Jan 6 - 26, 2001
On January 6, 2001, I flew from Baltimore to Mendoza, Argentina to join an open
international expedition to climb Mt Aconcagua 22,841' (7,000 meters) the highest mountain in
the world outside of Asia. Our expedition consisted of 16 climbers from Argentina, Australia,
Brazil, Canada, England, Germany, Netherlands, Norway and the USA. We drove to Puente del Inca
at 8900' and spent the night.
We began hiking up to Confluencia 10,892' for two nights then up to base camp near Plaza de
Mulas at 14,009'. We spent 4 nights here while hiking on a glacier and up to high camp 1 and
back. It was cold here freezing every night and remained so for the remainder of the climb.
Breathing was difficult especially at night (58.7% of sea level oxygen) with blood oxygen levels
dipping to about 81%. Climbing is difficult because of the steep slope, 3-4" of loose gravel and
sand and the reduced oxygen level. We hiked to high camp 1 at Cambio Pendientes 16,995' for one
night and then on to Camp Cholera 19,000' for 3 nights. We arrived in a snow storm and high
winds making it difficult to put up our 3 man tents. The high winds continued all night and
through the next day. We spent 6-8 hours melting snow for water and cooking.
The next day was perfect weather to summit with moderate winds accompanied by strong gusts
and the temperature in the teens. We started up at 5:30 am and were treated to a beautiful
sunrise and great vistas of the glaciated lesser mountains surrounding Aconcagua. Although
climbing strongly, I was ordered back down by expedition leader Gabriel Cabrera due to a
recurring health problem. Eight members of the team summited (40.7% of sea level oxygen), the
first arriving about 2:00 pm. Climbing the Canaleta a 33 degree slope rising 400 meters (1,312')
took about 4 hours. My two tent mates were the last back at about 9:45 pm.
The two day march back down to Puente del Inca was very difficult as I almost became
incapacitated, the cumulative result of my health problem. Mendoza city is a very pleasant place
to recover in the warm sun with tree lined streets and fountains galore, great food (especially
the meat), excellent wine and smiling friendly people.
The expedition was very difficult with many hardships (dust, cold, bad footing, steep grades,
bad food and water, low oxygen) and dangers. I am disappointed in not making it to the summit
which I fully expected to do.
I would like to thank Gabriel Cabrera for assembling such an expedition and great guides. His
itinerary was designed to fully acclimatize everyone and ensure maximum success for all
expeditioners. He is truly a professional mountain guide and has earned the respect of all
participants.
The open international expedition included some of the best people I have ever met and I
would gladly go anywhere, anytime with any of them. They are:
1. Monica Odegaard 26 is a Management Consultant from Oslo,
Norway. Fluent in Norwegian,
English and Spanish she had climbed Mt Kilimanjaro. Monica was always in a good mood and even
gave us a nice little dance after a particularly arduous climb to high Camp 1.
2
. Madeleine Grove 30 is a Geriatric Physician (>=80) from Cornwall, England. Fluent in French
and English she had climbed Mt Kilimanjaro, Mt Elbrus
and Mt Blanc. Madeleine is a strong climber but had to retreat from high camp 2 due to illness
after being advised not to go up from base camp.
3. Simon Purchas 31 is a General Practitioner Physician from Cornwall, England. Simon has
climbed Mt Kilimanjaro, Mt Elbrus and Mt Blanc.
Simon returned with Madeleine
when she got sick.
January 6, 2001 Saturday Fly Baltimore to Atlanta to Santiago
Got up and ran 5.1 miles. Finished packing and weighed my day pack 6 pounds, backpack 26
pounds and my bullet bag 29 pounds. I weighed myself fully clothed at 197 pounds very heavy for
me. Lazed around the house until departing for the airport at 2:30 with Anne in her car.
Arrived at Baltimore Washington International (BWI) Airport at 2:55, quickly said good-bye
and completed check-in by 3:05 pm with baggage checked through to Mendoza, Argentina. It is
mostly sunny in the 40 Fs. Boarded Delta Airlines flight number 1096 seat 28C and took off at
4:30 PM for Atlanta, Georgia.
Arrived in Atlanta at 6:35 PM. Transferred to the international terminal and waited. Boarded
Delta Airlines flight number 147 in seat 24A and finally took off at 11:10 PM over an hour late
for Santiago, Chile.
Was served a bloody Mary mix and a mixed snack.
January 7, 2001 Sunday Fly to Santiago to Mendoza, Argentina
Was served chicken lasagna, roll, butter, salad, crackers and cheese, red wine, spice cake
and water. Slept a little but right leg was cramping so I got up for 1.5 hours. Talked to an
older gentleman who told me about his experiences in the Air Force winter camping in -35 degrees
F in Alaska and Iran in the late 1950s. Slept some more and pretty well this time. Was
awakened by the stewardess serving breakfast of egg and ham English muffin, Quaker breakfast bar
, banana and about 2 ounces of orange juice. Had some great views of the Andes as we flew down
along the west coast of South America. I think I picked out Aconcagua as we descended into
Santiago, Chile. Our 9 hour and 25 minute flight arrived at the gate at 10:35 am about 15
minutes after my Lan Chile flight 930 left for Mendoza.
