobby was crowded with the British getting ready to catch their train back to London at 2:00. Tom Creegan and Pat Persson were going with them as Tom was planning to bike from Passau, Germany along the Danube River to Vienna, Austria. I'm not sure what their plans are now due to the severe flooding of the Danube. We said our last good-byes to many in the group and waited for them to remove their luggage piled high in front of our bike boxes in the storage room.

They left promptly at 2:00 and we retrieved our bicycles taking them to our rooms up the elevators. I repacked both bike boxes removing wet things and inserting our tent and other biking gear along with the bike box padding and small gear bags. The bike box harnesses were put on tightly without folds and with labels plainly visible on top and ready for flight.

I took a walk down the street to a market and bought a chocolate covered ice cream bar on a stick and a bag of pistachios for 470Hf ($1.90). I consumed my purchases as I walked to the Danube to check on it's flood level and to take some pictures.

At 6:30 everyone was back from their days activities so Pete, Carol, Barry, Anne and I walked up the Vaci utra to the Ristorante Rocco for our last supper. I had a .5 liter Paulaner (German bier), salad, mashed potatoes, chicken with mushrooms & onions, and crepes with peaches & raspberry sauce. Anne had 2 glasses of rose wine, a salad, pork cutlet with potatoes and the traditional Sasca cake. Our bill including a service charge was 9870Hf ($39.96).

August 16, 2002 Friday - Fly Budapest via Frankfurt to Washington, D C

I got up about 5:30, showered and packed up. I took both bike boxes and luggage to the lobby by the front door. I waited a minute or two for the buffet to open at 6:30. I had orange juice, milk, scrambled eggs (they are so good), 3 rolls, butter, cheese, ham and a banana.

The Fosped Teher Taxi Ltd truck arranged by Allison at Bike Tours arrived at 7:15 as scheduled. We helped the driver load our bikes and luggage and we were ready to go about 7:35. Our agreement was that the truck would cost 12,000Hf cash for all 5 of us or 12,000/247Hf/$=$48.58. I understand we were charged 10,000Hf ($40.49) plus a tip. The hotel called two taxis which arrived before the truck. Pete rode in the truck and the Nelsons and McQueens in separate taxis. We all arrived at the airport about the same time after a 25 minute ride. I tipped our driver 500Hf ($2.02) which was the only Hungarian paper money I had left. The hotel charged Carol's Visa 10,080Hf ($40.81) for the 2 taxis.

Everything went as planned as we flew Lufthansa flight 3477 departing Budapest (BUD) at 10:20a and arriving in Frankfurt (FRA) at 12:05p. We had an in-flight drink and snack. We flew Lufthansa flight 418 departing Frankfurt (FRA) at 1:10p arriving at Washington, D.C. Dulles International Airport (IAD) at 3:45p.

We passed through immigration and the agent was actually friendly welcoming us home and chatting a bit. We claimed our bikes and luggage and walked through customs surrendering the customs form we filled out. The Nelson's son Patrick was waiting and we walked out into the steamy Washington weather at 90^o+ with 90%⁺ humidity. We crossed the parking lot to the Nelson's van loading our luggage and bikes in sauna bath conditions. We were soaked. After dropping Patrick off at his house in Washington, we drove to Columbia and stopped at our neighborhood pub the Last Chance for a draft pint of Marzen and a red snapper fish dinner. We walked into our hot stuffy house about 8:30. It was quite a trip, very interesting and satisfying.