Got rescheduled on Lan Chile flight number 932 after waiting at their desk for about 2 hours.
No problem as I have an 8 hour and 40 minute layover. Exchanged $20 into 10,640 Chilean pesos
at a rate of 560 pesos per dollar plus a $1 service fee. Stopped at PTT Communications and paid
1,000 pesos for 30 minutes of internet time to send Anne a message. It was very slow, half in
Spanish and it wouldn't copy more than one email address per message. Stopped at Gatsby Express
for a ham, cheese and tomato sub (small), large orange juice and a raspberry pie that was
outstanding for 5,750 pesos ($10.81) plus 750 pesos tip ($1.41). Bought a 1.27 ounce Nikolo
milk chocolate bar with nuts for 150 pesos ($.28).
Boarded Lan Chile flight number 932 in seat 16L and took off 15 minutes early at 7:15. It
was very rough climbing up through the thick billowing clouds and again descending through the
cloud cover. We flew over the Andes which were numerous and lots of snow and glaciers. I could
pick out Aconcagua as it stood above the others. We were served a chocolate chip cookie and a
cup of strawberry ice cream. We flew way past Mendoza then turned back to land at the airport
near the city. When the pilot fired the retro jet to slow down I thought the engine was coming
apart as a cowling lifted up and went behind the jet stream from the engine. The pilot came to a
stop, did a U-turn in the middle of the runway and taxied back to the terminal. It was raining
lightly.
I got my luggage and since I missed my flight Aymara was not there to meet me. I took a taxi
to our hotel for $10. The taxi took me to the wrong hotel and after about 10 minutes of
confusion because the staff spoke only Spanish we figured it out. My hotel was a block away and
the staff helped me carry my luggage to my hotel.
I am staying in the Cadena del Sol Hotel room 210 at Geribaldi 82 in Mendoza. I am rooming
with Lyman Dennis whom I met along with Bob Tench, Simon Purchas, Madeleine Grove, Peter
Rodenbeck and Chris Rodenbeck. We walked to La Florencia Restaurant along tree line avenues,
pedestrian walkways and across a beautiful square with fountains and a light display. We feasted
on steak (great), bread, Spanish potatoes, salad, beer, wine and ice cream for $23 each.
January 8, 2001 Monday Transfer to Puente del Inca 8,900'
Got up at 6:30 am and showered. Went downstairs to breakfast of
We loaded our gear on a truck and ourselves into two vans. We drove to Gabriels house and saw
his wife who had joined us for lunch. Picked up Papi, Andreas and Diego three guides on the way
out of town. We soon started
climbing in the mountains along a chocolate brown stream. Stopped near Puente del Inca at a
graveyard for people killed on Aconcagua. One of four climbers killed last January 2000 was
covered in flowers.
We arrived at the Hostel in Puente del Inca 8,900' about 8:30 pm. We are 8 to a room in bunk
beds. Louis Lorenzo from Buenos Aires is already there having been climbing some local mountains
. At 10:00 pm we ate supper of spaghetti, salad, orange juice, water and watermelon.
January 9, 2001 Tuesday Hike to Confluencia 10,800'
Had a slight headache during the night. It didn't keep me from sleeping and I only noticed it
when I woke briefly. I am a little worried since I have never had any altitude effects before.
Got up at 7:30 and repacked everything. I left a bag with street clothes at the Puente del Inca
Hostel. Packed another bag of climbing clothes and equipment to be packed by mules to Plaza de
Mulas where we will arrive on Thursday. Packed my backpack with gear I will need for the next
few days including an air mattress and sleeping bag. 9:00 breakfast of orange juice and two
biscuits with butter and jelly. I am trying to drink lots of water and finished a ½ litre
plus a full litre on the hike up. Walked outside and took a picture of the hostel, the Puente
del Inca natural bridge and baths.
Drove out about 11:30 to the trailhead about 2-3 miles distance. Pulseometer read 93% blood
oxygen and a pulse of 71. It is very windy and a little chilly at the 9,000' park entrance. It
is sunny. We started hiking about 12:30 up to a pretty little lake with snow covered Aconcagua
in the background. We took a group picture with lead guide Papi, Andreas, Diego and the other
Gabriel (G2) as sweep. The trail is fairly gradual like a dirt road as we crossed a cable bridge
and stopped for lunch after about ½ hour. Huge lunch of 2 ham and cheese sandwiches, large
bag of flavored crackers, 2 apples, 2 chocolate bars and a ½ litre of banana yogurt drink.
We're out of the wind in the sun and it is 70 degrees F. The road ended at the bridge and it
got significantly steeper as we continue to follow the dark chocolate brown stream up the valley
. It is very dusty and there are many empty mules returning down the trail. The dust permeates
everything and covers everything. It activates the sinuses causing an ugly dirty flow often
mixed with blood. As we ascended up the valley it started clouding over and cooling down.
We got into Confluencia about 3:00. Monica asked me to be her tent mate so we set up our tent
in the wind with much difficulty. Couldn't put stakes in the ground so we used big rocks for
tie downs. Went to the dining tent for tea and cake. Fernando gave me some Yerbal Mate the
national drink of Argentina. It is very bitter and when sugar is added it is sweet with a bitter
aftertaste. Not very pleasant. The toilets are plastic four walled curtains around a hole with
boards across the hole to stand on. 6:00 pm supper of tangerine juice, pea soup, chicken, rice
with peas and fruit cocktail. There are snow flurries but it is 55 degrees in the tent. The wind
dies down then starts up again and can be quite strong. Went to bed at 9:05.
January 10, 2001 Wednesday Hike to Plaza Francia 12,800' and back
Slept in my down sleeping bag for the first time. I woke up at 1:00 am and was sweating
profusely. I got up and went outside to cool off. There was a very bright moon and virtually no
wind. I left my sleeping bag unzipped and vented and slept well until about 6:30. Actually the
wind was very strong most of the night with very strong gusts that would almost collapse the
tent.
Got up at 7:00 and packed my backpack day pack for today's hike. It is 40 degrees and clear.
I took cold weather gear, water, camera and extra film. 8:00 breakfast of tea and a small slice
of bread.
We hiked back the trail we came up yesterday across both streams in the Y and then turned
left up the valley along the stream in the right fork of the Y. We hiked on a moraine next to
the Lower Horcone glacier that is the source of the stream. We could see the ice walls of the
glacier capped with gravel and debris on our left as we ascended. It is very windy at 50 km (30
miles per hour) with very strong gusts. We stopped for a break and then lunch at 12:00 between 2
house sized boulders giving us a wind break. Our lunch consisted of 2 ham and cheese sandwiches
, an orange granola bar, chocolate bar, Tang and Argentine gorp. We stopped at Plaza Francia at
12,800' for quite a while. We took several photos of each other and the south face of
Aconcagua (aa con cog' gua). We had great views of the totally glaciated south face except where
there are sheer cliffs and both the south and north summits. We saw several avalanches which
sends up huge snow clouds. The mountain is awesome but it doesn't look like 10,000' vertical
feet from where we are to the summit. We didn't go all the way to the south face base camp. A
Mexican team of 2 is climbing route #6 on the south face, I thought I spotted them but no one
could verify it even with binoculars. We hiked about 10 km (6.2 miles) up about 600 meters (2000'
) to Plaza Francia. We hiked back down pretty quickly arriving about 4:20 having hiked
about 12.4 miles.
Washed up in the stream next to camp. Everything is covered in dust with huge clouds during
the very strong wind gusts. 7:30 supper of spinach soup, cheese lasagna with beef, juice, bread
and peaches. Talked to Louis for a long time then Justin who wasn't feeling too well. Simon and
Madeleine weren't feeling too well coming back down and at supper. Brushed my teeth and went to
bed at 9:35. It is relatively calm.
January 11, 2001 Thursday Hike to Plaza de Mulas 14,009'
The wind died down with the exception of an occasional gust.The tent was warm with no wind
and I slept ½ to an hour at a time as I had to vent my sleeping bag. Got up at 6:18 and
packed up. The still water in the stream in camp is frozen. 7:00 breakfast of tea, slice of
bread with marmalade and some cookies.
Hiked out at 8:15. Everyone but I sent our sleeping bags by mule. Hiked up a steep incline
out of the river cut to a long plain in a valley. We hiked up this valley with a 2-3% grade for
a couple of hours. Got some good views of Aconcagua's south peak and ridge line on our right.
After a break we climbed steeply for a while to a higher level of the Horcones Valley where we
continued up at about a 5% grade that continued to get steeper as we went. We had some steep
climbs. The cross streams with mini valleys were filled with ice and snow which we had to cross.
The incline was probably over 15% by the time we arrived at Columbia (a house in r
uins) for a break. It is 52
degrees in the shade. I ate something every break which included 2 ham and cheese sandwiches, a
chocolate granola bar, a very sweet cake, gorp, Tang and an orange. We came to the headwall of
the valley and had to cross a glacial stream on a 20' steel beam 6" wide and 6' above the
boiling water through the rocks. We then ascended the very steep headwall, dipped briefly across
a snow field then up again very steeply for 1.1 kilometers to Hotel Refugio.
We arrived at 3:53 after hiking 7 ½ hours covering 14.3 miles and ascending 1,050 meters
(3,445'). The hotel is nice but primitive. Some of the toilets have no seats and are flushed
with a bucket of water. Showers are $10 for 5 minutes and towels are $1 but the water is
steaming hot. There is no heat, lights go off at 10:00 pm and the toilets are in the basement
are the far end of the building from our room in the attic. Dalton Diamond is already at the
hotel and joined us here. 8:00 supper of vegetable soup, lemonade, spaghetti and fruit salad.
Gabriel Cabrera joined us with a group of 12 Argentineans. Gabriels left leg was nearly
amputated 2 years ago in a motorcycle accident and he just summited for the first time since on
December 31, 2000. His daughter Melisa (16) has been with us for the last couple of days. Aymara
takes care of arrangements from the airport in Mendoza to Hotel Refugio. Gabriel takes care of
everything above and including Hotel Refugio. My blood oxygen at supper is 78% and pulse 102.
That is a little worrisome but I'm feeling fine and performing well. Went to bed at 10:20.
January 12, 2001 Friday Rest in Plaza de Mulas 14,009'
Slept fitfully all night but slept better towards morning until 9:20. Got up with a slight
headache but it doesn't bother me and disappears after being up for a little while. Tea and
cookies for breakfast. 1:00 pm lunch of ham, cheese, slaw, rice with tuna, awesome lentil soup
with chicken and beef and a fruit jell with cheese. Gabriel presented each of us with an
expedition vest with a patch with all 9 countries flags on it. Aconcagua is brilliant and you
can see the trail going up to the ridge. The glacier out front is impressive. At 3:30 our bags
arrived on the mules.
Gabriel, G2 and Frederico took 5 from the Argentine group plus Lyman, Bob, Peter Rodenbeck,
Wolf and I on a hike to New Plaza de Mulas and above to the top of the very steep 15,000' cliffs
above the Plaza. We got back at 6:00 pm. We had to cross several ice fields.
8:00 supper of chicken filet, vegetable soup, vanilla custard and lemonade. Nice rest day.
January 13, 2001 Saturday Hike on Glacier
Slept reasonably well. Have a headache but it goes away when I get up. Got up at 8:24 am.
Drank 2 cups of hot chocolate and a cup of tea with 3 small cookies. Put on my mountain boots
and fitted crampons to them.
At 11:00 we hiked up about 1 kilometer gaining about 200 meters (656') then onto the glacier.
The glacier is quite large and everyone seemed to enjoy hiking through the penitentes
(penitents or monks) even though it was slow. We stopped for lunch of cheese, crackers (biscuits
for you blokes), salame and chocolates. We continued down the glacier, crossed a stream and
angled across some ice fields to Plaza de Mulas then back to Hotel Refugio about 6:15. We made a
big loop estimated at 6 miles. I drank a litre of orange drink and a cup of tea. I wasn't
feeling too well today but I think it is due to not enough food and water.
8:00 supper of spaghetti, a big bowl of thick vegetable soup, vanilla pudding and lemonade.
Blood oxygen about 74% and pulse at 80. Simon and Dalton say that is no problem. To bed at 10:30.
Today was a real cool day on the ice but not much happened.
January 14, 2001 Sunday Hike to High Camp 1 17,100' and back
Woke up about 1:00 am and was having problems breathing. I felt fine when I took deep breaths
with my mouth open but felt like I was suffocating as soon as I stopped. I finally fell asleep
about an hour and slept pretty well. Got up at 8:30 for a litre of tea and hot chocolate, a
little cereal and some
At 10:25 our group hiked down across a small ice field then up and down again across another
ice field then up to Plaza de Mulas base camp a distance of about 1 kilometer. We then climbed
steeply up then traversing right below the cliffs then up around and over the cliffs to where we
hiked two days ago. We continued up the scree field in a switch back pattern for about an hour
to Camp Canada located atop a large rock outcrop. We ate lunch of ham paste, cheese, crackers
and chocolate drops. I started feeling dizzy and disoriented on the way up and was totally
wacked when I arrived for lunch. I was like a drunk with impaired coordination and totally
removed from everyone around me. After a little more than an hour we continued up steeply for
another hour. It was getting windier and colder as we went up and we got into clouds with some
snow flurries. We arrived at Cambio de Pendientes at 5200 meters (17,060') and took a break.
Dalton loaned me his poles for the trip back down because I was unstable on my feet. We took a
more direct route down sliding in the loose scare. I realized I had to go to the bathroom when I
got below the cliffs above Plaza de Mulas and when I fell I lost it and messed my pants
(diarrhea). After a stop in a bathroom tent in Plaza de Mulas, Papi and I hiked back to Hotel
Refugio.
I was starting to fell normal again. I got a shower and cleaned up my clothes. Gabriel and
Frederico who spoke English gave me tests of walking heel to toe in a straight line and standing
at attention with my eyes closed. I did fine. I went to supper of vegetable soup, hamburger,
rice, cheese, sweet guava paste and lemonade. I got increasingly drunk during supper so Gabriel
and Frederico checked my pulse 102 and blood oxygen 73%. I took my first 250 mg Diamox pill and
a diarrhea pill with my soup. Walking back to my room helped and I layed down which helped some
more. Most people are taking Diamox and are having no problems. I wish I had more pills so I
could have avoided these problems. The doctor gave me only 8 pills or 4 days supply. Went to bed
at 10:28 pm.
January 15, 2001 Monday Rest at Hotel Refugio 14,009'
Slept soundly until 1:00 am. Had to go to the bathroom because of the diarrhea. Slept soundly
the rest of the night to 8:30. Had a slight headache which went away after about ½ hour.
Ate a cup of muslix and drank 2 cups of tea. Took a 250 mg Diamox and an Imodium. Frederico came
by and measured my pulse at 73 and blood oxygen at 84% both very good and improving.
1:00 lunch of beef vegetable soup, steak, tomatoes, bread, fruit cup and lemonade. Took my
pulse at 82 and blood oxygen at 81%. Hung around talking to various people. Saw the camp doctors
around 5:00 and they gave some pills for diarrhea and a salt solution to mix with a litre of
water that I had to drink before going to bed. It went down pretty easily. They said no more
Diamox.
8:00 supper of salami, cheese, rice with tomatoes, lentil vegetable beef chicken and bacon
soup, vanilla custard and lemonade. Had a meeting at 10:00 and found out that Justin and Peter
Scott are my tent mates in the high camps. Nik, Wolf and Bob are in the other tent with Papi and
Frederico our guides. My pulse is 80 and blood oxygen 88% at supper.
January 16, 2001 Tuesday Hike to Camp 1 17,100'
Didn't sleep well and again had a hard time breathing. I didn't take Diamox because the
doctor said no. Got up at 8:30 and packed my backpack with cold weather gear and equipment.
Packed the duffel bag with leather boots and other things I won't need high on the mountain. My backpack is 15 kg. Some people hired porters to carry some things to high camp 1 at $120 for 20 kg.
Madeleine had been told not to go above
base camp, but 16 of us hiked
across the little valleys and snowfields to Plaza de Mulas with the Argentine group of 12. We
stopped for 10 minutes then climbed steeply up over the now familiar cliffs then up the 15-20
degree scare field for 2 hours to the Conway rocks where we took a 25 minute break with some
chocolate granola bars at 1:00 pm. We continued up an even steeper incline to Camp Canada for
3:00 pm lunch of cheese, crackers, salmon, chocolate and I drank my last electrolyte salt drink
I got from the doctor. Fernando gave me a hot cup of tea. We continued up steeply to Cambio de
Pendientes or Camp Alaska at 5:15. I followed Dalton all day as a pacer.
Set up our Northface 3 man expedition tents with Papi's help. Our site is small and not flat
despite leveling efforts so we are really jammed. I went and got some snow in our tent bag and
melted it for hours in a pan on a gaz stove. I filled everyone's bottles and cooked 5 packets of
noodles for supper. Beautiful sunset but temperature dropping quickly to probably -10C. Went to
bed at 9:47.
January 17, 2001 Wednesday Hike to Camp 2 19,000'
I slept very well despite the cramped conditions.
We packed up and moved out about 12:45 pm. We headed up but the grade though steep wasn't as
bad as yesterday. We took a break above Nidos de Condores. I'm following Dalton again as he sets
We had much difficulty setting up our tents. All 16 of us made it to camp. We started melting
snow and cooking. I ate clam chowder taking several deep breathes between bites. Justin ate a
few bites and threw up in the tent although he seemed fine a few minutes later. Went to bed
about dark at 9:00 pm.
January 18, 2001 Thursday Trapped in High Camp 2
The winds howled all night. No one c
ame around to wake us up at
3:00 am so I knew we would not summit today. It remained very windy and cold all day. Everything
is coated in ice. Spent most of the morning melting snow for water in the tent vestibule. The
stove doesn't get very hot at this altitude so it takes a long time to melt snow for water. Also
the snow is colder today and takes longer to melt. Our stove ran out of gas so we had to get
our water from the guides.
Hung out in the tent most of the day where it is relatively warm. Made a couple of forays out
of the tent but it is cold and windy and no one is about. Gabriel came by the tent and said
Madeleine and Simon had to go back down early this morning as Madeleine was sick. Things are
very undecided about tomorrow due to the weather. Ate freeze dried spaghetti for supper. It is
difficult breathing and you feel like shit all the time.
January 19, 2001 Friday Hike to Summit 22,841'
Slept well until 3:00 am when we were awakened to prepare to climb to the summit. Boiled
water and drank 2 cups of soup and a cup of tea. Fortunately the guides brought hot water around.
I got my down big coat and overmitts with hand warmers inside. I had the top of my backpack as
a waist pack. The lead guide whom I didn't know said we must take full packs with crampons. It
was a major effort to switch in the cold with overmitts on and dark. I emptied my backpack and
forgot some things.
We started up at 5:30 in the dark. Sometime after 6:00 or just after daylight I messed my
pants without much warning. I got most of it cleaned up and continued on.
I got back to camp at 8:23. I am at peace with not making it to the top. Although I felt
strong and could have gone on I have serious doubts I could have summited. I napped some and had
a cup of tea with Peter Rodenbeck. He said Roger never left camp. He , Bob, Lyman and Monica
are back in camp. The summiters started filtering back to camp about 7:30. Those getting to the
summit were Fernando, Louis, Wolf, Nik, Dalton, Chris, Peter and Justin. Peter and Justin were
last in after dark about 9:40. I made them soup and we crashed. My mattress was not inflated
enough so I didn't sleep well on the cold hard ground.
January 20, 2001 Saturday Hike back to base camp
We got up late and hung around until about 1:00 pm. We descended sharply in a direct route
We finally got into the Hotel Refugio and Gabriels wife had prepared a buffet for us with non
alcoholic beer. Everything tasted so good. 8:00 dinner of vegetable soup, steak and rice,
butterscotch pudding and lemonade. We had champaign afterwards to celebrate. Went to bed at
10:30.
January 21, 2001 Sunday Hike down to Puente del Inca 8,900'
Got up around 9:00 am. Not much for breakfast. Packed my backpack and bullet bag for the
mules to carry down. Picked up a lunch and water bottle.
We finally got started at 12:45 pm. I packed my hiking poles for the mules so Dalton loaned
me a pole as I was a little unstable. Lyman rode down on a mule. We descended sharply down the
steep slope of the valley headwall and crossed a wild stream on a narrow steel beam. My
stability was awful so I sat down and scooted across. I'm not doing well but am able to move
along and keep up near the rear. We descended gradually down the wide alluvial Horcone Valley
with some great views of various mountains, one being in Chile. Also started seeing some green
which was not there when we came up the valley last week. Stopped for lunch of 2 balogna, cheese
and soft cheese sandwiches which were very good, chocolates plentiful juice. Continued down
then descended steeply into Confluencia where I switched to water and we stayed 30-40 minutes.
I was feeling much better after lunch. It took 2 more hours to hike to the road where we were
picked up and taken to the Hostel in Puente del Inca about 7:45 pm.
I'm in hot and stuffy room 105 in an upper bunk with Chris and Peter Rodenbeck, Monica,
Dalton and the lady guide with the Argentine group. Since we were low on the shower priority
list, several of us went to the bar for $2 Budweisers until 9:30 supper. Ate supper of cheese
steak, fries, salad and a fruit cup. Got my mule delivery out of the shed in back and went to
bed at 11:30.
January 22, 2001 Monday Bus to Mendoza
Got up about 9:00 and showered, shaved and showered and shaved trying to get clean. Ate
breakfast of 2 rolls, butter, jelly and tea. Packed everything into my two water bags plus a
plastic bag of rental mountain boots and big down jacket.
Walked around until 1:00 when we finally headed towards Mendoza on one bus with most luggage
on the roof. After a group of young protesters passed, we descended sharply down a narrow V
canyon along a raging river through numerous tunnels. Saw some rafters getting ready to put in
the river. Passed a ski resort. Stopped in a small town for lunch of empanadas which are small
pastry shells filled with sausage and eggs or spinach and cheese or ham and cheese. The supply
was endless. We had beer, wine, Coke and water to drink. Very good stuff. We got underway again
and continued in the mountains almost all the way to Mendoza. Most of us napped off and on.
We unloaded our luggage at the Cadena del Sol H
otel and then Nik, Wolf,
Monica, Dalton, Bob, Lyman, Louis, Fernando, Justin and I went on a bodega (winery) tour $13 to
LaGarda and then Vina Amalia. We tasted some good wines. There are 1400 wineries in Mendoza
Province with 700 in the Mendoza City area.
We got back to the hotel at 9:00 and I checked into the 3 bed room 410 with Lyman. Put my
bags in the room and ran out to an ATM to withdraw $200. Our whole group, guides with wifes and
girlfriends and the remaining members of the Argentine group walked to La Florencia for supper.
We had pickled eggplant and peppers, bread and salad. I got a huge cheese steak, vegetables and
Spanish potatoes. Most people got about 10 servings of meat and French fries. We had beer, wine
and water to drink topped off with vanilla ice cream for desert all for $25 each. Unbelievable!
Gabriel gave each of us a nice certificate for Aconcagua. Got back to my room about 2:30 am. My
hands and both feet are swollen and tight as a drum so that I can hardly bend them. I'm passing
a lot of mucus which is generously loaded with blood. Many of us still have a nagging cough.
January 23, 2001 Tuesday Enjoying Mendoza
Fernando came by the room at 7:00 am to get his certificate and say good-bye as he left for
the airport. Got up about 10:00 for a shave, shower, haircut and general cleanup.
Got back to the hotel for our 4:00 pm winery tour $13 with Wolf, Louis, Simon, Madeleine,
Dalton, Gabriel and wife Laticia. We toured Bodegas Lopez which is a huge factory with
everything automated. The wine is good. We then toured Vina el Cerno a small family run bodega
since 1840 where Mr Martinez gave us a personal tour and instruction on tasting wine that was
outstanding. It was quaint and very good wine. We tasted some Malbec which I bought a bottle for
$15 and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Got back at 7:30. Most people were going to Papi's the guide for dinner and would be out all
night. Dalton, Bob and I walked to the Paseo for dinner on the sidewalk. I ate a ¼ fried
chicken, salad, fries, bread, potato chips, peanuts, fruit cup and an Andes beer for $14. Got to
bed around 11:00.
January 24, 2001 Wednesday Mendoza, Argentina
Got up at 8:45 and went to breakfast of 2 rolls, butter, jelly, orange juice, fruit cup and
tea with Dalton and Bob. Returned to my room to shower and cleanup. Walked next door to the
hotel to use the internet but it wouldn't access Hotmail. Walked down the street about a block
to a Laundromat to have some clothes washed. Walked up town past the Aymara office and found an
internet shop. The attendant spoke some English and was very helpful so I got a message off to
everyone.
Met Dalton and Bob at 12:30 and looked at Dalton's pictures. Walked up to the promenade for
lunch of ham, cheese, hamburger and tomato sandwich and an Andes beer . Dalton paid. Quilmes
beer is the largest selling in Argentina and sponsors the championship soccer team. We walked to
the big park nad hung out a while drinking water and eating ice cream. Returned at 5:50 to pick
up my laundry $8.
Met Frederico at 6:30 and we walked to the Princess Hotel and picked up Wolf with his luggage,
Monica, Simon and Madeleine and walked to the Wine Cafe on the prom where we met Justin and
Peter. Bob, Dalton and Frederico went to the movies while the rest stayed for 2 bottles of wine,
hors d'ouevres and empanadas for $12. Walked across the prom for banana and vanilla gelado cup
for $4. Everyone said good-bye and Wolf and I walked to my hotel. Wolf is on his way to the bus
station 11 blocks away with his bags. He is headed for the beaches of Chile for a few days. I
said good-bye to Wolf and turned in about 11:00. My feet and ankles are swollen very badly to
the point my ankles hardly bend.
January 25, 2001 Thursday Fly Mendoza to Santiago to Miami
Got up at 8:45 and went to breakfast of a roll with butter and jelly, a sweet crescent roll,
fruit salad, tea and orange juice with Dalton and Bob. Showered and packed up. Checked out at
11:00 for $70 for two nights. Left water bags in lobby.
Walked to the internet shop and sent another email to everyone. Walked to the Promenade for a
sidewalk lunch of beef, cheese, egg and tomato sandwich and a beer. I paid the tab of 30 pesos
($30) for all 3 of us (Dalton and Bob) including tip. Walked to Aymara offices to confirm ride
to the airport and flights. Lan Chile offices were closed until 5:00 pm but I was assured there
were no problems. Talked a long time with the woman in Aymara offices about climbing Aconcagua
and other things. Walked back to hotel room 506 and talked to Dalton as he packed.
Walked up to Independencia Square by the fountains and sat on a bench in the shade for an
hour or more. Walking back, I met Tim Schowalter and guide Bruce Andrews from Colorado. Walked
back to Mr Dog and ate a double hamburger, fries and a Coke for 4.60 pesos ($4.60).
The driver picked me up at the hotel at 6:00 and drove about 15 minutes to the airport.
Checked in with Lan Chile flight 933 to Santiago, Chile and paid $15 exit fee. I temporarily
lost my Argentine visa but it was no problem as they made me another.
Took off 15 minutes early and flew over the snow covered mountains to Santiago. It was a
little rough with some bouncing around. Talked to Tim and another young fellow from Colorado in
the terminal about ski touring. I finally boarded a Boeing 767-300 Lan Chile flight 502 seat
22H at 11:00 pm for the 8 hour 30 minute flight to Miami. We took off on time at 11:30 pm. Was
served supper of ravioli, pea salad, bread, butter, chocolate cake, bonbon and red wine.
January 26, 2001 Friday Fly to Miami to Baltimore
Slept for 4 or 5 hours straight. Woke to breakfast of fruit salad, yogurt cup, biscuit with
butter and jelly, orange juice and water. Landed about 6:00 am after an 8 hour and 5 minute
flight.
Picked up luggage and checked through immigration and customs. Rechecked luggage and checked
in with US Air Metrojet flight 2646 seat 8C for the 2 hour 40 minute flight aboard a Boeing 737
to Baltimore. Lounged around the terminal until boarding at 11:00 am.
We left the terminal on time but were delayed about 20 minutes as there was a 20 plane backup
caused by a change in direction for landing and takeoffs due to a shift in wind direction. We
landed about 2:25 in Baltimore.
Anne was waiting and we got my luggage immediately and walked to her car. We arrived home
shortly after 3:00 pm.
ROSTER
Aconcagua Packing List
Trip Costs
Trip Statistics
However, the trip was a smashing success because of the experience
and the best people in the world including the guides who were with me. I am really pleased and
not upset at all.
4. Bob Tench 50 is a Computer Programmer from Loughborough, England. Bob had climbed Mt
Kilimanjaro and Peak Lenin. Bobmade it to Independencia.
5. Fernando Vilardebo' 42 is an Accountant from Buenos Aires,
Argentina. Fernando "El
Presidente" climbs every year particularly the mountains around La Paz, Bolivia. Fernando was
always in a good mood and kept the pot boiling. He summited.
6. Louis Lorenzo 31 is an
Accoun>tant from Buenos Aires,
Argentina. Louis is also a climber. Serious but very nice, Louis spoke English. Louis summited.
7. Justin Gilbreath 26 is an Internet Engineer
originally from Oklahoma but living in
Amsterdam,Netherlands for 2 years. Justin climbed Mt Kilimanjaro. Low key and pleasant, Justin
summited.
<= 8. Peter Scott 29 is an Engineer from out west in Perth, Australia. Tall, thin, blond and
friendly, Peter has climbed Mt Kilimanjaro and summited Aconcagua.
9. Chris Rodenbeck 34 is an Accountant, married and from Chicago, Illinois. Fluent in
Portuguese, Spanish and English, Chris has been to mountain school. This being
his 2nd attempt, quiet red bearded Chris summited Aconcagua.
10. Peter Rodenbeck 61 is the owner of a chain of Outback Steak houses in and around Rio de
Janeiro, Brazil. Peter speaks Portuguese, Spanish and English. Quiet and f
riendly Peter went to Mountain
School and got above Camp Cholera on his 2nd attempt.
11. Wolf Hubel 29 is an Engineer from near Stuttgart, Germany. Wolf speaks German, English
and Spanish and has climbed Mt Kilimanjaro and Mt Blanc. Plans someday to climb Cho Oyu 8,000+
meters and ski down. Tall, strong and friendly, Wolf paced
himself well to summit Aconcagua.
12. Nik Goettel 29 is an Engineer from Worms, Germany. Nik has climbed Mt Kilimanjaro and Mt
Blanc. Also plans to climb some 7,000 and 8,000 meter mountains and ski down. Powerfully built
and friendly,
Nik also paced
himself well to summit Aconcagua.
13. Roger Ferland about 30 is a Network Engineer for Nortel comes from Quebec City in Canada.
Short and powerfully built, Roger made it to high camp 2 a
t about 19,000'. Roger was
always friendly, helpful and fun to be with.
14. Dalton Diamond 56 is a retired Army Physician and small town doctor from near Huntsville,
Alabama. Dalton is always lively, funny, friendly and the perfect drunk. He has been everywhere
including Mountain School. Dalton summited Aconcagua on this his 3rd attempt.
15. Lyman Dennis 60 is a Health Care Consultant from San Diego, California. Lyman is tall,
thin, generous and plodding. Lyman is a good person to
have along since he seems to have 2 or 3
of everything you forgot and is very willing to loan you what you need. Lyman made it a
bove high camp 2.
16. Dan McQueen nearing 62 is a retired Computer and Networking Manager from Columbia,
Maryland. Has climbed Mt Kilimanjaro. A recurring health problem turned him back above 20,000'
over high camp 2.
orange juice, cheese and ham sandwich, rolls and fruit. 8:00 meeting on the terrace but several
people were not there. Gabriel Cabrera and another Gabriel a guide inspected out packs and
equipment. We paid Gabriel Cabrera our balance due in cash ($1500). Walked to the municipal
offices and got our climbing permits for $160 cash. Walked to the Ortiz store to rent a L big
down jacket (brand new) $80 and mountain boots (double plastic) $70 cash plus a security deposit
of $550 on my Mastercard. Walked to the Mambru Restaurant at 2:15 for a group buffet lunch. The
food is excellent with an extensive selection of meats, main dishes, salads and deserts.
Also set up my long gaiters and hiking poles.
great beef jerky that Dalton had.
a good pace for me. We climbed very steeply after the break all the way to Camp Cholera at over
19,000'. We took another break and it started snowing. It increased in intensity and we had a
about 1" of snow on the ground with a howling wind as we arrived in camp.
There were some great
views of the sun coming up and the shadow of Aconcagua in the air. We got to another stop with
everyone there and I started reconfiguring my gear. Stowed my head lamp. Tried to fix my
collapsed pole. I had shorts, thermal long john bottoms, heavy fleece pants and a GoreTex shell
way too much on my legs which is sapping my strength. The balaclava makes it hard to breath and
the big down jacket flap over the face also makes it difficult to breath. I started up again and
my sunglasses were fogged. I went about 100 yards when I totally lost it without warning and
messed my pants again. Gabriel was standing there at about 6100 meters and when he understood
the problem he sent me down with a guide and a woman from the Argentine group.
almost all the way. I stopped for more diarrhea. Near the cliffs over Plaza de Mulas my legs
finally gave out and I started falling a lot. Papi had to carry my pack. I made it down the
cliffs with much difficulty as I was not very stable. We stopped in Plaza de Mulas to rest and
when we started to leave, Lyman passed out cutting his head on a rock requiring stitches.
Went downstairs at 11:00 am too late for breakfast. Lyman headed for the airport shortly
after noon. Got my rental gear and walked to Orviz with Dalton and Bob. Turned in my rental gear
and they gave me a nice Aconagua poster. Walked back to Onan Sidewalk Cafe for a buffet lunch
with an Andes beer for $7.
Dalton Diamond near Huntsville, Alabama ded330sm@aol.com
Justin Gilbreath Amsterdam, Netherlands justing@chello.com
Madeleine Grove Cornwall, England madeleinegrove@hotmail.com Louis Lorenzo Buenos Aires, Argentina lelorenzo@movi.com.ar Monica Odegaard Oslo, Norway odegaard73@hotmail.com Chris Rodenbeck Chicago, Illinois jcrbeck@aol.com Peter Scott Perth, Australia pjspuma@yahoo.com Fernando Vilardebo' Buenos Aires, Argentina fvilarde@fibertel.com.ar
Wear Safety Pants Compass & whistle Polo Shirt Thermometer Shorts Swiss knife Socks Headlight Fleece jacket AA batteries - spare Running shoes GPS Daypack 6 Handwarmers Travel Personal Plane tickets Camera & battery Passport & copy Film Money $2000 Log & pen Credit cards -V & MC Sewing kit Money card Safety pins Health Insurance card Binoculars 2 Passport pictures Address list Watch instructions Camera instructions Eating & Drinking Trip info Water bottle Aconcagua book Thermal cover Metal thermos Hygiene Plastic cup Towel & wash cloth Spoon Soap 3 Freeze dried meals Toothbrush & paste 2 Gas lighters Battery razor Comb Shampoo Deodorant Toilet paper Laundry soap Line & pins Health & First Aid Pepto-Bismal tablets Diahrrea killer pill Ibuprofin Sunscreen Bandaids Moleskins Lip balm Super glue
$1,750.00 $1,218.30 $10.00 $40.00 $160.00 $150.00 $8.55 $20.22 $184.00 $200.00 $70.00 $3,811.07
13 days 13,941 feet 85.6 miles 6 nights 12 nights 6 nights 16 people 8 people 
.........Trail from Canaletta to Summit
Top of Canaletta
South Summit from North Summit
Summiters